Craftsman V Series Store availability?

[Fedwrench]

Greetings All:

Has anyone seen the new Craftsman V Series tools locally in a Lowes or an Ace Hardware?

I've ordered online from both sources but, haven't seen any V Series tools hanging on a rack or sitting on a shelf in either local stores.

I get it that many of you don't care about the new Craftsman V Series tools and that's ok. I was just curious if the V Series tools have hit a different area's stores.

Thanks for your time,

 

[Oil leak]

Yes. My local Ace in NE Indiana has some. Combination wrenches, Allen sockets, etc. Not a big selection but some. This Ace also carries a limited amount of Tekton tools.

 

[Lesserstore]

Craftsman said on their Instagram that they were only available online at Lowe's and in select Ace stores.

 

[Finance Guy]

Lowe's in West Houston was NOT carrying the Craftsman V-Series last weekend.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

Haven’t seen them at either place. Only been to one Ace in my area recently but they didn’t have them when I was there.

 

[Fedwrench]

Thanks for your responses

I guess it's online for now. I thought it was strange that Lowes didn't have any V series stuff on sale that I saw. ACE had some V Series items on sale but, it wasn't the two things that I'm looking for, the metric ratcheting combination wrench set and the metric X Tract type hex bit socket set.

 

[Briancapecoral]

I looked last time I was at Lowe’s a couple weeks ago. They didn‘t have any V Series.

 

[DAustin]

I need more tools like I need another hole in my head, but I still look a Lowe's every time I go. So far none have showed up.

 

[Kscardsfan]

The ace hardware closest to me sorta *****, the ones about 40 minutes to an hour away from here are pretty decent but seem to live for Chinese import no name tools on the shelves.

 

[lardy1]

Our semi-local (13 miles) Ace closed its doors. Lowes is a 40 mile drive. I'm no help.

 

[southernfriedcj]

Is V series USA made?

 

[Finance Guy]

Is V series USA made?

No, pro-caliber tools made in Taiwan.

 

[CHI_Tool&Die]

My Local Lowes is a total mess so they naturally didn’t have any. My Ace which is much better run isn’t carrying any in store but their tool inventory is deliberately kept low and locked up due to a recent increase of thefts.

 

[MarvinBerry]

No ace nearby in northern jersey... No V series at Lowe's either.

Geez that stuff seems kind of expensive for import tools... 40 bones for a set of hex keys?!

 

[Finance Guy]

Geez that stuff seems kind of expensive for import tools... 40 bones for a set of hex keys?!

Comes with the X-Tract (RBRT) design ... it's a fraction of the Proto or MAC cost.

 

[MarvinBerry]

Hate to ask but what's a set of proto keys run?

Got some eklind on my bench right now forget what I paid but it sure wasn't $40 for both SAE & metric together...

Dunno. Seems expensive for the craftsman label... just saying.

 

[KnurledNut]

Comes with the X-Tract (RBRT) design ... it's a fraction of the Proto or MAC cost.

Not RBRT, but certainly modified:

 

[Fedwrench]

Is V series USA made?

No. most of it is made in Taiwan. The screwdrivers, nut drivers, flush cut diagonals, and the pliers wrench are all made in France.

 

[ptgarcia]

None at my Lowes in southern California. They have the standard line of tools, which aren't half bad in their own right, but no V Series.

 

[m6z]

V-series stubby. Heavier and bulkier than my Carlyle. Backdrag is quite heavy as well. Going to return it.

Ordered it.

 

[KnurledNut]

Backdrag is quite heavy as well.

Same experience. Not impressed.

 

[Komet]

You guys should try adapting the heads to a drill and spinning the ratchet in 20 second bursts backwards and forwards. Did wonders for the backdrag on my Icon 1/4".

 

[PelicanPines]

V-series stubby. Heavier and bulkier than my Carlyle. Backdrag is quite heavy as well. Going to return it.

Ordered it.

Wow... I wanted them until you said the part about backdrag... I hate backdrag. Thanks for the warning.

