1/2 inch sockets for weekend warriors.

[65ranchero]

I agree with all that has been said
The only time I have to use a chrome socket is when a bolt is in a deep recess and a impact socket will not fit in there.

Most of my work in the shop is with a 3/8 air impact, set on low gets a lot done.

PSA------*Buy extra 10mm sockets they get lost!!!!!

 

[johnny_boy02]

For many years I had the “I don’t need impacts” mentality. About 7 years ago I ran into a situation where my truck needed new struts, brakes, rear shocks and a few other small things. I ended up buying the parts, a craftsman compressor and the impact gun and sockets from harbor freight. All that was still about $500 Les than the quote I got from a shop.

Once I went air tools I can’t believe how dumb it was to wait so long. The best benefit for me is after a long day of working on a project I am not nearly as tired or beat up feeling.

 

[Shop-hound]

Weekend warrior here, but been at it management for 20+ years automotive and industrial mechanical work. Difference in cost of chrome vs impact is negligible. I only have the impact sets of 1/2” drive to save room in tool chest, and never had a need for thinner wall in chrome. Rare you need something larger than 22mm and when you do, buy individuals for axle nuts etc.

As for the usefulness of impact wrench itself, it’s more than just the power or torque advantage given to you by the tool. The “impact” hammering helps to loosen the faster by causing small fractures in the corrosion with less need for torque to force it apart. This results in less stripped and snapped fasteners (can wreck a guys afternoon), nevermind saving your shoulder and knuckles fighting rusty old stuff . Any other Canadian/rust belt wrenchers on here can surely attest to that!

You will never regret having the right tool for the job!

 

[mepstein]

I started with the $25 harbor freight plug in 1/2" rattle gun. I now have a bunch of battery powered impact guns but the plug in tool is still going strong. With old cars, I'm less likely to break hardware using the impact gun and I've seen people using breaker bars almost pull a car off the jack stands. It's not a "have to" but when I bought one for my dad, he loved it. He uses it for a lot more than just automotive. He's 86 so the extra powered help is appreciated.

 

[Ricky Joe]

we have axle locknuts on our equipment that torque to 885 Lb Ft, your choices for taking it apart are the 1" drive, 4' long breaker bar with an 8' piece of pipe on the end making a smiley face.....or 3 ugga 2 dugga with a 3/4" gun and get a new one from parts.

Guess what happens.

No torque multiplier?

If Blake has that much trouble taking things apart, my guess is that someone is over tightening fasteners. For home use on modern cars that other people have worked on, I can see having an impact wrench set to “off”. I work on older vehicles, primarily. Recent projects were 1934 Buick and 1940 Continental, upcoming is 1951 Lincoln. If anything has been overtightened by much it will be replaced. Overtightening ruins accurate torque value clamping. I want to feel it so I know. I’ve even been known to loosen with a torque wrench. You have to bond with the vehicle. Sounds crazy, and I have been accused, but recently my reputation found itself in Indianapolis, whence I got a call to do a 1942 Continental.

 

[sparky 1971]

It's way too late for me, I have all of them. Shallow, deep, chrome, and impact from 10mm up to 32mm and deep on up to 38mm in both chrome and impact. If I had to do it all over again and was only going to have one set, I would get the deep impact set from Tekton that goes from 10-38mm knowing that the odds of using anything smaller than 19 mm are pretty slim. Buying individuals from 19-38 might be more cost effective, but I really doubt it. The reason for deep is that they will almost always work and I can't think of a time I've used a shallow socket without some sort of extension, whether using an impact or ratchet.

1/2 Inch Drive Deep 6-Point Impact Socket Set, 8 - 38 mm | TEKTON

31-piece set includes 8 - 38 mm (metric) deep 6-point impact sockets with case. No skipped sizes. SID92335.

www.tekton.com

 

[CS454]

No torque multiplier?

Short answer: no.

Longer answer: management.

I get extremely picky about hardware and torque specs myself. Hearing "It's a grade 8 bolt just reuse it" from folks who impact on things with torque specs in the manual drives me a touch nuts. Always new hardware, proper prep, proper torque. Detailed notes. CYA.

 

[FMB4]

impact sockets can be crv too, critical factor is heat treatment and actual quality of the grade alloy steel used .
i've got many good crv impact sockets doing daily work no issues and in some instances they stay in better shape than crmo .

You're better off buying CRMO rather than CRV when it comes to impact sockets. CRV is much more prone to shattering under impact loads than CRMO. Period.

 

[ecotec]

If you can afford it, the 6pt Grey Pneumatic deep set that goes up to 32mm is really great for the money.

 

[boom_bap]

Thanks for all the feedback. I think you all gave some excellent advise. I'll pick up some impact sockets in 1/2 and probably also 3/8 while I'm at it. I may have to keep an eye out at pawn shops for quality 1/2 chromes just to scratch the itch.

