E-Z Outs...who has found gold?

[The Tool Tyrant]

I've tried many different brands and styles and none have proven to be reliable to any real extent. I am very patient and will dose the stuck item with Kroil and let it soak for a few days, if it's safe to apply heat, I always do.
I'm curious if there is a brand or style that you have used and swear by...NOT swear at!

 

[bob15]

Nope. If one doesn't work, I'll try the next, and if that doesn't work try another style or size. Heat helps. Welding a nut onto the fastener will also help (adds heat, plus turning aid).

Oil does helps, to a point: kroil, tri-flow, MMO, ATF, 3n1, whatever is handy....

 

[larry_g]

After penetrant the first thing to touch the broken screw or stud is the LEFT handed drill bit, if it is a flush situation. Welding, heat, and other methods if the shaft is sticking up.

That said I'm not in the rust belt and dealing with rusted broken fasteners is not as common to me as it is to you in the rust belts.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[humber2]

There are few sets one can swear by but many sets one will soon swear at.

The Rigid style of straight flutes allows for either direction giving one the chance to rock out a piece.

 

[BillK]

I pretty much hate e-z outs. I almost always use a Snap On torx bit. I kniow which drill size to use with each Torx size. To be honest with you after 33 years of doing this if a LH drill bit doesnt get it out it is pretty rare that any type of "E-Z out" will either.

 

[Buckgnarly]

My biggest drawer is removers...there is not a single one that does everything. I'm also always getting new ones too, getting some Mac RBRT ones delivered tomorrow actually!

 

[CJM8515]

pipe ****** extractors. i tried them all, snapped mult of those stupid screw type ones, broke the straight flute ones a few times. these suckers work super well, but you gotta drill out the bolt or screw pretty much too

 

[plinker]

Depending on the situation, heat and/or welding a nut is preferable. If its rusted in, most of the time I end up drilling out and tapping it, usually if the drill is centered the threads can be saved. Rusted in stuff and extractors dont mix well IME.

Otherwise these have worked for me at various times,
Left hand drill bit
Snap-on SR40K,
Lisle super outs, These are a bit fussy about drill bit size.
Irwin/Hanson spiral extractors, (better for pipe & non ferrous metals)

I also have these from Lisle, more geared towards rounded torx & hex, I've not really put them to the test yet.
https://www.tooltopia.com/Lisle-LIS61980

Knipex has this set, looks interesting. Matco rebrands it for around 80-something (warranty I assume as well). I may pick one up as it can work in either direction like the Lisle super outs.
https://www.tooltopia.com/Knipex-KNI9R4719003

 

[Honch]

I always had the best luck with the straight flute type. as long as you can drill the correct size hole otherwise they aren't very forgiving. As stated earlier they also let you go both directions to work the fastener free. I don't think any particular brand matters because they will get damaged and should probably be considered sacrificial.

 

[four.cycle]

We sold hundreds and hundreds of "E-Z outs" (most of which were returned by the customers), and I've tried a mess of them over the years, and I've never managed to get a broken stud or bolt out with one. I chalk it up to "user error", drill it out, and re-tap the hole. (Or find another engine case and start all over.)
My preferred method is liberal applications of "K&W Knock-er-Loose" over the course of several days, followed up with a 1/2" drive 24-inch breaker bar and socket or my newly-acquired 120-volt 1/2" drive impact gun.
YMMV

 

[cheoah]

I hired an assistant farm manager some years ago and one of the questions I asked all applicants was their experience in extracting broken fasteners. A single broken bolt can stop a field operation in its tracks, usually me that had to eventually do it. Bought Kroil by the gallon, used heat, or welding on like mentioned above. For a seized bolt, heat always was the most effective, as heating and cooling cycles of bolt and larger mass differed enough to break free.

The torx idea is a good one, never tried that.

The straight fluted ones above (Ridgid?) and Knipex also look good.

