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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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gmcgeo

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2019
Messages
3,701
finished installing the exhaust
 

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GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
Cleaned-off the top of the table saw so I could use it. Damn horizontal surfaces always seem to gather clutter. What's worse is I know who did it...
 

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
Woke up, went into the garage, turned the heaters on. Went back inside, showered, ate breakfast got dressed.

The caliper slide pins and bolts for the Dakota were slated to arrive today. So I jacked up the truck, threw a stand under it, and removed the tire.

While waiting for UPS, I decided to do some rearranging.

I took the side drawers off the big box and put them back on the left side.

Then took the welder off the workbench and put it on top of the drawers. Put the welding supplies in one of the drawers.

That freed up some countertop space.

Did some more organizing and got some countertop space freed up for some space to do some projects on.

Got 3 of the 4 surround sound speakers hung up as well. Not wired in just yet, as I still keep forgetting to order wire lol


Got the hood of the 72 cleaned off as well.

Pins and bolts showed up so got those in. Truck is now back on the ground again and “drivable”. Still waiting on the last hub bolt to arrive before I’ll take it on the road.

Still have a few totes to go through. But I’m positive that they’re mostly just truck parts at this point. Those can go into the pole barn.

Slowly making progress!
 

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ambenz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
4,237
Location
NW Chicago Suburbs
Cleaned up the rust on my coffee pot warmer as it was really bad!
I used a wire brush on a drill to remove all the rust.
Cleaned up the dust with Isopropyl Alcohol and painted the part after taping it off.
For paint I used 1000F spray paint for engines...whole thing cleaned up good!
0219221822a.jpg
 

rayra

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 1, 2014
Messages
4,724
Location
Escaped from Los Angeles
Got the 6'L gabion basket mostly formed. Need to make a bunch of wire braces across the middle areas, to hold the faces in place. Won't be too critical as I'll be hand-placing / -fitting all the stones in the front face and the back side will have some weed fabric and dirt against it. And I'm using crushed / rip-rap stones, so there shouldn't be much internal pressure against the sides of the basket.

Tomorrow I'll form the rest, in 16'L panels. The two will be joined end to end for a 22'L low wall.

Had to distort the crappy hog rings, they're just cut ends, not beveled, so the tips don't drive past each other. So hands, two sets of pliers, put a little twist on every danged one of them before use.

Still haven't found a nearby source for the 4"-10" stones. Despite seeing them all over the place on commercial lots. I need about 3 tons dropped in front of the house.
 

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Fred.

Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2015
Messages
19
Location
Los Angeles, Ca.
Opened Garage and grabbed a couple tools (and a beer) and changed my glow plug in my truck in the driveway.
In the process of looking for a 8mm socket, I found four 10mm ones.

49 degrees at 7:30 pm in Los Angeles Brrrr!
Diesel $5.05/Gal.
 

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
Hub bolt arrived this afternoon. Totally unexpected as it was slated to arrive February 28th-March 3rd! So that was an unexpected job today.

Took the Dakota out for a test drive, and I gotta say. It drives much better than when I first bought it. Between the non leaking manifolds, the smooth lower steering column shaft, the brand new hub, the recent rear main seal and clutch job, etc, she feels more “solid”. I won’t say the 3.7 is “fast”, but when the manifolds were leaking, she seemed like a dog. High noise/low power.

Now she seems “peppy”. Smooth shifting through all the gears (6 speed manual), and doesn’t sound like a damn rocket taking off under the truck (hub bearing).

Tried the “hold trip odometer reset and turn key on” method to try to see any codes. Got there. No info online except others asking the same questions about the same codes.

Might buy a scanner this weekend or early next week depending on what’s a good deal on FBM or C-List.

But I’m mobile again now! Lol
 

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Last edited:

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,147
Location
Southeastern Pa
Hub bolt arrived this afternoon. Totally unexpected as it was slated to arrive February 28th-March 3rd! So that was an unexpected job today.

Took the Dakota out for a test drive, and I gotta say. It drives much better than when I first bought it. Between the non leaking manifolds, the smooth lower steering column shaft, the brand new hub, the recent rear main seal and clutch job, etc, she feels more “solid”. I won’t say the 3.7 is “fast”, but when the manifolds were leaking, she seemed like a dog. High noise/low power.

Now she seems “peppy”. Smooth shifting through all the gears (6 speed manual), and doesn’t sound like a damn rocket taking off under the truck (hub bearing).

Tried the “hood trip odometer reset and turn key on” method to try to see any codes. Got there. No info online except others asking the same questions about the same codes.

Might buy a scanner this weekend or early next week depending on what’s a good deal on FBM or C-List.

But I’m mobile again now! Lol
What codes?
Mopar usually is turn the ign key on and off 3 times then leave on the third time to read the codes.
 

