What would you do? Toolbox/top dilemma

[ugotd8]

Hi all. I've got paralysis by analysis right now and would love a fresh idea or two.

My problem is the existing bench is 31" deep and the toolbox and it's top are only 24" deep. I want to fill the gap so to speak for more work surface area.

The toolbox is a Husky (I was given a snap-on badge and put it to good use :-D ) with the adjustable top and when raised it looks like there are easily removed screws holding it to the frame. I was thinking to find a different top and cut it to size (72x30 or 31) and then screw it on but that presents a problem with cost and which material to use.

Another option would be to build some sort of 7" shelf and attach to the back wall?

And another would be to get some sheetmetal bent at a 90 and attach it to the back of the box.



Would love to hear any ideas, thank you.

 

[Shiftless]

To me, that lift up lid slash work surface would be too frustrating.
I would sell that box, buy a different one, and then build a new workbench top going all the way across that space.

 

[tomtomgt356]

How thick is the top and what type of work would you be doing on it?

I'm not a fine woodworker, more of a 2x4 and rough plywood guy. My thought would be remove the top, use a 3/4" sheet of plywood on top cut to size. If you want a smoother surface, add a sheet of hardboard or 3/4 MDF on top for a smooth surface. Even with some trim, you should have a strong useable surface under $100 (even at today's prices).

 

[ugotd8]

How thick is the top and what type of work would you be doing on it?

I'm not a fine woodworker, more of a 2x4 and rough plywood guy. My thought would be remove the top, use a 3/4" sheet of plywood on top cut to size. If you want a smoother surface, add a sheet of hardboard or 3/4 MDF on top for a smooth surface. Even with some trim, you should have a strong useable surface under $100 (even at today's prices).

The top is 1". That's a good idea, thanks!

 

[ugotd8]

To me, that lift up lid slash work surface would be too frustrating.
I would sell that box, buy a different one, and then build a new workbench top going all the way across that space.

Lol I wish! The Icon version of this 72" is $3k and can't touch the others for under $4500. I got a sweet deal on this box for $750 and then spent the savings on snap-on tools. The only downside to this box in my view is there is only one wide drawer while SO and Icon have two.

The top will never be raised once I get everything situated anyway.

 

[BillK]

Personally I would cut a piece the same thickness as the existing top to fit the gap. Then glue it to the back of the existing top with about 6 dowels to line it up. It will be plenty strong and more than likely you wont be putting a lot of weight on the back edge anyway.

 

[Metallitubby]

I suggest doing something with the wall (ala your shelf idea). The box has wheels and it will need to be moved elsewhere at some point in time. You may even want something else later on and be stuck with a funky box-top. What about a shelf for a bolt/hardware organizer that sits on the floor up to the level of the box-top?

The last shop I worked in was really awkward with a void behind my box. I ended up doing something very similar with a bolt-bin/organizer to fill the gap.

Just my opinion of course.

 

[619DioFan]

Just need 3 heavy duty L - brackets and bolt them to the wall 1 and 1/2 inch below the top of the box , lay a piece of 2x8 on top of them and attach. push your box up against.

 

[slow]

if you don't need peg board behind it, I have mounted drawer organizer bins behind a bench like that, not so much to fill a gap, but just a useful place for small part storage, they tend to be 6" deep or so

 

[CraigStu]

I agree w/ 619DioFan. I wouldn't modify the box top. Pretty much anything you do won't be as nice looking as that butcher block. And you never know but at some point a project might be easier to work on w/ that top in it's raised position.

 

[gorilla]

Your sheet metal idea is the best in IMHO. Bend it in a Z shape screw it to the back edge of the top and have a 1" lip on the back to keep things from rolling off. SS'T would be a nice touch.

 

[ugotd8]

Well, some great advice gentlemen. Thank you. This morning I typed '72x30' into craigslist and I'll be damned but someone was selling these brand new laminated desktops. Not as stout as the solid wood top that came with it but for $20 it just can't be beat. Going to attach it using the same mount points and save the original in case I ever want to sell the box. I also have a piece of corrugated rubber coming in the mail for a cover. It's dead easy to change the tops on this one since the top can be raised. Thanks again fellas!

 

[steaks&anvils]

I have seen people use the rear void to store sheet metal or scrap/odd cut off lengths of wood/pipe/metal etc. Slid in from the open end side.

Also I have seen slots or holes cut into the top along the back by the wall over the void. To allow long items to be stored through the top. Pry bars, long screw drivers, hand saws etc. In kitchens I've seen knife holders along the back splash like that.

or you can just store the original top back there...

 

[Metallitubby]

someone was selling these brand new laminated desktops.

It's like it was meant to be.

 

[ZRX61]

I'd have pushed the toolbox 7in closer to the wall...

 

[ugotd8]

I'd have pushed the toolbox 7in closer to the wall...

Hahaha, you sound like my wife.

 

[Metallitubby]

Hahaha, you sound like my wife.

What? Always wanting 7" deeper ?

 

[ugotd8]

What? Always wanting 7" deeper ?

Hahahaha, you win the internet today. Fantastic!

 

[EarlyBroncoGuy]

 

[ugotd8]

Very nice!

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I have seen people use the rear void to store sheet metal or scrap/odd cut off lengths of wood/pipe/metal etc. Slid in from the open end side.

Exactly what I was thinking.