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Removing GFCI from generator

HamAndEggs

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Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
932
Location
Houston, TX
I have a Champion 100520 generator, and it has a regular 240/120 Outlet, and then 2 x 120V GFCI outlets. When I tested the whole house on the 240v output with a generator interlock into my panel, everything was fine.

Today I tested out plugging my UPS into the 120v outlet, as tomorrow I'm having electrical work done (Standby generator install) which means I can't use my interlock while they are working on it

It instantly tripped the GFCI! This is somewhat expected - https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA369034/

Without going to home depot and getting a plug to convert the L14-30 to a NEMA 5-15, I needed to get rid of the GFCI somehow

I took the panel off and realized that I could get a regular outlet in there. I have all sorts of electrical stuff at home, so I threw a new outlet in. I just wanted to post this, as if you get one of these and then in an emergency realize the GFCI will trip with a device, you are SOL. Also GFCI's do go bad, so it might be a good idea to just swap one of them out anyway.

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The included GFCI

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Uhhh, 2012? Thats almost 10 years ago!

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HamAndEggs

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Houston, TX
Yes I did, but I re-attached it now. As I won't have any ground when running like this

I'm thinking of installing a switch so I can easily switch between the two. But I'm also not too concerned running it bonded and feeding the panel. The only way there is a safety issue is if there is a problem with the grounding wire, AND I touch the generator while touching something grounded to the house. This is pretty much impossible where I place my generator
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Joined
Aug 14, 2012
Messages
20,252
Location
Modesto, CA
Just out of curiosity, had you removed the bonding wire for when connected to the house?
Removing the neutral bonding jumper on the generator would NOT prevent the GFCI from tripping due to leakage current. The GFCI doesn't care about a bonded neutral.

this is because a GFCI measures the current on the hot and neutral. When they dont match by more than about 5ma, the GFCI trips.

A GFCI also doesnt care about current on an EGC. and will still work if the EGC is not connected to it.
Yes I did, but I re-attached it now. As I won't have any ground when running like this

I'm thinking of installing a switch so I can easily switch between the two. But I'm also not too concerned running it bonded and feeding the panel. The only way there is a safety issue is if there is a problem with the grounding wire, AND I touch the generator while touching something grounded to the house. This is pretty much impossible where I place my generator
That is incorrect. Removing the neutral bonding jumper does not do anything to the functionality of the EGC IF you have a 4-wire feed to the panel. The neutral bonding jumper is needed for breakers to be able to trip when there is a ground fault to a bonded metal pathway.

Also, you only want the neutral bonded in one place. When connected to a house, the main service panel is the only place that should have a neutral bond. Otherwise you have a potential for shock

Adding the neutral bonding switch is a good idea. or you can make a bonding plug which is easier than adding the switch
Extreme Times call for extreme measures.

You could also try an isolation transformer.
an isolation transformer is totally overkill
 
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HamAndEggs

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Joined
Nov 16, 2020
Messages
932
Location
Houston, TX
Look on the Forums and do a search several mods for the SWITCH..I did 1 also..
POST#37

Just got this done, looks pretty good. Excuse the wonky stickers, might make new ones later

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I cut the neutral going to the bonding point and then threw a few Wago's in the way to extend the wire over to the switch.

Ideally the switch would be all the way on the right, but there was no room there
 
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