Rack Ideas: 20' lengths of steel on a 12' vehicle

[Jack Olsen]

I've got a pair of projects coming up where I'm going to need small quantities of steel and it would be better for me if I didn't have to get them cut by my supplier (I'd only have to **** weld them back together) -- and I'd rather not pay the fee to get them delivered. Instead, I've been thinking about building some kind of side or top rack to carry the steel with my old Jeep.

I've done a little bit of research online, and the California laws (seem to) say it's all right to have a load ahead of the vehicle so long as it doesn't 'extend more than three feet beyond the foremost part of the front bumper.' For the rear, the code says 'the load shall not extend to the rear beyond the last point of support for a greater distance than that equal to two-thirds of the length of the wheelbase.'

I'm reading this all to mean that I can add 36" ahead of the Jeep and 61.5" behind it (since the CJ-7 wheelbase is 93.5".

My initial idea is to build a rack with stops on both ends, to make tying down the stock safer and a little easier. But with a vehicle that's only 144" long, this gives me 241.5" of total legal length, which is going to just barely cover 240" lengths, since they're often a little bit longer than an even 20 feet.

My first thought was to put the rack on the passenger side, affixing it at three or four points on the Jeep (with a permanent red warning flag on the back). But maybe it makes more sense to put the whole rack up top? I'm open to any suggestions and ideas.

I've never seen a rack like this on a Jeep. Has anyone else? Again, this would be for small loads of steel (1" square tubing or less, only like 6-12 pieces), moved for the less-than-10-mile trip between my supplier and my garage.

 

[Bjkearns]

this is interesting
Im thinking a trailer would be alot easier?

 

[Boyd]

I would think you could easily whip something up similar to below...

 

[mdbeck1]

I'd think real hard about buying a set of these (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) and mounting one of the front bumper, one on the back (or make your own). They had another one (http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053) that might work better for you.

I've been following your garage build so I know you could handle fabrication of your own and it would probably have more/better features than any of them that you would purchase. IMHO If I had your fabrication skills I would build my own that had a permanently mounted "receiver" on the bumpers and two removable inverted "L" brackets that set in the receivers. It should be fine for lighter loads (under 100-150 lb). Check the ratings on the factory ones for weight comparison. Of course then you will have to carry a tape measure with you to make sure that you don't go over length.

 

[mdbeck1]

Note: If you angle the steel ACROSS the vehicle (Right front to left rear) the distance along the line of the car will be slightly less. That might keep you inside the DOT rules for length...

...If you do the above don't forget to keep both ends in line with the sides of the vehicle.

...and I'd carry a copy of the DOT rules for when the Lawe Enforcement pulled me over for over length limits.

 

[mmhouse]

Just hang them (some tie wire should work fine) underneath the vehicle and let them stick out 3' on the front and 5' on the rear.

 

[IDASHO]

You mean to say you dont know ANYONE with a pickup and rack that would lend you their truck for a hour?

 

[Torque1st]

I've done a little bit of research online, and the California laws (seem to) say it's all right to have a load ahead of the vehicle so long as it doesn't 'extend more than three feet beyond the foremost part of the front bumper.' For the rear, the code says 'the load shall not extend to the rear beyond the last point of support for a greater distance than that equal to two-thirds of the length of the wheelbase.'

Do they define this anywhere? Is the last point of support the rear axle, or the rear of the vehicle, or the last cross member of a rack? I would think it is the rear axle.

I only get:

93.5_______wheelbase
61.5 +_____2/3 wheelbase
24 +______approx front axle to bumper
36 +_______ahead of bumper
--------------------------
215 = total cargo length


I have a similar project coming up to carry some 16' lumber on my Ford Ranger.

I had my recent purchase of 1363# of 20 foot long steel rebar delivered.

 

[onewaydave]

I once towed a windmill tower, about 40', by strapping a trailer onto the base and a hitch onto the top. Essentially making a temporary 40' trailer.

 

[DIC]

Just hang them (some tie wire should work fine) underneath the vehicle and let them stick out 3' on the front and 5' on the rear.

I have long tubing under the vechicle many times......Works just fine.......

 

[PurdueSD]

Under the axles!

 

[Red05GT]

I have transported 21' sticks of pipe under a pickup before. I have taken along a
battery operated sawzall and a cut sheet and cut down my material at the supply house
before loading for easier transport. A bumper receiver on the front and rear with remov-
able rack risers would also work but with a short wheelbase vehicle you are going to be
pushing the DOT overhang limits. I guess the cost of a ticket or excessive expense to
self transport would make the suppliers delivery cost look pretty reasonable.

 

[Wingnut65]

+4 for under the vehicle. I've driven 3-hours across FL with PVC and conduit below a van. Just be sure to flag whatever you use.

jeff

 

[BPJOOP93]

I have also went under the truck. worked for me.

 

[Steve in Mi]

If I get a chance I'll ad a photo of telescopic square tube I use to lengthen my trailer tongues.