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
What codes?
Mopar usually is turn the ign key on and off 3 times then leave on the third time to read the codes.
The “codes” in the pics. I tried the key trick. I got nothing. Not even an all clear code. Zip. Zilch. Nada.

Yet the CEL is illuminated.
 

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,147
Location
Southeastern Pa
The “codes” in the pics. I tried the key trick. I got nothing. Not even an all clear code. Zip. Zilch. Nada.

Yet the CEL is illuminated.
P0722 code is stored when the PCM gets an incorrect or irrational input signal from the transmission's output speed sensor.
P0319 means the vehicle's crankshaft position changed due to defective, disconnected, or missing rough road sensors.
That is a strange one needs more research.
P0532 code means. The voltage for the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor is too low, and the powertrain control module has detected this issue.

What is the year, model, engine, trans ?
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,316
Location
The Badlands
The “codes” in the pics. I tried the key trick. I got nothing. Not even an all clear code. Zip. Zilch. Nada.

Yet the CEL is illuminated.

P0722 code is stored when the PCM gets an incorrect or irrational input signal from the transmission's output speed sensor.
P0319 means the vehicle's crankshaft position changed due to defective, disconnected, or missing rough road sensors.
That is a strange one needs more research.
P0532 code means. The voltage for the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor is too low, and the powertrain control module has detected this issue.

What is the year, model, engine, trans ?


This is why I gladly spent $65 on a basic code readers at ears some years ago - Never regretted it!
 

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
P0722 code is stored when the PCM gets an incorrect or irrational input signal from the transmission's output speed sensor.
P0319 means the vehicle's crankshaft position changed due to defective, disconnected, or missing rough road sensors.
That is a strange one needs more research.
P0532 code means. The voltage for the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor is too low, and the powertrain control module has detected this issue.

What is the year, model, engine, trans ?
It’s a 2007 Dodge Dakota 3.7 V6 6 speed manual 4x4 extended cab

P0722 The trans has been removed recently for a clutch job and rear main engine seal/oil pan


P0319 That one IS interesting, as I could have SWORN that the last couple times it hesitated, happened right after hitting bumps in the road. I thought it was my imagination, as the hesitation is absolutely random, and happens on smooth roads as well.

P0532 The AC works absolutely amazing though. No issues with the AC or Heat.


Hmm…
 
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Levaughn

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 17, 2015
Messages
1,406
Location
NY
I found some solid wood (3X2 each piece slats) thrown out while driving home. I picked them up to make slots to store my Cordless drills. I purchased the top white half at an Estate Sale lats week. The bottom half I already had. It had a second shelf for the top which I removed to store the drills. (fourth picture top) I will use it for a door..
 

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Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
This is why I gladly spent $65 on a basic code readers at ears some years ago - Never regretted it!
I had a $99 Bosch I bought from Oreillys a few years back.

While I was away in California, they broke into my garage, and took basically everything worth reselling. Only thing that saved them from stealing the whole toolbox was that it was in a corner, with the non rolling 72 D100 in front of it. They would have had to drag it out of the way, and then drag the box out. I guess it was too much work for them. Or maybe it would have been too much work for quick money, or, if I’m correct in who did it, they only had a car. No way to load the box to go pawn it.

But yeah. I’ll be buying another code reader, but I’m taking this time to “upgrade”.
 

619DioFan

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
3,617
Location
San Diego , Ca.
Finished a repurposed welding cart for the Miller 211: materials - 2 drawer filing cabinet, scrap metal, cheap small hand truck, handle from a scrapped BBQ grill
IMG_0357.jpgIMG_0356.jpgIMG_0355.jpg
That looks really good. if I hadn't already bought the hf mig welder cart ( the small one ) I would copy this.
 

Wrench97

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2018
Messages
12,147
Location
Southeastern Pa
It’s a 2007 Dodge Dakota 3.7 V6 6 speed manual 4x4 extended cab

P0722 The trans has been removed recently for a clutch job and rear main engine seal/oil pan


P0319 That one IS interesting, as I could have SWORN that the last couple times it hesitated, happened right after hitting bumps in the road. I thought it was my imagination, as the hesitation is absolutely random, and happens on smooth roads as well.

P0532 The AC works absolutely amazing though. No issues with the AC or Heat.


Hmm…
P0319 is not a code normally used by Mopar, but it does have to do with the crankshaft position sensor.
The Crank sensor lives on the left rear of the engine and the harness also runs to the trans output speed snesor.
Since the trans was just out my first step would be to look for loose connectors, damaged wiring, loose or disconnected ground wires, damaged sensors.
The A/C pressure code will not set a CEL, nor effect the driveability, it may be from having the sensor unplugged or again loose connectors, damaged sensors bad grounds, I would not be troubleshooting it as long as the A/C is working.

