Did tekton warranty the tw?
I'm still not understanding what the problem is. Turn until you get resistance, note the location of the bar, then turn the required distance - 1/8 turn for 45 degrees, 1/6 turn for 60 degrees, 1/4 turn for 90 degrees, etc. .
With great access this probably gets to close enough. Trying to get to some torque to yield bolt deep in an engine bay where you have to ratchet is a slightly different matter.
good input. You are reminding me that I need swap out the alkaline batteries to those Energizer lithiums in all my digital torque wrenches.
Completely agree with you. If you’re tightening lug nuts once or twice a year, you have no business owning a digital torque wrench.you made one or two good points but let me mention a few things you forgot.
not all mechanical clicker style use a stone age era dial handle with impossible to read numbers ,that must be dialed back to zero each time.
converting measuring systems could be a problem if the wrench scale only reads in one measuring system. but many wrenches have dual scale however and any good service manual lists each fastener torq value in multiple systems. so i think converting would very rarely be a problem , atleast in my experience.
easier to read display ?, again , not all mechanical clickers have crappy hard to read dial handles. some have easy to read sliding scales.
torq+angle: this is a valid point for a full time mechanic dealing with angles on a regular basis. weekend warriors very rarely run into tty fasteners and in the rare event they do , a simple work around ( like marking bolt head ) can be used.
accuracy: i see this as a moot point if the wrench in question is of high qaulity. ill attach the cert from one of my stahlwille. you can see its accuracy and deviation is plenty good enough for all but the rocket scientist building a spaceship.
dont get me wrong , im sure digital torq wrenches are badass and likely many of us would have them if we were in the mechanical field but at $600-$2500 ,us poor peasants simply cant afford it just to tighten lug nuts twice a year
Your pros/cons only compared dial clickers with digitals. There's no need to turn back to zero a split beam clicker and they are very accurate for LONG periods of heavy/professional use. Same goes for beam style. Digitals haven't been around long enough to realistically compare to the proven reliability of split beam and beam torque wrenches.
I considered split beams before I made my decision on the TechAngles, and I like them a lot. If I still owned a clicker, it would definitely be a split beam. The only thing I didn’t like about them is that they only work in clockwise rotation, and I do occasionally come across reverse threaded fasteners. Again, this is just my use case, and everyone’s is different.
The first time, yes, no questions asked.
I want an one of those Norbar style etorks, but I wish they came in metric.
Look at the scale. The metric (N-m) scale is in red with the SAE in black. There is no such thing as a metric style Norbar torque wrench as they are unisex. Both scales are just as easily read.
But the single digit dial on the very bottom is for ft lb, no? I'd still have to convert if I wanted, say 113 Nm
Exactly.
NO. I took a picture of my actual eTorq wrench below. The Newton Meter scale in is Red and the ft-lb scale is in Black. The scale at the very bottom in the first picture is a ft-lb vernier. On the second picture I've set the wrench to 50 N-m which corresponds to about 37 ft-lb.But the single digit dial on the very bottom is for ft lb, no? I'd still have to convert if I wanted, say 113 Nm
No I understand, but if I wanted 51Nm, I can't just dial it in. Just like how you have it set at ~36.9ft lbs. Granted, 5Nm resolution should be enough, and it's a much more useful scale than your typical micrometer torque wrench.
www.protorquetools.com
If this was the fair and I was running a guess your age booth, I'd put you somewhere older than Methuselah.
It's annoying, but not several hundred dollars annoying, for me.
You’re getting ridiculous. The lower value e-Torq wrenches have finer scales as well. The one I took pictures of is 20-100 ft-lb model. They make lower max value wrenches in both 1/4" and 3/8" drive. I've tried to help you but now I'm done with you. If you can't figure something this simple out nothing I can tell you is going to help you understand it.No I understand, but if I wanted 51Nm, I can't just dial it in. Just like how you have it set at ~36.9ft lbs. Granted, 5Nm resolution should be enough, and it's a much more useful scale than your typical micrometer torque wrench.
3/8'' Dr 7.5 - 37.5 Ft Lbs / 10 - 50 Nm Norbar Adj Torque Wrench - 15012
**Product Name:** Norbar 15012 Adjustable Torque Wrench **Brand:** Norbar **Store Name:** Pro Torque Tools **Description:** Experience precision with the Norbar 15012 Micrometer Adjustable Torque "click" Wrench, featuring a 3/8" Automotive Reversible Ratchet Drive. This tool boasts a dual...
This Norbar, you can dial in 11.5 Nm no problems
I guess I'll grab a 3/8" one - for the price I see no better alternatives and you've recommended them for a while
Yes, wanted to mention - my old Focus has in total 16 lug nuts. By clicking it 10 times on every lug nut, instead of using it 16 times he used it 160 times. If he has... 15 cars per day, and most new ones have 5 lug nuts, he'd need to use it 300 times if he clicked once, but he uses it 3000 times instead. If I go on, he'd need to use it 6000 times per month but he does that in two days and clicks it 60000 times per month.
You'd explode if you saw me do my semi truck. 10 lug nuts per wheel, I do the star once then go around twice just to make sure I didn't miss any.
Ah that wouldn't bother me, it's understandable and has a reasoning to check your work. The way that particular mechanic did it was to tighten until it clicked, then he just juggled it on that same nut. Like some people shift manual cars, and they keep viciously shaking the shift lever while in neutral. He didn't re-check in the end if he tightened all of them.
Many, especially TOPTUL's torque wrenches, made in Asia or in Europe are uni-directional. They only work on right handed fasteners so using them as a breaker bar to remove things is completely acceptable as nothing inside of the wrench is moving. I use the one I've got that's about 30 inches long for this purpose when I do head bolts and it doesn't bother it at all. I asked TOPTUL why their torque wrenches only work in one direction and they said so that you can take things off in the other direction.
On the other hand, reverse-threaded hardware shouldn’t exist. It’s proof of bad engineering. The correct way to stop a screw from backing out by precession is not to reverse the thread so it frets anyway but tends to self-tighten. It’s to stop it moving, i.e. eliminate radial loads on the screw.
It's not bad engineering, sometimes you have space constraints or budget constraints that require you to make the most out of what you have, and if by using left handed threads you manage to cheaply solve your issue without problems, it's brilliant engineering.