I've never regretted buying anything from them. I also had a drawer full of them, mostly the sizes you don't need like 5/8 and up. I did use worn out taps occasionally. I rarely thought of buying nice extractors, seeing them as sacrificial like @Honch said. I'd buy the knipex in a heartbeat now, sacrificial or not.

 

[JradM]

I have Rennsteig (aka Knipex) and Proto extractors - oh, and various other ones I wouldn't dream of using anymore. Protos are my favorite by far. I've beat on them surprisingly hard without snapping and they seem to have excellent bite.

My Rennsteig set is newer, but so far I don't like it as much. I do like that the extractors have hex ends for easy turning, but the metal seems softer. While they come with very sharp edges, those edges dull in use.

I would 100% buy Proto again though.

 

[Kscardsfan]

I can't say as any one type or style is definitively better or worse to use in my eyes. I have a dedicated oh **** drawer in my box for extractors, pullers, ez-outs, left handed bits and other save your *** tools. The Knipex and Proto might be my next purchases based on your guys reviews and pictures.

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

I've had to deal with a lot of sheared off bolts, not that many rusted ones. Rusted ones tend to get hot wrenched. When drilling either for the EZ-Out hole or for the hole for retapping, die grinder and carbide burr make a good dimple to start the drill bit. Carbide drill bits come in handy as well.

 

[redwrench60]

My absolute favorite broken bolt remover says Miller 252 on the side.

First thing I do if at all possible is weld a nut on the broken bolt. Hell I welded a nut and then a piece of round stock on the nut and turned it out with that to save a trip to my box for tools.

 

[Mgdoug3]

I have several ez outs and they hardly ever work. If I can use my welder, that's my first choice. Those Rigid extractors look tempting though.

 

[RichieP_MechE]

I've head great success with the Grabit by Alden on small fasteners (under 1/4"). They also make larger sizes but I haven't used them.

Alden 4507P Grabit® Micro Broken Bolt Extractor 4 Piece Kit | Bolt and Screw Extractors | The Grabit Store

For those small bolt problems in expensive equipment.Everybody knows the frustration of removing stripped screws and bolts. With the Alden Grabit® Micro Broken Bolt Extractor Set, you can finally get rid of that headache even for your precision jobs as Grabit® Micro is the smallest bolt...

www.thegrabitstore.com

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have various types.. easy-outs, Snap-on Spirals, Rennsteigs, those long Ridgids with the straight splines, etc. They work with various degrees of success. My favourite extractors by far are drill bits and carbide burrs.

 

[matt_i]

These are my favorites. Available at Ace Hardware. Use with oxy acet heat, use with paraffin wax (on the hot part). They will strip a small metal chip out before they will grenade like the traditional LH fast-thread EZ out.

Irwin Hanson 3/8 in. S Carbon Steel Straight Screw Extractor Set 7 in. 5 pc - Ace Hardware

www.acehardware.com

 

[Ign]

Yep, heat/welding and LH drill bits

The latter generates some heat while drilling and that helps, too.

But yeah, if the rust is severe it's basically replace the part, drill it larger and use a bigger fastener, or drill it STI (no, that's not a Subaru)

 

[driftpin]

This is what I have, Cornwell, they have worked well for me. I have also done the 'weld-on something,' and left-hand twist drills. I just choose the one I feel most-confident is gonna work, this time. I've also used a cold chisel on button-head allen screws where the allen screw socket rounded-out. PB Blaster and heat are usually prep steps for any effort.



Here's a metric allen screw on a SOHC Honda 750/4 brake caliper, the drill press did this one. I probably could have soon-switched to the Cornwell extractors, but I just kept drilling. By the time I got to this point, it came-out easily with very-little effort.



Speaking of 'stuck things,' when I get a brake caliper which won't release the piston, I fill it with grease through the bleeder, I've yet to lose-out on this method, if an airhose doesn't pop it-out. Bonus pic of some 40+ year-old crud inside the caliper which shows how-nasty the thing can-get.



