Shiftless
Well-known member
Wow! I posted that photo of mine 7 months ago. Yes, I have seen that model with and without the accessory hole.Just found my Parker 63 1/2 and noticed it didn't have that hole on the anvil. Was that a different version?
Wow! I posted that photo of mine 7 months ago. Yes, I have seen that model with and without the accessory hole.Just found my Parker 63 1/2 and noticed it didn't have that hole on the anvil. Was that a different version?



Man do I owe you Ejot and Fierljeppen as well for the history lesson I recieved! I have been eying this vise but didn’t think too much of it like everyone else apparently as no markings seller could find. Has been posted for weeks. I think I found one of the extremely old pre-1867 Parkers but this one is a 4” jaw Filers vise with amazing jaws Iv never seen before! It also has the remnants of patent stampings on the dynamic jaw. I’m working on cleaning it up very delicately and leaving all the patina it has earned over the last 154-167 years. I’ll post up some pictures once Iv cleaned it up with my wire brushes and dremel over the next week. Any chance anyone knows anything about this or can maybe find a catalog page? I struck out myself but I’m never any good at finding that stuff. Only damage is a small piece of the dynamic support broke off the front edge which is very minor and not a big deal at all in my eyes. The pic of the dynamic jaw wire wheeled shows “CT“ to the left middle, what looks almost like “VISE” in the middle, and then “854” to the right toward bottom for the year of the 1854 Parker patent


