Will Sharkbit fittings work on a heater core?

[Jbullfrog]

I am replacing the heater in our Case 1845C skid-loader. The original heater is a Zero-Start that had 90deg compression fittings on the copper tubes so it has clearance to fit where it is at. I got a new identical heater, and when I tried to tighten the compression fittings, it broke the tubes loose where they are soldered to the core. Would a Shark Bite 90 work at the temperatures of a heater core and with antifreeze?

 

[Sumboodie]

Cant resolder it?

 

[mike93lx]

A quick Google search says that shark bites are only rated for 200 degrees

 

[gmcgeo]

shark bites are good for 200 PSI and 200°F

 

[Jbullfrog]

Cant resolder it?

The tubes are 5/8 copper and neck down to 1/2". They are too close to the frame of the heater core to be able to solder without getting the next loop too hot.

 

[GettinJunkDone]

What about a press fit?

Have any plumber buddies with the right tools? If not, maybe you could rent the tool?

 

[lilscorpion]

The tubes are 5/8 copper and neck down to 1/2". They are too close to the frame of the heater core to be able to solder without getting the next loop too hot.

take a kitchen towel, dunk it in water, and wrap the second pipe while you weld the first one. It's how you solder plumbing fittings that are in close proximity. Have done it a lot, works perfectly.

 

[joe49]

Soldering in close can be easily done by filling with water and positioning so the solder area is just above the water. The water will protect the solder joints that are emersed. Or take it to a pro who will have no problem repairing it.

 

[Jbullfrog]

Soldering in close can be easily done by filling with water and positioning so the solder area is just above the water. The water will protect the solder joints that are emersed. Or take it to a pro who will have no problem repairing it.

I took it to a radiator shop and they suggested getting a new one. The loops of the core are 1/2" apart, so I'm guessing they were all soldered at once at the factory.

 

[joe49]

Back to the water trick. Even if you where to F up, you're no worse off than were you are now.

 

[Jbullfrog]

I added photos.
Are there any 90deg compression or push on fittings that would work better? The heater box sits under the left side of the cab and the lines come up from the bottom on either side of the bracket. I think I will get new compression fittings and ferrels and start fresh. As you can see, I have to cut the lines shorter to be able to put fittings on them. Blasting holes to run the hoses straight on is not an option because there is a control arm and a gusset behind where the bracket is mounted.

 

[Wrench97]

I would not trust sharkbite or press fittings the temp and pressure and vibration varies too much in the vehicle environment for their design. Kind of like push connect fittings on truck air lines they work great for awhile then start leaking when it's cold out after 4-5 years and get continually worse.

I would try soldering with a small butane torch, after all it can't leak any worse then it does now.

 

[joe49]

I disagree with Butane or propane. Use mapp or acetylene object is hot where it needs to be quick and out so as not to have a large HAZ.

 

[Ohmthis]

That tube can be soldered back together. I wouldn't try the water trick that is mentioned. it creates steam and that potentially can burn you very badly. Solder with an O/A troch with a welding tip. You can fine tune the flame to a pencil tip and concentrate the heat. There are heat pastes that do an awesome job of protecting parts around them. I use Thermo-Trap by Nu-Calgon. I work in HVAC and we frequently braze right next to delicate parts, even rubber. The main trick is to get in quick and solder and get out quick. Good luck on your repair.

 

[joe49]

Just wondering why steam is of a concern at 212f, when if your using a O/A which can reach 6300f or if use propane at 2000f. That steam don't scare me much . Which is by the way is why you use the water as until it does turn to steam you are in the 212f and down range which is below the melting point of solders in the 400f's. Note this is with the project open to atmosphere so no presure build up.

 

[fitter30]

90° heater hose moulded fittings

 

[metlmunchr]

Those joints are made with silphos or some similar hard solder. Soft solder does not cause the discoloration that's present there.. I could fix the bad joint in a couple minutes using a turbo torch and 15% silphos. Soft solder will not stick to that. That's probably why the radiator shop wouldn't try to repair it as they typically only deal with soft solder.

That said, it looks like the tube is also mangled where it exits the tube sheet. My guess is it'll crack there pretty soon even if the bad joint is successfully repaired. Looks like a classic case of attempting to tighten a fitting without using a backup wrench.