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Got my wrench stuck in a tight place... help me.

tjmonsen5

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Crystal Lake IL
I am building up a jetski engine, and i got my 1 way ratcheting craftsman pro wrench stuck in this tight little place on the intake manifold. I was having tons of trouble trying to get the nut on, because the space between the throat of the manifold, and the mounting flange is very small. I then put the bolt inside the box end of my wrench, and got it on that way. But then i realized i wasnt using my reversible wrench, it was my 1 way wrench!!!! What can I do!! There is not enough room obviously to remove the wrench now, i got it stuck!!

I have been trying to cut the stud, but the space is so small that I am cutting the manifold instead (not good, this manifold cost me 100 bucks!)
I also tried using a punch and hammer to turn the ratchet back, but its not budging.
This wrench just laughs at hacksaw blades, doesnt even scratch it.

What would you guys do?

fayk1y.jpg

mvtdu9.jpg
 
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autoace

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Tighten the nut until the stud breaks, the wrench and nut will come out then with the end of the stud, then remove the manifold and remove the stud, replace stud, put manifold back on, and don't get it stuck again.
 

autoace

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I think the engine block would crack or strip before the stud breaks. Or crack the aluminum manifold.

What grade is the hardware SAE grade 5 or metric 8.8 etc.................try it, otherwise you are going to have to get a cutting wheel, and cut between the manifold and wrench to get it off. If you are careful you won't ruin the manifold, just the wrench. I would NEVER use a ratcheting wrench in such tight quarters, looks like it barelty fit in there.
 

fatboy99

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Torch the wrench out it's probly cheaper than dammaginh the intake or block
Just my 2 cents
 

autoace

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What I don't understand is, as you tighten the nut, you will affectively have more room to get the wrench out.....................how did you get clearance to get it in there in the first place??????????????????Since the least clearance is when you start it, and had to fit it in there.:headscrat
 

autoace

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What I don't understand is, as you tighten the nut, you will affectively have more room to get the wrench out.....................how did you get clearance to get it in there in the first place??????????????????Since the least clearance is when you start it, and had to fit it in there.:headscrat

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I just looked at the photo again, I think you are B.S.ing us. The nut in the head of the wrench would not fit period! The nut would just, then an open wrench would tighten it. I also noticed the wrench is at an angle and the picture is blurry, but there is no nut in the head of the wrench. The shouldered nuts you are using, that can be seen on the lower stud would show in the bottom picture. I am an engineer............the wrench with the nut would not fit, and if it did, since you got it started, there would be more clearance to remove the wrench. The only way it could get stuck, if it fit in the first place, would be if the nut wouldn't tighten at least flush with the end of the stud, and that does not look like the case.
 

walrus

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, Can have many turns on that nut with the clearance you've got there. Pull the manifold back off, pull your wrench out
 

BMPGTI

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Jun 10, 2010
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I had this problem when working with my brother on his jeep, he was using one of those ratcheting combination wrenches...anyways he wasnt paying attention and backed out the upper control arm mount bolt up to the catalytic converter...we had a hell of a time getting it out of there. We were able to bend the exhaust a bit (more than a bit haha) and get it off, massive PITA.

This looks a little more difficult.
 

Rickster

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Yup, as said above, cut the stud & nut off between the manifold and the wrench and replace the stud (cover that intake with some tape first).
 

hedjhawg

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Green Bay, WI
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I just looked at the photo again, I think you are B.S.ing us. The nut in the head of the wrench would not fit period! The nut would just, then an open wrench would tighten it. I also noticed the wrench is at an angle and the picture is blurry, but there is no nut in the head of the wrench. The shouldered nuts you are using, that can be seen on the lower stud would show in the bottom picture. I am an engineer............the wrench with the nut would not fit, and if it did, since you got it started, there would be more clearance to remove the wrench. The only way it could get stuck, if it fit in the first place, would be if the nut wouldn't tighten at least flush with the end of the stud, and that does not look like the case.

