Stripping steel door jamb/frame

[Sarki]

Removing 90 years of paint from steel jambs, front entry door and steel radiator covers throughout apartment. Intend to leave as raw steel but want to ensure no oxidation, especially bathroom doorways.
Hoping to avoid any spray on applications, maybe a wipe/rub on application of something clear just to keep it looking good and protect from moisture/humidity, dirty hands, etc.
Suggestions?

 

[FredWanaker]

can you be more clear? You want to strip down to the bare steel, and then subject it to moisture without any rust forming?

 

[Sarki]

can you be more clear? You want to strip down to the bare steel, and then subject it to moisture without any rust forming?

Sorry for confusion.
I have stripped off all paint and now it is down to the original steel. This is the look I want to maintain but am concerned since It is now bare steel it may oxidize from the normal humidity inside the apartment during summer months.
Thinking maybe a wipe on wax or something similar that won’t affect the appearance but will protect it from oxidizing, especially the bathroom area humidity from shower, etc

 

[Jmonnty]

This is the guide we use at my office for anyone questioning how to finish. Finishing guide

We use a high zinc primer in our shop on all frames.
If it's been in a bathroom for 90 years and still serviceable it's galvannealed, you will want to avoid any strippers/ cleaning agents with a low pH.

 

[Walkers]

Interior you can use a wipe on lacquer from the hardware store meant for wood. It works well and dries fast. You can also use pretty much any Pre Cat Lacquer and brush it on. It flows out pretty well, so brush or foam brush works good. You can also use a catalyzed lacquer like Ever Clear from Sculpt Nouveau https://sculptnouveau.com/collections/sealers/products/ever-clear

As far as wax, you can use a good quality carnuba wax like Mother and it will work well. A step up would be Renaissance Wax. Clean only with a soft wet cloth, and touch up spots that get rubbed off as needed.

I finished a house full of waxed, hot rolled steel two weeks ago, and am finishing up a restaurant with clear coated hot rolled steel this week. Both have their place.

 

[Sarki]

The door frames/jambs have always been painted until I recently stripped off all the paint. They will not be repainted and will remain as pictured above.
Just want to avoid any possibility of any rust forming due to inside apartment humidity.
Is there a wipe on product that will help prevent any oxidation.
The building has strict policies regarding spraying anything with a compressor, etc.

 

[Sarki]

Interior you can use a wipe on lacquer from the hardware store meant for wood. It works well and dries fast. You can also use pretty much any Pre Cat Lacquer and brush it on. It flows out pretty well, so brush or foam brush works good. You can also use a catalyzed lacquer like Ever Clear from Sculpt Nouveau https://sculptnouveau.com/collections/sealers/products/ever-clear

As far as wax, you can use a good quality carnuba wax like Mother and it will work well. A step up would be Renaissance Wax. Clean only with a soft wet cloth, and touch up spots that get rubbed off as needed.

I finished a house full of waxed, hot rolled steel two weeks ago, and am finishing up a restaurant with clear coated hot rolled steel this week. Both have their place.

This is very helpful……thank you!
figured a high quality auto wax might do the trick

 

[Bretny]

Doing a gun blueing on them would look prety cool.

 

[yeldogt]

Think the best and easiest way to go will be spray on polly -- it's easy and durable.

I'm all for the industrial look -- but, I still find those metal jams best painted w/ clean edge to the wall. Polish up the Acorn hinges .... Boy - do I love Acorn hinges. Those single panel doors are so NYC -- love them. Is that Emtec hardware on the lockset? I used the same look square backset coupled with a Stuttgart handle. Think I like yours better !

 

[PoorUB]

Krylon clear.

 

[Sarki]

Think the best and easiest way to go will be spray on polly -- it's easy and durable.

I'm all for the industrial look -- but, I still find those metal jams best painted w/ clean edge to the wall. Polish up the Acorn hinges .... Boy - do I love Acorn hinges. Those single panel doors are so NYC -- love them. Is that Emtec hardware on the lockset? I used the same look square backset coupled with a Stuttgart handle. Think I like yours better !

Was considering rattle can matte poly but afraid it may yellow over time and don’t want to strip it off down the road.
Big fan of the hinges as well. Problem is after 90 years and heavy use on bathroom entry doors the pins wear a bit and cause issues with alignment……and my stock of used ones is drying up!
Ordered a small container of the Renaissance Wax as I’m thinking that may be the perfect sollution.

 

[yeldogt]

Was considering rattle can matte poly but afraid it may yellow over time and don’t want to strip it off down the road.
Big fan of the hinges as well. Problem is after 90 years and heavy use on bathroom entry doors the pins wear a bit and cause issues with alignment……and my stock of used ones is drying up!
Ordered a small container of the Renaissance Wax as I’m thinking that may be the perfect sollution.

The water based does not yellow -- especially inside.
Wax seems problematic.

You can always float a bond issue and replace the hinges

 

[rlitman]

The water based does not yellow -- especially inside...

In one of my kid's rooms, I built in a floating bed. The platform rests on a pair of steel angles that are visible from underneath and not wanting to leave them covered in mill scale, I used a flap wheel on an angle grinder to leave the steel with something like an engine turned finish, and coated them in water based poly I had left over from flooring projects. In testing on scraps, one water based poly I had left rust spots on the steel, while another worked amazingly. So, do test what you plan to use before you ruin a project.

 

[yeldogt]

In one of my kid's rooms, I built in a floating bed. The platform rests on a pair of steel angles that are visible from underneath and not wanting to leave them covered in mill scale, I used a flap wheel on an angle grinder to leave the steel with something like an engine turned finish, and coated them in water based poly I had left over from flooring projects. In testing on scraps, one water based poly I had left rust spots on the steel, while another worked amazingly. So, do test what you plan to use before you ruin a project.

The old school coating we used years ago was Penetrol .... Just wipe it on bare metal. I always have it around as it is used as a pretreatment on exterior wood that has been stripped. Typically historic windows -- liberal coat of Penetrol and in a few hours later when it gets tacky a nice coat of oil based primer from MB. Knits it all together .....

It's a nice soft coating .... it's basically a syn varnish poly .... thinned.

 

[rlitman]

The old school coating we used years ago was Penetrol .... Just wipe it on bare metal. I always have it around as it is used as a pretreatment on exterior wood that has been stripped. Typically historic windows -- liberal coat of Penetrol and in a few hours later when it gets tacky a nice coat of oil based primer from MB. Knits it all together .....

It's a nice soft coating .... it's basically a syn varnish poly .... thinned.

Penetrol and BLO have a lot in common. And like any oil finish, it will yellow.

 

[FredWanaker]

paint with a steel or stainless finish.

 

[yeldogt]

Penetrol and BLO have a lot in common. And like any oil finish, it will yellow.

It's rather light ... can't say I have noticed. It's 1/2 solvent ---- a tiny amount of LO -- 1-2% --- it's mostly modified resin. I'm just not feeling the love with the OP's wax idea.

Nice coat of Farrow and Ball -- Down pipe. Beautiful color.