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89 silverado frame repair pic heavy

cyamaha2007

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Ok so i am replacing the rear section of frame on my 89 silverado due to rust. The rest of the frame is good so here we go.
 

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cyamaha2007

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then this happened... Luckily it was just a hose. But i had to flat line tow it from my 1 house to the other.
 

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cyamaha2007

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heres some more
 

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cyamaha2007

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a few more
 

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35mastr

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Wow thats alot of rust. I would check your cab mounts also. A decent used frame would have been a better fix IMO.
 

1984GMC

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yup. I would have bought a better truck and parted that one out, Frames are nothing to **** around patching... Here was one guys solution to his toyota frame..
http://s119.photobucket.com/albums/o159/ocdropzone/misc stuff/sign post frame mod/

thtruck11.jpg


LMAO
 
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cyamaha2007

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well thats fine for you but we have had the truck since new. Its been very very good to us and i see no point in ditching it. But everyone has their opinion. I do not plan on driving it on the road mainly around our property and a cheap toy. I learned to drive on this truck and so did my brother and sister. hell alittle rust isnt going to stop me.
 
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cyamaha2007

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thats fine i think its a little rust compared to lots of stuff like my 31 model a or the barn or the utility bed we are working on at work. Frames are streched and shortened every day. Its not much different. Anything is repairable if you have the time and i have the time.....
 

scottybaccus

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thats fine i think its a little rust compared to lots of stuff like my 31 model a or the barn or the utility bed we are working on at work. Frames are streched and shortened every day. Its not much different. Anything is repairable if you have the time and i have the time.....


I think everyone is warning you against damage you can't see. It kinda goes like this, you THINK it's ok, so you patch it up. A year or two from now, you or someone in your family is feeling confident in the ol' girl and decides to put her back to work or run into town. Maybe something unexpected happens and a sudden swirve into the ditch turns into a structural failure, perhaps it fails first and causes the swirve... You getting the idea? Now let's say that I am approaching head on with my daughter in the car. What gives you the right to roll those dice? I appreciate your loyalty to this truck, but if you REALLY gave a **** for her, you'd invest the time and energy into scrounging a rust free frame and do it right.

Offended yet? If so, you really don't get it and I just wasted my time.
 

Hylke

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From the pictures it looks like the rear has some serious rust issues, if that's looking as worse as it does, then what does the rest look like?

On my Jeep the rear crossmember was gone too, but when I took the body off to check the rest of the chassis, I felt both relieved and stumped. Stumped for having even more work to add to the list but mainly relieved to see that I had been driving around with all of the body mounts rusted out which I was now going to fix properly. My chassis was salvageable with a lot of reconstructive work and yes, you should take your time. But keep it real and seriously look if it really is worth saving.

And if you plan on doing it still, check this thread:Chevy chassis Shortening LWB SWB
 

rockchucker

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Looks like somebody dipped that Frame in Muriatic Acid then let it sit for a few years. I would not roll those dice. I would at LEAST Sand Blast all of the rust off and see what I was left with before doing anything.
 
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cyamaha2007

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The tickness of the frame has been tested with a ultrasound device by a local auto body frame repair shop. He said go for it so i went. I didnt know what to to so i asked someone im going to roll the dice on a family freind that told me it would be ok. Im not concerened about the welding aspect but with keeping it all square. I guess i can trust his opinion as friend and as a mentor. The frame was rotted from backing it into the water when launching boats.
 
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cyamaha2007

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the rest of the frame has the undercoating still on it. I appreciate your all opinion but a picture on the computer isnt **** compared to you seeing it in person.
 

Professur

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Now let's say that I am approaching head on with my daughter in the car. What gives you the right to roll those dice? I appreciate your loyalty to this truck, but if you REALLY gave a **** for her, you'd invest the time and energy into scrounging a rust free frame and do it right.

Offended yet? If so, you really don't get it and I just wasted my time.

Whether or not he got it, you wasted your time. If you think that a guy who's putting this much time and energy into his vehicle is a significant threat to you and yours on the road, you really need to take your blinders off. He'll have the brakes and steering gear fully inspected. You're sharing the road daily with jokers who wouldn't know the brakes even need checked until they start squealing at them. And you think his frame folding up is a serious threat? You make me laugh. Your soap box is more likely to collapse under you than his frame.
 

rsanter

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I would like to comment on your method of repair.
I think you are on the right path with the use of the 'boat patch' plate you plan to use to spread the load out.
I think I would prefer the single flat plate on the inside or outside of the frame and then I would add a boxing plate to the inside of the frame.

bob
 
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Hylke

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He was thinking pretty much in the same lines as the guy in the link I provided earlier. I would have both the frame ends notched like the guy in the link does, instead of having a taper at the end. Having it notched, both ends will fit right up and you have a greater length of weld which combined with the fishtail should spread the load evenmore.

