I think so! It’s advertised as enamel and I’ve found that it does seem much “tougher“ than regular paint. I’d say it’s better than regular paint and it does resist scratches but it’s probably not 100% scratch proof. I used it on a disc sander and a drill press and it’s held up extremely well. I will say that I’m also careful with my machinery and I try not to bang them up. Still, they’re in a shop setting that I use every day for at least four or more hours. I use the sander and drill press routinely and they still look great. If I restore another old Delta, I will definitely use the Rustoleum smoke grey enamel to finish it.Hi Jim
I'm about to start painting my drill press. Is the Rustoleum you suggest durable and scratch resistant?








It's far from original equipment, but this fleece bag has worked really well for me. I use it on my planer too.As a side note, if anyone out there has a bag for my sawdust shooter I’d be interested to see it.![]()
Thank you Nutria,It's far from original equipment, but this fleece bag has worked really well for me. I use it on my planer too.
This one I have is cast iron which is pretty rareGorgeous-- I saw a bit of it photobombing your sander pics. I need to find one of those rear pork chops.
Haha, I’ve got 5 cast iron bases, one still has to be refurbished, painted and put together for my Tilty that I’ve restored. It has the cast iron belt guard as well.Is that 4 or 5 cast iron pedestals?! Every picture has yet another cast iron pedestal in the background, and each one is perfect, wow.
The Earth may spin off its axis because so much weight is concentrated in your workshop!
That Jack shaft is just too cool! I’m on the hunt again!Here is a 1938 Delta DP220 that I posted last summer - but it gets a curtain call for this Delta Milwaukee thread. There was much discussion as to whether or not the jack shaft assembly was made by Delta or not. This question is still unresolved and may never be figured out. The "Model 14-207" which went by DP220 because of the head casting number, had a very long production run with Delta.
When this lever is forward as shown, the belts are tight. When the lever is released and rotated back, all the tension is released making belt changes quite easy.
Here the lever is back and you can see all the tension is out of the belt, with the two motor mount plates separated.
Here is a picture that GJ member @BradnCali found in a Delta catalog that shows the exact jack shaft assembly being used in manufacturing, most likely during WWII with a woman manning the drill press.
And here is one of the greatest badges ever created.
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Hi JimI think so! It’s advertised as enamel and I’ve found that it does seem much “tougher“ than regular paint. I’d say it’s better than regular paint and it does resist scratches but it’s probably not 100% scratch proof. I used it on a disc sander and a drill press and it’s held up extremely well. I will say that I’m also careful with my machinery and I try not to bang them up. Still, they’re in a shop setting that I use every day for at least four or more hours. I use the sander and drill press routinely and they still look great. If I restore another old Delta, I will definitely use the Rustoleum smoke grey enamel to finish it.
Jim C.
Hi Jim
Decided to try your suggested paint. What did you do for surface prep? Did you use their primer?
I just got my drill press base back from the sand blaster. Planning start painting today. The bare casting is pretty rough. Thinking primer will help smooth the finish.
Yes - that was my first "cut" on my daughter's Cricut machine.@Jim_No_Garage outstanding! Great save. I like what you did there with the date.








Thanks.Gorgeous restoration on that bandsaw Leonard. Top tier in every way.
Can you show a few more pictures of the upper wheel guide assembly handle please? The first time I saw one I thought someone had slapped a handled wheel from another manufacturer on top as Delta primarily used the star knob. But I have since bought a metal cutting Delta bandsaw with that same long upper wheel adjustment handle that reaches above the wheel covers and also has a handled wheel on it. I have found one or two others on the internet and now yours. All primarily 1930s models.
Thank you so much for posting that beautiful band saw.
I ordered my repair parts from Iturra in 2020 so they were in business at that time. I called and requested/ordered a catalog. When the catalog arrived I did the whole "Wish Book" thing and called in my order. Good people.Thanks.
The original part was a small knob.
I upgraded the tracking arm. Put in a high tension spring and added the Spinner wheel.
I bought everything from Iturra Design. He doesn't have a website that I know of. He's an expert on the band saw. His name is Louis Iturra.
Not sure if he's still in business. The last information I have for him was back in 2011. Here's the phone and email: 904-642-2802 [email protected]
Hi JimI glass bead blasted everything. All the stamped steel parts got a coat of primer, a light sanding with a red scotch bright pad, a coat of the enamel paint, a light sanding again with the red scotch bright pad and then a second finish coat of the enamel paint. The cast iron parts got two coats of the enamel paint. No sanding before or between coats. Just two coats of the enamel paint. Prior to painting the cast iron parts and the stamped steel parts, I used compressed air to remove any glass bead/dust, etc. Then I made a few passes over the parts with a heat gun to help remove any moisture left by the compressor. Don‘t linger over the parts with the heat. Just wave it over the parts with a few passes, they should not be warm, and then start painting.
Jim C.