Looking for help: Upping your auto electrical game wiring game

[Mr.N]

I need to re-wire a trailer and converting to LED lights, moving them and adding some. I also would like to add waterproof connector terminals for the wire to make replacement easy if on the side of the road.

I have ordered a couple things from Amazon and find the quality varies and the review can not be blindly trusted.

Do you have a brand of waterproof connector terminals you like? Have a link or suggestion on buying them in bulk? (I need like 36 of the 3 pins and 36 of the 2 pins)

Solder or quality crimper?

Wire suggestion?

Fuse box to help with wiring and labeling?

What else am I needing to learn?

 

[kbeefy]

For time I usually use uninsulated solid **** splices and adhesive lined heat shrink.

Look at Blue Sea for some nice fuseboxes.

I love Arctic Ultfralex wire from Polar Wire in Alaska. They ship quickly and reasonably, you might check them for some other supplies.

 

[Solarphil]

Www.delcity.net

 

[dlwilson]

I saw this at SEMA a couple years ago and was impressed. It's a two-piece mold, which you fill with a hot glue gun. You place the two wires to be connected in the cavity and inject the glue, and you get a sealed connection. It's a bit expensive, but looks like the connections last forever.

https://spliseal.com/collections/spliseal-kits/products/starter-kit

 

[kd3pc]

properly crimped ancor connectors will do fine, especially the heat shrink ones.

 

[tjansson]

This link has alot of info on motorsports grade wiring products and techniques.

Motorsports ECU Wiring Harness Construction

I like Deutsch DT/ DTM/ DTP connectors. I usually buy little kits off ebay when I need one with male, female, and pins and sockets. I prefer solid pins/sockets, which to use you'll need a DMC AF8 style crimper with TH1A turret. You can use the crimper for some other terminals too.

For other terminals you can get away with a basic electrician's crimper, like a Channel lock 909.

I prefer to get uninsulated **** splices, ring terminals, etc, and use adhesive heatshrink over them. You'll want a supply of heatshrink and a heat gun...

Wire... automotive TXL or GXL is a good choice.

Waytek has a neat catalog to at least flip thru - can be viewed virtually on their website.

 

[theoldwizard1]

For time I usually use uninsulated solid **** splices and adhesive lined heat shrink.

You are speaking my language !

If you decide to replace the wiring, I would suggest that you buy marine grade pre-tinned wire. It will NOT turn into a ball of green puss !

 

[nadogail]

Try your local Marine Supply, if it's good enough for a boat; it is certainly good enough for a Boat Trailer.

 

[ez-duzit]

Use a quality ratcheting crimper, and marine grade wire and terminals. Avoid solder.

 

[Mr.N]

Use a quality ratcheting crimper, and marine grade wire and terminals. Avoid solder.

Ok, why avoid solder?

I live in MN and see water, salt and snow... Really I want to learn.

 

[ez-duzit]

...why avoid solder?....

It is inferior to crimps and creates hard spots that are more easily broken through vibration. So not recommended on autos, boats, trailers, etc.

 

[Worsedog]

Www.delcity.net

https://www.waytekwire.com/ is another great resource.

 

[Showkey]

Trailer specific jacketed wire 4, 6 or 7 wire is the best option for wear/tear and rodent resisdent:

 

[Higgins]

I saw this at SEMA a couple years ago and was impressed. It's a two-piece mold, which you fill with a hot glue gun. You place the two wires to be connected in the cavity and inject the glue, and you get a sealed connection. It's a bit expensive, but looks like the connections last forever.

https://spliseal.com/collections/spliseal-kits/products/starter-kit

Love the idea, as it would work great under car, engine compartments etc. Could get by with their pricing for the basic kit. HOWEVER the cost of additional molds is out of site !!!
I just winder if you could use a plastic welder to accomplish the same thing ??
any thoughts ???

 

[theoldwizard1]

It is inferior to crimps and creates hard spots that are more easily broken through vibration. So not recommended on autos, boats, trailers, etc.

Also, solder can "wick up" under insulation. It is not the "hard spot" itself that causes the problem, it is the transition back to stranded wire. This point is more likely to fail and if it is hidden under insulation, it is very hard to detect.

It is really hard to beat uninsulated crimps with dual wall/marine heat shrink.

There are times when you have to solder because there is just no room for a crimp splice.

 

[ez-duzit]

...any thoughts ???

Stick with what works for the pros and ignore the gadgets.

 

[firebirdparts]

I use an old Sta-kon crimper made by Thomas and Betts and it's very good. I just checked and they cost $50, wow! I also use experience, that's good too. Terminals, I don't worry about. The common stuff you'd buy for a trailer is aluminum but it does okay. I don't want mine to be waterproof. Those are a great invention, and of course it's all over the computer systems on a car, but it's not necessarily on the trailer.

I solder a lot of things these days and use heat shrink. It's probably no better, but somehow it just suits me.