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Putting foam on gravel for concrete slab, slight rises and falls from odd rocks, concern?

haugy

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I'm sure I'm overthinking this, but wanted to be sure.
I've got 3/4" rock base for my slab. Vapor barrier, and then 2" XPS foam. But in a few places the boards aren't dead flat because of an irregular rock underneath. They all flatten out when you walk on them, but still.

Am I overthinking this? I'm thinking the weight of the rebar and PEX, and then the concrete will push everything nice and flat, but any concerns during pouring? I'm taping down some of the higher rising ones to make sure one piece of foam doesn't shift over on top of another one, but other than that it's reasonably flat, just not brand new wood floor flat.
 
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benjamintmiller

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The concrete will push everything down nice and flat, but I would put the vapor barrier on top of the foam for two reasons: to prevent 'iceberging', where the foam panels can float, and to keep the foam from absorbing water during the pour that will then need to dry upward.
 

benjamintmiller

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There are members on here who know far more than me about concrete and I'm sure they'll chime in. I know that BSC recommends the polyethylene go over the top of the insulation and that's what I did for my building.

From https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy:

Do not, and I repeat, do not locate the polyethylene under the insulation as it will keep the insulation wet. Trust me on this – or go back and read “BSI-003: Concrete Floor Problems.”
 
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haugy

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Is the 3/4" rock compacted? If so I wouldn't expect any sticking up a noticeable amount.
It is, just looks like between my boots and my kids throwing rocks a few got "stacked" a little higher than another. All it takes is a little pebble to make something solid adjust out an inch or two. So when you walk across the foam, you get the occasional dip and rise from the foam. I'm figuring once I put rebar down the weight should flatten it out nicely.

I am curious about the vapor barrier debate. I've always been told to put the VB under the foam.
 

yeldogt

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Depending on the manufacturer ..... you will see it done both ways.

I tend to be in the heavy poly down first camp -- foam on top. My base layer is typically good -- have lifted an XPS sheet after having it down for a while and the panel spreads out the load. Have never seen damage on the poly.


The GBA people say to staple the pex to the foam though the poly -- they say all the holes will not cause a problem. They also want the pex in the middle of the pour .... How do you pull that off?

I put the polly down and bring it up the sides -- overlap and tape. Put down the XPS -- tape the seams. I normally use rebar and zip tie the pex to the grid.

My theory is the tape on the foam will provide enough water protection for the pour -- Not that I think it's a huge deal. But, taping the foam joints does make the whole assemble more stable and people will be walking all over it.

I have never had this water retention issue -- you are going to heat it ?
 

Git

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Have your read through this by 'LLWillysfan'. Hopefully he will weigh in or perhaps shoot him a message? (it doesn't look like he specifically addresses foam insulation and where to place the vapor barrier)

 

ConCretin

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There has been a debate for years about placement of the vapor barrier. The vapor barrier itself will perform it's function as long as it's somewhere between the soil and the concrete.

The debate revolves around bleed water from the concrete. A secondary characteristic of vapor barriers are that they block or trap bleed water. Placing the vapor barrier directly under the slab blocks bleed water from going anywhere but up, which can cause surface problems. Placing the vapor barrier under the insulation gives bleed water somewhere to go but extends the amount of time it takes for the slab to 'dry out'. This can cause problems with adhered floor coverings. We deal with architects and engineers all the time with different theories and solutions.

I have come to the following conclusion. Limit the water in your concrete and bleed water isn't much of a concern to begin with. The advent of water reducing admixtures has limited the amount of bleed water that occurs. It's not uncommon not to see bleed water even when pouring directly on vapor barrier.

Secondly, I like the vapor barrier to be protected from damage and placing it under the insulation does that. What little bleed water finds it way into the voids in the insulation will work it's way out over time.

Finally, I like stapling the radiant tube directly to the insulation and unlike a previous poster, I don't want hundreds of holes in my vapor barrier. I want the tubing under my reinforcing to protect it from saw cuts and the inevitable tapcon screw.

My sequence is vapor barrier, insulation, radiant and reinforcing but there really isn't a right or wrong answer here.
 

Ryan

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Just a reminder… we are talking about gravel and foam. No one (in their right mind) argues over gravel…. And foam….
 

yeldogt

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I have to go with Building Science Coyp people on the vapor barrier. Have met and talked to Joe (BSC founder) and they know their stuff.
Except -- they change what they say over time. There is no prefect way -- there are competing forces at work
 

yeldogt

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Is it a bad thing that people learn new stuff and change guidance? I would hope that is what would happen
My point is they say things with such authority --- often they are putting more importance on something else. The best way is to explain the failure points with various systems and see how that fits into what conditions you have
 

yeldogt

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There has been a debate for years about placement of the vapor barrier. The vapor barrier itself will perform it's function as long as it's somewhere between the soil and the concrete.

