The official cargo trailer thread (pictures)

[IRQVET]

I recently popped for a new cargo trailer and I'm alway facinated with what people can do with these things. From mobile work shops, converting them to RV's, bug out vehicles, or race trailers. Personally I bought mine to haul around my racing go karts, and I plan to build a small bunk house/ bug out so I can not only use it to sleep in during track days, but I can hook to it in the event we need to bug out for hurricane season.

So lets see what you got, how its built, and what you use it for. GJ is a pretty handy group, so I'm curious what you crazy talented folks have done with them.

I've only had mine for one week, but here is my 2021 Arising 7x14. It's currently a blank slate . . .

 

[Sneezer]

Just starting down this road for our troop. We recently replaced our old small trailer with one very similar to yours. Been spending that last couple days surfing Pinterest and other boards for ideas on how best to organize. Due to the size of the old one we always just tossed what we needed into it. Now we might actually be able to have dedicated shelving for chuck boxes, tents and other troop gear.

 

[mds47588]

I work in Nashville for 8 days followed by 6 days off that I spend at my house in south Mississippi near N'awlinz. I also stumbled into a crazy deal on a 6 x 10 enclosed and one thing led to another and now I run freight pretty much every time I head one way or another. I started with being a carrier on uship, but it's at the point that after one run with a regular shipper they call me direct and we both bypass the fees to uship. It costs them less and I make more....we both win.

As for my trailer, I've added etrack rails down the length on both sides, across the front and rear, plus approx halfway up the sidewalls for the length as well. I also have a few small pieces of etrack on the front V-nose section, but it's mainly to hold buckets with excess straps and other miscellaneous stuff. Upgraded the stock steel wheels for some nice looking aluminum ones and it totally changed the look of it. Also, it came with a electric tongue jack which makes it so much nicer and faster to hook/un-hook.

 

[milwaukeephil]

I have a 6x12 Aluminum trailer. Previously had a 5x10 steel one but was starting to see rust and traded it in for aluminum. The only thing that's steel on the new one is the axle and leaf springs -- otherwise the frame is all aluminum. First thing I did was paint the walls with exterior paint and install an epoxy garage floor kit. Added rubber base molding so I can now hose it out. Also installed E-Track all around the walls for stuff like hooks, shelves, and anchor points.

After a few years, I added a forced-air RV furnace, an RV window for ventilation/light and Catch Covers for ice fishing.

 

[Lucid Moments]

There is a similar thread over in the general garage discussion forum. I posted the following there and will repost it here because it is worth knowing.

Watch the insulation. I bought a (used) Continental Cargo 24' V nose trailer to haul my race car. Found some rot in the interior walls. Ripped it apart and they had used regular fiberglass batting as insulation. The kind that is meant to go into a 2X4 framed wall stuffed into a 1" gap. I doubt the insulation was anything close to what was claimed and it sucked up water like a sponge and held it against the steel wall frames and wood interior. Lots of rust and rot. Replaced it with blue board which is what should have been used in the first place.

 

[IRQVET]

Can we talk A/C? My rig has .024 siding, so its thin material so my thought process is not to mount a roof A/C system and opt for either a window A/C cut into the wall and shored up, or just saying screw it and running a self enclosed A/c system ($$$) and venting it out the floor. However, my rig does already have a roof vent, so I'm torn as I am no expert on anything I'm doing here for this build.

 

[Steve W.]

Your roof is likely thicker than 0.024". Not sure how much thicker, but still not quite enough to support an A/C unit. I would install braces running front-to-back between the roof bows next to the vent opening so that they will brace the roof. If that isn't enough support to console you, you could also put a piece of 1/4" or 5/16" plywood between the bows, too. find a way to anchor the plywood to the bows, that should spread out the load quite nicely.

.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Can we talk A/C? My rig has .024 siding, so its thin material so my thought process is not to mount a roof A/C system and opt for either a window A/C cut into the wall and shored up, or just saying screw it and running a self enclosed A/c system ($$$) and venting it out the floor. However, my rig does already have a roof vent, so I'm torn as I am no expert on anything I'm doing here for this build.

Also consider a mini-split with the compressor/condenser mounted on the tongue. I have seen that done and it can work really well.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Rooftop AC units will go right in a standard 14x14" roof hole for vents or otherwise. Need to have sufficient steel structure to support the rooftop AC unit though. It's a good all-in-one option IMO.

I refurbished this trailer earlier this year:

 

[IRQVET]

Well I almost finished painting the inside. But I ran out of the Behr textured deck over paint I was using on the floor. Here is a snap of the my supports, are these good enough to roof mount an A/C? I've considered a mini split, but my tongue is pretty small so I don't think there is enough real estate.