He started the nut by pulling the manifold away from the block and with the nut already recessed inside his wrench, started threading it on. As it tightened, the clearance between the end of thestud and the back side of the manifold closed. Now he can't back the nut off, because it it not a reversible ratchet.
 

hedjhawg

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Pry the wrench toward the right (away from the block) until it contacts the back side of the intake plenum. Stuff a rag into the intake to make sure no poopoo gets ingested. CAREFULLY use a dremmel with a cutoff wheel to sever the nut and the stud between the wrench and the block-side of the manifold. Work slowly and be sure to have several cutoff wheels on hand (as the wheel gets "consumed", it shrinks in diameter, and reduces the "reach" of your cut. You may need to pull the carb stud as it will probably be in your way. Replace the stud. Never repeat.
 

Shadowdog500

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Drill a hole in the wrench where the ratchet paw would be and stick something in there to hold it back, so you can rotate the nut backwards. If that dont work you probably need a dremel, saw, or a torch.

Chris
 

TheGrooveking

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An alternate reality in a parallel universe.
Ohhhh, the old proverbial monkey grabbing the ball in the vase connundrum. First off call all of your friends over and let them laugh at you.....seriously do as recommended and loosen the nut back off and take the wrench off and then use the correct tool and this time pay attention.

TheGrooveking
 
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Davefr

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2 or 3 in. cutoff wheel and you are done in 30 sec.

^^^ what he said. You won't save the wrench but you will save the manifold and stud.

Plan B would be a cobalt drill bit strategiclly placed at the ratchet mechanism of the wrench. Once the wrench free wheels you can cut it off from both sides. (Dremel, cutoff wheel, or drill holes and a small chisel.)
 
Last edited:

Bruce Lancaster

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Also, once the problem is fixed, use lots of anti-sieze on the thing so you can count on removing it with the open end.
 

scott37300

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I use to have a couple skis and built the motors up. And this also happened to me, only difference was I wasn't using a ratcheting wrench so I just loosened the nut back up. And for the guys that don't believe him I can tell you that he probably isn't making this up.

On jet skis there is a very specific order things need to be done and a specific way to do them. I was 16 when I started working on them and learned real quick. I would get a part in and then realise there wasn't room to tighten the next bolt. Lots of doing things twice!

(Ike mentioned sacrafice the wrench. Cheap price for the lesson learned
 

leftyz

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How about using a cutting wheel, sacrificing the gaskets and cutting the stud between the block and manifold?
 

filtered

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You can try depending on how tight you made it is go buy a cheap chinese made wrench the same size. Grind the open end till it's skinny enough to fit between the wrench and manifold.
 
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yogitech

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Orlando, FL
How about using a cutting wheel, sacrificing the gaskets and cutting the stud between the block and manifold?

You don't want to do that, then, you have to extract the stud thats now flush with the block. Also, its not a good thing to damage the machined matting surface of the block and manifold.
 

leftyz

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You don't want to do that, then, you have to extract the stud thats now flush with the block. Also, its not a good thing to damage the machined matting surface of the block and manifold.
you see how thick that copper lookin gasket is though? with a steady hand, it looks like an option.. then just use a bolt extractor (EZ out) to remove the stud from the block
 

Davefr

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Just remove the other nuts and slide the manifold back to gain access to the nut,

He obviously can't. The nut he tightened can't be reversed because the wrench ratchets in the reverse direction. (he turned onto a dead end street with no reverse)

However he should be able to slice, grind, drill or chisel the head of the wrench off.
 
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Stick Figure

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If you can remove the remaining bolts and studs, then you should be able to rotate the intake itself which will loosen the nut that is stuck. Gasket may be damaged, but thats going to be the only casualty. Just can't tell from the pics if you have enough room to spin the manifold or not.
 

slicktoptt

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I would try and dremel the flange enough to get the wrench out. Looks thick enough to take some material off in the area where I put the red line pointing to.

fayk1y.jpg
 

Davefr

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There's no way I would risk the stud, gasket or manifold. He said it's a Jetski engine so that means parts are expensive and maybe even hard to get. I bet ordering an OEM stud would exceed the cost to replace the wrench.

The wrench has got to be the sacrificial offering here.
 
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