The debate revolves around bleed water from the concrete. A secondary characteristic of vapor barriers are that they block or trap bleed water. Placing the vapor barrier directly under the slab blocks bleed water from going anywhere but up, which can cause surface problems. Placing the vapor barrier under the insulation gives bleed water somewhere to go but extends the amount of time it takes for the slab to 'dry out'. This can cause problems with adhered floor coverings. We deal with architects and engineers all the time with different theories and solutions.

I have come to the following conclusion. Limit the water in your concrete and bleed water isn't much of a concern to begin with. The advent of water reducing admixtures has limited the amount of bleed water that occurs. It's not uncommon not to see bleed water even when pouring directly on vapor barrier.

Secondly, I like the vapor barrier to be protected from damage and placing it under the insulation does that. What little bleed water finds it way into the voids in the insulation will work it's way out over time.

Finally, I like stapling the radiant tube directly to the insulation and unlike a previous poster, I don't want hundreds of holes in my vapor barrier. I want the tubing under my reinforcing to protect it from saw cuts and the inevitable tapcon screw.

My sequence is vapor barrier, insulation, radiant and reinforcing but there really isn't a right or wrong answer here.
I was like "what???" when I first was reading "just staple through the plastic into the foam" .

In my word the person doing the foam and set up for the PEX .. may not be the same person as the PEX ... and ... it's not going to be the Concrete guy. In a perfect world with one contractor doing it all -- being very careful .. maybe. I can't comment on how well the concrete will seal around all the holes ..... we all know water will find its way around the smallest hole. Plus -- I have seen the plastic damaged by the concrete guys.

I don't have to tell you ..... when building properly there should be no water hitting the underside of the slab. I like using a heavy VB under it all for Radon .... I like having the knowledge that I have the unbroken barrier
 

Northislander

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Under the slab is the poly a "ground seal" or a "vapor barrier" I like to think ground seal and as such i feel under insulation where it is safest from damage so it can best do its job.
 

NUTTSGT

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If I was putting foam down before the concrete, I would use smaller than 3/4" stone. I would use 411s as final grade, wet and compact to make it hard and flat the concrete itself.

Granted if you are doing your own, you work on your time and to your terms.
 
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billconner

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I suspect it doesn't matter a lot. Garage being built next door used a foam panel made with "knobs" to be hold PEX as well as "chairs" molded in for reinforcing. Very neat pex layout.
 

ScaldedDog

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I'm sure I'm overthinking this, but wanted to be sure.
I've got 3/4" rock base for my slab. Vapor barrier, and then 2" XPS foam. But in a few places the boards aren't dead flat because of an irregular rock underneath. They all flatten out when you walk on them, but still.

Am I overthinking this? I'm thinking the weight of the rebar and PEX, and then the concrete will push everything nice and flat, but any concerns during pouring? I'm taping down some of the higher rising ones to make sure one piece of foam doesn't shift over on top of another one, but other than that it's reasonably flat, just not brand new wood floor flat.

If that foam moves, that means there is space between the underlying gravel and foam, and the concrete above that space will crack. Repeatedly, and forever. I made the mistake of thinking, "Oh, the concrete and rebar is heavy, and will flatten it out". No, it won't. I owned that place for another dozen years, and that area never stopped developing new cracks. I had the surface of it redone, and that new surface cracked. Again, and again.

Fix it now, or lament that you didn't later.

Mark
 

Juiced06GTO

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I did 2" foam screwed to the inside of the grade boards down about 14", then filled the barn with compacted 3/4 stone, leveled that leaving me 7" to finished grade, then did 15mil stego wrap taped all seams and ran it up the walls, then 2" foam over the vapor barrier, taped all seams, then stapled my pex tubing direct to the foam, then laid mesh over the top of the pex. There were a few areas where you could feel the foam not sitting perfectly flat, but light weight on it kept it flat to the ground so I wasn't worried about it. Honestly with the tools I had available to me to grade it out I don't thinkI could have gotten it much flatter. A dozer with 6 way blade and laser set up probably would have done better, but that was out of my grasp for equipment!

