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Green Douglas Fir pre cut studs?

RossAustin

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Working on getting everything together for my attached garage addition and with the price of lumber I've been shopping around. I came across 104 5/8" pre cut Green Douglas Fir for half the price of southern yellow pine. From what I've read it is common to use Douglas Fir for stud walls and my local lumber yard confirmed this, however he sells kiln dried Douglas Fir for around $12 and the "green" I found at a different location is $7. So whats the deal? The green wood has been inside in a climate controlled warehouse for about 4 months and it feels dry and is straight. Is there any downside to using the cheaper stud?
 
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FMB4

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Go with kiln dried. The downside to using the cheaper stud is warping/twisting.
 
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RossAustin

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Do you think it will still warp and twist after its been drying in the climate controlled warehouse? Reason I ask is because warping is also my concern, but it was dry to the touch and lighter than a comparable pine board and very straight. My line of thinking is that it dried out in storage but only way to know would be a moisture meter maybe.
 

yugami

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Do you think it will still warp and twist after its been drying in the climate controlled warehouse? Reason I ask is because warping is also my concern, but it was dry to the touch and lighter than a comparable pine board and very straight. My line of thinking is that it dried out in storage but only way to know would be a moisture meter maybe.
If you have a cheap moisture meter it would answer a lot of questions. But 4 months isn't a lot of drying time for green lumber.
 

KenC

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They will shrink as they dry. Some will warp. But, if you get them nailed down soon after you bring them home, that will minimize the twisting warp. Warping accross the narrow direction is not really a problem as they can be easily pushed into alignment when appliing sheathing or siding. That leaves warpage accross the 4" side, and that is not often a problem. And, Douglas fir warps much less that pine or the 'whitewood' the big box stores sell.

I lived in the Phoenix for a couple of years and green DF was a common material at all the lumber sources.

I'd use them.
 

yeldogt

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Every builder I have ever worked with likes to buy quality lumber and install it .... nothing good happens when it sits around.

Maybe you can get away with engineered studs -- but we get them up ASAP as well.
 

theoldwizard1

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If you have a cheap moisture meter it would answer a lot of questions. But 4 months isn't a lot of drying time for green lumber.
Not in MI ! OP is in TX.

If he wants them to air dry he had better sticker and band them.
 

FredWanaker

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we had green redwood slats, 2x4's and 4x4's stacked all this summer and covered with sheets and blankets to control warping and splitting. It was outside with air around both sides, 110F - 112F for weeks on end, no day under 95F. The height was about 3' - 4' and the width 6'. It was still wet inside the bundle come October when we used it.
 

mike93lx

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we had green redwood slats, 2x4's and 4x4's stacked all this summer and covered with sheets and blankets to control warping and splitting. It was outside with air around both sides, 110F - 112F for weeks on end, no day under 95F. The height was about 3' - 4' and the width 6'. It was still wet inside the bundle come October when we used it.
Wood takes about a year per inch to dry. If that bundle had no air flow through it, it will be wet for a long, long time in the middle
 

stripedbass

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I would not recommend. Another thing to consider is if the green lumber is unstamped. If a framing inspection is required, it could be a problem. I know of a job here in MA, where it was an issue with site cut and dried lumber, but then again it is MA.
 

ycgoat

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Sure, carpenter’s prefer kiln dried wood, but most stick framed buildings are not made from it, because time and money is more important to them. What is your priority?
 

mike93lx

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Sure, carpenter’s prefer kiln dried wood, but most stick framed buildings are not made from it, because time and money is more important to them. What is your priority?
Basically all stick framed buildings are made with kiln dried (KD) wood as that is what pretty much all lumber that is sold at stores is.
 

ycgoat

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OK, I stand corrected. I just looked at the specs for Lowes lumber and it is showing as Kiln dried. I watched a program on building with logs where they said basically what I said above, so either I mis understood or that is only typical for logs.
 

Dumber than lumber

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Buy once, cry once?
How much money difference we talking at this point?
$500 plus tax? I am a cheapie, and take stupid chances sometimes. But I am learning ..... :headscrat :unsure:
 

yeldogt

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All lumber is up in price ..... engineered is up less. My previous project was a mix of engineered and KD. The framers got the material delivered and installed .. I use plywood for sheathing. The builder still needed to true up the walls prior to sheet rocking .. when you are doing high end work you want flat walls ..even when using 5/8. Everything is easier going forward.

That's why some are moving to the engineered -- more money up front ..... less playing around and better fit (especially a kitchen). Time is money. Also -- there is less waste. All the cut offs are usable .. no junk -- no work arounds.

