Replacing my AC motor and need help!

[Ryan Hill]

I have a GE 5KCP39MC886AS motor (about 25 years old). I am having a hard time finding a replacement with the exact specs. My amps are 2.1 and my RPM is 825. Can I use one with a 4.70 amp and a 1075RPM? Will this blow my breaker? What do I need to keep the same? Mine is also a two wire w/ a ground. Some I have found are 4 or 5 wire.
I need a single phase, 208-230 V 1/4hp
Please help.
Thanks,
Ryan

 

[nehog]

If this is the fan motor, I'd say it probably will work, but will turn the fan faster so more noise. Generally for fan motors the more wires are to allow selecting different speeds.

 

[bonneyman]

You will run into trouble switching to the higher RPM motor. The pitch of the fan blade was designed to move the required amount of air at the lower 825RPM speed. Spinning that same blade 250RPM faster (1075RPM) will nearly double the HP required. Hence, a 1/4HP 1075 will overload. You'd need at least a 1/2HP 1075. And that's IF the larger motor will physically fit in the motor support, AND have running clearance to the coil. Also, unit amps will go up - more airflow needs more electricy. Plus the run cap will have to be different. Add up all these costs and you're just better off finding a 825RPM motor.
GE was one of those manufacturers that made OEM motors for particular HVAC makers. 25 years later, you try to track down a specific motor number, and it's obsolete.
You don't need the specific GE # motor. Any 825RPM, 208-230V, 1/4HP motor should work. Just make sure the amps of the replacement motor are the same (or more) than the original. If there are no motor warehouses in your area, contact a local HVAC company. They usually try to sell you a service call, but will sell you a motor by itself (at a substantial markup) if you insist.
PM me if you have any more questions. Have the unit make, model, and serial number handy. I can research on my end and give you some motor options.

 

[Ryan Hill]

Here are the pictures of what I'm dealing with.
GE 1/4 hp 5KCP39MC886AS
C.V. 60
RPM 825
V208-230
PH 1
A 2.1
SF 1.0
AMB 40C
Class B
FR 48Y

 

[regguy1]

I have a GE 5KCP39MC886AS motor (about 25 years old). I am having a hard time finding a replacement with the exact specs. My amps are 2.1 and my RPM is 825. Can I use one with a 4.70 amp and a 1075RPM? Will this blow my breaker? What do I need to keep the same? Mine is also a two wire w/ a ground. Some I have found are 4 or 5 wire.
I need a single phase, 208-230 V 1/4hp
Please help.
Thanks,
Ryan

These guys can rebuild your motor, They did a lift motor for me in 1997 and it still works fine

E M Service Inc 600 Lowell Street Elyria, OH 44035-4841. Phone: (440) 323-3260. Business Types: Electric Motor Repairing & Service, Electric Motors

 

[rockwithjason]

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ww...4269+4294364257+4294360572+4294345335&mc=SGSR

this should do it

 

[Freejack]

If you have an Emerson motor supplier near you, catalog #5469 would be a good replacement for that motor. That catalog number is actually a three speed motor, but you'd just use the speed that works best for the application.

Jake

 

[robertlynk]

spend the extra money and replace the capacitor also

 

[comedyman809]

call ge and ask. i have done this many times.

you will be redirected a bunch of times until you get to the right person, but they will tell you exactly what replacement to buy and where/how to get it if possible.

 

[comedyman809]

or just buy that grainger one. that should work perfect.

 

[RedVise]

Trying to help out a friend of my wifes, the fan froze up on her outside compressor .
Her house is at 95 degrees when she walks in the door, so I picked up a cheap small window unit to keep her cool until I get the fan changed out.

As we all know, nothing is every that easy. Graingers generic replacement motor installed OK after switching the leads for the correct rotation, however the suggested capacitor was not the correct one. So, I hit Graingers yesterday and picked up the correct 3 wire capacitor and installed it late yesterday. When the compressor kicks on , the fan does not start, seems to hesitate, if I give it a push the fan will run ok.
Wiring is the same as the previous motor, am I missing something here ?


thanks

Brian L.

 

[MikeLawrence]

Trying to help out a friend of my wifes, the fan froze up on her outside compressor .
Her house is at 95 degrees when she walks in the door, so I picked up a cheap small window unit to keep her cool until I get the fan changed out.

As we all know, nothing is every that easy. Graingers generic replacement motor installed OK after switching the leads for the correct rotation, however the suggested capacitor was not the correct one. So, I hit Graingers yesterday and picked up the correct 3 wire capacitor and installed it late yesterday. When the compressor kicks on , the fan does not start, seems to hesitate, if I give it a push the fan will run ok.
Wiring is the same as the previous motor, am I missing something here ?


thanks

Brian L.

It's very difficult to troubleshoot blind, but a three wire capacitor is a dual stage and when you replaced it the compressor started kicking on (the large side of the capacitor) but now the fan won't (which can be linked through the small side of the capacitor).

I'd take a look at the small side of the capacitor and make sure it really is responsible for the fan and then go from there.

Are the wires hooked up right, is there voltage on the small side and is it the correct voltage, is the small side of the capacitor the same size as on the old one, etc...

Hope that helps,
Michael Lawrence, Lissco
www.thruwalls.com

 

[justsam]

Trying to help out a friend of my wifes, the fan froze up on her outside compressor .
Her house is at 95 degrees when she walks in the door, so I picked up a cheap small window unit to keep her cool until I get the fan changed out.

As we all know, nothing is every that easy. Graingers generic replacement motor installed OK after switching the leads for the correct rotation, however the suggested capacitor was not the correct one. So, I hit Graingers yesterday and picked up the correct 3 wire capacitor and installed it late yesterday. When the compressor kicks on , the fan does not start, seems to hesitate, if I give it a push the fan will run ok.
Wiring is the same as the previous motor, am I missing something here ?


thanks

Brian L.

Sounds like you have a dual capacitor. One value for the fan, and one for the compressor. Should be marked F for fan, C for common, and HERM for compressor(hermetic). Make sure you are using F and C. Cap value should be around 5 MF for fan.

 

[RedVise]

Mike and Justsam, thanks guys ! I appreciate the fact that long distance trouble shooting is difficult (I do phone support...).

Yes to both, I marked the wiring before removing, and read off the cap specs to Grainger when replacing, and verified the cap markings matched the original locations, and the F and C are connected to the fan.

I did have to swap the leads due to having the incorrect rotation the first time I connected the motor, should not have made a difference ?

Brian L.

 

[MikeLawrence]

Sounds like it's time to break out the ameter then.

Unless something else decided to break at the exact same time you switched out that capacitor my hunch is that if the right amount of juice is getting to the fan motor, barring any impedements it will start on its own. That said it could be the capacitor, the wire, the contacts on either side... I suppose it could even be that the fan itself is slightly askew and requires a little extra oomph to start and 4.995 isn't enough but 5.005 was or whatever (some e within the tolerance of the manufacturing process)

Anyways, that's the direction I'd be looking, hope that helps,
Michael

EDIT: Also Grainger is pretty good about these things usually but a 20+7.5 and a 20+5 are mostly the same thing, except when 5 doesn't start your fan and 7.5 does ya know?

 

[lametec]

however the suggested capacitor was not the correct one. So, I hit Graingers yesterday and picked up the correct 3 wire capacitor

Why do you say the "suggested" cap wasn't the right one? The cap is sized to the motor, not the rest of the system. If it started and ran with the "incorrect" cap, but doesn't with the "correct" cap (you correct based on the values on the old cap?), then the "suggested" cap was the correct one, and the "correct" old cap is too small for the motor.