A P0319 trouble code belongs to the category of codes that include ignition system codes. The reason for that is that sometimes, the "rough road hardware" is actually an interpretation from sensors that have basically detected that the engine's crankshaft moves in an unexpected manner.
 

619DioFan

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2013
Messages
3,617
Location
San Diego , Ca.
I had a $99 Bosch I bought from Oreillys a few years back.

While I was away in California, they broke into my garage, and took basically everything worth reselling. Only thing that saved them from stealing the whole toolbox was that it was in a corner, with the non rolling 72 D100 in front of it. They would have had to drag it out of the way, and then drag the box out. I guess it was too much work for them. Or maybe it would have been too much work for quick money, or, if I’m correct in who did it, they only had a car. No way to load the box to go pawn it.

But yeah. I’ll be buying another code reader, but I’m taking this time to “upgrade”.
I boughy an INNOVA scan tool for use on obd2 stuff ( which yours is ) it does quite a bit and reads live data. I believe I paid 150.00. INNOVA has various levels of them. I am just a DIYer so this works well for me.
 

Zeke

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
What I did today is satisfy a 8 day old, long running problem (journey) of wiring a 1944 South Bend metal lathe to the wall power.


The GJer's are the best.
 

Mikeske

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Messages
2,131
Location
Washington State
I attached the front license plate to the bumper using 4 self tapping screws. I hate to be mess with on the stupid stuff so I just put it on where it will fit. Nobody is going to be able to read it as low as it is but it is there and meets state law requiring a front plate.tempImageyJjmnN.png
 

jeep63

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Messages
264
Location
Maryland, USA
I attached the front license plate to the bumper using 4 self tapping screws. I hate to be mess with on the stupid stuff so I just put it on where it will fit. Nobody is going to be able to read it as low as it is but it is there and meets state law requiring a front plate.tempImageyJjmnN.png
MD has the same law…. My Jeep front plate is just like yours And I have ever been hassled

58576B53-29A1-4F46-A7B0-2BAAE7587EB9.jpeg
 

Mikeske

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2017
Messages
2,131
Location
Washington State
MD has the same law…. My Jeep front plate is just like yours And I have ever been hassled

58576B53-29A1-4F46-A7B0-2BAAE7587EB9.jpeg
Yes it is easier that way having the plate on the front and I was just following the requirements to have the plate there as you also in your state. I found a spot that is slightly off centered that I put the plate there and it will work, I am considering drilling out the holes and using nut and bolts. I probably do that later if any of the self tapping screws back off.
 

kenners

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 16, 2009
Messages
352
Location
SE Wa State
I attached the front license plate to the bumper using 4 self tapping screws. I hate to be mess with on the stupid stuff so I just put it on where it will fit. Nobody is going to be able to read it as low as it is but it is there and meets state law requiring a front plate.tempImageyJjmnN.png
I mounted my license plate on a Warn roller fairlead cover. First one either fell off or someone stole. Second one ended up getting attached with two large cables that would allow it to hang (and not drag the ground) when removed for using the winch.
 

BMWBOB

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2018
Messages
274
Location
Washington State
That looks really good. if I hadn't already bought the hf mig welder cart ( the small one ) I would copy this.
Thanks - not actually quite done. I'm going to add some hangers for hand grinder consumables, wire brush, and slag hammer, fabricate a tip holder for the MIG, and a few other do-dads. Sure, I could buy a magnetic holder for 5$ but what's the fun in that?

The cart that this sits on is extendable, so when I add the bottles I can just stretch it out. Also thinking about a shelf over the top of the welder for the helmet. It is solar so I want it to get some rays while I'm not using it, but i want to keep it in the box it came with as it has a window, and I don't want to clean the dang thing every time I use it - its VERY dusty around here.

The only money I spent on this project was a can of spray paint...
 

DGersic

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2017
Messages
6,372
Location
DeKalb, IL
Hub bolt arrived this afternoon. Totally unexpected as it was slated to arrive February 28th-March 3rd! So that was an unexpected job today.

Took the Dakota out for a test drive, and I gotta say. It drives much better than when I first bought it. Between the non leaking manifolds, the smooth lower steering column shaft, the brand new hub, the recent rear main seal and clutch job, etc, she feels more “solid”. I won’t say the 3.7 is “fast”, but when the manifolds were leaking, she seemed like a dog. High noise/low power.

Now she seems “peppy”. Smooth shifting through all the gears (6 speed manual), and doesn’t sound like a damn rocket taking off under the truck (hub bearing).

Tried the “hold trip odometer reset and turn key on” method to try to see any codes. Got there. No info online except others asking the same questions about the same codes.

Might buy a scanner this weekend or early next week depending on what’s a good deal on FBM or C-List.

But I’m mobile again now! Lol

I have a big list of P codes, but nothing for S or C.
 
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