I had no issues with bleed water and spoke to my concrete guy before hand and this was his preferred method as well. He also likes to keep the pex low to protect it and the added benefit is that it holds the mesh up off the bottom of the slab. You can check out my build thread for how it came out and details that went along with it. Make sure you pressurize the system with air in case it gets punctured during the pour so you can fix it.
 

mike93lx

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I did 2" foam screwed to the inside of the grade boards down about 14", then filled the barn with compacted 3/4 stone, leveled that leaving me 7" to finished grade, then did 15mil stego wrap taped all seams and ran it up the walls, then 2" foam over the vapor barrier, taped all seams, then stapled my pex tubing direct to the foam, then laid mesh over the top of the pex. There were a few areas where you could feel the foam not sitting perfectly flat, but light weight on it kept it flat to the ground so I wasn't worried about it. Honestly with the tools I had available to me to grade it out I don't thinkI could have gotten it much flatter. A dozer with 6 way blade and laser set up probably would have done better, but that was out of my grasp for equipment!

I had no issues with bleed water and spoke to my concrete guy before hand and this was his preferred method as well. He also likes to keep the pex low to protect it and the added benefit is that it holds the mesh up off the bottom of the slab. You can check out my build thread for how it came out and details that went along with it. Make sure you pressurize the system with air in case it gets punctured during the pour so you can fix it.
Curious, if a pex line got punctured in the pour, what would you have done to fix it? Did you have crimper and fittings on hand and would you even be able to get the tubing high enough to repair? I imagine that would add a hell of a lot of stress to a hectic part of the project!
 

Juiced06GTO

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Honestly, it would have been a shi*t show. I didn't have the stuff to fix it, but I would have at least been able to identify where it was, cut the conc out afterwards, repaired the line, then repoured the area that had to come out for repair. If it isn't pressurized and gets punctured you will never know where it is, so fixing it would never happen at that point. That being said the pex is pretty resilient so I wasn't too concerned and being at the bottom of the pour I wasn't worried about the soft cut saw hitting it either.
 

Jwallace1

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Curious, if a pex line got punctured in the pour, what would you have done to fix it? Did you have crimper and fittings on hand and would you even be able to get the tubing high enough to repair? I imagine that would add a hell of a lot of stress to a hectic part of the project!
when i did mine i had it pressurized to like 40lbs so i would have seen the bubbles and had crimpers and unions on hand to do a quick fix if i needed to, i made sure i reminded the guys doing the pour to be mindful of the tubing but pex is pretty tuff stuff also.
 

walrus

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Isn't the foam a vapor barrier, I realize it isn't one continuous sheet but water vapor coming up thru the floor in my shop doesn't seem to be an issue. I get far more issues bringing in a wet or snow covered vehicle.
 

haveissues

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I would make sure there are no sudden changes in height and get it all within 1/2" or so and you will be fine. I also did as you-rock-barrier-foam-rebar. If I put the barrier on top of the foam it would have been destroyed by the time I was done with the rebar and pex.
 

billconner

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Depending on foam, perm rating varies. One manufacture says their 2" XPS has a perm rating around 0.6 . A good vapor barrier should be near 0.1 .
 

Firebrick43

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I would make sure there are no sudden changes in height and get it all within 1/2" or so and you will be fine. I also did as you-rock-barrier-foam-rebar. If I put the barrier on top of the foam it would have been destroyed by the time I was done with the rebar and pex.
Stegowrap is strong enough to stand up to it.

full


I have used it multiple places with no issues tearing it up. Its strong
 

ConCretin

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There are many factors to determining what type of membrane is needed under a slab. The first consideration is climate. If the soils under your slab are dry, there is obviously less moisture to control.

The second consideration is application. While is always desirable to limit moisture intrusion into a structure, a vapor barrier is really only necessary if you are installing moisture sensitive floor coverings. Poly with taped seams and polyethylene sheeting are vapor retarders, which restrict but do not stop water vapor transmission. A true vapor barrier is going to have a permeance close to 0. Stegowrap for example has a permanence of .008.

The final consideration is resistance to damage. Holes poked in your membrane will lessen or even eliminate it's effectiveness. A vapor barrier requires special tape at seams and penetrations to be effective. 6 or 10 mil poly will not stand up if exposed to construction traffic and is inevitably damaged. The taped seams between sheets of insulation often fail under the trashing of a finishing crew. A product like Stego is much more durable unless of course you poke it full of staple holes as shown above....

Just kidding FireBrick 43. While it's not a generally accepted method, I doubt it would ever create a noticeable issue.
 

jrsavoie

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Then you have nothing to compare it to. Bubble insulation will not/can not stay inflated for any period of time. Even if it does the rvalues they advertise are absolute lies.
And just what if you put it over or under 1-1/2" R- Control EPS with termiticide in it?

You have no idea what kind of bubblewrap I used. It had the itty bitty tiny bubbles and was designed specifically to go under concrete.

I would do it the exact same way again. And will if I get time and money to do the shed. Except #5 bar and thicker floor. And probably put the vapor barrier under the foam.

