Coating options for new basement

[JonB]

Apologies in advance if this situation has been covered previously, but I didn't find it from my searching.

I've got a 4 month old basement floor from an addition that I'd like to coat. My desires from the coating are (in rough order):
longevity, easy to clean, grip (just don't want it to be too slippery when wet,) durability and of course cost/ease of installation (I plan on doing it myself,) are a concern. Looks are secondary.

My usage will be as a hobby machine shop and workshop.

The floor has perimeter drainage below the foam insulation/vapor barrier and the sump stays pretty dry (never any standing water in it, it doesn't have a pump.) The old basement needs a dehumidifier, but no real water issues.

The floor has gotten a bit dirty from all the contractors going in and out of the bulkhead, but no oily stains or anything. I'd rather not grind if I can get away with it, but I'm willing to be talked into it if it's really necessary for a long-lasting surface.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[foodie]

How big is it? I had mine tiled, and I love it! I use it for storage and working out and some projects. But as you might have seen alot of GJ memebers who have working garages tile their garage floor for not only ease of cleaning, but also durability. Also because of the kind of tile I used it is not slippery when it is wet after mopping it.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Apologies in advance if this situation has been covered previously, but I didn't find it from my searching.

I've got a 4 month old basement floor from an addition that I'd like to coat. My desires from the coating are (in rough order):
longevity, easy to clean, grip (just don't want it to be too slippery when wet,) durability and of course cost/ease of installation (I plan on doing it myself,) are a concern. Looks are secondary.

My usage will be as a hobby machine shop and workshop.

The floor has perimeter drainage below the foam insulation/vapor barrier and the sump stays pretty dry (never any standing water in it, it doesn't have a pump.) The old basement needs a dehumidifier, but no real water issues.

The floor has gotten a bit dirty from all the contractors going in and out of the bulkhead, but no oily stains or anything. I'd rather not grind if I can get away with it, but I'm willing to be talked into it if it's really necessary for a long-lasting surface.

Thanks for any advice.

JonB we have some options for you.
In a basement setting low voc is a must.

Good luck.

 

[JonB]

It's a little over 900sf.
Tile seems like it would be quite a bit more labor to install and I'd rather avoid that if possible.

Legacy, which of your products would you recommend? Epoxy based?

 

[foodie]

For sure what Legacy can recommend is a great option, if the tile is too much. Low VOC is important, you don't those fumes throughout your house.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

It's a little over 900sf.
Tile seems like it would be quite a bit more labor to install and I'd rather avoid that if possible.

Legacy, which of your products would you recommend? Epoxy based?

SEC Sealer: https://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-sealers/sec-sealer.html

Two coats is great, satin gloss.

Thanks.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi, we have a new super low VOC epoxy which is great for basements (and many other applictions) and requires no prep other than a good pre cleaning.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/armorultra-i-o-indoor-outdoor-low-voc-water-based-epoxy/

 

[JonB]

SEC Sealer:

Two coats is great, satin gloss.

Thanks.

VOC's look awful high on the SEC sealer. Is it suitable for basements?

Hi, we have a new super low VOC epoxy which is great for basements (and many other applictions) and requires no prep other than a good pre cleaning.

For the Armorpoxy, I know it says no etch or grinding needed, but would it be recommended to etch for best results?

Thanks.

 

[Armorpoxy]

An etch is always good but often indoors people don't like to etch so you can do a water/TPS cleaning and let dry and then use the water based I/O epoxy. Great solution with super low VOC's.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

VOC's look awful high on the SEC sealer. Is it suitable for basements?



For the Armorpoxy, I know it says no etch or grinding needed, but would it be recommended to etch for best results?

Thanks.

230/L
Washes up with soap/water.

Always a balance between low voc junk and something that lasts.



Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[JonB]

An etch is always good but often indoors people don't like to etch so you can do a water/TPS cleaning and let dry and then use the water based I/O epoxy. Great solution with super low VOC's.

Thanks again for the input. I ordered what should be enough for 2 coats of the I/O and armor grip.
I assume you meant TSP for cleaning?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Yes, can use TSP to clean and prep the floor in lieu of acid etch.

 

[JonB]

Yes, can use TSP to clean and prep the floor in lieu of acid etch.