 

[WWheeler]

Not RBRT, but certainly modified:

Not exactly RBRT but close and marketed for the same purpose, to be able to grab damaged/rounded internal hex fasteners, and Stanley owns Mac and Proto and Craftsman, so all based on the same engineering design for sure.

 

[darkzero]

I got these for Christmas. My brothers got them from Ace online. I still haven't used them yet. I love single diagonal knurling so I like the look of them. I'm happy to own them.

I don't like the thickness of the heads & that they are sealed (can't easily open them up for servicing). I don't own any decent 1/2" drive ratchets so it works out but I never use 1/2" ratchets anyway.

I would never buy these for myself though, they're too expensive for what they are IMO. Plus I'm over the Craftsman brand since Sears went downhill & I have absolutely no interest in SB&D Craftsman stuff.

BTW, still haven't seen any V-series stuff in stores at Lowes (not that I care ) and if IIRC they were released months before this thread was started.

 

[Jacobs976]

I don't like the thickness of the heads & that they are sealed (can't easily open them up for servicing). I don't own any decent 1/2" drive ratchets so it works out but I never use 1/2" ratchets anyway.

How are they supposed to be taken apart? Can't see any ring or screws so it almost looks like it's non-repairable.

It'd be fine as long as it has a decent lube in it that won't go off too quick but the ratchet I got last year, 1/2 standard craftsman beam everybody knows, came without even rust preventing oil from the factory so I'd be hesitant to buy one myself if it's not serviceable. Had to hit it with a brass brush before I could grease it because it had two big spots of rust formed inside.

Also head does look pretty thick but if it's got better engagement it might not be a bad thing. Granted engagement is all about the amount of teeth engaged instead of surface area of one or two nowadays. Of course I haven't looked into them either so I have no clue what's actually inside.

 

[KnurledNut]

You guys should try adapting the heads to a drill and spinning the ratchet in 20 second bursts backwards and forwards. Did wonders for the backdrag on my Icon 1/4".

Noticeable backdrag difference between a new Icon and this CMV. The ICON is pretty low out of the box.

I don't like the thickness of the heads & that they are sealed (can't easily open them up for servicing).

BTW, still haven't seen any V-series stuff in stores at Lowes (not that I care ) and if IIRC they were released months before this thread was started.

@m6z and @darkzero:
Yeah the head on the 1/4 is OBNOXIOUSLY thick.

@darkzero:
Yeah the GJ team leaked the new V-Series release before it was make public.
SBD didnt take to kindly to that and tried to lie about it (to me personally TWICE) saying it was discontinued.

How are they supposed to be taken apart? Can't see any ring or screws so it almost looks like it's non-repairable.

It'd be fine as long as it has a decent lube in it that won't go off too quick but the ratchet I got last year, 1/2 standard craftsman beam everybody knows, came without even rust preventing oil from the factory so I'd be hesitant to buy one myself if it's not serviceable. Had to hit it with a brass brush before I could grease it because it had two big spots of rust formed inside.

Also head does look pretty thick but if it's got better engagement it might not be a bad thing. Granted engagement is all about the amount of teeth engaged instead of surface area of one or two nowadays. Of course I haven't looked into them either so I have no clue what's actually inside.

They are supposedly “non-serviceable”.
But you know how that goes.

 

[lardy1]

They aren't on my radar at all but I must say......I like the looks of those handles.

 

[Jacobs976]

They are supposedly “non-serviceable”.
But you know how that goes.

In my experience it's been 50/50 on non-serviceable ratchets. Both were pin spanner plates, Cornwell Har-5 took the punch and vice method but Snap On L672B has smaller holes so the punches fail before breaking it loose.

Looks like the craftsman might take a pin spanner too, it'd make sense because the plate would make the head thicker too, so it all depends on if they made the pins small enough you'd need a special tool(pin spanner for a grinding wheel but different size pins and diameter plus maybe a different shape) to avoid breaking punches or destroying the plate if you go the punch against the sidewall of the pinhole method.