6 bag mix with fiber, 10 ga wire mats. Pex clipped to the wire mats. #4 Rebar on 3 foot centers.


People use blue and pink board without realizing it ***** up water and is worthless when wet.
 

billconner

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What does bubble wrap do that stegowrap doesn't? Just curious.

I have to say when this came up I searched for other opinions and except for those who make it or sell it, no one said good things. I was amused that some of these included radiant coatings which can't possibly work without adjacent airspace.
 

Firebrick43

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And just what if you put it over or under 1-1/2" R- Control EPS with termiticide in it?

You have no idea what kind of bubblewrap I used. It had the itty bitty tiny bubbles and was designed specifically to go under concrete.

I would do it the exact same way again. And will if I get time and money to do the shed. Except #5 bar and thicker floor. And probably put the vapor barrier under the foam.

6 bag mix with fiber, 10 ga wire mats. Pex clipped to the wire mats. #4 Rebar on 3 foot centers.


People use blue and pink board without realizing it ***** up water and is worthless when wet.
Most plastics will transmit air and water vs osmosis. The rate depends greatly on thickness and type of plastic but it happens.

Bubble wraps eventually will not have air in them no matter what sizes bubbles or thickness of plastic. Bubble wraps with weight on them will do it faster.

Bubble wrap will provide a barrier, but other cheaper products will to, why put it over foam?

As for xps vs eps, there is ONE(and only ONE) study, where in Minnesota they burred foam at 6 feet depth. Unfortunately I have never been able to find the conditions it was installed in. IE the brand, gravel and drainage underneath, and soil types.

XPS is usually used as EPS is hard to find high psi ratings to use under foundations and slabs. I can not find it at any of my local yards.

Second, as your post alluded to, EPS has low damage resistance and termites can burrow in it much easier, hence your uses of termicides with long term ones are not available anymore.

Third, The conditions were not scientific, nor do they make sense. Both types of foams transmit water (as they are plastics) but XPS according to ASTM 272 test transmits much less. XPS is .1 percent vs 4 percent for eps. This makes sense as the perm rating of XPS is much lower than EPS So why did one example act this way? XPS is specifically used for life boats for its resistance to water absorption, and I have seen many docks floating on xps foam for years without sinking.

Fourth. Unlike bubble insulations that will loose 100 percent of their overstated R value insulation, if we are to believe that every install will perform like that single 15 year test, then the foam absorbed 18 percent h2o. 18 percent water absorption is hardly worthless. There is still a large value of insulation retained. Conversely the xps starts off with high insulation value to start with(5 R value). It does loose about 0.5 R Value over time if blown with Freon as it is replaced with air. EPS on the other hand is rather stable as its blown with air but the looser wall structure means most of it even after XPS has lost its freon(most isn't blown with freon now) its still about 0.5 R value higher than EPS. This is about a 11 percent greater R value per inch with XPS vs EPS. XPS R value is 5 new to 4.5 old with freon. EPS is 3.85-4. Only the graphite eps is 4.5-4.7 which I have not seen available yet.

Now the big "IF" is exactly how much did in just the one Minnesota results did the R value drop due to the 18 percent water absorption. I find it glaring that the EPS industry uses this specific water gain results of both but does not retest the R value itself. :headscrat

Note, I don't have a problem with EPS, Its still a good foam and has a good ROI. I have a large amount of it on my ICF house. I probably would have used it under my slab as well if a higher psi version was available as well at a cost savings over XPS. I just find that the one 15 year results are dubious at best. Was it a bad batch of XPS foam? There is an idiot working in every factory. Was it location specific, ie where they pulled the EPS was well drained and the xps was setting in a clay lined hole???? I would love to see more long term test in controlled conditions but alas it will take another decade or so probably to get them.
 

Firebrick43

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Just kidding FireBrick 43. While it's not a generally accepted method, I doubt it would ever create a noticeable issue.

I know, poking holes purposely is sort of ironic isn't. I actually don't have issues with ground water here, gravel below is 12 inches of #8 stone with 6 inch tile and sets next to a basement that the water level is not even an issue there.

The biggest reason for the stegowrap here is to block the water from excaping during cure and create a slip plane. I think a large portion of slabs cracking is differential curing causing the slab to curl, and then crack to relieve that stress. Also restrained slabs will crack as the shrink. Both my basement slab (28x50) and garage 28x30 remain crack free. Neither are reinforced excepts some hair pins in each corner.
They pulled away from the walls about a 1/4 inch on all sides so maybe a 1/2 inch over all shrinkage.

basement doesn't have holes poked in it, nor foam as its not heated. I purposely wanted it to be 62 ish year round.
 
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