And finally, if the banjo bolt is in-line with the master cyl piston, like it is on SOHC Hondas, here's a cheap tool I came up-with, to drive-out a stuck master cyl piston. It works like a charm. It was featured awhile ago as a reader tip in 'Cafe' Racer' magazine. Not this issue, but if you're into old crocks, this has lots of interesting material, how-to's, and parts sources.

Café Racer Magazine Issue #70

Read Café Racer Magazine Issue #70 by Café Racer Magazine on Issuu and browse thousands of other publications on our platform. Start here!

issuu.com

 

[Skin]

Most don't work or need the stars to align in order to work. Left hand bits aren't all that reliable either of you're dealing with corrosion. The new MAC RBRT extractors are the best thing to happen in decades. I know you you can get the bit sockets under Proto branding as well, not sure about the extractor set.

 

[IndyGarage]

My successes with that kind of tool are rare. I've tried and failed many times.

Most of the time it ends up getting either drilled out or a nut welded on. Sometimes I have to drill oversized and tap for the next size bolt.

 

[redwrench60]

Here’s today’s broken bolt rescue with the Miller hot glue gun.

 

[driftpin]

Here’s today’s broken bolt rescue with the Miller hot glue gun.

How-soon before someone asks, "what kind-of glue did you use?" Oops, I just-did! Uh, "the metal-kind."

 

[redwrench60]

How-soon before someone asks, "what kind-of glue did you use?" Oops, I just-did! Uh, "the metal-kind."

When they do I’ll answer: the kind that glows really bright and pretty and it’s fast drying but it could be a while before you can touch it!

 

[Diffident]

I've had these from Mayhew in my Amazon cart for a while. Haven't decided whether I should get them, but they look heavy duty.

Amazon.com

 

[Old Man Roger]

This is what I have, Cornwell, they have worked well for me. I have also done the 'weld-on something,' and left-hand twist drills. I just choose the one I feel most-confident is gonna work, this time. I've also used a cold chisel on button-head allen screws where the allen screw socket rounded-out. PB Blaster and heat are usually prep steps for any effort.



Here's a metric allen screw on a SOHC Honda 750/4 brake caliper, the drill press did this one. I probably could have soon-switched to the Cornwell extractors, but I just kept drilling. By the time I got to this point, it came-out easily with very-little effort.



Speaking of 'stuck things,' when I get a brake caliper which won't release the piston, I fill it with grease through the bleeder, I've yet to lose-out on this method, if an airhose doesn't pop it-out. Bonus pic of some 40+ year-old crud inside the caliper which shows how-nasty the thing can-get.



And finally, if the banjo bolt is in-line with the master cyl piston, like it is on SOHC Hondas, here's a cheap tool I came up-with, to drive-out a stuck master cyl piston. It works like a charm. It was featured awhile ago as a reader tip in 'Cafe' Racer' magazine. Not this issue, but if you're into old crocks, this has lots of interesting material, how-to's, and parts sources.

Café Racer Magazine Issue #70

Read Café Racer Magazine Issue #70 by Café Racer Magazine on Issuu and browse thousands of other publications on our platform. Start here!

issuu.com

I flipped through 92 pages and didn’t see the article?

 

[Indexmill]

All of these extractors that have to be pounded into a drilled hole ****. Because they expand the bolt in the hole and just make it tighter.

 

[M6erfan]

All of these extractors that have to be pounded into a drilled hole ****. Because they expand the bolt in the hole and just make it tighter.

I found this out the hard way. I tried one in a carburetor's very seized pilot jet. At first I thought I was making progress, until the carb/pilot passage shattered.

 

[RedneckWelder]

If it’s not a torch, welder, or drill just take it and throw it across the yard you will have better results vs trying to use it.

 

[Skin]

All of these extractors that have to be pounded into a drilled hole ****. Because they expand the bolt in the hole and just make it tighter.

