Sewer line replacement tips

[rshimizu12]

Thinking of replacing the sewer line in the front yard...? Chances are I will dig it up and have a plumber friend help me replace the pipe possibly...? I had the utilities & pipes locations identified...? I have been told that they use the same trench for the utilities. So I am guessing is that I would have to dig next to the sewer line to avoid hitting the utilities. I have considered renting a FLIR camera to find the precise location of the utilities. The soil is clay so I have been told that it is hard to use a electric jackhammer. I have also considered renting a small excavator or using trencher. I have heard that the trenches are probably 5 feet deep when it reaches sidewalk. The downside of a trencher is that it only goes 48" deep. I would also have someone checking to see that there I am not hitting the utility as well.

 

[Lynden]

Have you checked into the different types of trenchless sewer line replacement? I had my sewer service line replaced a few years ago by a contractor who used the pipe bursting method.

"Pipe bursting is a method of repairing or replacing sewer lines without digging trenches in the ground. It is not the only trenchless method, but it is one of the most popular options that avoids digging up the yard."

pipe bursting sewer line replacement

pipe bursting method

 

[Shiftless]

Have you checked into the different types of trenchless sewer line replacement? I had my sewer service line replaced a few years ago by a contractor who used the pipe bursting method.

"Pipe bursting is a method of repairing or replacing sewer lines without digging trenches in the ground. It is not the only trenchless method, but it is one of the most popular options that avoids digging up the yard."

pipe bursting sewer line replacement

pipe bursting method

That’s what we did when we had sewer problems. Plus it’s less than one whole day from start to finish.

 

[HoosierMark]

I do a lot of do it yourself things but this sure sounds like one I would pass on. The type of soil, the presence of utility lines, getting a plumber to help, etc all point me in the direction that if I was going to do a full replacement I would hire it out. This sounds like a complex project. If you can do this cheaply perhaps you should change professions and do it for a living. There are reasons that plumbers get paid a lot and it is just not for their labor, there is a lot of knowledge needed to do something like this. I have taken a house apart and moved it, renovated numerous apartments etc etc, some things are almost pure labor, some are technical that I wished I had hired people to do. I would hire this one done, especially since I need to use the bathroom every day. Just my opinion.

 

[CraigStu]

Wife and I just fixed the 15ft pvc pipe to our septic tank 3 weeks ago using a rented mini-excavator. I had a blast running the M-E and did a few other projects w/ it the same weekend. I used the M-E to dig along the side of the pipe and only had to do the last 2ft at the tank by hand to expose the crack and fix it. But as soon as I read the line about other utilities in the same ditch, I figured maybe a diy isn't a good idea. I don't think you can assume that the other utilities are positioned exactly under, to one side, or whatever, in relation to the pipe for the entire length. So you are digging along, missing the utilities and suddenly they come over to the side where your bucket is.

 

[428PI]

Why are you going to replace it? I had a leak under a cement porch at a rubber boot and only leaked back into basement when wife would do laundry and some water would run into basement through another water line opening. They were able to "punch" a sewer line from the basement and under the cement porch and 150 ft to lagoon. Only 2 small holes to make for equipment. The cost was the same though as running a completely new sewer line around the other side of house but the yard would have been tore up. Cost was 5k. I did that 5 years ago and I was updating our insurance and found out I had a 35 dollar year rider on policy that covered sewer lines and they paid me 5k recently-yea!!!!
.

 

[mikepelchy]

When utilities are marked, they are allowed to be off by up to 2ft in either direction, so basically you have a 4ft window that the utility could be in. I would agree with the others that if the utilities are that close together then it is probably a job best suited for a pro just due to insurance purposes.

 

[nadogail]

I would look into the possibility of having a epoxy liner installed in the line. This cab be considered only after a through inspection with a camera.

 

[rlitman]

...have considered renting a FLIR camera to find the precise location of the utilities...

