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Digital calipers - something between HF and Mitutoyo?

mike93lx

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I need a new set of 6" digital calipers for just general use. No machining or particularly high precision. I've owned HF in the past and they work well enough, but wonder if there is something higher quality without splashing for something like Mitutoyo or Starrett.
 
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mike93lx

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Fowler 54-101-600-1

I still have a cracked screen pair from my machinist days that still works. Probably have 10,000 uses on it and it still matches a 1-2-3 block

Careful as there are other Fowler models that are a bit not great
Thanks. I saw fowler on an Amazon search but hadn't heard of the before
 

corn chip

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i see no reason to buy fowler.
mitu digimatic 6" are only $119 frree ship from amazon and shipped from msi viking which is a authorized mitu dealer
 
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mike93lx

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i see no reason to buy fowler.
mitu digimatic 6" are only $119 frree ship from amazon and shipped from msi viking which is a authorized mitu dealer
Looks like around 60-70 reasons to me.

Unless you want to subsidize the purchase...

Will the Mitutoyo more accurately measure the length of a bolt I need to grab at home depot? Or more accurately scribe a cut line in a piece of metal?
 

Packard V8

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For home shop use, most of the cheapo digital calipers are made in the same Chicom factory and are good enough. Yes, they burn through batteries, but order a card of replacement batteries when you order the caliper and don't give it another thought.

If one is a working professional or cost is not a consideration, then Mitutoyo is a good choice.

jack vines
 

ItsNemo

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Looks like around 60-70 reasons to me.

Unless you want to subsidize the purchase...

Will the Mitutoyo more accurately measure the length of a bolt I need to grab at home depot? Or more accurately scribe a cut line in a piece of metal?

then buy chinese calipers. dont matter to me bro

corn chip is right...the Fowler or other mid-price calipers are not worth it over a $20 chinese one. Either by the cheap disposable ones or buy a Mitutoyo.
 

tjansson

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When I was a engineering undergrad I bought some Fowlers. They fit the budget, and I found them accurate and served me well for 6-7 years, then started getting flaky and losing track of their position. I replaced them with Mitutoyo's. The in/mm button is annoyingly hard to press and I'm always switching back and forth. Around our office and prototyping shop it's mostly cheap no-name calipers. You can tell a few things about a mechanical engineer by whether they show up with their own calipers or not... (kids these days).
 

Benito

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Don't be surprised by the answers in this thread. Same result each times it pops up

25% People who will only own Mitutoyo saying to buy Mitutoyo because everything under the price range is the same trash
25% People who own the cheapies agreeing because it means their $15 pair work the same as ones up to $120
25% Agreeing because they are regurgitating what they read from the last 10 threads that said the same
25% People who have used digital calipers for decades, professionally, all different types, tell you some that work but have their limits and admit Mitutoyo is very good though

It will read like 3/4 say Mitutoyo all the way. Because it's the internet and some soft hands bloke with a nothing beyond a tape measure to his name's opinion is equal.

Carry on
 

RTM

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I have a plastic framed Fowler for my abuse. Bought it about 15 years ago when I was measuring surfaces (glass and highly polished SS) where people did not want me to even think about scratching the working surface. On its 2nd battery about 2 years ago. Not an absolute zero, have to rezero it if you turn it off while open.


Then I have vintage micrometers and a vintage SS dial caliper from other brands for real precision work.

I recently picked up a HF Cen-Tech digital, and was surprised it's battery has held up for almost a year without removing it. Guess there is a decent one in their stable.

Edit UPdate 10/2/2022: just changed the battery in the Cen-Tech today, display was flashing. The one in it was an ebay special "maxell" (pretty sure its a fake). Put a "made in China" "bought at Lowes or HD" 50 battery back of watch batteries. Check back in later.

Also, just scored a General three mode SS one , can't get the battery cover open to see what it uses, it just powered up, so will check back later.
 