 

[Cardboard Man]

When I was reading your post the idea that popped into my head is the one illustrated by Boyd in post #3. Having the material above you makes you more aware of the load because you can see it, plus it doesn't interfere as much with maneuvering in traffic. Strapping a long load under a vehicle as short as yours, although quicker and requiring less, if any, fabrication might be less desirable as you tend to forget it's there (especially if you're not used to doing it). As stated above, building a simple overhead rack is well within your abilities and, IMO, the safest choice.

 

[jamesemery728]

I would fab something removable to attach to the front and rear bumpers but don't forget to allow for the slap factor if you are carrying something flexible. If it is something long and light you can just hang it over the passenger side. There should be plenty of tie points under the hood and in the back on the roll cage or other points you could tie a rope.

 

[Torque1st]

It would not be too hard to extend the tongue out on one of those small Harbor Freight trailers with a cross piece near the front of the new tongue far enough to haul light loads of 20' stock. I wish my neighbor still had his and I would borrow it. Clamp an extension on from 2" pipe with some U-Bolts. Bolt on a crosspiece and hitch. Extend out the light harness. Add a couple safety chains and go...

With a very long tongue and wheelbase it would be real easy to back around with. Unbolt the fabricated parts and store between uses.

 

[wormwood]

I take it you will likely do projects like this in the future as well? AND that you will often move shorter loads?

What I would do is build a rack that is the length of your jeep.

I would also build a longer frame that can quickly bolt to the jeep length rack when you need to carry really long stuff.

That way you would have the convenient size frame for day to day hauling and the option of the longer frame when needed.

In fact, you could build other accessory bolt-on frames frames for special hauling like plywood or laddrers etc.

 

[paranoid56]

you have a jeep, just strap it to the cage and call it a day. i straped mine to my cage and then put a strap over the front to the bumper and was fine. this was with 5 sticks of 1.75 dom

 

[JamieK]

If you do end up with a long length hanging off the rear, get a friend to follow you. At least, they will be aware of whats ahead of them.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Thanks, guys. It would be convenient to have something I could bolt on for the times I need to pick steel up. But making something with a 20' spine is going to pose a storage problem on my tiny piece of property.

I think the under-the-undercarriage idea is kind of genius. Even with the lifted Jeep, I think I'd have to be careful about concrete aprons or sudden uphill sections of roadway. I also think it would attract too much attention from the local authorities.

I looked at some ladder racks, and think I'll end up building something along the lines of what Boyd suggests. I found this with a little searching last night:

This rack doesn't use anything other than those straps (and the rigidity of the steel itself) for fore-aft movement. If I tie mine into the cage, I think I can make one that's considerably stronger than the one in the picture (although it's admittedly more flexible, allowing for the spare and the hard top).

Some sort of heavy duty 'sock' up front, with a cable running back to the cage could reduce the liklihood of a panic-stop-induced forward slide (although using ratcheting straps will be the main line of defense against that).

Torque1st, my reading of the longer version of the code convinced me that the rear extension is measured from the back edge of the rear bumper.

If you do end up with a long length hanging off the rear, get a friend to follow you. At least, they will be aware of whats ahead of them.

That's a good idea.

 

[ephotrod]

If you look at smaller p/u they have ladder racks that fit in the bed pockets and one that bolts the the bumper. You can fab up some square tubing welded to a mounting plate that you can bolt to three locations on the jeep. I.E. back bumper just before the rear fender and front bumper. When you need to transport an item you stick your "Y" racks in the three locations and pin them in and your off. If you need clarification on my idea just let me know.
Josh

 

[mmhouse]

Hey Jack. If you hang them underneath you don't need to worry about the overhang rules because there is none...it's an underhang!

 

[brockstar]

Jack,

Here in Ohio, you can rent a flat bed truck from Home Depot for $20 an hour. I know you'd hate the idea of renting, but depending on the distance from your supplier to your house, it might be plausible.

OTOH, Uhaul rents 20' trucks fairly cheaply. Assuming the mileage wouldn't be too much.

Again, I know this runs counter to your renting and $$ ideals, but it may get you working on your other projects more quickly!

 

[koditten]

I read the post quickly. were you buying angle steel or rectangular or square tube? That comes in 24 foot lengths, not 20 foot.

 

[Jack Olsen]

My (usual) vendor sells 20' lengths of 1/2", 5/8" and 1" square tubing. They might also sell 24' lengths, but I've always bought 20s. They only charge me .10 for a cut, but the two projects I'm doing next will need full lengths. I don't want to have to cut them and then weld them back, especially since I'll be bending them.

 

[tcianci]

Jack I must be reading the law wrong or there must be a feature of the vehicle that can be defined as the last support. Say for instance, you built a rack, and the last support of that rack was 3 feet beyond the rear bumper with the supports angled back to the bumper so, technically the calculation for the total length would apply using the wheelbase numbers and applying them form the position of that last support. That pretty much frees you up to do anything you want. But because you're in California (land of laws) and I'm pretty simple minded, I'm guessing I couldn't be more wrong.

