Copper pipe for compressor lines.
- Thread starter StinkBug
- Start date
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
I'm not sure why anyone would want to use refrigeration tubing but keep in mind if you use 1/2" or 3/4" ACR tubing you'll have to buy all your fittings from the HVAC supply house and also some of the typical fittings you may need like maybe a thread to a sweat might not even be available in ACR. The 1/2" and 3/4" fittings sold at the big box stores will not fit.
Not sure how i stumbled on this old thread but this post is sort of incorrect. ACR tubing is type L that has been nitrogen charged and plugged to keep moisture out for refrigeration use. Refrigeration 7/8" ACR, type L, even M etc. is 3/4" Plumbers. 3/4" inch "plumbers" has a OD of 7/8" same as the box stores 3/4". Refrigeration 5/8" is plumbers 1/2" size.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Just don't breathe any of the compressed air unless the hose is rated for potable use.
Tommy
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Plumbing is measured in nominal ID. HVAC/ACR is measured in OD. Pretty much any wrought copper fitting is OK and will fit.
Tommy
Gentleman Adventurer
Well-known member
Thread revival to say "Thanks for the Copper Handbook reference" Answers all the questions.
D45
Well-known member
Local fire department has a new multi million dollar facility
Air lines throughout all plumbed with copper
Air lines throughout all plumbed with copper
nadogail
Well-known member
With a large enough budget, I would have used Copper; but I have a Harbor Freight air hose threaded through the trusses. The hose is working and it is paid for.
Bad Eye Bill
Well-known member
I was going to ask if anyone ever used PEX but figured I would be laughed outta here. Now that the subject is open, I'm curious if you are serious or being humourous? It's hard to tell here sometimes.
By the way, I used copper in my shop. Been there for many years, sweated all joints myself.
rlitman
Well-known member
I've used it extensively. It works fairly well, though ordinary PEX isn't technically rated for air (PEX-Al-PEX is). The only place I have an issue is on my compressor drain. Something (might not even be the PEX though) seeps oil, and the PEX loop under my compressor is perpetually wet with oil. Not a big deal until it drips onto my drill press handle, so I keep a rag around there.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I think it's also worth noting that most (all?) pex isn't UV resistant, so that should be considered when planning the run
Bad Eye Bill
Well-known member
Crimped connections or SharkBite fittings?
rlitman
Well-known member
True (though PEX-Al-PEX should be ok). In my case, none of it is exposed to direct sunlight. It's either inside my garage (which has shaded polycarbonate panels over the glass windows so any light that enters is filtered, and I don't have any fluorescent lights either), buried in walls (I have a PEX air distribution within my house that I can charge with a hose reel on the side of my garage, designed for easy air tool use in the house as well as a way to blow out sprinkler lines), or a short run going to my sandblaster under an awning is wrapped in aluminum tape.
Oetiker clamps. SharkBite is expensive, and really buys me nothing with air, so I couldn't imagine using it. It's ability to slip onto copper and quickly shut off a water line is a good selling point, but when everything's easily broken apart and threaded, why use a push-on connector?
Bad Eye Bill
Well-known member
Thanks. What size PEX did you use?
rlitman
Well-known member
I used 1/2" PEX for everything air related, with brass fittings. 1/2" will flow more air than pretty much any one of my tools can use.
Bad Eye Bill
Well-known member
rlitman
Well-known member
Any time. I don't think it's possible to derail an 11 year old thread that's crept back from the dead several times already.
D45
Well-known member
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I would personally skip both the sharkbites and oetiker clamps and use upnor propex. The milwaukee tool is a little salty but you can either resell it and recoup all but 50 dollars of the purchase price or keep it for other product. Pex A tubing used for it is much better that B or C and the fitting don't choke flow like crimp fittings. Also there can be alot more moisture setting in a system with crimp fittings due to the smaller diameter.
and yes I will
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Buying a propress machine to do a single air system is the epitome of garage journal. LolI would personally skip both the sharkbites and oetiker clamps and use upnor propex. The milwaukee tool is a little salty but you can either resell it and recoup all but 50 dollars of the purchase price or keep it for other product. Pex A tubing used for it is much better that B or C and the fitting don't choke flow like crimp fittings. Also there can be alot more moisture setting in a system with crimp fittings due to the smaller diameter.
and yes I will
Firebrick43
Well-known member
when i bought mine, it was 400 bucks. They were going 350 plus on ebay. 50 dollar long term rental is how I look at it.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I hadn't looked in a bit, so I was thinking over a grand.
