thoughts on this 3 in 1 sheet metal shear/roller/bender?

[BTL-A4]

I've been casually looking for a smallish 3-in-1 sheet metal bender/roller/shear. I found this one. It's a 30" 3-in-1. It seems to be missing a few parts (the fingers for the bender, side arms and one roller, it appears). I don't mind fixing it up and I don't absolutely need the roller.

Seller is asking $150 for this and another roller machine missing a gear that is in the same sorry shape. Thoughts?

 

[kabinenroller]

I would pass on them. The rust and missing parts are a turn off for me. I have a “Dayton” (Grainger) brand 30” 3 in 1 machine that I purchased a number of years ago off of Craigslist. It was new in the box and I paid $300 for it delivered to my door. It works well for small jobs and has it’s limitations but it was well worth the money I paid for it.

 

[2oolhound]

I don't think those are finger brakes. I think they just bend light flat metal by placing it across that V-grooved bar on the bottom while the top has a single long knife edge that comes down on it.

Finger brakes are a different animal.

 

[rk_tek]

I would pass. the cost to get it back to operational seems like it would be higher than buying a complete one in better shape.

 

[BTL-A4]

The seller sent me a link for the HF one that's about $500, stating that it was the same as his. That one has fingers. Grizzly sells a similar, if not identical, machine for over $1,000. They have all the parts: the set of fingers is $176 before shipping and tax, the rollers are $120-$142, depending on which one is missing, and the handle assembly could be anywhere from $36-$59.
So, for a mere $332-$377, plus the $150 for the unit (that's $482-$527 for you kids playing along at home), I could get this. Ha!
Now, it does come with the slip roller, but that needs some work, too.
I'm tempted to go look at it and confirm if it is a finger brake, and see what's actually missing. I don't typically pay more than about 50% of new (lowest priced, similar item) for anything on CL or FBMP. So, if it's missing less than $100 worth of parts, it "might" be worth it, but only if I can get it for way less than asking price.

 

[BTL-A4]

I would pass on them. The rust and missing parts are a turn off for me. I have a “Dayton” (Grainger) brand 30” 3 in 1 machine that I purchased a number of years ago off of Craigslist. It was new in the box and I paid $300 for it delivered to my door. It works well for small jobs and has it’s limitations but it was well worth the money I paid for it.

There was another one for sale in decent, but used, shape that sold for around $300. Original asking price was $500.

 

[txvwnut]

The 3-in-1 is missing too many parts to be considered for anything other than scrap. The other one isn’t looking that impressive either.

 

[crguy]

Those combination units are pretty much cheap import **** to be avoided.

 

[mikegt4]

Those combination units are pretty much cheap import **** to be avoided.

x2, we had one at work after the "new" boss got rid of our old school American iron brake. The 3 in 1 wasn't good at doing anything except taking up less space. Too many design and quality compromises to make it acceptable for anything other than small dimensioned thin gage metal.

 

[rsanter]

First off those machines are kind of **** with limited cability.
Depending on the brand and when they were made they will often shear poorly smearing the edge.
The brake part is only for rather thin material and you have to keep the fingers aligned which can be tough at times.

Now with that said it can still be usable if you know the limits.

Odds are it is in the direst outside because it don't work for **** and was ******* someone off. If they liked and cared for the machine they would not have put it outside.


I would be tempted at the $50 to $60 range depending what I see fore putting my eyes on it

 

[BTL-A4]

Those combination units are pretty much cheap import **** to be avoided.

x2, we had one at work after the "new" boss got rid of our old school American iron brake. The 3 in 1 wasn't good at doing anything except taking up less space. Too many design and quality compromises to make it acceptable for anything other than small dimensioned thin gage metal.

First off those machines are kind of **** with limited cability.
Depending on the brand and when they were made they will often shear poorly smearing the edge.
The brake part is only for rather thin material and you have to keep the fingers aligned which can be tough at times.

Now with that said it can still be usable if you know the limits.

Odds are it is in the direst outside because it don't work for **** and was ******* someone off. If they liked and cared for the machine they would not have put it outside.


I would be tempted at the $50 to $60 range depending what I see fore putting my eyes on it

I'm not expecting it to work with thick gage steel or anything like that; just bend lighter gage stuff. I'm a hobbyist looking for a compact machine for light use. There are 12" ones, but they are too small. 30" seems to ne the next size up.

Would a sharp blade make a difference in the shearing quality?

Yeah, I thought the same thing about it being outside, but the seller lives in an area of dirt roads where there are big lots with lots of junk on them. I was planning on taking it apart, cleaning, sanding and painting it, then getting it working again. I'm in no hurry.

I was also thinking $50 was appropriate, but still too high. I can probably make the fingers. They are just 1/4" thick steel with a 45 degree point of the end.

 

[rsanter]

I'm not expecting it to work with thick gage steel or anything like that; just bend lighter gage stuff. I'm a hobbyist looking for a compact machine for light use. There are 12" ones, but they are too small. 30" seems to ne the next size up.

Would a sharp blade make a difference in the shearing quality?

Yeah, I thought the same thing about it being outside, but the seller lives in an area of dirt roads where there are big lots with lots of junk on them. I was planning on taking it apart, cleaning, sanding and painting it, then getting it working again. I'm in no hurry.

I was also thinking $50 was appropriate, but still too high. I can probably make the fingers. They are just 1/4" thick steel with a 45 degree point of the end.

For a shear to work it is both the sharpness of the blade, quality of blade material, and the gap between the top and bottom blades

 

[txvwnut]

The issue I’ve found with mine and a friend of mines is the table or lower blade support flexes when trying to shear anything that’s close to or over half of the max cutting width capability. Also the upper blade will bow away from the lower while trying to shear, this can be compensated by putting pre-load on it with the bolt on the back of the upper shear. I’ve found no way to fix the table flex issue other than getting a piece of cold rolled steel and machining it to the same dimensions of the cheap cast table.

The other issue with these 3-in-1 units is if you have it properly setup to shear and need to bend or roll something you have to or should move the lower table away from the moving the blade.

 

[NUTTSGT]

If its the same as the HF unit pass unless you get it absolutely dirt cheap. I bought one and it went back the same day.

It was supposed to shear something like 26ga. I tried a piece of 29 or 30 and it wouldn't shear it.