A thermal imager isn't going to show you squat. Don't waste your time with it. I tried once with mine to locate a leaking irrigation line that was barely 12" under pavement, and the closest spot I could find was over 6' from the leak. Any deeper, and I wouldn't have found anything.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

FLIR camera probably won't be of any use at all. Julie is within 2-3 ft and does not locate any lines owned by property owner, just those that belong to utility companies and munucipalities. I'd pay someone to locate all of the utilities, they can get more accurate.

 

[manwithtools]

Talk to anyone who regularly does utility work and what the dependability is of the utility marking services and they will tell you it's very poor. This is not something you want to DIY IMHO. I see you are in San Diego, what part out of curiosity. I'm wondering if this is even work a homeowner is allowed to do without permitting, etc.? I'd really leave this to the pro's. I like that pipe bursting method linked to in post #2

 

[nitroracer20]

I replaced mine after i kept getting a recurring sink hole. Plan ahead, as said - you need to use the bathroom! Its not rocket science by any means. Maintain proper pitch and soil compaction.

get a mini excavator or be ready to work hard. Me and 2 other people dug the entire thing by hand.

mine went from cast iron, to some funky ceramic type pipe, back to cast. Make sure all your replacement pipe and fittings are the proper diameter to mate with existing, or your without a bathroom!

 

[sweetk30]

After watching the HELL a friend just went threw hooking up city sewer to a new building and a house converted to city sewer i can say do your research and make sure you have backup plan b... c... d... e....

He was told 11ft down to the MAIN LINE but found out it was 14ft down and clay tile incased in cement for support in the sandy dirt . Then no port to hook to .

Called in county sewer guys and they scopped the main and found both ports . And the 1st was over 100ft away from were they first said .

All in he is out CRAZY money for there screwup of info to him .

 

[rshimizu12]

Digging will probably be the biggest issue. If I use a excavator then then I would have someone else probing and looking for the utility lines.

 

[walta]

To me it seems unlikely they stacked different pipes in the same trench.

My local codes require water and sewer separated by several feet and I have not seen electric or phone over the sewer.

When I had my sewer dug it was about 3 feet deep went thru an old septic tank I did not know was there and was at 18 feet by the time it got to the main. One can hope it will be an easy job but generally more often than not I get a surprise or two.

That county required the work be done by a licensed contractor and inspected by the county.

A 5 foot deep hole is not a joke people have die when the wall collapse unexpectedly

Walta

 

[rburke65]

There will be an unbelievable amount of dirt coming out of that hole. Rent the M-E!

 

[rshimizu12]

What type of is used when sewer pipe goes under the sidewalk. Or are those the laterals......?

 

[Lynden]

What type of is used when sewer pipe goes under the sidewalk. Or are those the laterals......?

The sewer line that extends from a house to the public sewer line is called a sewer lateral. Sewer laterals are generally constructed using the same type of pipe for their entire length.

Is the public sewer line located in the street in front of your house? Does your sewer lateral need to be replaced just under the front yard or all the way to the public sewer line? How many feet will you be trenching?

 

[Sumboodie]

I replaced mine after i kept getting a recurring sink hole. Plan ahead, as said - you need to use the bathroom! Its not rocket science by any means. Maintain proper pitch and soil compaction.

get a mini excavator or be ready to work hard. Me and 2 other people dug the entire thing by hand.

mine went from cast iron, to some funky ceramic type pipe, back to cast. Make sure all your replacement pipe and fittings are the proper diameter to mate with existing, or your without a bathroom!

Wow that's shallow!

 

[rshimizu12]

The sewer line that extends from a house to the public sewer line is called a sewer lateral. Sewer laterals are generally constructed using the same type of pipe for their entire length.

Is the public sewer line located in the street in front of your house? Does your sewer lateral need to be replaced just under the front yard or all the way to the public sewer line? How many feet will you be trenching?

Yes the sewer line is in the front of my house. I believe sewer line is around 30 feet.