Anyone like wobbles over just normal impacts?

I also appreciate the advise on which sizes. The 10-24 sets are much more affordable, and if I tackle a job I know I need a bigger size I could just pick it up then. I'll have to see what deals I find before I commit.

 

[bsaint]

Tbh what m8 fastener do you need a 1/2 drive 13mm socket for if you have it in 3/8. I would say 16mm to 27mm min on the upper end.

 

[sparky 1971]

Tbh what m8 fastener do you need a 1/2 drive 13mm socket for if you have it in 3/8. I would say 16mm to 27mm min on the upper end.

16 mm and 5/8 would probably be the ideal size to start a 1/2" drive set. It would also make too much sense. More pieces in the set makes it more appealing to the buyer, even if 1/3 of them won't be used. And, the sets cost less than buying individuals. All of my 1/2 sets start at 3/8 or 10mm, but I can't think of a time I used a socket smaller than 3/4 or 19mm. Same thing, but not as bad with the 3/8 sets. I don't believe I've ever used a 1/4, 5/16, 8, or 9mm 3/8 drive socket but I have them.

Edit: It doesn't match up to the original topic, but I was just out in the shop and happened to notice that my 3/8 metric set not only goes down to 8mm, but it also has 6 and 7mm. I can all but guarantee those will never see a 3/8 ratchet.

 

[Lucid Moments]

Anyone like wobbles over just normal impacts?

They are almost irreplaceable when you need them, but unless I need them I prefer standard sockets.

 

[boom_bap]

I agree that 1/2inch on a 10mm is ridiculous since most 10mm fasteners max torque is around 37 ft-lbs.

 

[cjarvis]

I don’t suppose you do need a 10mm for 1/2” drive, but if all I had for an impact wrench was a 1/2 drive, I’d rather have that socket than be forced to run them by hand all the time.

 

[Tools4Me]

I agree that 1/2inch on a 10mm is ridiculous since most 10mm fasteners max torque is around 37 ft-lbs.

It depends quite a bit on what you work on. My main standard and deep 1/2" drive socket sets are impact, and they purposefully start at 10mm and 7/16", because I often find the smaller sizes useful for purposes other than turning standard bolts. For instance, I insert cut segments of hex L wrenches into them to make custom length hex bit sockets any time my regular 1/2" drive hex bit sockets are either too long or too short for the job I need to do. Smaller sizes like 7/16, 1/2, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm are commonly used for that purpose. Even a small 7/16" hex socket cap screw will often have a torque spec of about 100-110 ftlbs. A 1/2" socket head cap screw will often be up around 175 ftlbs. I greatly prefer 1/2" drive for those applications, and that technique also allows me to use my 1/2" drive torque wrenches to do final torquing (my 3/8" drive torque wrenches all top out at around 80 ftlbs).

I also occasionally slip 7/16" hex drive hole saw arbors into 7/16" hex 1/2" drive sockets so I can use my hand tools to help quickly loosen up a jammed/bound up hole saw when drilling deeper holes in wood.

There are also larger sized insert bits that can sometimes be found for good prices in 7/16" hex drive (or 10mm hex drive if made in Taiwan/China) and slipped into 1/2" drive sockets for custom uses. Things like T55, T60, or T70 torx bits are an example.

Socket sizes from 7/16" or 10mm to about 3/4" or 19mm are the most useful and versatile sockets you will own, so don't be afraid to have multiple square drive options and lots of overlap in that size range.

 

[f121]

Tbh what m8 fastener do you need a 1/2 drive 13mm socket for if you have it in 3/8. I would say 16mm to 27mm min on the upper end.

Handy for those times you’ve got a rusted up m6 or m8 and you just want to snap it off.

agree, 27mm is a good upper size.

 

[bsaint]

If I had to get another chrome set it would be Wright. If I had to get another impact set it would be Sunex.

 

[Bubba Fett]

I'm thinking about getting into the impact game. Most of what I do is simple maintenance, changing out a part here and there, but I feel like I may need to do more of my own repairs and maintenance to save costs. So I'll probably look into a 1/2" drive impact set.

Not sure about an impact gun. I'm thinking cordless, since I know I won't be doing enough to need a full air setup, which isn't practical for me anyway. I'm not sure what brand to go with. I kinda hate to add another battery platform, but Milwaukee seems interesting.

 

[username2]

To the OP, all the answers will be anecdotes, so I'll indulge and throw mine in.

I sold all of my super nice sets of 1/2" since I simply didn't use them enough and they were just sitting. I ended up with a full set of Apex (Dayton) impact sockets in SAE and metric, a Snap-on ratchet (industrial finish, naturally), Apex extensions, and (the point of the post) one of those Milwaukee M12 1/2" impact wrenches. That Milwaukee is pretty magic and I find myself using it a fair amount of the time, as opposed to the air stuff which was a hassle to turn on and hook up.

