Working on a 4 post lift?

[bighitbiker3]

I decided to edit my question because I think this is more valuable - for those of you who work on your 4 post lift how do you like it? Are the rails a big issue when working on suspension?

Original:

I've seen a couple threads from ~5+ years ago but wanted to bring it up again to see if anyone had been storing cars on a 2 post lift? The primary use of my garage is going to be storing cars and wrenchingand I need one set to stack. I currently have a project car that will be on top most of the time and completion of it is probably 1.5 years out and will be on the lift most of the time. I'd reallyyy love to have a 2 post just due to how easy it makes working on pretty much any part of the car. It also has a much smaller footprint in the garage.

There are 2 that look to possibly be meant for this. The Mohawk system and the Challenger one. The challenger only allows 7000lbs anything I'd put on that would be max 5000lbs. The challenger one seems nicer because you could drive onto it though.

There's also the option to just let the suspension hang and not engage the wheels while storing it. Is the jury still out on that?

I do know that there are sliding jacks for 4 posts, but I've never used one and can't imagine it'd be as nice as working on a 2 post...

Would love to hear about any experiences/opinions y'all have.

 

[finn]

I have two four posts and a two post.

I prefer the four post lifts. Much easier to load and despite common knowledge espoused here, I don’t find the ramps to be an issue.

Maybe for a professional / commercial garage, but not for a home shop.

 

[bighitbiker3]

I have two four posts and a two post.

I prefer the four post lifts. Much easier to load and despite common knowledge espoused here, I don’t find the ramps to be an issue.

Maybe for a professional / commercial garage, but not for a home shop.

Do you work on the 4 post lift? If so how is working on suspension with the platforms under the wheels?

 

[finn]

Air operated rolling bridge jack on one, Rolling bridge plate and a bottle jack / jack stands on the other. Right now the 36 Ford had two jack stands under the rear axle, nestled on the jack plate roller.

The larger four poster has the air jack, and is 11k rated and wide enough to handle the dually.

The smaller one is 9k, and a little narrower, so it’s easier to reach.

My two poster is a 10 k Bendpack asymmetrical.

The other four post advantage is that the posts don’t get in the way. Trying to do body work on a crew cab pickup on the two post lift is a pita. I used it to patch rockers and it was almost unusable, with the post being in the way.

 

[c39er]

I have two extended length 4 post lifts....12 and 14,000 lbs.
Two air/hydraulics rolling jacks.
20" wide runways.
Quick and easy /safe to get the car or truck up on the lift....no crawling around on the floor as on a two post.
Any suspension work is safe and easy to do using the air/hydraulic rolling jacks...plenty of jack rise height.
I prefer the 4 post lift over the two post for all my vehicle work.
I have hundreds of hours under single and two post lifts....hate the lift pad set up....tough to set them on some vehicles and getting vehicle balance positioning safe for when removing heavy vehicle parts.

 

[CraigStu]

Lot's of guys like 4 posts. I hate them after 25 years as a dealer tech who had to use the alignment rack (w/ 2 powered bridge jacks) once in a while for a quick wait job. For you I would first check the cost. 4 posts have a LOT of steel in them so they cost more. You also need two powered rolling jacks so check their price. Quick check;

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2 post starts at $3500. 4 post starts at $4900. Sliding bridge jack starts at $1399 (that will be fun) and one w/ rollers starts at $2199.
Finn mentioned the one job that would be easier on a 4 post -rocker panel body work- so if you will be doing a lot of that, spend $6299 (you still can't get all 4 wheels off at the same time w/ one sliding jack) vs $3500.

 

[DrinkMan]

We use a 4 post. But our cars are a hobby and we are not professionals. Your post is timely. We just finished up working on our Alfa Romeo rear suspension a couple of days ago (replaced bushings, axle straps, bump stops, etc...). We have a sliding jack to lift it up for suspension work and a sliding jack tray. Turned out we used both this time. The sliding jack lifted the rear of the car and we could remove the wheels/tire. That gave us great access. Then I needed to lift up one of the trailing arms so I put the jack tray under that area and used a bottle jack. I had enough room to get to everything. If I were a professional who does a lot of suspension work I might have found it inconvenient but because I don't do this very often, I was so happy to be able to get to everything at a good height.