Either way, just busting balls. I buy one-time tools all the time
I recently plumbed PEX B in my shop with Otiker clamps. No issues, No leaks at all.
3/4in around the entire perimeter of the ceiling, full loop. Also did another full length across, for drops on the lift. Like a figure 8 per say, so no loss at the furthest drop from compressor. All 12 drops are 1/2in PEX to Drop Ear T fittings that also have 22in more drip legs and ball valves at bottom to drain moisture. I used about 185ft of 3/4 and 120ft of 1/2in total. For the corners I used the copper 90* bends, not the right angle brass 90's. Doubt it really matters for flow in 3/4in but that was my thought. Compressor pressure SW adjusted to 155psi off, no other regulator to the pex.
All the fittings were ordered online @ about a third of the cost of the box stores.
The Drop Ear T fittings I used
Simple to cut into and change or ad anything as needed.
I also used Goodyear Galaxy automotive air conditioning rubber hose for the flex hose from compressor to wall. I have AC line crimper and the supplies to do it. Had used the same at old shop for over 10yrs.
3/4in around the entire perimeter of the ceiling, full loop. Also did another full length across, for drops on the lift. Like a figure 8 per say, so no loss at the furthest drop from compressor. All 12 drops are 1/2in PEX to Drop Ear T fittings that also have 22in more drip legs and ball valves at bottom to drain moisture. I used about 185ft of 3/4 and 120ft of 1/2in total. For the corners I used the copper 90* bends, not the right angle brass 90's. Doubt it really matters for flow in 3/4in but that was my thought. Compressor pressure SW adjusted to 155psi off, no other regulator to the pex.
All the fittings were ordered online @ about a third of the cost of the box stores.
The Drop Ear T fittings I used
Simple to cut into and change or ad anything as needed.
I also used Goodyear Galaxy automotive air conditioning rubber hose for the flex hose from compressor to wall. I have AC line crimper and the supplies to do it. Had used the same at old shop for over 10yrs.
Dan in Pasadena
Well-known member
On the subject of PVC - I had occasion to see inside my brother-in-law's garage just the other day. I'd not been inside in probably 5+ years. All his compressor piping is PVC. And I know a lot of it has been in there 25 years.
I didn't say a word. He's 76 and health-wise he's got one foot on a banana peel if you know what I mean. He never uses his compressor or nearly anything anymore. Hopefully it gets torn out and goes with the house after he passes.
I didn't say a word. He's 76 and health-wise he's got one foot on a banana peel if you know what I mean. He never uses his compressor or nearly anything anymore. Hopefully it gets torn out and goes with the house after he passes.
nadogail
Well-known member
I had never considered PEX, thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Check out Matt Risinger on YT. He did a bunch of freezing water filled PEX and pressure testing of various pipe brands and fitting types. Neat stuff.
Also AvE mentioned in one of his vids he used PEX in his shop, didn't show any of the install... just a mention once. Thats what made me do the research and found a few vids on YT. There are a lot of guys on here that have done the same too from my searches.
My old shop, I used some of the RapidAir in 1/2in, too small ID IMO. 1/2in is the OD. 1/2in PEX is the ID so your prolly looking at 2X the flow of the RapidAir and lots cheaper to plump an entire shop. Mine is 25X50.
Also had a fitting separate in old shop with RapidAir, of course I left the compressor on and burned it up.
