FredR will have to fill that one in.SWMBF&O used to be just SWMBO and stood for "She Who Must Be Obeyed" I think somewhere along the line she created another demand, hence the "F". And I'm not even going there in this threadFredR will have to fill that one in.

I thought F&O was FEARED and Obeyed. It is in my house....

I thought F&O was FEARED and Obeyed. It is in my house....
Dave, the boxes that were constructed to just hold dusk/dawn photo cells and all the wiring. I don't know of any motion sensors available as stand alone items like these photo cells are. If they are available they could be installed in place of the photo eyes.
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The boxes were made out of 1/8" steel, the large hole is for the Romex wire from the building to enter the back side of the box........
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........the "eye" was placed on the side of the box when installed on the building........
....
Thomas
I think you will find that a motion detector that has a “screen” as small as a photo cell will not be very sensitive or be very expensive. The only ones I’ve seen are very similar to the ones at link in the post above.
Hello Thomas and Chris,
I stumbled across this thread about a month ago and read through the entire thing. I just registered with Garage Journal to finally comment. You have done a fantastic job with this project! I absolutely love seeing the history of this place and how you have preserved it! I have driven by this property many times in the last 6 years (I live in Savoy and have had internships that had me visiting farms in the area) and haven't payed much attention to it.
I even asked my Grandpa and Uncle if they remembered the shop. My Grandpa clearly remembers the shop, but doesn't think he ever had any work done there. Their family farm was in Collison, so there were other shops closer. My Grandpa does remember talking to other farmers (customers) who used the shop often (he was in cost accounting for the Farm Bureau).
Once again....Fantastic work and thank you so much for putting the work you have done in this thread!
-Nathan

Thomas,
The shed that's slated for destruction - no reason you can't give it a quick coat of white paint.)
"destruction"...I prefer the term "recycled". Tom and Chris,
Been a little while since I checked in on this post, had about 4 pages to catch up on. Try to stay on top of it to be ready for the upcoming quiz. haha Looks great all that you have done, the lights you put on the barn/shed look like the belong there due to the forward thought you put into the implementation of them and fit the lok perfectly.
Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
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Glad you're staying on your toes and keeping up! There is more in the pipeline......SWMBO and stood for "She Who Must Be Obeyed" .
You must be doing it wrong it is SWTSMBO, "She Who ThinksShe Must Be Obeyed"
Must be something funny in the water on your side of the pond.....
If the thread keeps growing however, it may have to expand to a full blown out test!
Hi Thomas,
As a retirement house I would like to find an old building; a bank, fire house or, small factory? The big question is where? It would have to be in a town or city with enough amenities to satisfy a couple city dwellers, and be safe to walk at night.
Steve
Detroit? Except for the safety part. Get a big building and walk around the roof.
First thing I need to do is repair the two holes someone drilled in the saddle many, many, many years ago!!!:sad:
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It could replace the SAT test! In this case it would be Shop - Activities - Test.![]()
That's NOT sad.
That's a "field" modification that was done for a good reason. Performed on a working tool by someone who knew what they wanted and knew how to get it. That little trick was performed so you could tie the load onto the jack.
They're your jacks so do as you feel.
For Elroy that mod would stand just as it is. You already have your primo, original. Make this one your working jack. At some point those tie down holes are going to be just what the "crew chief" ordered.
I know Tom will just love to read it in his spare time! It's not copyrighted in the USA.
Chris

