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Floor Drain mistake, and how to fix?

mrbreeze71

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
7
Location
MI
Question for the group. I had a 36x50 built last year, overall turned out great. I had a floor drain put in the cement floor and 4" corrugated pipe stubbed out the side of the building for me to run to a drainage area. To my surprise, I started to trench that in and I see that it is perforated. Perforated all of the way to the drain inside the building. I assume that should be solid pipe (non perforated corrugated). But, at this point, what's done is done. Any thoughts? I think that I can possibly slide a 3" solid PVC all of the way from the outside to the drain and seal that in. Looking for other thoughts or options. Can't really go back at this point, need to think about what to do going forward. Fact is, I'll rarely have water on the floor in there, so it may never be an issue, but if I can fix it right, I might as well.
 
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nadogail

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Jan 23, 2009
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31,961
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Coronado, CA
Sewer pipes can be relined, typically a sleeve is pulled into the pipe and expanded, after the pipe liner is expanded an epoxy is activated.

Call your local plumbing contractor for prices.
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,283
Location
Northern Virginia
Are you sure corrugated pipe is all the way back to the drain, under the floor? I don't believe that stuff should be under a slab at all. (Perforated or not perforated.)
The OP’s install is clearly botched.

That said perf 4” corrugated drainage pipe is used all the time under basement slabs. Granted I’ve not run it under a garage slab on grade.
 

jack stand

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Feb 29, 2012
Messages
3,336
Location
Lakes Region Maine
You say it shouldn't see a ton of water...
Your options are connected to a fat invoice so just go with it. Do you recall how deep it is below the bottom of the slab?
I think that for it to be a big concern you'd have to pour enough water in it to completely saturate the soil and once the immediate surrounding soil was saturated I'd estimate that the pipe would be the least restrictive path for the water to flow.

A wacky thought just popped into my head, bentonite clay. Possibly a way to seal the dirt outside of the slots by pouring in a loose slurry over a period of time? Maybe someone could expand on this thought.
 
OP
M

mrbreeze71

Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
7
Location
MI
Thanks for the thoughts. I'll have to get with the builder and sort it out. As I think about how it was installed... There was a vapor barrier over the sand, then the rebar and 4" of concrete. The drain is in the middle, through the vapor barrier (I think) with drain pipe below the concrete and exiting under the 2x8 grade board that runs around the perimeter of the building. How far under the slab I don't know. Probably not far at the drain, but maybe a couple inches where it exits it would appear. The building is 36' wide, so like I said initially, I'm not sure why I couldn't run 20 feet of 3" PVC inside the 4" corrugated, assuming it is a straight shot from the exit to the drain, then just seal around the PVC in the drain somehow.
 
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The Cobbler

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Oct 24, 2013
Messages
25,905
Location
Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
very likely you won't get a 3" thru the drainage tile, any slight dip or bend will be the end of pushing for you
for the little bit of water you're expecting, I would consider 2" black poly flexible shoved thru and fitted to a drain .
 

CraigStu

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Joined
May 22, 2014
Messages
4,035
Location
Blacksburg, Va
I would definitely try the 3 inch PVC. If it doesn't go, heck you have some pipe on hand. My concern w/ any flexible hose is every one I have seen came off of a roll. And it still has a memorized curve to it. So the end of it is going to be tight against the inside of your corrugated pipe which I think will jam it not too far in.
 
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