 

[darkzero]

How are they supposed to be taken apart? Can't see any ring or screws so it almost looks like it's non-repairable.

It'd be fine as long as it has a decent lube in it that won't go off too quick but the ratchet I got last year, 1/2 standard craftsman beam everybody knows, came without even rust preventing oil from the factory so I'd be hesitant to buy one myself if it's not serviceable. Had to hit it with a brass brush before I could grease it because it had two big spots of rust formed inside.

Also head does look pretty thick but if it's got better engagement it might not be a bad thing. Granted engagement is all about the amount of teeth engaged instead of surface area of one or two nowadays. Of course I haven't looked into them either so I have no clue what's actually inside.

That's a good question & I wondered how to to open them. They were assembled so there's gotta be a way to disassemble them. I'm not gonna try on mine though. Someday someone will discover how to & post it on YT.

But if SB&D thinks or claims that these don't ever need to serviced that BS. Grease will eventually dry up. Then again I have noticed with my fine tooth ratchets that they don't like grease so I use oil. But oil can eventually get gummed up too.

Or maybe they assembled them dry which I wouldn't be surprised. I've seen a number of ratchets these days come with no lube at all. Probably won't happen in my lifetime but if they do get gummed up hopefully a dunk/soak in ATF will do the trick.

@m6z and @darkzero:
Yeah the head on the 1/4 is OBNOXIOUSLY thick.

They all are, well compared to all the ratchets I own or have used. Ok maybe the 1/2" is not that bad but it does look thick to me too & again I don't own a decent 1/2" ratchets to compare with.

But again mine were gifts & I like the look of the handles so I'll be keeping them. I never sell stuff that were gifts to me, especially if they are from my family.

 

[WWheeler]

I guarantee I can get it apart.
Oh, you also wanted it put back together?

[See avatar]

 

[darkzero]

I have no experience with sealed ratchets & have no idea how they come apart. I'll snap some pics of the heads later when I get a chance.

 

[darkzero]

In my experience it's been 50/50 on non-serviceable ratchets. Both were pin spanner plates, Cornwell Har-5 took the punch and vice method but Snap On L672B has smaller holes so the punches fail before breaking it loose.

Looks like the craftsman might take a pin spanner too, it'd make sense because the plate would make the head thicker too, so it all depends on if they made the pins small enough you'd need a special tool(pin spanner for a grinding wheel but different size pins and diameter plus maybe a different shape) to avoid breaking punches or destroying the plate if you go the punch against the sidewall of the pinhole method.

Oh I missed this post. As I mentioned I have zero experience with sealed ratchets so I have no idea what you are talking about. Since you mentioned pin spanner, do some sealed ratchets have some sort of ring that gets unscrewed? And pins, other types of sealed ratches have the plates pressed on? Maybe I'll try looking into it later, just curious now is all since I don't own any.

I don't see any holes or anything on these V-S ratchets. But whatever, I'll post pics in a bit so you guys might be able to figure it out. I just assumed there was some sort of c-clip or something holding them together like in ratcheting wrenches.

 

[Jacobs976]

Oh I missed this post. As I mentioned I have zero experience with sealed ratchets so I have no idea what you are talking about. Since you mentioned pin spanner, do some sealed ratchets have some sort of ring that gets unscrewed? And pins, other types of sealed ratches have the plates pressed on? Maybe I'll try looking into it later, just curious now is all since I don't own any.

I don't see any holes or anything on these V-S ratchets. But whatever, I'll post pics in a bit so you guys might be able to figure it out. I just assumed there was some sort of c-clip or something holding them together like in ratcheting wrenches.

Here's my Cornwell, it uses the pin spanner plate. Some older stuff also used the same design and the big thing was you needed the right tool to get it open properly and that tool wasn't sold.

Here's a Snap On T72 gear and seal. Usually when talking about sealed head ratchets this is the style being talked about. The little rubber ring goes on over the anvil and keeps dust and debris from getting inside. They use any fasteners to keep the plate on but always have o rings.