That's NOT sad.
That's a "field" modification that was done for a good reason. Performed on a working tool by someone who knew what they wanted and knew how to get it. That little trick was performed so you could tie the load onto the jack.
They're your jacks so do as you feel.
For Elroy that mod would stand just as it is. You already have your primo, original. Make this one your working jack. At some point those tie down holes are going to be just what the "crew chief" ordered.
) However, I've been doing mechanical work for 40 some odd years and I always try to find alternatives whenever I'm faced with having to permanently alter a tool. I can almost always find a way around doing so. Not always, but usually. This could very well be considered "patina" and if so the modification will stand as is. I'm not home right now (Brazil....again) or I would post some "field modifications" done to the lift that I left "as is". Perhaps when I get home in a few days I can post those. I'm not opposed at all to this sort of thing. These will both be working jacks, as everything in my shop works.
. I mean just look at the pair of them, they are so very wonderful in my eyes
) She by H. Rider Haggard sure doesn't sound like psychology to me, although Freud saw a prototype in the main character, Ayesha. Seems ahead of its time. This is what ebook says:
She
Author: H. Rider Haggard
Published: 1886
Language: English
Wordcount: 111,776 / 298 pg
LoC Category: PR
Series: Ayesha
Downloads: 4,905
mnybks.net#: 3131
Origin: gutenberg.org
Genres: Adventure, Audiobook, Romance
The adventures of an expedition to an unexplored part of East Africa, where the group finds Ayesha, a beautiful and immortal sorceress who claims the expedition's leader is the reincarnation of her long-dead beloved. Ayesha had become ageless and perfectly beautiful more than 2 millennia earlier by immersing herself in a magic flame, and pressures the expedition leader to immerse himself as well.
Chris

)It's not copyrighted anywhere... It's copyright has long expired. But you should be careful Tom might start referring to you as SWMBO.![]()




Ahhh... What happened???
The page numbers have stopped changing....
Have I reached the end of the Internet???
Discovered this thread by accident... I had heard of and found or been sent links to The Garage Journal previously and visited it last Thursday to wander around and check out the place... While reading the front page blog posts I discovered the link to this Thread several pages into the blog... Old Garage restoration?? Cool, sounds a little like the work I've been doing to my little structure....
Wrong, this is so much more.... I must add, I have been reading all the posts from the beginning since last week and must make the following confession...
I'm Not Worthy...
First post here by the way and now that I have reached the end of the Internet I can go eat breakfast...
Then I need to do some work in my garage before rereading this entire thread and posting questions and comments...
Looks like I need to set up a Sig file on here....
And I read something about a tool forum.... Ahhh....
So many ways to spend my time....
Joe
When I taught at our local community college in another life years ago, I knew that if someone didn't understand there were bound to be many others with the same question. Thanks for asking the question. Hopefully these pictures will save the day for my poor explanation!!
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How do you bolt the legs of the bench when you're going into the end grain of a 2 X 4? This is another bench I built 20 + years ago and in this case the end grain of the 2 X 4 is actually the stretcher on the base for the legs but it's the same construction detail. We're talking about the nut that appears to be inside the hole in the 2 X 4 here in the center of the picture.
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Here the bolt is going through what would be the leg on my shop benches into the end grain of the 2 X 4. How do you secure the nut end of it?
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Look at the end of the bench and the short 2 X 4's ( one on top, another on the bottom )There are 2 holes in each of these short 2 X 4.
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Drill a 1" hole in the side of the 2 X 4. Take a piece of electrical conduit which is just 1" diameter thin wall pipe. Cut it the width of the 2 X 4 so when you insert it in the hole you just drilled it won't stick out past the sides of the 2 X 4. Take that piece of conduit and cut it in haft to make a semi-circle. See how the conduit goes just past the top and bottom of the nut, it's now a haft circle. Drill a hole in the conduit so the leg bolt can be inserted through it and then tread the nut onto the bolt. Now when you tighten up the nut it doesn't crush the nut into the end grain of the 2 X 4 and maybe splitting the 2 X 4. By placing the piece of conduit into the hole, it acts as a washer the same profile as the hole in the 2 X 4 and spreads out the surface area of the nut. You can now make that nut much tighter without possibly splitting the 2 X 4.
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This is the other side of the 2 X 4. Since I didn't enclose the base of this bench I didn't bore the 1" hole in the 2 X 4 all the way through like I did on the shop benches. That's because this side is exposed in front of the bench and I didn't want the hole or nut seen. Purely for aesthetics.
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I just used electrical conduit because everybody always has a short piece of it floating around their shop and it's a cheap and easy detail to fabricate and gives good results. Cheap and easy, two endearing words when it comes to building something!
Hopefully all of this will help......... but if not drop me a PM and I'll go into greater detail. Thanks for keeping me on my toes!
Thomas
No, no internet connection. The shop is located out in the weeds. Besides if I had a computer out there.........
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........what would I do with all of these?? A gazillion, bazillion of these got left. I put them all in sealed Rubbermaid plastic tubs in 2006 when they got cleared out and this is the first I've had even a few out. I have no clue as to what manuals are there. How do you keep your keyboard clean when your hands are a greasy??With these you can just smear the pages. I'd think that would be much more satisfying.
Thomas