For a garage -- it may not be worth it. I like using it because I'm not a pro who knows all the tricks to get everything in place --it's easy to work with and every piece is the same
 

JOE.G

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My Shop was build with true 2x6 fresh cut and planed lumber that my friend milled for me ( he owns a large lumber mill and also stamped it for me ) I had very little issue with warping, mine was Fir I believe. He cuts a lot of wood for me for all different types of Project and fresh wood takes a long time to dry, I usually put it up wet but I am building Barns or Smaller buildings on my property with it.
 

Dagny

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Almost all the big barns here in Wis. were made with green lumber because they were made of hardwood which would be very hard to drive a nail in when dry
 
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NUTTSGT

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You're looking at pre-cuts on an attached build. Are you matching a roof line or trying to stay under a certain height ?

I shudder at the thought of buying pre-cuts unless you are 100% guaranteed that nothing is going to be out of whack. ....

Foundation is 1/2" too low or open up the outside wall and find out something is taller than expected. Now your pre-cuts are too short. Personally, I would rather buy 10 footers and cut them down when I know the exact size I need.
 

FordTruckWench

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Basically all stick framed buildings are made with kiln dried (KD) wood as that is what pretty much all lumber that is sold at stores is.

Out here on the west coast, almost all the lumber sold by the big box stores is not kiln dried. Some locations have one SKU of kiln dried 2"x4"x8' ... white wood, aka SprucePineFir junk.
 

mike93lx

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Out here on the west coast, almost all the lumber sold by the big box stores is not kiln dried. Some locations have one SKU of kiln dried 2"x4"x8' ... white wood, aka SprucePineFir junk.
Can you provide some support for that? I have never seen construction lumber that wasn't KD, except PT, and even that can be bought KDAT (kiln dried after treatment)
 

FordTruckWench

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Can you provide some support for that? I have never seen construction lumber that wasn't KD, except PT, and even that can be bought KDAT (kiln dried after treatment)

Precut stud:


Note: "Moisture content Green"
These will be stamped SGR - i.e. Slightly GReen.

The kiln dried 8':


Note: "Moisture content KDHT"
I don't know for what purpose these are meant to be used. Maybe for small remodels where a wall is framed, rocked, mudded, and painted all in the same day?
 

pcmeiners

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"I have never seen construction lumber that wasn't KD,"

Aside from Douglas fir sited above, which is commonly use for new construction in NY, house pre 70s were all green lumber.
If you want cracks/bowing in Sheetrock, doors sticking, alignment issue, bathroom tile sealing issues go with green lumber, it will not disappoint.
 

u2slow

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Can you provide some support for that? I have never seen construction lumber that wasn't KD, except PT, and even that can be bought KDAT (kiln dried after treatment)
Houses out here are built year-round and the lumber is rained on during construction until the roof goes on.

Once the wet lumber is fastened in place, it dries straighter than left loose.

The thing with PT... you're probably using it outside where it gets rained on anyway.
 

haveissues

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Around here both green and KD was available 10 or more years ago but I haven't seen anything but KD in years.

In my opinion, plan on using any green wood you can't nail in place as soon as you bring it home for kindling.
 
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RossAustin

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El Campo Texas
So I didn't mean to cause such a stir. One thing I would like to note, the word "green" to most is cut a tree on Monday, mill it Tuesday and install Wednesday. This lumber is not that "green". I don't know when it was cut, but I do know its been sitting in a climate controlled building for at least 4 months now and is very straight. I am going to look at it again and get a picture of any grade stamps or mill markings, just for fun. I don't know that Ill use it though.
 

reader2580

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Precut stud:


Note: "Moisture content Green"
These will be stamped SGR - i.e. Slightly GReen.

These green 2x4s come up as not available in my area when I click on the URL. That probably helps explains why I had never heard of big box stores selling green lumber.
 

egdede

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Use it is right. But, to be clear, their web-site is wrong. as noted 2 above: KD = kiln=dried.
 

cos

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KD HT This is heat threated to kill stuff for export. Not dried to normal finish lumber percent. Doug Fir is a groupl 1 wood.
 

Daniel Dudley

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All we had for years around here was KD Spruce or green Doug fir. Doug fir is great lumber and is a lot more resistant to bugs and rot. We always hand pick our lumber, including joists and rafters, so warping isn't an issue. Been known to stack the big stuff up and have the lumber yard deliver it. We can't get green DF anymore, as was said, it is to prevent the spread of invasive parasites.
 
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