The real question for me is why you would even care? I guess I might be a little too much of a cowboy or something. I'd just get the stuff on the truck somehow and head home. Screw'em if they can't take a joke. It's not like you're hauling this stuff on a daily basis or making a living doing it. If compliance with the regs has really got you worried, I don't know about CA but around here you can get a good sized 1 ton flatbed PU from Depot for 19 bucks for the first 75 minutes. You probably can't build a rack for 19 bucks but knowing how you make stuff if you were to craft something up it would be a work of art

 

[nate379]

Do they deliver? The yard I used to buy steel from did. They wouldn't make a trip out for a single piece of angle iron, but if they were already dropping stuff off to someone else, it wasn't a problem.

Even with a truck a 20ft stick is a pain. If I really need it to be full length I just bring my trailer along.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

Maybe some of these (bad) photos will help with attachment details.

Seems like a windshield frame front mount would be less hassle to build/install than putting in a front receiver hitch under the bumper. But I have no iea what existing holes you may have on the CJ windshield frame. Still you MIGHT have a use for a front receiver. Lots of boats guys use them for backing (fronting?) boats to launch.

<a href="http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/DaninPasadena/Garage%20Photos/?action=view&current=greenjeepphotoshoped.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/DaninPasadena/Garage%20Photos/greenjeepphotoshoped.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/DaninPasadena/Garage%20Photos/My%20Garage/?action=view&current=mirror-orption-for-rack.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/DaninPasadena/Garage%20Photos/My%20Garage/mirror-orption-for-rack.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/DaninPasadena/Garage%20Photos/My%20Garage/?action=view&current=frontonjk.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/DaninPasadena/Garage%20Photos/My%20Garage/frontonjk.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

[Pointbock]

hitch extender in the back, drop the windshield, ratchet straps

use a couple of old towels/blankets to keep from scratching things up, and keep it under 100

 

[ErickForest]

Couldn't you rent a trailer for what it would cost to build something to haul it home on your Jeep. I have learned that sometimes it is easier, quicker and sometimes cheaper to buy or rent something than it would be to build yourself.

 

[Nuts]

I'm with Pointbock above, load the iron between the seats.
Lower center of gravity and you can see what is going on,
if there's a problem. A riser with a cross bar attached
from receiver hitches on both bumpers should do for spacing.


Every time I see items strapped under a vehicle I hear dueling banjos.
Now before ya'll get pissed, I've done it myself, and after that
little episode involving some 20' missiles. never again.

Nuts

 

[mopar4wd]

I would think about going with the canoe rack style pic you found. Easy to fab plus easy to make it quick release. As far as the law is concerned as long as it looks secure my experience is that law enforcement won't get to picky. I bought a used sail boat mast about an hour and half from my house a few years ago and strapped the 22' piece of aluminum to the factory roof racks of my cherokee and tied the ends back to the bumpers, no problems. As far as securing the load I would strap to the racks then strap the ends front and back. A friend of mines father used to haul long pieces of pipe and conduit on top of his ranger , he made two parachute like pieces of canvas with 5 or 6 lines leading back to a ring. He would then place the "parachute" over the pipe and tie it back to the rack preventing fore aft movement.

 

[D.J.]

Jack, I don't like the underhang method but if you do be sure to buy the cheap trailer ball alignment balls at harbor freight and attach them to front and rear so you don't have a brain fart (like I probally would) and forget you have the steel hauling there and mount someones expensive car with it! When hauling over length I always want it up high so I don't forget it's there, but maybe thats just me. Good luck and be sure to keep us aprised of your project. Thanks D.J.
________
Big **** Vid

 

[Torque1st]

The 20' trailer extension from 2" pipe I mentioned could be accomplished with 2 or more pieces screwed together. They can't unscrew unless you plan on flipping either vehicle multiple times.

I know what you mean about tiny properties and every square foot being precious out in LA. I assume anything you make will disassemble into an easy to store package.

What are you making? A revolve for a stage?

 

[35mastr]

Jack,Bolt another hitch receiver to the front bumper and make up a set like the ones Boyd posted. Easy to store and quick to mount and dismount.

 

[Krusty]

Pretty much any of these ideas would work, but how about two or three short pieces of 4" PVC pipe padded out aganist the Jeep and strapped on at fendertop level on the passenger side. You could even angle them upward toward the back @ the roll cage so the pipe isn't able to slide out (to the rear, at least).

Krusty

 

[spongerich]

I brought a bunch of 12' drywall home on my Jeep many years ago. I ended up buying 4 12' 2x4's, laying them down on top and secured the whole thing with some cargo straps.

With a front bumper mounted support, 20' steel should be no problem.

 

[kbs2244]

Check out some sporting goods sites.
You can get canoe carriers for jeeps that you could buy or copy.
Maybe, in your area, check out surf board carriers?