 

[shortykorte]

Hey neighbor. We should get together to discuss cargo conversions. I’ve had my trailer for 12 yrs with the same goals as you. The last couple of years I’ve watched a ton of conversion and van builds. I have my design and started collecting parts. Plan is to start next month.
On the AC, I’m doing a portable room AC. I have One I use it at the shop, during hurricanes and soon the trailer. Majority of conversions go with a small window AC in the side or the back.

On insulation, the rigid foam or wool is the way to go because of the leak issue and condensation associated with cargo trailers.
look forward to seeing what you come up with.

 

[IRQVET]

I just ordered an 80 amp circuit breaker (50amp/30amp) and I'm squirreling away parts too. But this will be a very budget freindly bare bones build. Just for the occasional over night stay at the race track a few times a year.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Well I almost finished painting the inside. But I ran out of the Behr textured deck over paint I was using on the floor. Here is a snap of the my supports, are these good enough to roof mount an A/C? I've considered a mini split, but my tongue is pretty small so I don't think there is enough real estate.

I'd rather see the roof support bars go on either side of the opening. Meaning in my opinion, it'd be better to have an extra whole-roof brace that defines the other side of the opening.

If you can get up there and jump on it without the roof bending, then yeah, it's probably strong enough. The rooftop units aren't light, and combined with the bouncing going down the road, the roof has to be built to support the AC.

 

[IRQVET]

Still working on it, as far as a race trailer is concerned, it’s a work in progress . . .

Been stepping up the “process” a bit as I have an out of town 3 day regional race next week.

 

[shortykorte]

Didn’t think about putting tin signs on the wall. Nice.

 

[BreeStephany]

Here is my work wagon. It is a 14' Cargo Mate cargo trailer with dual axles. Its been a work in progress over the past two years and is ever evolving.

https://imgur.com/EfmQR27

https://imgur.com/Izjk9vA

My work bench inside. The countertop is very nice for cleaning tools and working on prefab work. I have a charging shelf above for keeping my M28 charger, M12 charger, Milwaukee 4V Ni-Cd charger, Makita 18V LXT dual bay charger, Milwaukee M18/M12 SuperCharger, a multi-port usb charger and my Milwaukee USB charger and power supply.

https://imgur.com/UK0LZ7j

I use the computer a lot for reviewing plans and spec sheets, working on 'as-builts', writing work emails & work orders as well as occasionally modifying PLC programs as needed when I'm working on industrial controls.

https://imgur.com/HYvnP25

Tool box for storing 'specialty' tools that I do not use every day and don't keep in toolbags.








Shelf under the work bench that I use for storing extra consumables and a few tools.


Tool & consumable shelves.

https://imgur.com/H3NfEW8

I built the back set of slant shelves are for storing tools in cases, most of my commonly accessed tools and for storing tool cases that have some weight to them. Between the side of the shelf and the back door, I built a holder for my 24" ~ 72" Stabila levels.


Flat shelves for storing consumables on top in bins and various smaller tool cases on the lower shelves



I bought a HF parts rack and built individual shelves for each row of bins to support the bins. I used the metal hanging brackets of the rack and secured them at the back of the shelves to keep the bins in place. Been working great for 2 years without issue.

https://imgur.com/IFv67vU

I put a modular storage rail on the front of the trailer for storing extension cords, my pipe reamers, conduit benders, shovels and various other tools and gear.

https://imgur.com/Gnz5DMQ

The trailer is still a work in progress as I acquire more tools and adapt the layout to better fit my needs.

I bought the trailer used and got a pretty good deal on it. It had been previously used as a mobile hot water pressure washing trailer, so it had a few issues I had to fix when I bought it, but the frame and axles were in great shape.

The original floor was heavily stained with diesel fuel and the smell was very strong. I painted the original floor in block primer and then put down 1/4" finish plywood to cover and seal the original floor.

I also had to patch the hole in the roof, which was used for the heater exhaust, but just covered it with a new sheet of aluminum. I used RTV sealant between the existing roof and the patch and then covered the entire patch in snow roof sealant and haven't had any issues since.

I added a 15A 125V male 3R wall plug on the outside of the trailer for shore power. I used a 20A GFCI receptacle on the inside to add GFCI protection to the charging strips and light inside the trailer.

After 2 years of almost daily use, I am very happy with the project overall and think it fits my needs pretty perfectly.

 

[Steve W.]

Here is my work wagon. It is a 14' Cargo Mate cargo trailer with dual 7500lb axles. Its been a work in progress over the past two years and is ever evolving.

https://imgur.com/EfmQR27

The rest of your trailer is absolutely WONDERFUL, but I'm going to have to call "horse hockey" on the axle statement.

In my limited experience with trailers and axles (only about 40 years, so far), 5-lug hubs are generally on 3500-pound axles. With two of those axles and about 500 pounds on the tongue, your trailer might have a GVWR of about 7500 pounds, but there is no way that each of those 5-lug axles will handle 7500 pounds.