I couldn't really tell the state of the rest of the chassis from those photo's. Do you have more photo's of the frame from the back of the cab forward? Just interested.

Good luck anyway and having a mentor to ask certain things is a great asset.
 

Displaced Hokie

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Hey, looks like you are on the right track. My truck got pretty rusty in the rear after living in Wisconsin for a couple years, so I need to pull the bed and get it fixed up. No rust through, but it kills me it got so rusty in such a short time. It's like 30 years of rust if it had stayed down south.
 

slip knot

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Come on Scotty, frame failure from swerving on the road? I've welded frames on dirt track cars and 1/4milers for years and have yet to see a failure at a weld. both of these appilications are a bit more abusive than street usage. Properly welded, a repaired frame will be just as good as an original frame. From the looks of the pictures it appears the repairs are going on far enough from the damaged area that good metal should be available to weld to.
 

scottybaccus

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Whether or not he got it, you wasted your time. If you think that a guy who's putting this much time and energy into his vehicle is a significant threat to you and yours on the road, you really need to take your blinders off. He'll have the brakes and steering gear fully inspected. You're sharing the road daily with jokers who wouldn't know the brakes even need checked until they start squealing at them. And you think his frame folding up is a serious threat? You make me laugh. Your soap box is more likely to collapse under you than his frame.


I use only mil-spec soap boxes subject to routine inspections and periodic maintenence. You?
 

Professur

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I use only mil-spec soap boxes subject to routine inspections and periodic maintenence. You?

I stand in the back of a rusty old pickup truck, thanks.


The standard way to connect frame rails that have been severed for any reason is a Z cut with a fish plate over the top. Anytime strengthening a frame rail is desired, boxing adds more than double the strength and rigidity for minimal cost and effort. Personally, anytime I'm working on a frame, boxing it is a consideration. That said, I've seen some horrific notches cut in truck frames to bag and drop them. Notches I'd have said seriously compromised the integrity ... and they passed DOT inspection without issue.
 

Lawson4450

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i second the z ing of the frame i think it will give it more strength myself and you can still do your plates nothing like a little over engineering to keep it safe.
 

Diesel_Crawler

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To make it sound not so harsh, Its beat man. It had its day and it owes no one nothing. I would seriously get a new frame or one in a little better shape and restore it off the truck and then just move the components over.
 
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48548

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I think it is cool you want to keep the truck in the family. Living in AZ we don't really see rust, but my 51 chevy 2 door hard top had a lot on the body and we fixed and it is good as new. I know it isn't a frame, but I can respect trying to save something work keeping for what every the reason and I think that if things are done right there is no reason not to trust it.
 

z28snksknr

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I see a fair amount of "low post count" people telling this guy to not put effort into restoring / fixing his property, which he stated has some sentimental value to him. Perhaps you are missing the point of this forum and have not seen some other past threads involving restoration or fabrication projects.

There was a guy in recent past that spent a GREAT deal of time fabricating a dust pan. It was one of the greatest uses of spare time I've ever seen in my opinion. I bet you would have just told him to "just go and buy a dustpan"?

To the OP, keep posting your progress. If your vehicle was a rare, classic, or custom fab project no one would have issue. Since it's "just a Chevy Pickup" to them, they don't associate value in your efforts.

I also have never heard of catastrophic frame failure causing a multiple fatality traffic accident. Seriously, most compact cars have less frame material than the back half of this guys truck. To equate his repair with putting your children in danger is absurd and unwarranted.
 
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Professur

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Indeed. They'd be horrified to discover the effort I've put into restoring a '91 sonoma who's entire floor was gone. But it's got special value too. I'm building it for my girl, for when she turns 16. I've got 3 years left. Could I have just replaced the cab? Sure... but where's the fun in that?