More of a problem with the tapered extractors especially if you dont get a good bite then you smash it in harder and just further expand the threads at the top where the extractor widens. The newer designed ones from MAC dont rely primarily on tension and bite with a torx shape instead which is part of the appeal.

As a rule I really dont like extractors but honestly they're worth buying as an alternative to the welder or drilling.

 

[driftpin]

I flipped through 92 pages and didn’t see the article?

Sorry, I was posting a generic example of Cafe' Racer magazine, not the specific issue in which the write-up was. That issue was the April/May 2019 issue, the cover has a guy in a traditional black leather motorcycle 'competition' jacket. If you work on vintage motorcycles, and you're not a choppers-only guy, you probably saw plenty of interesting things in that issue. I like that it's a reader-centric magazine, they always have pics of bikes guys have done, and there are some very-creative guys out there, who don't make it into the other magazines, those which are left.

This issue has a retrospective of the SOHC Honda 750/4, among other articles, and a skilled-repair section on welding a vintage DOHC Honda CB450 gas tank.

The Honda in the lower left hand side of the two-page spread is one of the customs (a SOHC Honda 750) which was built at the shop I frequent by Ft. Lauderdale. I was peeved that they didn't use in the magazine article a pic of the master cylinder piston removal tool (post #28, above), fitted to the master cylinder. That would have served to show anyone who was interested in how it was built for probably < $10, including a soda from the vending machine.

The pic and copy in the lower right is nothing to-do with me.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Im just trying to figure out how the hell your tool works..lol Can’t read a single word in that last picture you posted.

 

[BigMike782]

The only thing bolt extractors have ever extracted for me is money…..from my pocket to the sellers.

 

[nafterclifen]

The only thing bolt extractors have ever extracted for me is money…..from my pocket to the sellers.

Haha, this made me laugh.

 

[driftpin]

Im just trying to figure out how the hell your tool works..lol Can’t read a single word in that last picture you posted.

The mostly-useless pictures they chose for the Cafe' Racer magazine article, was like showing a picture of a rod cap and stud/nut as the only picture accompanying an article about how-to install a crankshaft kit. Succinctly, 'insufficient pictorial documentation.' You don't really-need the threaded plug on the end of the rod, I just put one-on to provide a larger striking surface.

The PVC fittings were a 'quick & dirty' way to accurately center the punch-rod in the middle of the stuck-in-the-bore master cylinder piston. One is a reducer fitting, the other is a plug, both are slip-fit glued type fittings.

A couple sharp raps with a ball-pein hammer, and that piston should now be resting on the table, or loose-enough to use a pair of narrow pliers to pull-out, with little effort. If you place a socket sized-appropriately below the master cylinder piston bore, the piston should fall right-out, once it's dislodged.

You can find a more-readable copy of that issue of the magazine with a bit of time on the internet.

Here's the text content:



It's pretty stone-age, compared to the guys with the 3,000 sq. ft. shops and the 5-axis HAAS milling workstations, but it does the job for not much-more than pocket-change.

 

[Old Man Roger]

OK, I was just overthinking it lol Now that you’ve explained it, it is pretty straightforward.

 

[FuzzyTiger]

More of a problem with the tapered extractors especially if you dont get a good bite then you smash it in harder and just further expand the threads at the top where the extractor widens. The newer designed ones from MAC dont rely primarily on tension and bite with a torx shape instead which is part of the appeal.

As a rule I really dont like extractors but honestly they're worth buying as an alternative to the welder or drilling.

My MAC extractors have saved me a few times now. There's always that sense of dread when a bolt rounds off or strips but the last couple times it happened to me, it was a 10 minute delay and I was back on track thanks to my extractors.

 

[Bradc1989]

I have an Irwin set that I like pretty good, it’s at work so I a pn right now. It’s probably a 15 piece set, and instead of having a square drive they have a hex to put a regular wrench on. The flutes are not super aggressive, there’s lots of shalllw flutes instead of fewer deeper. Probably had more success with this set than any other so far. They all kind of **** though