Patching drywall after panel replacement?
- Thread starter Mike1903
- Start date
Half-fast eddie
Well-known member
Won’t you have to open the wall to run the wiring?
Not really. I can feed the wire from the panel downward and they can be accessed in the crawlspace.
Put PVC conduit into the crawl space, not as cheap as it used to be, but a sick of conduit, terminal adapter, locknut, & a plastic bushing is still cheaper then opening up the wall & patching it. Be generous with the pipe size smaller pipe will fill quickly when using NM cable,"Romex®", if a lot of circuits are planned, 2" would not hurt.
James-W
Well-known member
In my garage I put a removable thin plywood panel above the service panel so that if needed I can run new electrical cable up to the second floor and wire it into the panel. I seriously doubt I will even need to do that, but the point is that by planning ahead I have the capability to do it if I need to. I highly recommend that you do something similar so that in the event you do need to run additional circuits you will be able to do so without having to do a major renovation.
I am big fan of being "proactive" even when it means spending a bit more money now rather than having to spend a lot of money later because I couldn't see the forest for the trees.
I am big fan of being "proactive" even when it means spending a bit more money now rather than having to spend a lot of money later because I couldn't see the forest for the trees.
You can fight romex connectors with the wire into the panel through a 1/2” gap, its a pain and usually ends up as 1” gap when Your done. Typically now, I will put a connector on the wire before I fish it into the panel, if accessible, or put the connector inside the panel, if I have no other way.
In the future, they make a metal 'j bead' that you can use to cover up the cut edges and give you a nice straight line next to the panel. (usually you would install it before the panel goes in)
Regarding future connections - I would just run some smurf tubing either up into the attic or down into the wall below so you can access it later. (Use a male adapter to bring it into the panel)
Regarding future connections - I would just run some smurf tubing either up into the attic or down into the wall below so you can access it later. (Use a male adapter to bring it into the panel)
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
But electrical penetrations are required be patched so that there is no more than 1/8" gap around them.
Syberia
Well-known member
Add an access panel slightly above/below, wherever your wires come in, and hang a picture over it. I have done this with both electrical panels in my house and it makes adding things later super easy.
Quick note about the Blue flexible non metallic tubing suggested above. It is required to be continuous from termination point to termination point and is not supposed to just stub out into an attic or crawl space. You could terminate it in a box, or use a different type of flexible conduit.
I am not an electrician, but please explain why you think that is the case?
grounded-b
Well-known member
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
NEC 314.21
Repairing Noncombustible Surfaces. Noncombustible
surfaces that are broken or incomplete around boxes employ‐
ing a flush-type cover or faceplate shall be repaired so there
will be no gaps or open spaces greater than 3 mm (1∕8 in.) at the
edge of the box
Terry D
Well-known member
It all has to do with the cover. A flush mount cover, yes the 1/8 inch rule applies. A surface mount cover, it does not
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Have you ever seen a surface mount cover used with a drywall or plaster finish? It looks like
anywayTerry D
Well-known member
I totally agree. Im not arguing. Just the way the article readHave you ever seen a surface mount cover used with a drywall or plaster finish? It looks like
OK - but wouldn't it depend on where you live? For example, Chicago requires steel conduit for all residential wiring, even in the walls
Jim greengo
Well-known member
Welcome to south omaha!Have you ever seen a surface mount cover used with a drywall or plaster finish? It looks like
nadogail
Well-known member
I have a metal access plate covering the space between the top of my panel in the house to the ceiling in my laundry room, it is painted wall color.
I stayed in hotel this last week that had one in the room. It was painted to match the wall, and didn't look that bad. I mean, I wouldn't have had it my house, but I doubt my wife noticed it.Have you ever seen a surface mount cover used with a drywall or plaster finish? It looks like
EngineerNate
Well-known member
Everbilt 14 in. x 14 in. Adjustable Spring Loaded Plastic Access Panel APS14 - The Home Depot
Conceal plumbing, wires, cables or spa pumps in residential and commercial applications by using Everbilt Spring Loaded Plastic Access Panel.
www.homedepot.com
Put one of these in, paint it to match the wall.
If you stub down with conduit, you can generally just put a bushing on the end of the conduit if it's stubbing down/up inside a wall. If it's surface mounted and penetrates a ceiling you generally have to have a box on the other side to terminate it into.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
You missed an exception >
Exception No. 3: For concealed work in finished buildings or prefinished wall panels where such securing is impracticable, unbroken lengths (without coupling) of ENT shall be permitted to be fished
Yes it can be fished and not secured in the void, but it is still supposed to be ran as a continuous run from termination to termination, but it not to be fished through a wall and just end with the cables continuing on.
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alfredeneuman
Well-known member
That's not what the OP is talking about. The placed where fished will immediately above and connected to the panel. If he puts a box on the other end that would be the other termination.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
The posts were all pertinent to the discussion.
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