You have my word, tho, that when I'm done, it's going to be at least as strong as it ever was. Probably a lot stronger. After all, you don't think I'm going to go to all this effort just to leave it stock, do ya? Steering has already been upgraded, brakes will be before I'm done. The engine bay is still undecided. I want to put a crate 4.3 or 305 in there, she wants me to rebuild the stock 2.8. If I decide to do that, the it'll be a fight over whether to take it to 3.1 or 3.4
 

speed bump

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I always figured that patching Chevy frames was a fact of life, kind of liking reinforcing the middle of early 80s Ford frames.
 

eborcim

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This type of repair is done all the time with G-body (metric Montes etc) frames used in stock cars. They always rotted behind the axle kickup. It was a better repair than the original when we used 2x4 tubing. Never had one break either. Make sure you put up pics of the repair!
 

Kevin54

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The Chevy frames around here end up like that quite often. Check wiith some of the guys on the S10 forum that back half their trucks or build custom frames for some pointers from them. It looks like you have a good plan though. You just want to make sure the welds are a good weld that penetrates the metal. A 110 MIG won't do it. You'll need a 220 welder to get it done.

And to the others that are busting him down for wanting to fix it. It can be done and is done all of the time. Most material that you buy to back half a truck is actually stronger than the actual factory frame. My '93 had some issues and I was surprised as to how thin a frame is compared to cars a couple of generations ago. The time frame to fix what he is doing is way easier than replacing a complete frame under a vehicle. It may sound easy to "just replace the frame and be done with it" but by the time you change the sheetmetal, cab, engine, suspension, wiring, etc. it is not a weekend job.
 
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cyamaha2007

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Yeah i have a lincoln 180amp mig. Its a 220 model. Replacing a frame would be costly since all the parts that i would have to replace. And i dont have room for a project that big
 

adam728

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Fixing/replacing frame sections is not uncommon. I grew up in northern Michigan, stuff rots away pretty quick up there compared to many other parts of the country. A good repair will hold up fine.

There are much more frightening things out there than a truck with a repaired frame. Yesterday I saw a little car covered in "Senior 2010" and other stuff all over the windows, including the ENTIRE windshield. The car was bobbing and weaving through traffic quite aggressively, but of course all that crazy driving got it no where because I ended up next to it at a light just flowing with traffic. High school girl, texting or dialing her cell phone, driving like a maniac, and half the windsheild covered. To me that's scary.
 

35mastr

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I have built and back half many a frame. But would never do one that was that rotted. If its that rotted where you can see it. There is much worse hidden where you cant see it. I hope that this never will see the road where my kids or others will be sharing it with you. And this was when I was in the snow belt. 13 years I spent there. I would buy a good frame from the west coast have it shipped .

Just food for thought you are welding to rotted out metal.
 
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evil16v

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cyamaha2007,

Don't worry,... you are dealing with internet trolls. they are on any website you care to mention. Ignore them. This a good thread and you are getting good advise from the rest. with that said... some advice from me, an owner of a heavily used 160k '94 K1500 shortbed Z71.

As far as being worried about my daughters welfare... I put her in a full size '99 Tahoe(same body style as yours... different dash and electrical)

These are Damn reliable trucks if treated right. I'd fix it too. I wouldn't go to the trouble of pulling the whole thing apart to replace the frame either. That's just a waste of sweat, and will cause more trouble yet.

I agree with the Z cut and fish plate. That is standard custom frame affair. You are just doing for the reason of rust instead of shortening or altering. No difference if you ask me. The rest of the is probably fine. I say this because I have noticed this is an area that holds mud and salt easily. I can see why that particular area would rust (If you have one of these trucks you will see what i mean). I have noticed that problem in my truck,and have washed there often with a power washer. That's why I don't have that trouble.

BUT...READ THIS.... while you have the bed off.... Pull the gas tank down and replace the brake line from the rubber line going from the rear end down the frame rail to under the master cylinder where the frame bends back up to the control arms. The line rusts out because of mud that collects behind the gas tank. You can't get the mud out with a power washer with the tank in place. Mine was full of **** there, and I bet money yours is too if you haven't already crossed that road.

There is a coupler behind the gas tank and at the aforementioned upward bend in the frame. So you need to bend up two pieces of line separately I wish i remembered the lengths of line so I could tell you which ones to get. Buy the coated ones Napa with the ends already flaired on. You will still have to shorten both.

While your there.... squirt some penatrant on your fuel pump hanger fittings on top the tank. You will thank your self later. Even more so.... If you have 30 odd dollars, order a new pump from GM direct and do it now while it's handy.

Not trying to talk you ear off. Just trying to save you some grief:thumbup:
 
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cyamaha2007

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Evil 16v i just started to work on that brake line. Its was really rusty and just moving it around to look at it i sprung a leak. Thanks alot for the tips
 
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