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vwpieces

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Buy something with CR2032 battery first off. Second one the Fractional setting is extremely useful, more so than you will realise till you own a set.
Had a set of these for 10years now and use them the most out of the 8+ sets I own.
Battery life is awesome, they have survived grinding grit, over spray, a couple drops and dirty hands.
Large display, Range: 0-6" Accuracy: 0.001" Repeatability: 0.0005" Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm/1/128"
And they Zero and hold zero on first try

41nIeHOpfnL._SL1000_.jpg
61eZuNfQu9L._SL1000_.jpg
 
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mike93lx

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marak

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I do not own any Mitutoyo. I have precision calipers for machining. For the wood shop I have several versions, including the iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6". These piss me off every time I use them because the battery leads make poor contact with the battery and the screen constantly fades to unreadable. I probably just need to open them up for what may be a simple fix, just haven't done it yet. I also have the General Tools version with fractional readout. I find these work pretty well and am happy with their performance for measuring to 1/64 to 1/128 of an inch. I also have a HF version that is pretty bad. In hindsight, what I spent on these three calipers could have been put towards a pretty nice pair of calipers; however, had I done that they would never have made their way to the wood shop or grinding area. I am happy with the General Tools version and would recommend them to a friend.
 

corn chip

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when $119 for a qaulity tool breaks my wallet ill be having a serious talk with myself
 
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mike93lx

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I do not own any Mitutoyo. I have precision calipers for machining. For the wood shop I have several versions, including the iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6". These piss me off every time I use them because the battery leads make poor contact with the battery and the screen constantly fades to unreadable. I probably just need to open them up for what may be a simple fix, just haven't done it yet. I also have the General Tools version with fractional readout. I find these work pretty well and am happy with their performance for measuring to 1/64 to 1/128 of an inch. I also have a HF version that is pretty bad. In hindsight, what I spent on these three calipers could have been put towards a pretty nice pair of calipers; however, had I done that they would never have made their way to the wood shop or grinding area. I am happy with the General Tools version and would recommend them to a friend.
Thanks.
 

Citation

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Buy something with CR2032 battery first off. Second one the Fractional setting is extremely useful, more so than you will realise till you own a set.
Had a set of these for 10years now and use them the most out of the 8+ sets I own.
Battery life is awesome, they have survived grinding grit, over spray, a couple drops and dirty hands.
Large display, Range: 0-6" Accuracy: 0.001" Repeatability: 0.0005" Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm/1/128"
And they Zero and hold zero on first try

41nIeHOpfnL._SL1000_.jpg
61eZuNfQu9L._SL1000_.jpg
Yes, that pair of iGaging calipers or this iGaging model that uses an absolute vs relative scale
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The difference is most calipers use a relative scale. To measure displacement they count "ticks" from where you zeroed the caliper to where you are. So long as you don't lose power or move too fast this works fine. The down side is when you power the device off. It either looses zero or the measuring system has to be powered up even when the screen is off.

The alternative is an "absolute" positioning system. Mitutoyo was the first to have this. Think of each tick having it's own number. So the calipers just have to remember the number at the origin/zero After than your current position is just "current tick # - origin #". The calipers don't lose position when powered down as they just need to remember a single number.

Anyway, the iGaging absolute calipers appear to be a model that other companies can brand/sell. I've seen a set branded as "Procheck".

These are 80-90% as good as Mitutoyo including good finish quality and smooth action. The typical HF or $10 stainless steal calipers often have very poor finish. My first set of $20 calipers from 15 years back had fit almost as good as my work Mitutoyos. The next set I bought were from HF and it was clear they were much rougher. All the iGagings I've used are good. For the money it's an easy recommendation.
 
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qqzj

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I picked up a nearly new Husky caliper from CL for $5. Works for me just the same as a $120 one. Actually, it is even better than the $120 because I don't care much about the tool. The tool works for me. Not the other way around.
 
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mike93lx

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I picked up a nearly new Husky caliper from CL for $5. Works for me just the same as a $120 one. Actually, it is even better than the $120 because I don't care much about the tool. The tool works for me. Not the other way around.
How dare you! Too poor to buy the best!