And I was pleased with the results:

 

[MFortie]

I have a four post with a rolling jack and a sliding jack tray; I use an air operated bottle jack (and jackstands) on the tray. So far I’ve been able to do everything I need from a complete suspension and gusset upgrade on my Can Am X3 to pulling the frame from under my ‘67 Chevelle. All with the four post.

In fact, I’ll be getting the frame back from powder coat (and repair) in a couple of weeks and will start re-assembling the new suspension. But not actually on the lift since the body is currently on the lift. And yes that was an interesting process separating (as will re-joining) the frame/body using the four post. It involved four very large jackstands, plenty of cribbing, and the tray, bottle and rolling jacks.

 

[LXCam]

4 poster here. I'll admit its not the easiest task sometimes working off of it for suspension stuff but its not all that bad. The one upside is if your doing suspension(s) that requires loading it (the suspension) before torqueing down the mounting bolts it greatly simplifies that aspect.

 

[tdkkart]

I've been doing my home-gamer stuff on a 4 post for 10ish years, I have one manual pump rolling bridge jack. I don't find it an issue at all
getting all 4 wheels in the air the few times I need to, roll the jack to the back, raise the rear and set on jackstands, raise the front. No big deal.

 

[finn]

Lot's of guys like 4 posts. I hate them after 25 years as a dealer tech who had to use the alignment rack (w/ 2 powered bridge jacks) once in a while for a quick wait job. For you I would first check the cost. 4 posts have a LOT of steel in them so they cost more. You also need two powered rolling jacks so check their price. Quick check;

Lifting Equipment | ToolTopia.com

Tooltopia.com The Mechanic’s Shop, your home for premium automotive Lifting Equipment. Check out our comprehensive list of tools and get free shipping on qualified items!

www.tooltopia.com

2 post starts at $3500. 4 post starts at $4900. Sliding bridge jack starts at $1399 (that will be fun) and one w/ rollers starts at $2199.
Finn mentioned the one job that would be easier on a 4 post -rocker panel body work- so if you will be doing a lot of that, spend $6299 (you still can't get all 4 wheels off at the same time w/ one sliding jack) vs $3500.

Alignment racks aren’t the same as a residential four post lift. Alignment lifts don’t lift as high and the ramps are much wider and thus difficult to reach around. Apples and oranges comparison.

All of the residential lifts I am familiar with come with a jack tray, so you’re likely going to want only one rolling air or hydraulic jack. You’re not doi flat rate work in your home garage. It takes much longer to safely set up a car on a two post lift than on a four post. Then there’s still the post in the way of the door, unless you’re working on an MG Midget.

 

[ycgoat]

Thanks bighitbiker3 for the post, it is good timing for me as well.

MFortie pulling the frame from under my ‘67 Chevelle. All with the four post. ​

Separating the body and frame on my GTO is one of the first things I want to do when I get a new lift, but I have done it already with out a lift and it was sketchy then. I have been looking around for how people do it with a 4 post.

I have used a 4 post many times for hobbyist work, and found it nice to be able to use the ramps to set tools on and easy to put up in the air, but anything toward the outside of the vehicle was awkward and I always felt contorted reaching over the ramps. At that time I felt a 2post would be much better, but I have never used one and the grass is always greener, especially when projects fight back.

For me like most most choices, I expect it will be price that dictates the final decision.

 

[racecougar]

I worked with both 2-post and 4-post lifts for years. When it came time to buy a lift of my own, I chose a 4-post, and I have absolutely no regret with that choice. Safer, better under-vehicle lighting options, better for storage, oil changes, body work, and far more convenient to get the car in the air than a 2-post. Bridge jacks make suspension/wheel/hub work a piece of cake.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

I have two four posts and a two post.

I prefer the four post lifts. Much easier to load and despite common knowledge espoused here, I don’t find the ramps to be an issue.

Maybe for a professional / commercial garage, but not for a home shop.

What he said..

Lifts are tools, Im gonna guess because of the entry price, they are unlike ratchets ( everyone can afford to have more than one ), but you really CAN use more than one style of lift. So it seems to get " tribal " when asking this question, most can not afford 2 or have the room for 2.