Love the Dodge !!!I stopped collecting vises a while ago, sold off about 40 or so, and am now down to about 10 "users". I still keep an eye open though and have recently picked up a couple of interesting vises. One is a Dodge slide set vise in exceptional condition, and today I was lucky enough to pick up a "quest" of mine, a Paramo #6. It's rough looking, but actually in pretty good shape - or will be when I'm done. Nice thing is it ahs the relatively scarce rotary base.
The Paramo is quite a brute, looks quite big even against my C3.
Vise-anon .... meets every Thurs eve at the church hall ... "voluntary" sub is one rare vise per.Is there a 12 step program to help us kick this vise addiction?
Shiftless, if there is, I might sign upIs there a 12 step program to help us kick this vise addiction?
. I decided to offer $100 plus a 1/3hp block grinder that was in pretty rough shape and he took it.
Deker, the ones in my Starrett were brass and very tight. I got 2 of them out by inserting a 1/4" hex drive #2 phillips between the jaws with the business end of the bit in the screw head and a steel backplate behind the opposite end of the bit so I wouldn't damage the opposite screw. Close the vise jaw with slight pressure. The hex bit cannot back out because it is effectively held captive. With a 1/4" wrench, turn the bit back and forth slightly to detect any movement. If you have not already, apply oil penetrant. If resistant apply increasing force, if ti still will not move, break down the setup and apply heat to the screw head as directly as possible and let it cool. Then resetup and go again. applying more force. The screw will either turn or the head will strip out. If it turns open the jaws just enough to allow the screw to back out. 2 of mine came loose, the other 2 I drilled out with a left hand bit and drill in reverse. Once the bit penetrated the screw head a little, the screw just backed out under drill power. Left hand bits are essential for any broken screws or bolts. This is how I approach this problem, I hope it helps or gives you some ideas.A few weeks ago I picked up this Starrett 924 that had been sitting on OfferUp for a while. The seller originally listed it after it had apparently lost a fight with a paint mixer. When it didn't sell, he cleaned it up and spray painted it gray, but he didn't even bother to remove the washers when he painted it. I decided to offer $100 plus a 1/3hp block grinder that was in pretty rough shape and he took it.
Once home, I disassembled, stripped the paint, applied black metal oil, clear coated it, installed a needle roller thrust bearing behind the meatball, and mounted it to a 3/8" laser cut plate that I drilled / tapped / countersunk to allow me to put it right where I wanted it on my bench. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.
The only issue I had was not being able to remove jaw screws. Does anybody have any tips for removal? Are the screws countersunk at a standard angle or are they unique?
I know that I have a serious problem! Yesterday I purchased a set of NOS vice jaws for a Reed 4C !!! I don't even own a 4C... ...yetMost people here are on a 12 step program to find MORE vises!![]()
It appears to be a DROPFO made by FultonThis showed up on Marketplace today. Anyone recognize this? It's a four inch for $40 is anyone is interested.
Great idea to use the vise to hold the bit captive. I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the advice.Deker, the ones in my Starrett were brass and very tight. I got 2 of them out by inserting a 1/4" hex drive #2 phillips between the jaws with the business end of the bit in the screw head and a steel backplate behind the opposite end of the bit so I wouldn't damage the opposite screw. Close the vise jaw with slight pressure. The hex bit cannot back out because it is effectively held captive. With a 1/4" wrench, turn the bit back and forth slightly to detect any movement. If you have not already, apply oil penetrant. If resistant apply increasing force, if ti still will not move, break down the setup and apply heat to the screw head as directly as possible and let it cool. Then resetup and go again. applying more force. The screw will either turn or the head will strip out. If it turns open the jaws just enough to allow the screw to back out. 2 of mine came loose, the other 2 I drilled out with a left hand bit and drill in reverse. Once the bit penetrated the screw head a little, the screw just backed out under drill power. Left hand bits are essential for any broken screws or bolts. This is how I approach this problem, I hope it helps or gives you some ideas.
You're all good, real deal, US made. That one was well cared for and has a great look to it. Seller was probably thrown off by the logo sticker. Nice grab.I’ve always been interested in the Wilton round slide vises but the prices were always way too high. A few weeks ago I found a 9400 stationary vise and today I acquired a second Wilton/Snap on 1760.
One question though the seller was confused about it being “fake” or real. Either way I got it for a good price. I did some searches and it seems like this is a real Wilton 1760 rebadged for SO but am I wrong? Was it also made in USA? I’m pretty sure I’m keeping it regardless. There seems to be no rust, just a lot of grease and gunk everywhere.
You're all good, real deal, US made. That one was well cared for and has a great look to it. Seller was probably thrown off by the logo sticker. Nice grab.
Thanks! Sorry for the delayed reply--I'm out of the country at the moment with intermittant access to the net. As for the longevity, I used it first only about four months ago, so I can't give first hand experience on how well it lasts--although the can says it has UV and Rust inhibitors. They do say that you should use a second coat if you don't clear coat it after the first one. I see you've decided to go with a dark gray paint. I hope it comes out great. Be sure to post pictures after you finish.What a nice Wilton bullet! I saw that stuff when researching and never heard of it before. How's it do in terms of longevity? Does it protect as long as paint or do you have to recoat it every few years like BLO? TIA
Yeah, it's definitely real. Snapon rebadged Wilton Tradesmen vises, which is what you haveOkay cool, thanks for the quick reply! And yeah I’m thinking of replacing my yost no. 4 for this one. I guess I’ll know after I finish cleaning it up.
Yeah, it's definitely real. Snapon rebadged Wilton Tradesmen vises, which is what you have
Wow, with the scarcity of that green paint, are you sure you didn't lose money?I rehabbed one just like that with the plan to flip it.
After stripping it and polishing up the bare metal parts, I painted it Rustoleum Sunrise Red. That color is a close match to the red seen on many Snap On tool boxes.
I quickly found a buyer but he hesitated because the color was so bright. Since he didn’t try to negotiate on the price, I threw in a can of Rustoleum Hammered Verde Green (which is a close match to many of the later Wilton machinist vises) and that made the deal happen.
Moral of the story… your vise, your color.
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Rehab is for quitters.I conquered my vise addiction, sold all the vises I wasn't using, and thought I was in the clear. But like many I fell off the wagon and bought two at a few yardsales a couple weeks ago, and now I'm back to searching the classifieds ever few minutes and asking people I know if they run across any, to let me know.
I dont have the willpower to stop.

I looked at so many photos and videos of refinished vises, the Mrs complained that vises were showing up on her Amazon "Suggested Purchases". I decided I did not want the overpainted glossy and bling-bling lettering that I saw on so many restorations. So I went for a rough cast iron look. It was probably a mistake but to avoid overpainting that diminishes the vertical relief of the lettering in the casting, I skipped priming and used a a Rustoleum paint that claims to also prime. I tried removing the paint and buffing the lettering on "Littlestown" and "No. 400" but that didn't some out so good with the red rouge compound leaving some dust behind I can't get off. Oh well. Time will tell.Thanks! Sorry for the delayed reply... I see you've decided to go with a dark gray paint. I hope it comes out great. Be sure to post pictures after you finish.