 

[Mikeske]

Man I am glad that I don't have that type of issue with a sewer line. My septic tank is 12 foot from the back of my home (which is code here) and easily accessible even with a 8' full length deck across the back of my home.

 

[FredWanaker]

Lots of San Diego is mostly rock aggregate, mudstone, and sandstone, covered in a thin layer of top soil, sandy soil, and calechi. Lots of rock, big ones, little ones. To dig a hole 2' wide for a plant and 2' deep you start with a 6' wide hole and move in the direction of the least rocks.

 

[rd65]

First, where are you responsible to? Your property line or all the way to the main? Different areas have different rules. Dont go climbing down into some 3'+ trench without shoring, it is too easy to die that way. We use green sewer pipe at the City. We went from property line to the main. We would go from homeowner 4" lateral (side sewer, s/s) to 6" w/ clean out then down stand pipe to the main. All you need is a bit of fall in the pipe then standpipe to main. We never told homeowner they could not use water/drains, just let it go into the hole. Hip boots, raingear, and hepatitus shots and you're good to go.

 

[no704]

Had mine done bout 10 years ago. Plumber friend who’s up @ 6am. Asks are you ready? For what? Replace the sewer. No, let me take a shower and have a coffee! He left and returns with a couple Mexican gents a half hour later. Shows them where to dig, we go out for breakfast, then to the plumbers supply. Get back at lunch with a pizza for the guys. Trench is open, plumbing buddy jumps in lays new pipe in 15 min. Tells the Gus to fill it back up. We go to lunch and have a couple beers. Pick up a 12 pack and $100 cash for each of the two guys. Give them a ride back. Whole deal done for $600 in one day!

 

[rshimizu12]

First, where are you responsible to? Your property line or all the way to the main? Different areas have different rules. Dont go climbing down into some 3'+ trench without shoring, it is too easy to die that way. We use green sewer pipe at the City. We went from property line to the main. We would go from homeowner 4" lateral (side sewer, s/s) to 6" w/ clean out then down stand pipe to the main. All you need is a bit of fall in the pipe then standpipe to main. We never told homeowner they could not use water/drains, just let it go into the hole. Hip boots, raingear, and hepatitus shots and you're good to go.

What is best way to shore walls. Since the trench is not to deep screw jacks seem the best way

 

[nitroracer20]

Osha - 5’ or greater generally requires shoring. You dont know how deep your line is anyways.

If you need to purchase shoring material to complete the job, your better subbing the job out. That could break the cost savings.

start digging. If conditions are unfavorable, sub it out - all you wasted was some time.

 

[greenskeeper]

best of luck, probably going to be a ****** job either way.

 

[75gmck25]

A friend in the neighborhood did this about two months ago and it turned into quite a job. Some observations:

- Sewer line is below the level of the basement floor, so its about 8-10 feet down from ground level. That required an excavator and there was a huge pile of dirt.
- Trench is deep, so you need shoring. He built his with 3/4" plywood and 2x4's for bracing. It takes quite a bit of plywood to shore up a trench that is about 25 feet long and 8 feet tall. City also required water/silt dams around everything to prevent further erosion.
- Needed a special permit to break up the city-maintained sidewalk and cross over to the street connection. Inspector came by and initially couldn't find the record of the permit - very unpleasant!
- Going under the sidewalk required special care because the NG supply lines run parallel to the sidewalk, about 3-4 feet under the ground. There was a protective sleeve, but it still required hand digging to avoid any damage.
- Water supply line was in the same trench, but a little off to the side. Didn't puncture the line, but after excavation it broke loose from the city meter end, probably because it was old and no longer had support. Took a while to find the right parts to restore the connection.
- Bottom of the trench was lower than the ground water level, so the bottom 6-8" kept filling in with water. This wet, narrow trench was not a fun work area to measure PVC pipe, make cuts, glue pipe, etc.
- After the trench was filled in they had to pour cement to restore the sidewalk.

Results were great and everything passed inspection.