Sliding T handle vs breaker bar

[uscarry45]

All things being equal (tool brand / force applied at drive point etc) which is stronger a 1/2 breaker bar or 1/2“ sliding T ?

I was thinking about this while looking at a Proto 1/2 sliding T handle and though is that stronger or weaker than a 1/2 breaker bar.

If I were to slip a piece of pipe over each one such that the force was applied equally to each drive at basically the same point and distance which would handle more forec?

I know their has been discussion on the design of breaker bar pivot but am curious about this

 

[four.cycle]

You have a variable in there - some Sliding "T" bars have a hollow fixture sliding on the bar. Others are solid.

Either way, it is not a binary choice: you need to own both. In all drive sizes. (Okay, at least 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2")

 

[Grokew]

You have a variable in there - some Sliding "T" bars have a hollow fixture sliding on the bar. Others are solid.

Either way, it is not a binary choice: you need to own both. In all drive sizes. (Okay, at least 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2")

Come on, I'm broke already.

 

[four.cycle]

Off the top of my head, I would guess the solid-drive-head type sliding "T" bar would be able to handle a higher torque load, but I'm not a physicist or an engineer so that's only a best wild guess.

 

[DadsTools]

With cheater pipe force, the weakest link on the sliding T is the bar itself, which can more easily bend because of its smaller diameter. Rooting through old tools at yard sales for years, I've seen my share of sliding T style drive tools with bent bars. Doesn't mean that the same force might break a pivot on a breaker bar--I would probably not encounter a broken one in my rooting, so my observations might not be so comprehensive. Overall, I would say the sliding T is designed so that you can more easily address multiple positions while rotating the tool by sliding the T instead of having to remove and reposition the tool, or can double as a T-handle, while the breaker bar is designed primarily for brute force. I vote for the breaker bar.

 

[JradM]

I'm with Dadstools on this one, at least generally speaking. I think you could find some T-handles that are stronger than some breaker bars, but generalizing I expect the opposite is true.

On a breaker bar, the weak link is the pivot. Different breaker bar styles have advantages, but the pivot is what will break if you test to failure.

On this style, the bar is able to push against the ears of the drive piece a bit, but the twist still starts with the pivot pin. As the ears are forced apart, the pin has to try and pull them together and keep from twisting.




On a sliding T-handle, the limiting factor is the handle itself.




So if you find a T-handle with a thick bar, it ought to be pretty strong - but that will make for a thicker drive piece to "house" it too. The drive piece has the advantage of wrapping around the bar - thus it won't separate like the ears on a breaker bar.

BUT, usually T-handles have thinner handles than breaker bars. Hence if you cheat them too much, they will bend.

Where things might get tricky is if you poke the T-handle equally out the sides from the drive piece and put pipes on each - that's like doubling the thickness of the handle. Then I don't know...

 

[Ton ton]

I do use a T-handle. I never got the hang of a regular breaker bar.

 

[unslow1]

I have some T handles somewhere. I use to use them but the breaker bar has been my tool of choice for many years now.

 

[wantedabiggergarage]

From those that I have seen, generally the breaker bar was longer/more leverage then the old t handles. However the T handles you could center something that was still slow to move due to rust and spin it off, without extra stress on a ratchet. At least that was how I learned.

 

[qqzj]

Sliding T can fit in a restricted space where breaker bar won't and allow one to use both hands. But that position is how impact gun works. So it is pretty much obsolete tools now.

 

[seber]

You are comparing shear force on the pins of a breaker bar vs tensile stress in a round bar. Diameter of each and alloy and heat treat are important variables. Pretty hard to make a comparison without knowing all the variables.

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

Given a choice between the two...I'd rather have an L. All the larger sets supplied to us at the mill came with an L instead of a breaker or slider. Great for using with a cheater. I'd like to see them offered in 3/8 and 1/4, with a drive square on both ends.

 

[Bubba Fett]

It's good to have both. I think a long breaker bar will deliver more torque, assuming it is a quality one. A sliding T-bar can be handy in situations where space is limited, and with a t-bar, you can push one side and pull the other. This is essential in situations where torque needs to be carefully applied, such as using a thread restorer/helicoil kit. But for breaking loose a bolt, good breaker bar is better. T-bars can, and do bend.