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Ohmthis
Well-known member
What is this kit?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Rapidair
Jwallace1
Well-known member
ill be doing my airlines this winter and i looked into the Rapidair stuff and i think the kit referenced above in 3/4 is about $200 and that's 100' of pipe with the fittings listed and the additional fittings are spendy. its more expensive than doing a copper system. have also heard its a pain to straighten but have not done it myself. is it just PEX AL?
anyone have thoughts on doing copper with press fittings? the fittings are not that expensive and saves me from having to solder joints up in the ceiling next to finished surfaces. if i could have the system basically installed and rent the tool for $100 or so it wouldn't take long to go around and press all of the joints in a day and not worry about a bad solder joint and having to redo a connection
thanks
anyone have thoughts on doing copper with press fittings? the fittings are not that expensive and saves me from having to solder joints up in the ceiling next to finished surfaces. if i could have the system basically installed and rent the tool for $100 or so it wouldn't take long to go around and press all of the joints in a day and not worry about a bad solder joint and having to redo a connection
thanks
gerryw
Well-known member
I think thats a good option, all my lines are soldered, with through the wall sections being 1 piece.
All connections are accessible in case of leaks, but none in 22yrs.
I use the cheaper copper lines ( big box store) with no issues.
gerry
All connections are accessible in case of leaks, but none in 22yrs.
I use the cheaper copper lines ( big box store) with no issues.
gerry
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Soft soldering does not anneal copper, temperature used is below annealing temperature, In NYC at one time they wanted brazing of copper pipe as code, brazing temperature is much higher than soldering temperature, brazing destroys copper pipe strength.
"Copper tubing (Fig. 1) is typically "annealed" in the temperature range of 700-1200ºF (370-650ºC). "
"and not worry about a bad solder joint and having to redo a connection"
If you clean /flux/inspect solder connections there is nothing to worry about.
If your lazy and cut corners you deserve leaking joints
"Copper tubing (Fig. 1) is typically "annealed" in the temperature range of 700-1200ºF (370-650ºC). "
"and not worry about a bad solder joint and having to redo a connection"
If you clean /flux/inspect solder connections there is nothing to worry about.
If your lazy and cut corners you deserve leaking joints
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Tinkering_hobbyist
Member
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- Feb 10, 2022
- Messages
- 5
I’m doing a smaller line run, basically from the garage into my office, probably about 10’ but I’m using this specifically for air brushing. I rules out black pipe, so not want the rusting but not sure where to buy copper, stainless, or even brass pipes? Looking online it can get costly with shipping. Any suggestions beyond a big box store?
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
What is wrong with copper from a big box store? Plumbing supply is an alternative
pcmeiners
Well-known member
"When you heat copper pipe to solder it, the pipe properties will change (you are annealing it) and it will become softer and the pressure values will change."
Not true for solder but true for brazing.
"Copper tubing (Fig. 1) is typically "annealed" in the temperature range of 700-1200ºF (370-650ºC). Method of heating, furnace design, furnace atmosphere and shape of workpiece are important because they affect uniformity of results, finish and cost".
"I'm always curious about how seven year old threads get dug up."
I am more curious why the question is asked about most old threads, and answered a 1000 times, and it is still brought up/answered by multiple people .
Not true for solder but true for brazing.
"Copper tubing (Fig. 1) is typically "annealed" in the temperature range of 700-1200ºF (370-650ºC). Method of heating, furnace design, furnace atmosphere and shape of workpiece are important because they affect uniformity of results, finish and cost".
"I'm always curious about how seven year old threads get dug up."
I am more curious why the question is asked about most old threads, and answered a 1000 times, and it is still brought up/answered by multiple people .
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Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
Most hardware stores around us sell 10 ft lengths of copper.
Tinkering_hobbyist
Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2022
- Messages
- 5
I was really interested in 316ss or even some brass, was looking at tube options but hard to find the pressure specs I need, wall thickness tends to be thin. Really wanted to have it all threaded just for easier install and to take down if I live within the next couple years. Might just have to **** it up in the costs, it’s not a long run by any means, 1/4” is plenty of air for my purposes.
edit: more I think about it, I’ll probably give pex a shot, cheap enough and out of uv light, not high on pressure demands. More I think about it, would be probably my best bet.
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LOL there is more then 2, Copper would be expensive right now to run for air lines?
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
For airbrushing you’ll be well under 100 psi. Thin wall and compression fittings (if you don’t want to solder) will be fine.
yatg
Well-known member
search challengedI am more curious why the question is asked about most old threads, and answered a 1000 times, and it is still brought up/answered by multiple people times.
PVC is expensive right now too!