Since I have VCT tile floors I need to protect them or they will get damaged. Put a loaded jack stand or a loaded floor jack for that matter on the tile unprotected and it will leave an impression in the tile. I also need to protect the tile when welding as the welding " BB's " will burn the tile too. Do that very often and the floors will start to look pretty rough. As you've seen, I use 4' X 8' sheets of 1/4" Masonite for floor protection. They are fairly light weight and easy for one person to handle. It really does the job protecting the tile. The sheets are rather large and ungainly however. What do you do with them when you're not using them? I keep 5 sheets of Masonite on hand and this is my storage solution.
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Look at the wood strip on the left side of the shelving unit. Note there are two shelving units back to back.
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I stack the sheets on end.
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Since the shelving units are back to back they measure on the end, 4' wide and 7' tall. This provides a surface to lean the sheets against. The wood bracket keeps them from flopping over.
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The foot print on the shop floor taken up by the Masonite is just a few inches doing it this way. I also store my sheet cardboard in front of the Masonite. I didn't have the wood bracket extend all the way to the floor. If there is much moisture on the floor from moping, cleaning or anything, the bottom of the backet won't get damaged by keeping it up slightly.
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Top view. The wood bracket is 3/4" plywood, mitered on both corners.
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The bracket was bolted to the shelves with carriage head bolts seen on the left. When they were tightened they just crushed into the plywood. On the right are flat head sheet metal screws. These were screwed to 2 X 4's inside the corner.
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Here's an view inside. You can see the plywood end grain on the left. 2 X 4's were used to back up the plywood in the corner and strengthen the corner joint also.
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Another view. To aid the sheets sliding in, the 2 X 4's were cut on a 45 degree angle. Everything was glued prior to assembly and then the screws helped clamp it all together as the glue dried. The plywood was stained to match the shop trim and finished with polyurethane for durability.
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It's easy to access the sheets from the side. They just slide in or out. The treated wood the sheets rest on, keeps the floor from getting scuffed as the sheets slide.
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Here cardboard sheets are stacked in front of the Masonite. This system works out extremely well. Inexpensive to fabricate, somewhat elegant in it's tidy appearance. It's convenient and easy for one person to slide sheets in or out. Because it's so easy, I never find myself thinking it's too much of a hassle to get either cardboard or Masonite out. I'm sure something similar has been used many times before. This is just how I adapted it to fit my needs and my shop. I'm a happy camper!
There is still more on the way............
Thomas
Wow, you've got piles of these Plastic tub full of treasures... Any day can be Christmas morning...
I'm wondering where all of the Old Hand Tools are....
Joe
Nice idea... I would have separated the 2 racks a few inches and placed the card board and masonite between them... I also notice you don't seem to have any floor plates under the rack uprights to protect your floor tiles... At work we have been using 4 inch square 1/4 inch steel plate under each leg or pair of legs if 2 racks are back to back like your... we also use a similarly sized piece of the scrap floor tile under the plate to prevent rust stains but your idea of powder painting is better...
Time to sleep, hopefully I will be able to return to the latest end of the internet tomorrow morning...
Joe
, but I do remember removing them from the shelves. I still have several pieces of equipment in the shop with tile scraps under them to protect the floor in those areas.Joe, you'll need to study better than this in hopes to pass the quiz/test at the end!In an earlier post you'll find that one of the sons removed much material from the shop for his own personal use. Some was left but the bulk was taken by him. When I get home I'll post a picture of some of the material stacked on and around the lift that he pulled together to remove.
Thomas

