555
Well-known member
Aired up tires! Stained a hiking stick I made for my sister in law. Listened to classic 60s rock while I pondered doing nothing.
Thank you, Mike.Very nice.
Is this your home shop or the shop where you work full-time?
Thank you, Mike.
This is my home shop in which I try to work 2 days/week. Work the other 5 days at a large fleet.


What codes?Hub bolt arrived this afternoon. Totally unexpected as it was slated to arrive February 28th-March 3rd! So that was an unexpected job today.
Took the Dakota out for a test drive, and I gotta say. It drives much better than when I first bought it. Between the non leaking manifolds, the smooth lower steering column shaft, the brand new hub, the recent rear main seal and clutch job, etc, she feels more “solid”. I won’t say the 3.7 is “fast”, but when the manifolds were leaking, she seemed like a dog. High noise/low power.
Now she seems “peppy”. Smooth shifting through all the gears (6 speed manual), and doesn’t sound like a damn rocket taking off under the truck (hub bearing).
Tried the “hood trip odometer reset and turn key on” method to try to see any codes. Got there. No info online except others asking the same questions about the same codes.
Might buy a scanner this weekend or early next week depending on what’s a good deal on FBM or C-List.
But I’m mobile again now! Lol
The “codes” in the pics. I tried the key trick. I got nothing. Not even an all clear code. Zip. Zilch. Nada.What codes?
Mopar usually is turn the ign key on and off 3 times then leave on the third time to read the codes.
P0722 code is stored when the PCM gets an incorrect or irrational input signal from the transmission's output speed sensor.The “codes” in the pics. I tried the key trick. I got nothing. Not even an all clear code. Zip. Zilch. Nada.
Yet the CEL is illuminated.
The “codes” in the pics. I tried the key trick. I got nothing. Not even an all clear code. Zip. Zilch. Nada.
Yet the CEL is illuminated.
P0722 code is stored when the PCM gets an incorrect or irrational input signal from the transmission's output speed sensor.
P0319 means the vehicle's crankshaft position changed due to defective, disconnected, or missing rough road sensors.
That is a strange one needs more research.
P0532 code means. The voltage for the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor is too low, and the powertrain control module has detected this issue.
What is the year, model, engine, trans ?
It’s a 2007 Dodge Dakota 3.7 V6 6 speed manual 4x4 extended cabP0722 code is stored when the PCM gets an incorrect or irrational input signal from the transmission's output speed sensor.
P0319 means the vehicle's crankshaft position changed due to defective, disconnected, or missing rough road sensors.
That is a strange one needs more research.
P0532 code means. The voltage for the A/C refrigerant pressure sensor is too low, and the powertrain control module has detected this issue.
What is the year, model, engine, trans ?
I had a $99 Bosch I bought from Oreillys a few years back.This is why I gladly spent $65 on a basic code readers at ears some years ago - Never regretted it!
P0319 is not a code normally used by Mopar, but it does have to do with the crankshaft position sensor.It’s a 2007 Dodge Dakota 3.7 V6 6 speed manual 4x4 extended cab
P0722 The trans has been removed recently for a clutch job and rear main engine seal/oil pan
P0319 That one IS interesting, as I could have SWORN that the last couple times it hesitated, happened right after hitting bumps in the road. I thought it was my imagination, as the hesitation is absolutely random, and happens on smooth roads as well.
P0532 The AC works absolutely amazing though. No issues with the AC or Heat.
Hmm…
A P0319 trouble code belongs to the category of codes that include ignition system codes. The reason for that is that sometimes, the "rough road hardware" is actually an interpretation from sensors that have basically detected that the engine's crankshaft moves in an unexpected manner.
I boughy an INNOVA scan tool for use on obd2 stuff ( which yours is ) it does quite a bit and reads live data. I believe I paid 150.00. INNOVA has various levels of them. I am just a DIYer so this works well for me.I had a $99 Bosch I bought from Oreillys a few years back.
While I was away in California, they broke into my garage, and took basically everything worth reselling. Only thing that saved them from stealing the whole toolbox was that it was in a corner, with the non rolling 72 D100 in front of it. They would have had to drag it out of the way, and then drag the box out. I guess it was too much work for them. Or maybe it would have been too much work for quick money, or, if I’m correct in who did it, they only had a car. No way to load the box to go pawn it.
But yeah. I’ll be buying another code reader, but I’m taking this time to “upgrade”.
MD has the same law…. My Jeep front plate is just like yours And I have ever been hassled

Yes it is easier that way having the plate on the front and I was just following the requirements to have the plate there as you also in your state. I found a spot that is slightly off centered that I put the plate there and it will work, I am considering drilling out the holes and using nut and bolts. I probably do that later if any of the self tapping screws back off.
I mounted my license plate on a Warn roller fairlead cover. First one either fell off or someone stole. Second one ended up getting attached with two large cables that would allow it to hang (and not drag the ground) when removed for using the winch.
Thanks - not actually quite done. I'm going to add some hangers for hand grinder consumables, wire brush, and slag hammer, fabricate a tip holder for the MIG, and a few other do-dads. Sure, I could buy a magnetic holder for 5$ but what's the fun in that?That looks really good. if I hadn't already bought the hf mig welder cart ( the small one ) I would copy this.
Hub bolt arrived this afternoon. Totally unexpected as it was slated to arrive February 28th-March 3rd! So that was an unexpected job today.
Took the Dakota out for a test drive, and I gotta say. It drives much better than when I first bought it. Between the non leaking manifolds, the smooth lower steering column shaft, the brand new hub, the recent rear main seal and clutch job, etc, she feels more “solid”. I won’t say the 3.7 is “fast”, but when the manifolds were leaking, she seemed like a dog. High noise/low power.
Now she seems “peppy”. Smooth shifting through all the gears (6 speed manual), and doesn’t sound like a damn rocket taking off under the truck (hub bearing).
Tried the “hold trip odometer reset and turn key on” method to try to see any codes. Got there. No info online except others asking the same questions about the same codes.
Might buy a scanner this weekend or early next week depending on what’s a good deal on FBM or C-List.
But I’m mobile again now! Lol
S and C only show up on the mopar dash they are P codes.I have a big list of P codes, but nothing for S or C.
