Hein Werner Craigslist Purchase

[gpstraub]

I've got the ram completely taken apart. With the exception on one piece....

The forking cylinder is a BEAST. It's in the main block tight as a MF'r. This is as close to hurling a tool across the garage in years . I've got the main block securely in a 5" Reed vise and I'm using a 24" pipe wrench. The thing will not budge. I successfully fought back the urge to use a cheater bar because I've got to be close to putting a flat in the tube and rendering it useless.

I've been toying with the idea of putting some heat on it and giving it one more try but I think I'm gonna give up. There's a hydraulic equipment shop down the street that does rebuilds so I'm thinking of throwing in the towel and dropping off the unit there for removal.

 

[Hiball]

I've got the ram completely taken apart. With the exception on one piece....

The forking cylinder is a BEAST. It's in the main block tight as a MF'r. This is as close to hurling a tool across the garage in years . I've got the main block securely in a 5" Reed vise and I'm using a 24" pipe wrench. The thing will not budge. I successfully fought back the urge to use a cheater bar because I've got to be close to putting a flat in the tube and rendering it useless.

I've been toying with the idea of putting some heat on it and giving it one more try but I think I'm gonna give up. There's a hydraulic equipment shop down the street that does rebuilds so I'm thinking of throwing in the towel and dropping off the unit there for removal.

There is NO need to remove that cylinder, It is torqued at a ungodly amount of ft pounds. My question is what are you gonna do with it after you get it out? Your playing with fire and your chances are too great that you will put a flat spot in it and ruin it, then your talking big bucks to replace/make. Step Away from the cylinder.....

 

[Elroy]

I successfully fought back the urge to use a cheater bar because I've got to be close to putting a flat in the tube and rendering it useless.

Yep those suckers are in there tight. Elroy had the same concerns about putting a flat in tube but alass it didn't happen

The WS has a rubber seal in the base of the tube and a full build would require tube removal

The heat is just going to cook things

For Elroy it would be support the tube with a dummy "piston" and have at it. But that's our call

 

[Hiball]

The WS has a rubber seal in the base of the tube and a full build would require tube removal

Would like to Add.. Ive NEVER seen one leak at that end of the cylinder and they discontinued that option on Every NEW jack that has been built within 20 years, Domestic and Import.

For Elroy it would be support the tube with a dummy "piston" and have at it. But that's our call

Yep, Its a requirement. If you have to remove a cylinder due to replacement you must insert a correct sized plug to prevent flat spots. I use a Rigid Chain wrench to remove/install new cylinders when duty calls and even with a 5' Cheater its Hell.

 

[Elroy]

The WS has a rubber seal in the base of the tube

they discontinued that option on Every NEW jack that has been built within 20 years, Domestic and Import.

Well there ya go

Step Away from the cylinder.....

On to re-assembly

 

[HemiRambler]

I have a jack that looks identical to your Blackhawk that is in need of rebuilding. Is there a tutorial on taking one of those apart?

 

[gpstraub]

I have a jack that looks identical to your Blackhawk that is in need of rebuilding. Is there a tutorial on taking one of those apart?

I did not do a write up and I don't know of any tutorials. It was a pretty straightforward rebuild. I'd recommend contacting Hiball for a rebuild kit and just start tearing the sucker down. If you run into any trouble, please feel free to contact me. I'd like to help in any way I can.

 

[gpstraub]

There is NO need to remove that cylinder, It is torqued at a ungodly amount of ft pounds. My question is what are you gonna do with it after you get it out? Your playing with fire and your chances are too great that you will put a flat spot in it and ruin it, then your talking big bucks to replace/make. Step Away from the cylinder.....

I totally agree. I'd love nothing other than leaving this sucker alone. My problem is... I can't fit the leather cup into the dront end of the cylinder because of the angle <] the v is slightly wider than the mouth of the cylinder... I'm afraid of chewing up the leather cup. I assumed it was necessary to install the piston from the rear >]

 

[Hiball]

I totally agree. I'd love nothing other than leaving this sucker alone. My problem is... I can't fit the leather cup into the dront end of the cylinder because of the angle <] the v is slightly wider than the mouth of the cylinder... I'm afraid of chewing up the leather cup. I assumed it was necessary to install the piston from the rear >]

You must soak the cup in Hydraulic oil for 24-36 hours, Then you must attempt to crimp the end. I have a crimping die, Which is essentially a 6" Round stock of aluminum and it bevels down similar to a funnel. I known guys to actually use a Metal funnel and after its saturated with oil you can slip it in the cylinder. If you dont have a heavy enough funnel you must try and compress outer edge.. Without damaging it. Once the jack is under load it will spread the edges back out to create a nice sealing edge. If you have any questions please contact me, Its easier to ask than damage a piece. You can find my contact number on my website, I easily make myself available to GJ members.

Steven

 

[gpstraub]

Great info Hiball thanks!

I had already began soaking the leather seals in hydraulic oil on Sat morning. I pulled them out yesterday afternoon and, as stated above, I was having trouble getting the seal to fit into the cylinder. I did not force the issue because I saw the potential for needlessly ruining a good part. I came up with a method of my own to compress the end end the seal... I attached the leather cup to the end of the piston and rolled it like a rolling pin on a large clean piece of plate glass. I did this consistently for a few minutes, it compressed the seal perfectly and allowed it to slide right into the cylinder. Problem solved

 

[Hiball]

Great info Hiball thanks!

I had already began soaking the leather seals in hydraulic oil on Sat morning. I pulled them out yesterday afternoon and, as stated above, I was having trouble getting the seal to fit into the cylinder. I did not force the issue because I saw the potential for needlessly ruining a good part. I came up with a method of my own to compress the end end the seal... I attached the leather cup to the end of the piston and rolled it like a rolling pin on a large clean piece of plate glass. I did this consistently for a few minutes, it compressed the seal perfectly and allowed it to slide right into the cylinder. Problem solved

Where theres a will theres a way, That is Much better than forcing it with a sharp Pick. Good Job

 

[gpstraub]

It's been a while since I've been on the board. Various issues have kept me out of the garage and away from my projects. The jack is still in about the same state as my last post. Assembly and paint is next. I'll be sure to post some pics soon.