With the Cornwell it's sealed as in it can't be opened without the tool that isn't available to the public so it can only be rebuilt by Cornwell(or a guy with 2 3/16 pin punches and a vice) but it doesn't utilize any o rings. It's not sealed by the common term, just non-serviceable.

 

[darkzero]

Here's a Snap On T72 gear and seal. Usually when talking about sealed head ratchets this is the style being talked about. The little rubber ring goes on over the anvil and keeps dust and debris from getting inside. They use any fasteners to keep the plate on but always have o rings.

Ah I see. In that case I do have "sealed" ratchets that have seals around the anvil & selector switch. I never considered them to be fully sealed (from elements) though. But as you said there was always fasteners to disassemble them. Never seen a ratchet like your Cornwell that uses a spanner. I still don't believe Cornwell exists, never seeen a Cornwell truck or any of their tools around here in person my entire life!

I don't see any way to disassemble these V-S ratchets with common tools though. I guess their meaning of sealed is "can't" be opened.

 

[darkzero]

3/8 CM V-S vs Snap-on F936 (F80 is about the same thickness as F936, just a lil wider, was too lazy to go get the F80)


3/8 CM V-S vs Matco BFR8T


3/8 CM V-S vs Nepros NBR390



1/4 CM V-S vs Snap-on T72 (Edit: Oops I grabbed FC72 by accident, T72 is the same size)


1/4 CM V-S vs Matco AFR5T


1/4 CM V-S vs Nepros NPR290

 

[darkzero]

Here's my Cornwell, it uses the pin spanner plate. Some older stuff also used the same design and the big thing was you needed the right tool to get it open properly and that tool wasn't sold.

Seeing your Cornwell gave me an idea. The anvil side of the V-S ratchets do sit proud of the body but no holes. I was thinking I could grab the proud part with my lathe chuck. But nope, just went & looked at em again, it's not a screw on plate, it's one piece part of the anvil.

 

[Jacobs976]

Ah I see. In that case I do have "sealed" ratchets that have seals around the anvil & selector switch. I never considered them to be fully sealed (from elements) though. But as you said there was always fasteners to disassemble them. Never seen a ratchet like your Cornwell that uses a spanner. I still don't believe Cornwell exists, never seeen a Cornwell truck or any of their tools around here in person my entire life!

I don't see any way to disassemble these V-S ratchets with common tools though. I guess their meaning of sealed is "can't" be opened.

They're all "sealed" but 90% of the ones I've serviced are always caked up with rust, dirt, and grease. The gear in the pic is from one I just converted over to 3/8, 2007 date code and looked about as bad as a 1987 with the buildup.

Cornwell's an odd brand, never seen a truck either but got the ratchet in a lot of cheap tools without knowing it was there and couldn't complain although it didn't have the handle so I still have to find a dealer eventually.

The pin spanner plates were mainly used by Williams and some other older brands. Only seen the two modern pieces, L672B and Har-5, with them so far.

The craftsman might be peened over like the old 1930s sheet metal stuff but it'd be something I haven't seen before on a ratchet that was over $5.

 

[Jacobs976]

If the whole black section on the anvil side is one piece I might have an idea of it's assembly. It could be set in like a piston with a ring. Ring is compressed to match the diameter of the anvil end with a groove cut in for it. Pressed in and pushed out of the sleeve, releasing the ring once it's in position to stop the gear from coming back out.

 

[darkzero]

If the whole black section on the anvil side is one piece I might have an idea of it's assembly. It could be set in like a piston with a ring. Ring is compressed to match the diameter of the anvil end with a groove cut in for it. Pressed in and pushed out of the sleeve, releasing the ring once it's in position to stop the gear from coming back out.

Yep, that was my thought exactly as well which is why I mentioned c-clip & ratcheting wrenches above. If that's the case which I'm pretty sure it is then they ain't coming apart easily. I have had ratcheting wrenches come apart from wear & over torquing and is how I became familiar with that type of construction. I just popped them back together.