Oh wait, I know nothing about your financial circumstances...
 

qqzj

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How dare you! Too poor to buy the best!

Oh wait, I know nothing about your financial circumstances...
You don't have to. You just need to know your own financial circumstances.

When you don't really need a fancy tool, but you have the budget for it, just think about whether it keeps its value or will even appreciate. If yes, go for it. Otherwise, no. Buying an expensive and unnecessary tool that depreciate like a rock is pure stupidity.
 

Shop-hound

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I have both. 2 pairs of cheapies that get used 90% of the time, work just fine and I don’t sweat it if they get some welding spatter or knocked off the bench, borrowed etc. Bought them years ago and still work fine. Recently bought a nice Mitutoyo for my lathe/mill that only comes out for accurate stuff.

if you’re not machining, get the cheap and cheerful. If you end up going down the rabbit hole with this stuff later and are stepping up the game like a few of us, then get the Mitutoyos and you will still have beaters for measuring bolts and opening boxes (kidding, dont ever use calipers for opening boxes. I reamed out a young Engineer for that years ago)
 

B_Bimmer

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I like quality tools, I'm far from broke and dumb. I have a cheapo harbor fright that is one of the few tools I have bought there that still works, and a mitutoyo which is an absolute joy to use. If I only got one the mitutoyo would be it. It's just perfect.
 

HPRifleman

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At work I have used the same 8" digital Mitutoyo for years. But that's something that helps me make decisions that keep me employed and it gets professionally calibrated periodically. At home I have an old Midway brand (cheap Chinese generic) dial caliper that I bought with some reloading equipment. I may even have one with a vernier scale lying around somewhere.

Both have worked well for their intended usage but I have recently thought about getting a new one for reloading. In that case I would probably get a Mitutoyo digital. They're not much money and I'm willing to pay the price for a measurement tool I will probably use for the next 20-30 years.

For the OP, I think a cheap dial caliper would probably work for your intended usage unless you absolutely have to have digital.
 

vwpieces

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when $119 for a qaulity tool breaks my wallet ill be having a serious talk with myself
Mitutoyo $120
Igaging $30
HMMM $90 I have to use on other things.

Todays deliveries:
4 Gallons of WD40 bought for $52 Delivered. Retail would be around $90+
Pressure Washer extension wands and set of 5 tips. Stainless and brass $14. ONE tip around here is $10 Each
5in 24 grit 3M grinding discs, 25PK for $10 Retail? $50+
25ft roll of SJEOOW Southwire 14/3 for $14, Retail $24 and this is to repair a cord reel that would cost $100 to replace.
Total spent today $90... Hmmm... Exactly what I saved Not spending needlessly.

Or perhaps I should have just paid retail on all of the above (including Mitutoyo) and threw out the old cord reel for a $100 new one at the tune of (rough estimate) $430 total.

Spend money as you see fit.
My $120 went pretty far today, just for an example. No gas spent or wear and tear on my vehicle either. And time save running from store to store to purchase the items above with less time spent price shopping. No Credit card bills here.
 
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Terra Nova

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For your uses I see no reason to venture out from the HF cheapies. Not like you're going to find US built ones anyway.

I have and use HF ones pretty much for what you're planning on, they work just fine. For any precision or machining work I do we're stocked to the gills with Mitutoyo at work so I use them when it's called for.

A set of calipers is only as good as their calibration though, just because they're name brand and return to zero doesn't mean they're good. For anything important a reference check should be performed beforehand.
 

vwpieces

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Calipers have their place, high precision repeatable accuracy isn't it.
Many other tools for many scenarios.
But that is just another reason I do not need to spend $120 on a caliper. Micrometer or dial gauge... Yes.
 
