Low Cost Sealing Options for New Concrete

[draggindakota]

Hi! Longtime GJ lurker here. I'm currently having a 24'x30' metal building built, and I'm at the point of thinking about protecting the floor. I've been reading through the forum and there are so many different systems and processes it's mind boggling. I'm leaning toward the densifier / sealer route, something like Ghostshield 8510 / LT 4500, but I'm open to suggestions.

The concrete is 3000 PSI with fiber and was poured just over 4 weeks ago, with just a hand troweled smooth finish. No curing compounds or machine polishing. The shop is located in south Florida, so no worries about freeze/thaw, and will be used as a general hobby shop: woodworking, welding, auto repair. My main concern is oil / stain resistance and cost. I don't mind a raw concrete look either.

Also, I'm assuming I should wait until the building is up to do whatever finish I end up with?

 

[Shea]

What type of work will you be performing in the building?

 

[misterfixit]

Hi! Longtime GJ lurker here. I'm currently having a 24'x30' metal building built, and I'm at the point of thinking about protecting the floor. I've been reading through the forum and there are so many different systems and processes it's mind boggling. I'm leaning toward the densifier / sealer route, something like Ghostshield 8510 / LT 4500, but I'm open to suggestions.

The concrete is 3000 PSI with fiber and was poured just over 4 weeks ago, with just a hand troweled smooth finish. No curing compounds or machine polishing. The shop is located in south Florida, so no worries about freeze/thaw, and will be used as a general hobby shop: woodworking, welding, auto repair. My main concern is oil / stain resistance and cost. I don't mind a raw concrete look either.

Also, I'm assuming I should wait until the building is up to do whatever finish I end up with?

If just sealing, do it before you do much else as far as building. Construction will find dirt and paint and sheetrock mud and anything else on the floor that will have to be removed prior to sealing. My suggestion is get it done first

 

[draggindakota]

What type of work will you be performing in the building?

General wood working, light auto repair, some welding...just hobby stuff, not a full working shop.

If just sealing, do it before you do much else as far as building. Construction will find dirt and paint and sheetrock mud and anything else on the floor that will have to be removed prior to sealing. My suggestion is get it done first

I won't have any drywall or paint at this point. Just the metal building shell but I might eventually finish the interior down the road.

 

[Armorpoxy]

We always recommend sealing or coating the floor last so that the tradesman don't mess up the floor.

 

[02vito]

Hi! Longtime GJ lurker here. I'm currently having a 24'x30' metal building built, and I'm at the point of thinking about protecting the floor. I've been reading through the forum and there are so many different systems and processes it's mind boggling. I'm leaning toward the densifier / sealer route, something like Ghostshield 8510 / LT 4500, but I'm open to suggestions.

The concrete is 3000 PSI with fiber and was poured just over 4 weeks ago, with just a hand troweled smooth finish. No curing compounds or machine polishing. The shop is located in south Florida, so no worries about freeze/thaw, and will be used as a general hobby shop: woodworking, welding, auto repair. My main concern is oil / stain resistance and cost. I don't mind a raw concrete look either.

Also, I'm assuming I should wait until the building is up to do whatever finish I end up with?

If you are doing auto repair or even parking vehicles, my experience with sealer/densifier suggests that any oil drips will need to be almost immediately wiped up. There are some other fluids that will stain my floor even if immediately wiped up.

 

[paulsomlo]

I've got a ground level front porch that's smooth concrete. I know there's some kind of sealer on it, applied by a previous owner, but that would have been done over 25 years ago. I spilled some purple pvc primer on it recently and it wiped right up, no stain. Wish I knew what had been applied.

 

[Shea]

General wood working, light auto repair, some welding...just hobby stuff, not a full working shop.



I won't have any drywall or paint at this point. Just the metal building shell but I might eventually finish the interior down the road.

You have to first decide if you want a penetrating sealer/s or a coating. Penetrating sealers are typically the least expensive of options and the easiest to apply, though systems like those by GhostShield are a bit pricier. Penetrating sealers are non film forming and create a protective barrier right at the sub surface. They don't change the slip resistance (wet or dry) and they don't change the way the concrete looks.

Penetrating sealers will allow you some time to clean up spills, but the concrete can still stain. The densifier and GhostShield 8510 treatment mentioned earlier has been popular with some of the members here. We did an article about it if you want to learn more.

Is GhostShield the Best Oil Repelling Garage Floor Sealer? | All Garage Floors

We review GhostShield Siloxa-Tec 8505 & 8510. Learn why this is an excellent concrete sealer for resisting oil & oil stains on your garage floor and driveway.

allgaragefloors.com

Coatings are just as they state. They create a film forming barrier on the surface that prevents oils and other liquids from penetrating into the concrete. The concrete won't stain and the oil and other chemicals easily clean up (in most cases). A simple clear coating will slightly darken the concrete surface and create a matte to glossy finish. They can be slippery when wet depending on the type used.

If you want something that is durable, yet easy to apply and not as expensive relative to other coating options, TS210 by Concrete Sealers USA is great alternative. In addition, this is one of the few coatings that does not require etching of the concrete first. CoverShield U140 is very similar.

We Review TS210 Clear Polyurethane Garage Floor Sealer and Coating for Bare Concrete

Why TS210 may be the best no etching required, clear coating and sealer for bare concrete, workshops, and garage floors. We test for durability, oil stain resistance, and ease of application.

allgaragefloors.com

 

[draggindakota]

I really like the sound of the TS210. That seems like a more durable system for what I'm doing.

Here's a boneheaded question...

The TS210 (and 8510 for that matter) requires 2 coats. Is the stated coverage area per coat? Or for 2 coats over that stated area?

IE: 800 SF per gallon of TS210, so I would need 2 gallons for 2 coats over my 740 SF slab?

 

[Shea]

That's correct for smooth troweled concrete. If other questions pop up, don't hesitate to call Concrete Sealers USA. They will gladly help.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Hi! Longtime GJ lurker here. I'm currently having a 24'x30' metal building built, and I'm at the point of thinking about protecting the floor. I've been reading through the forum and there are so many different systems and processes it's mind boggling. I'm leaning toward the densifier / sealer route, something like Ghostshield 8510 / LT 4500, but I'm open to suggestions.

The concrete is 3000 PSI with fiber and was poured just over 4 weeks ago, with just a hand troweled smooth finish. No curing compounds or machine polishing. The shop is located in south Florida, so no worries about freeze/thaw, and will be used as a general hobby shop: woodworking, welding, auto repair. My main concern is oil / stain resistance and cost. I don't mind a raw concrete look either.

Also, I'm assuming I should wait until the building is up to do whatever finish I end up with?

All penetrating sealers have a punch through. 4500 / 8510 is the best I have seen BUT if I wanted to be certain I would do a coat of clear polyurea instead