No need thus far for anything else. I admit that there's a set of Craftsman chrome sockets in a tray somewhere around here if there's ever a clearance problem.

Is there a difference between impact socket brands, or enough to matter? I don't have any idea. If I bought new, I'd probably just pick up one of those Taiwanese sets from Amazon.

 

[65ranchero]

Anyone like wobbles over just normal impacts?

Swivels impacts are better (at least for me)
And use a impact universal with a locking pin for the socket, it prevents the socket becoming a helicopter flying in the air and possibly causing injury to you or people around you .
And yes they can get a lot of air time and you won't know where it lands

 

[javyLSU]

16 mm and 5/8 would probably be the ideal size to start a 1/2" drive set. It would also make too much sense. More pieces in the set makes it more appealing to the buyer, even if 1/3 of them won't be used. And, the sets cost less than buying individuals. All of my 1/2 sets start at 3/8 or 10mm, but I can't think of a time I used a socket smaller than 3/4 or 19mm. Same thing, but not as bad with the 3/8 sets. I don't believe I've ever used a 1/4, 5/16, 8, or 9mm 3/8 drive socket but I have them.

I'm still looking for a great place to store lose the 1/2" drive 8mm and 9mm shallow sockets that my SK set came with... Those two pieces have always baffled me about that set.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Tbh what m8 fastener do you need a 1/2 drive 13mm socket for if you have it in 3/8. I would say 16mm to 27mm min on the upper end.

Good point. Two quick counters:

Just last month: Galled threads on an M8, stainless exhaust bolt (I got some cheezy stainless last time around, lesson learned). Not worth my time. 13mm socket on an impact made quick work of it and I slid a better bolt in. All my impacts are 1/2" for several reasons, but that's just me.

It can be more convenient to grab the needed 1/2" sockets when you've got to unscrew doodads (ABS sensors, etc) around the big stuff, then you can get away with a single ratchet and extension.

Everyone does it differently depending on their habits and what they work on. We are fortunate in that there are losta cheap-but-good options these days. Everyone can rough out what works from them, before painting themselves into an expensive corner when building a set of tools. I'm glad that I started out with cheaper tools. It let me be a bit more surgical in piecing out nicer tools when I've upgraded over the years.

-Ryan

 

[username2]

I'm still looking for a great place to store lose the 1/2" drive 8mm and 9mm shallow sockets that my SK set came with... Those two pieces have always baffled me about that set.

You're supposed to hook them up to a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter and use a 3/4" impact.

 

[boom_bap]

For instance, I insert cut segments of hex L wrenches into them to make custom length hex bit sockets any time my regular 1/2" drive hex bit sockets are either too long or too short for the job I need to do.

That is pretty darn clever!

 

[four.cycle]

to the OP:
I don't have a lot of time right now, so I did not read all the replies here, but:

If you are looking for some 1/2" drive chrome sockets, take a look HERE

 

[sparky 1971]

I'm still looking for a great place to store lose the 1/2" drive 8mm and 9mm shallow sockets that my SK set came with... Those two pieces have always baffled me about that set.

I can't say that I've ever seen them that small. I thought it was ridiculous that my 3/8 set has 8 and 9 mm. I suppose if a person only wanted to have one socket set it would be perfect. How large does that set go?

 

[matthew]

I don’t know that 8-15mm makes much sense to someone that has a 3/8” impact wrench, but for a DIY that just has one impact it’s probably 1/2” drive, and there is a possible utility to having them, even if you have to turn down the impact gun to use them.

Kind of funny that the only duplicate 1/2” drive socket that I have is 3/8”. Neither of the two came with my set, both were found items. Guess it made more sense back in the day.

 

[VolvoRyan]

I can't say that I've ever seen them that small. I thought it was ridiculous that my 3/8 set has 8 and 9 mm. I suppose if a person only wanted to have one socket set it would be perfect. How large does that set go?

Around here, a number of replacement fasteners come from the mothership with "undersized" heads. I've got M8 flange screws with 10mm heads and M6 with 8mm heads. Makes it handy to have the 8mm in 3/8". One less ratchet handle to grab when throwing the tools into a tear down tray for a timing belt.

-Ryan

 

[sparky 1971]

Around here, a number of replacement fasteners come from the mothership with "undersized" heads. I've got M8 flange screws with 10mm heads and M6 with 8mm heads. Makes it handy to have the 8mm in 3/8". One less ratchet handle to grab when throwing the tools into a tear down tray for a timing belt.

-Ryan

Not this guy. I am too much of a slob when it comes to tearing things apart. Every socket that gets used is going to have it's own ratchet. It's easier to find it than standing there scratching my head wondering where I set that effing socket down.