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mike93lx

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I like quality tools, I'm far from broke and dumb. I have a cheapo harbor fright that is one of the few tools I have bought there that still works, and a mitutoyo which is an absolute joy to use. If I only got one the mitutoyo would be it. It's just perfect.
I love quality tools, no argument there.

I also love having inexpensive options when appropriate
 

JradM

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iGaging. Didn't we just do this thread?

It's easy to spend more money on calipers than the HF cheapies and still not get anything better. The only pair that actually seems better than the cheap ones, but doesn't cost near-Mitutoyo money is the iGaging.

Otherwise if you don't need something better than the cheap ones, buy the cheap ones.
 

corn chip

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there should be nothing more to say. HF work well enough according to your own words. tons of people in this thread have agreed. whats there left to decide ?
 

bob15

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Looks like around 60-70 reasons to me.

Unless you want to subsidize the purchase...

Will the Mitutoyo more accurately measure the length of a bolt I need to grab at home depot? Or more accurately scribe a cut line in a piece of metal?

You should layer some more judgement into your life.

Always buying the "best" doesn't get you anywhere but broke and is dumb

Buying the right tool is smart.
Who is really being smart here?

Your example of why you are try to justify buying calipers is ridiculous at best, and not very smart. If you are measuring bolt lengths, a tape measure or steel rule work just as well (and typically easier to do it) and are less expensive than your cheeepy calipers, not to mention they will never fail or die on you. And if you are using a caliper to scribe a line in steel, again the wrong tool for the job.

So who is being smart here? Hint: it isn't you.

And if you really want calipers, buy the Starrett 120-6. They never fail.
 
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mike93lx

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Who is really being smart here?

Your example of why you are try to justify buying calipers is ridiculous at best, and not very smart. If you are measuring bolt lengths, a tape measure or steel rule work just as well (and typically easier to do it) and are less expensive than your cheeepy calipers, not to mention they will never fail or die on you. And if you are using a caliper to scribe a line in steel, again the wrong tool for the job.

So who is being smart here? Hint: it isn't you.

And if you really want calipers, buy the Starrett 120-6. They never fail.
Wow. You win. I give up
 

BillK

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Mike,
I have a couple of $50 Blue Point ones I got from the Snap On truck. They are probably the same as any others in that price range. I don't use them for any real precision but they are used probably 10 times a day for quick measurements.

I used them this afternoon to check a couple of Subaru heads to see if they had been resurfaced too far already. This morning a guy came in and asked me to look at a crankshaft for him to see if it was repairable. It took me about ten seconds with the calipers to tell him it was junk. They are also great for measuring small hole depths. Converting metric measurements to inches and so on and so on and so on.

They are probably one of the most versatile tools I own. I personally do not see a need for anything better than those for 99% of people including me in my shop. If I want an accurate measurement I get out a micrometer.
 

Citation

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For those who want Mitutoyo and are patient, keep an eBay eye out for ST Industries brand calipers. They used to be rebranded Mitutoyos, the models from the late 90's with the small screens and buttons on the bottom side vs right under the screen. I picked up a NOS set for $30. I didn't need them but it was a great price and I love Mitutoyos.
 
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mike93lx

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Mike,
I have a couple of $50 Blue Point ones I got from the Snap On truck. They are probably the same as any others in that price range. I don't use them for any real precision but they are used probably 10 times a day for quick measurements.

I used them this afternoon to check a couple of Subaru heads to see if they had been resurfaced too far already. This morning a guy came in and asked me to look at a crankshaft for him to see if it was repairable. It took me about ten seconds with the calipers to tell him it was junk. They are also great for measuring small hole depths. Converting metric measurements to inches and so on and so on and so on.

They are probably one of the most versatile tools I own. I personally do not see a need for anything better than those for 99% of people including me in my shop. If I want an accurate measurement I get out a micrometer.
Appreciate the response Bill
 

M635_Guy

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I bought a cheapo pair for $8 years ago, and they're precise enough for general garage stuff.

If I ever get a wild hair to upgrade, I'll compare whatever is available to the HF Quinn
 
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