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Running a gas line is how much?

Jeremy5431

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Feb 14, 2009
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Eagan, MN
So I was given a like new Reznor UDAP-75 which is the perfect size for my garage. The only thing now is to run a gas line and insulate the attic.

The line needs to be run from one end of the house through the attic and finally to the heater. I would say it’s roughly 60 to 100 feet

I went to my HVAC guy and he said he stopped doing garage heater installs because of the cost. The copper pipe was going to run around $1,000 and another 1,500 for labor.

Just wondering if anyone else has had this issue or if anyone knows a reasonable HVAC in Minnesota that I can get a quote from.

Thanks!


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Los_Control

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West Texas
Why not pex? ... Sure it has a different name but for new lines my water is pex, and gas will be next in this old house ... will be pex.
 
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Jeremy5431

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Eagan, MN
Why copper pipe instead of black iron pipe?


My HVAC guy said that when he did install them he used materials that were up to code. He also said the vent had to be switched out to stainless as well.

I am going to get a couple more quotes to compare.


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rustyjames

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My HVAC guy said that when he did install them he used materials that were up to code. He also said the vent had to be switched out to stainless as well.

I am going to get a couple more quotes to compare.


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As far as I know black iron pipe is code compliant. He's probably pro copper because it's easier.
 
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Jeremy5431

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As far as I know black iron pipe is code compliant. He's probably pro copper because it's easier.


True. I’m also assuming he inflated the price a bit because he hates doing them. As he put it his days of climbing around in an attic are done [emoji3]


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rjacobs

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Jeremy5431

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Eagan, MN
I wont say that this is the EXACT product in my house, but all the gas lines in my house are this black flexible type. They run in the attic so I am guessing its code compliant.


To the OP: would your HVAC guy allow you to run the pipe/hose/etc... and then simply come in and make the connections and pressure test it?


Interesting thanks for the info. I’ll look into it. I’ll check with him to see if that’s a possibility.


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PossumDog

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SC
Memory may be faulty but think $1500 for about 50 foot section. Existing gas line for HVAC, extended to kitchen. In crawlspace. Black iron pipe. Done professionally and inspected.
 

HoosierBuddy

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Sorry I'm late to this one. First to correct the obvious misinformation.

PEX can't be used for natural gas in any way shape or form. And just to get this out there, plastic pipe of any kind is prohibited if used above ground. Water line like PEX or PVC is prohibited period and (as someone who works for a gas company) if it is noted downstream of your gas meter by your gas company they will probably be forced to shut off your gas until you replace it.

Buried black iron was the state of the art way to do this job until about 1980....but we've moved on with materials since then. Not that it won't work....but it will eventually rust, develop leaks, fill with water, and quit working. How long that will take depends on soil conditions. I've seen it last 30 years. I've seen it fail faster. It's still allowed by code. Copper may be allowed. You'd have to verify with your gas company. National fuel code prohibits its use if the sulfides in the gas stream are above a certain threshold. I've seen a lot of issues with it clogging due to internal corrosion even when sulfides are below the NFC spec though...and as it is expensive as well....I wouldn't use it even if allowed by your gas company.

The correct way to run underground gas now is with approved high density polyethylene gas line. You can buy it online and at plumbing supply stores. Joints can be made DIY without special tools if you get the right stab connectors. For each end you will need anodeless service risers. These are assemblies that you will connect horizontally to your underground piping, they sweep a long 90 upward and they terminate as NPT threaded steel. Use a valve at the start of all this so you have a good place to shut it off and isolate it going forward. Bury a 12 or 14 gauge coated wire with it so anyone with a pipe/cable locator can find it for you in the future. The tracer wire should come above ground at the risers and just wrap it a few times around the riser or zip tie it so you can find the end if you need to.

That's essentially the same way natural gas service lines are done to houses these days (at least 95% of the time). The PE pipe is rated at 80 to 100 PSI in gas service...but you will likely only be running it at about 0.25 PSI in your application. 3/4" pipe would work for your distance and load.

Good luck.

Phil

p.s. Here's an example of the type of material I would use if it was me.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HOME-FL...rs-Gas-Line-Detection-18-429440-007/309182788

$184 for 100 feet and everything you need for the underground part. I'd bury it at least 18 inches deep.
 
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Norcal

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CSST is what is often used for interior gas lines these days.

As much as I hate CSST, that would be the easiest in a attic, it is also required to be bonded with a 6 AWG grounding conductor, they had issues with pin holes in CSST that were thought to be caused by lightning.

I am old school in that prefer black iron, copper is not normally used with natural gas but is used for propane.
 
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mcbane

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.... And just to get this out there, plastic pipe of any kind is prohibited if used above ground. .