I had a full service indy shop for about a decade, first lift I bought was a nice Mohawk 9k 2 post ( still have it 35yrs later ), second lift was an Ammco 4 post 12 or 14k, with dual pneumatic rack jacks.

My guys would fight over the 4 post, no one wanted to use the 2 post if the 4 post was available and the procedure did not REQUIRE a 2 post. Then there are oil changes and the " quick on and off " procedures ", where it really shines.

Clearly, you do 2 post work on a 2 post, everything else happens on a 4 post if that option exists. A 4 post is a luxury in my mind.

If your changing out axles all day, or dropping subframes exclusively, youd not want a 4 post, but after making it past that point, its my opinion, they are the " bomb " especially if you grew up working with a 2 post. Then there are the heavy pickups, and big SUVs, etc.. ( which is what I seem to always drag home ).

For most, I really thinks its a matter of means, and what your doing. In a working generalists shop, Im of the opinion you need both. For the home or hobby shop, again, do you need a 2 post ? If not, buy a 4 post, but likely not the case.

What I love the most, is the easy on easy off, and the 20'+- work bench you get on both sides of the vehicle. Ease of climbing in and out of a vehicle if the need arises. Stability. You get to be under the car, to find your lift points to lift it with the rack jacks, instead of bent over trying to see " up " looking for a spot.

How many vids are there on youtube of folks dropping cars off 2 posts vs 4 posts ? I think Ive seen one 4 post accident, where the lift collapsed. Ive been to auctions, where they are selling lube racks up here, that have literally rusted out, and need to be scrapped, so a 4 post can fail, if neglected sufficiently.

Then there are the chinese 2 posts, that I assume most guys gravitate towards for home use, vs the clear floor, leaf chain, dual cylinder American made models. So even among the 2 posts, they can be day a nite. Ive worked under allot of different brands. Also installed, repaired, and flipped a bunch of lifts over the years. They are far from equal, in the same weight rating from the cheapest to the best. Same can be said for 4 posts.

Id like to add, if working with a 4 post that does not have at least 1 " powered " rack jack, the lift is significantly less desirble. You really need jacks with a 4 post. Almost akin to a hunting rifle, without a scope, they go together. A 4 post without jacks, is mostly a lube rack or additional parking ( to try and make a point ). So if you hear someone shitting all over a 4 post, first question to ask. " does it have jacks ? "

YMMV.

 

[pbon]

I have a 4 post but prefer the 2 post I had at my last house. Current house has wood floor carriage house so 2 post is not reasonably possible. But I can do what I need with the 4 post. I bought the one with the most space between runners that I could find for a 7-9k lift — Bendpak HD9-XW.

 

[CraigStu]

Alignment racks aren’t the same as a residential four post lift. Alignment lifts don’t lift as high and the ramps are much wider and thus difficult to reach around. Apples and oranges comparison.

All of the residential lifts I am familiar with come with a jack tray, so you’re likely going to want only one rolling air or hydraulic jack. You’re not doi flat rate work in your home garage. It takes much longer to safely set up a car on a two post lift than on a four post. Then there’s still the post in the way of the door, unless you’re working on an MG Midget.

A good point on the ramp width Finn. I guess like most things every alignment rack is not the same. The ones I have worked on all went to full height. Could be that they were ordered that way.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

A good point on the ramp width Finn. I guess like most things every alignment rack is not the same. The ones I have worked on all went to full height. Could be that they were ordered that way.

Another side note, I bought a used Challanger 12K in 2010 that was sold new as an alignment rack, and that is how I found it at a Dodge dealer, with the heads still on it. The only difference between this " alignment rack " and the comparable model of the same year was a spot notched out at the front of the runways for alignment heads. That lift was built in 2001. Things maybe different today. To my point, just because it has alignment heads on it, does not mean it should not be looked at.

 

[finn]

The other thing to consider is that many residential four post lifts have either standard or optional aluminum drive up ramps, whereas many commercial alignment racks have steel head banger approach ramps that aren’t really desirable in a home shop.

Then there’s the matter of drip trays. Not insurmountable, for sure, but something to consider.