I still haven't had the chance to start in on this. Any suggestion on what kind of roller to use?

 

[Armorpoxy]

We normally recommend 3/8" nap non-shedding rollers. Don't use 'latex' rollers as they are lower quality.

 

[JonB]

Finally getting to this this weekend. Did the prep yesterday. This was after sweeping and vacuuming:

And this was after rinsing and scrubbing then wet-vacing:

 

[JonB]

Then I applied TSP per the instructions on the box liberally with a bucket and a scrub brush, wet vac'd, hosed down, wet vac'd again. Did that by section, as the TSP box said not to leave setting for too long. This is was after drying overnight:

It rained this morning, and the bulkhead isn't completely water tight, so the dehumidifier is blowing in there to try and get it to dry sooner.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Keep us posted!

 

[JonB]

Finally got a chance to get the pix off my phone and post.
I ended up having to wait til the next weekend to have the time to dedicate to actually putting down the epoxy.
I went with the Armorpoxy IO gray. I got 3 batches (7.5 gal.) to cover ~850 sf with 2 coats plus the appropriate amount (4 packs) of armor grip.
I portioned out 2.5 qts initially and brushed on around the walls with beat up 4" brush and rolled out the rest of the batch. I got more ambitious after that and mixed the remainder of that batch (7.5 qts.) Nearly all of that batch was rolled on, but I only got through about 6 qts. of it before I ran into the 1 hr. pot life. The batch didn't feel like it was about to kick, but I didn't want to push my luck and I had plenty of product. I mixed another 2.5 qts. to finish the first coat.



This was after 4.5 hrs or so after finishing the first coat. I'd estimate my coverage around 350sf/gal. (excluding discarded product,) which worried me a bit, as the product page advertised 250-300 sf/gal.

I didn't get the second coat started til about 10 hrs. after finishing the first coat. I was a bit concerned again, because the coating was slightly tacky, though it didn't seem soft at all, even kneeling with Carhart's (heavy jeans) on didn't leave any sort of imprint. I decided for this coat to stick to 2.5 qt. batches to make sure I had enough pot life. The grip powder was intended for 1 pouch per gallon, which didn't really match my batches, so I just approximately measured out the volume of a pouch in disposable measuring cups, did some math and came up with a rough amount for 2.5 qts. (which I don't remember how much that was.) Given that this coating is mixed 4:1, 1 pack per gallon is a bit inconvenient.
Anyway, here's a pic of it partially done!



And freshly done:

 

[JonB]

And here is the second coat after about 10 hours:

Surprisingly more matte looking than the first coat was after a similar amount of time. I didn't walk on it in the same sneakers until a few hours later, and thankfully, not tacky feeling at all. Overall, the look is a whole lot better than where I started, but if you look closely in the photo (or stand in the space,) you can see where each roller stroke was. I did try to roll the stuff out in one direction and then cross roll it, but it's not hard to see each of second roller strokes. Not sure how much of that is down to my lack of skill and how much is due to the product. Either way, it doesn't bother me, this isn't a showroom. It looks great for a workshop floor (certainly better looking than the walls or ceiling!)
As far as how the product handled, mostly like normal interior paint, a bit thicker. Cleanup, also pretty much like paint, but a bit thicker. I didn't do any cleanup between batches for the same coat, waited to clean everything when the coat was done. No problem cleaning the brush and paint trays with water. Roller naps weren't worth saving. Felt like it would take 10 minutes to clean the nap out, and because of the pot life, couldn't just wrap it up, so I tossed the nap after each coat.
Left over product behaved really weirdly. Several hours beyond the pot life, it was quite spongy or rubbery. I guess this is due to it being a water based epoxy, so the epoxy bit has cured, but the water based part is still there, needs to evaporate off a bunch more water than 1"+ layer of mixed product will do in a few hours.

 

[JonB]

And then in the weeks since, this is all I've managed to get done in my new space:



But it's certainly better than the old basement.. (looking the other way through the same doorway)

 

[Keep]

Looks good.

 

[Jayman17]

Your floor looks great and I am jealous of all that space with no posts to get in the way.

Jay

 

[jcacavias]

Sorry to revive and old thread.

@JonB - how is your floor holding up? I have a similar space I’m looking to coat.