At least in my area, after dozens of serious leaks and at least one home explosion involving iron pipe, flexible plastic risers are now used to connect tanks to below grade plastic lines. Iron pipe is way too brittle when exposed to a significant snow load.

No plastic anywhere else above ground.
 

HoosierBuddy

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At least in my area, after dozens of serious leaks and at least one home explosion involving iron pipe, flexible plastic risers are now used to connect tanks to below grade plastic lines. Iron pipe is way too brittle when exposed to a significant snow load.

No plastic anywhere else above ground.

When we talk about "black iron" pipe...it actually isn't iron. It's steel. The fittings like elbows and tees however are malleable iron.

Not sure what you are talking about with snow load. Frost heave?

Anyway...there was a lot of cast iron used for gas lines by gas companies up through maybe 1950 or so. That stuff is getting very brittle by now and the feds require every gas company to have a plan in place with a timetable to get it all replaced....but that's true cast iron pipe...not the "black iron" pipe they sell at hardware stores today. Different material.

Phil
 

SethB

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I ran 3/4" black pipe across my basement to get gas to the far side, approx. 75'. hangers, pipe dope and pipe/fittings/valves were a few hundred at the time. Real easy when it's a straight open shot across. Took me a few hours and up and down the ladder a whole bunch.
 

mcbane

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When we talk about "black iron" pipe...it actually isn't iron. It's steel. The fittings like elbows and tees however are malleable iron.

Not sure what you are talking about with snow load. Frost heave?

Anyway...there was a lot of cast iron used for gas lines by gas companies up through maybe 1950 or so. That stuff is getting very brittle by now and the feds require every gas company to have a plan in place with a timetable to get it all replaced....but that's true cast iron pipe...not the "black iron" pipe they sell at hardware stores today. Different material.

Phil


When snow settles it can crush, bend or break lots of things. Cars are regularly crushed but a more severe winter will also break inflexible piping.

In any case these were post year 2000 installs, so not old style cast iron. I believe it is primarily the iron alloy, aka steel, pipe fittings that tend to break under snow loads rather than the pipe itself. Plastic inside a secondary plastic sleeve is way more durable.

The following link is a bulletin urging people to get the snow off the tanks. The longer term fix was to update detailing for the tank risers.

https://www.placer.ca.gov/1259/Residents-urged-to-quickly-clear-propane


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Sevenhills1952

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Smart people headed South!
Twenty inches is painful enough, 20 feet would smother a giraffe. 20210517_153456.jpg

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reader2580

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Minneapolis, MN
I am old school in that prefer black iron, copper is not normally used with natural gas but is used for propane.

Copper is used for natural gas all the time in Minnesota and has been for years. Copper cannot be used for natural gas if it has high concentrations of hydrogen sulfide in it.
 

D45

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NW INDIANA
Do it yourself, very easy job

I ran about 70' of 3/4" pipe from my basement, through the crawl and into the garage for my garage heater project

Total price as under $400

I spent more on quality USA made pipe and fittings and did not buy anything from Lowes, Home Depot, nor Menards.......since all they carry is China or Mexico made pipe/fittings
 

Mike M

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Jan 1, 2019
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Location
Hamilton
D45 says

"I spent more on quality USA made pipe and fittings and did not buy anything from Lowes, Home Depot, nor Menards.......since all they carry is China or Mexico made pipe/fittings"

I thought that as well, went to Parker-Hanefinn store down street, Bought specific need 45 degree Street elbows, etc. Had P logo on each piece, Quality looking parts, except for the "China" logo. So good luck in sourcing made in America.
 

Stuart in MN

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Minneapolis
Copper is used for natural gas all the time in Minnesota and has been for years.
Agreed. Soft copper gas lines are typical here, and has the added advantage that it can easily be bent and curved to run from point A to point B without extra joints or couplings.
 

Jeepster04

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Jun 25, 2013
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My house has literally all copper plumbing. Water supply from the water meter, to the fixtures, sewer, and gas... I even have copper vents sticking out of the roof.
 

LifeLongWNYer

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Oct 23, 2013
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South of Rochester, NY
I know I will get a few deftractors, but I ran natural gas into an 1880's house with black iron and a borrowed pipe vise and threading tools. Ran gas through the cellar and to most appliances with black iron, but used the yellow flexible "tubing" ( appears similar to electrical "liquidtite" to one semi exterior wall unit.

When the utility sent an inspector, prior to turn on, he said work was better than ge vad seen many professionals do. He pressure tested all my work and found zero leakage. I did have to watch a tutorial on the internet to buy the yellow flex tube, and the inspector did ask me if I did, but otherwise, a little common sense will get you through.



JBP
 
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