 

[Lucky Llama]

I have 4 post and a two post. If I could only have one, I would pick the four post with rolling jacks. That being said. I do use the two post more.

 

[zkdiesel]

Well professionals like me work off a 2 post 12 hours a day. You can’t give me a 4 post to use.
Guys who say setting up a 2 post takes too long obviusly isn’t doing anything in a timely matter anyways

 

[finn]

Well professionals like me work off a 2 post 12 hours a day. You can’t give me a 4 post to use.
Guys who say setting up a 2 post takes too long obviusly isn’t doing anything in a timely matter anyways

Or else we’re older and have deteriorating knees.

Won’t be too many years until you join us.

It’s inevitable.

 

[zkdiesel]

Or else we’re older and have deteriorating knees.

Won’t be too many years until you join us.

It’s inevitable.

Dieing young is also and option and high probability in my profession

 

[finn]

Dieing young is also and option and high probability in my profession

Sounds good when you’re young, but that time quickly passes.

 

[Buckgnarly]

We have 4 Rotaries and a Hunter 4 post....

I'll take the 2 post ANYDAY over the 4 post for work except for rare occasions. I find contorting my body to get around the rails of the 4 post and ducking to get under the rails to grab stuff just as tiring as getting under a 2 post to place the lift arms. All just my experience of course, others have different uses and situations.

 

[zkdiesel]

Sounds good when you’re young, but that time quickly passes.

Doesn’t sound fine now but it’s a harsh reality for me

 

[Paul_VR6]

4 post Atlas with bridge jack here. I drag race FWD cars so some of the work is pretty specific. I have to put the car up high to get a trans out past the rails, but the rail is there to drop it on instead of my head. I can easily get the front up with the bridge jack and the back up with a single bottle jack on the rear beam and get it on jackstands in minutes. Most maintenance is super easy.

Only thing that's a little hard, and mostly due to space, is pulling an engine/trans. You can only really do it head on and I have little depth in front. I have to put the car on backward and pull it out the garage door. With a 2 post would have room to get in there at a bit of an angle and pull it foward enough to move the car. With the 4 post the engine hoist gets stuck under the ramps if you want to set it down to move the car out of the way.

 

[MFortie]

Thanks bighitbiker3 for the post, it is good timing for me as well.

MFortie pulling the frame from under my ‘67 Chevelle. All with the four post. ​

Separating the body and frame on my GTO is one of the first things I want to do when I get a new lift, but I have done it already with out a lift and it was sketchy then. I have been looking around for how people do it with a 4 post.

What I did was buy (4) HD Sunex jackstands (below) from Summit. They were a lot cheaper when I bought them!



Set them on the outside of the lift rails at each 'corner', used (3) 2x6's at each end to span across the lift, used 2x6's cut to fit between the frame rails and the rolling jack / bottle jack to lift the body high enough to slip the 2x6's between the body & frame resting on the stands, then lower the lift to roll the frame out from underneath, raise the lift back up to support the 2x6's on the lift rails.

I had stacked the 2x6's flat and saw a bit of deflection when the body was supported by the stands / 2x6's. I'm going to flip the boards so they're on edge and screw them together - I didn't connect them so they were easier to slip between the body & frame, but I'm sure that's why I saw the 'bending'.

The front clip was off, most of the interior was out, and the engine/trans was out. I'll probably have the engine/trans re-installed when I put it back together -- the stands go high enough for the combo to roll under the body. As long as an earthquake doesn't hit while I'm doing it I should be good!

 

[CraigStu]

Mfortie that is a great way to do it. One experience I had was at the dealer and one of the used car techs had to do an engine rebuild on a maybe 5 yr old pickup. He had previously worked at a Ford dealer so called his bud and asked do they still do engine work the same way Yep. So he pulls the front grill etc off, then the front fenders. Then undoes the steering column and pulls the AC compressor off the engine and hangs it on the frame. Loosens some other mount bolts etc, sticks the ends of the two post arms under the pinch welds on the cab. Lifts the cab off the frame and runs the lift up all the way. I have obviously forgotten all the stuff he had to disconnect but there he was 2.5 hours later w/ a frame w/ engine, trans, and the bed on it. Working on that engine was a dream.