.

 

[Magnum440d100]

I have a 2019 mirage x-pres 24’+2’ (v-nose).

bought it to haul stuff/vehicles across country. First things I did were install E-Track along the sides, and install a 12k badlands winch to pull the vehicles in. Just recently (last month after 2 years owning it lol) permanently wired in a house battery. It has come in handy a few times as I’m using it for winter storage temporarily, and the ability to turn on the interior lights made a world of difference! Once the weather warms up, I’ll finish unloading it and do some needed repairs. It’s only a couple years old, but already has 30k+ miles on it which I’m told is a lot(?)

 

[IRQVET]

Here is my work wagon. It is a 14' Cargo Mate cargo trailer with dual axles. Its been a work in progress over the past two years and is ever evolving.

Foam inserts for the tool draws is a great idea!

 

[rick carpenter]

Lots of good suggestions here, but I also suggest searching through contactortalk.com (and maybe electriciantalk.com too?). Several years ago I read through some interesting trailer threads on contractortalk. At that time I was building out a missions/disaster relief trailer for church.

 

[Outlander]

TL;DR but I sure absorbed all the pictures! If I could find my gallery pictures, my paltry collection of trailers pales in comparison.

edit: found one

 

[toyotadriver]

Rooftop AC units will go right in a standard 14x14" roof hole for vents or otherwise. Need to have sufficient steel structure to support the rooftop AC unit though. It's a good all-in-one option IMO.

I refurbished this trailer earlier this year:

I love your trailer! I'd love to have something like that in the future. I have a 7x14 single axle trailer I converted to a camper but I'm now hauling a RZR and would love to have a trailer that we could live in as well as act as a toy hauler. My only issue is I'll need to buy a bigger truck.

Couple questions...do you have pics of the inside? What's the length without the gooseneck part? Do you have a bathroom inside? Any idea what the empty weight is?

Thanks!

 

[Ton ton]

I like old horse trailers the best. Or new ones if you have the money. Those cargo trailers make me feel claustrophobic just looking at the pictures. LOL.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Quick run down of 2021's big project, refurbishing a 28' goose enclosed trailer for the purpose of hauling my toyota around and RV'ing out of it.

As purchased Jan 30 '21






Gutted, torn apart, rust in the structure fixed, extra doors removed, new door+windows framed, bent hat posts straightened, May 1 '21:




New siding, trim, windows, entrance door, awning fabric, vehicle tie downs and floor, June 3 '21:





Insulation, kitchentte, water system, electrical system, fridge, dividing wall, window in the entrance door, Dec 28 '21.

Looking back, it's cool to see how much was accomplished. I love using it.

 

[PhantomEB]

subscribed to this thread as this is my new little 6x10x6.5. Predominately for quad storage/hauling.

currently I am just waiting for some decent weather to lay down the lino. Plans are solar trickle chargers for the onboard battery as well quad. Led strip lighting around the perimeter and a work bench. I will also steal the E-track on the wall idea.

 

[PhantomEB]

Double post

 

[Nortonscustom]

Ordered a 20' Haulmark a while back to store and transport my little plane. It's a tight fight, kind of wish I had gone with 24' or a v-nose. Come spring plan on mounting a folding bench, tool storage etc.

 

[PhantomEB]

I have started to modify my little cargo trailer to become my toy hauler. Lino and etracks laid down. Need to get more aluminum angle iron for baseboards and screws to finish off the floor. Also need one more 6’ chunk of e track to go across the front.

primary use is for storage/hauling of my quad and camping use.

 

[shortykorte]

What size? 6x10 or 6x1

I have started to modify my little cargo trailer to become my toy hauler. Lino and etracks laid down. Need to get more aluminum angle iron for baseboards and screws to finish off the floor. Also need one more 6’ chunk of e track to go across the front.

primary use is for storage/hauling of my quad and camping use.

What size, 6x10 or 6x12? Looks a lot like mine. Lino makes it look a lot better. I put L track in the same place you did E track. The tracks make life so much better.

 

[PhantomEB]

What size? 6x10 or 6x1

What size, 6x10 or 6x12? Looks a lot like mine. Lino makes it look a lot better. I put L track in the same place you did E track. The tracks make life so much better.

It’s a 6x10 with 2’ extra of Vnose.

Never heard of L track, will look into it for my curiosity.

 

[PhantomEB]

Put one more strip across the front where the Vnose bench will go.

this strip is for the Genset and jerry cans. Solar panels are inbound which will be trickle chargers for the onboard battery/invertor/LED rope lighting. Second panel be for keeping my quad battery excited and warm therefore fully charged.

haven’t decided where the power bar will go. I am thinking underneath the edge of the bench, up the peak of the Vnose or beside the man door.

i do also plan underneath led strip lighting in red for the 3+ hr highway drives.