I counted when I put new shock/strut assemblies and calipers on my wife's Commander. There were four 1/2" drive and three 3/8" drive ratchets laying on the floor, each with a socket. There were also two cordless and one air impact along with an air ratchet.

 

[Wrench97]

Not this guy. I am too much of a slob when it comes to tearing things apart. Every socket that gets used is going to have it's own ratchet. It's easier to find it than standing there scratching my head wondering where I set that effing socket down.

I counted when I put new shock/strut assemblies and calipers on my wife's Commander. There were four 1/2" drive and three 3/8" drive ratchets laying on the floor, each with a socket. There were also two cordless and one air impact along with an air ratchet.

Once you start using air or electric tools the need for those sockets becomes apparent, unless of course you spend a couple grand on electric ratchets so you can have one for every socket.................................................

 

[sparky 1971]

Once you start using air or electric tools the need for those sockets becomes apparent, unless of course you spend a couple grand on electric ratchets so you can have one for every socket.................................................

I have two 1/2 air and two cordless impacts, one 3/8 air and one cordless impact, three cordless and one air ratchet. How's that work again?

 

[rockinacummins]

I fall into the weekend warrior category now, but I used to do more regular wrenching on farm and construction equipment and big diesel trucks. I have Tekton deep 1/2” drive impact sockets that have seen quite a bit of abuse by my Ingersoll Rand W7152 cordless impact. I have owned several sets of 1/2” drive chrome sockets, but they almost never saw any use so I do not currently own a complete set. In my experience, if the fastener is big enough to need a 1/2” drive socket, there is generally enough room for the girth of an impact socket. For the same reason, I also do not have any shallow 1/2” drive sockets. I realize this is not the case in many applications, especially automotive.

 

[boom_bap]

to the OP:
I don't have a lot of time right now, so I did not read all the replies here, but:

If you are looking for some 1/2" drive chrome sockets, take a look HERE

Cool thank you! Are Thorsens considered quality?

 

[Dakotadadv8]

DIYer, was using mostly craftsman 1/2 drive impact sockets shallow and deep metric, deep SAE. 90% with ratchet and 10% with impact wrench (Dewalt). Now using more 1/2 drive shallow SO chrome metric 12mm-24mm with extensions if needed or combo wrenches. Overall seldom use impact wrench.

 

[Robinson1]

A cordless impact is game changer. Even with no time constraints on a job. An impact can make a multiple hour ordeal that you dread doing into an easy 10 minute job. I went for years without one. Then one day I had a breakdown on a tractor implement. I laid under that piece of junk for 3 hours in the mud and still didn't have it apart with hand tools. I went to Lowes that night and bought a Dewalt impact. The next morning it took 3 minutes to disassemble.

Sockets, yes absolutely buy the impact sockets. Not only will they last longer but they are safer to use. Even cheap impact sockets will provide good service. Sets are cheaper than singles, buy the sets that fit what you work on. For me thats all the way to 1-1/2" plus metric to 32mm

 

[four.cycle]

boom_bap, for the money, US made Thorsen is just fine. their later Taiwan made stuff - not so much.

 

[boom_bap]

I was thinking about it and the smaller sizes in 1/2 is actually pretty slick. They sell those hex to 1/2 bits for that would work great for the smaller sizes and I could use my little milwaukee hex impact, and bigger sizes would bring out the dewalt 1/2 impact wrench.

I've been looking at these sunex impacts. They seem to be the most cost effective. Question is now:

10-36mm shallows (31 skip) - $87
10-36mm deeps (31skip) - $150
9-24mm, 26, 27, 30 shallow and deep - $112

I'm currently leaning on the shallows, for hex impact use as well as the big dawg, and pick up deeps from harbor freight as needed.

 

[Vicks]

I was thinking about it and the smaller sizes in 1/2 is actually pretty slick. They sell those hex to 1/2 bits for that would work great for the smaller sizes and I could use my little milwaukee hex impact, and bigger sizes would bring out the dewalt 1/2 impact wrench.

I've been looking at these sunex impacts. They seem to be the most cost effective. Question is now:

10-36mm shallows (31 skip) - $87
10-36mm deeps (31skip) - $150
9-24mm, 26, 27, 30 shallow and deep - $112

I'm currently leaning on the shallows, for hex impact use as well as the big dawg, and pick up deeps from harbor freight as needed.

For that kind of money (or maybe a little more), i think you can buy Ko-Ken Impact sockets.

 

[lardy1]

I invested heavily (for a WW) in SK 1/2" drive sockets. Standard and deep. Frankly, with what I know now, I probably would have put that money elsewhere. They rarely come out of the tool box. I think I'd buy impacts first if I had to start over. They get used more in my shop.