Overhead Cam valve spring compressor

[kooldino]

I'm looking for a valve spring compressor that can be used on modern, small displacement 16v DOHC 4cyl engines. I need the type of spring compressor that will allow me to change valve springs while the engine is still in the car.

Any help?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have one similar to this set and it's very good. Mine has the compressed air adapter to hold the valves up while you remove everything above them.

I also have this:

Same principle. Came off eBay Germany, was custom made.

 

[rodm1]

The KD 3271 has worked well for me. It's about the only one that would allow me to replace them without removing the brake booster. Find the longest old spark plug wire you have and use that to hold the valves up.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMYDME/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kooldino]

I have one similar to this set and it's very good. Mine has the compressed air adapter to hold the valves up while you remove everything above them.

This doesn't appear to have that, I guess?

Does it look like the hose with the spark plug thread on one end and the quick release air hose on the other (the kind that comes with a compression tester)? If so, I can probably use the one that came with my compression tester.

Like this:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-19700.aspx

I also have this:

Same principle. Came off eBay Germany, was custom made.

Wow.

 

[kooldino]

The KD 3271 has worked well for me. It's about the only one that would allow me to replace them without removing the brake booster.

This says that it's for overhead valve...so will that only work on a pushrod motor? Or can it do overhead cam as well?

Find the longest old spark plug wire you have and use that to hold the valves up.

How can I hold the valves up with a wire?

 

[Moose-LandTran]

This doesn't appear to have that, I guess?

Does it look like the hose with the spark plug thread on one end and the quick release air hose on the other (the kind that comes with a compression tester)? If so, I can probably use the one that came with my compression tester.

Like this:
http://www.tooltopia.com/lisle-19700.aspx

Yes, same thing effectively. The one that came with mine is a knurled steel one, but it makes no difference as long as the adapter coupling matches that on your airline.

Wow.

It does the job. According to the eBay auction it was made for the Jaguar endurace racing team. Whether that's true or not i don't know.

This says that it's for overhead valve...so will that only work on a pushrod motor? Or can it do overhead cam as well?

I've got one and the only (D)OHC engine (Without rockers) i'm aware of that it'll work on is the Fiat 1.2/1.4 as they run a two-part cylinder head. I'm sure there are other like this that it'll work on though.

It is meant for OHV engines though.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

The KD 3271 has worked well for me. It's about the only one that would allow me to replace them without removing the brake booster. Find the longest old spark plug wire you have and use that to hold the valves up.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMYDME/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have a Mac made just like this one that has always worked well for me.

 

[kooldino]

bump! Anyone else?

 

[SgtRauksauff]

For keeping the valves seated and not dropping, I like to put some soft nylon rope in the cylinder, but you can also use a compression tester hose to fill the cylinder with air.

as for a tool, there's one you can get for about 40 bucks from snap-on, it's an AWESOME little tool....

works frickin' awesome, no need for levers and such.

It's a Blue-Point GA317, Small Valve Keeper Remover and Installer.

here's another one:

here's a link to the PDF: Linky

here's another thread where the first image is also posted. Actually a write-up on replacing the valve seals on a toyota 4AGE engine (not my engine, although I've got one):
AEU86 forum linky

$39.05 plus shipping... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?store=snapon-store&item_ID=78777&group_ID=1578 Maybe less, maybe more, if you can find a Snap-on truck around.

I started to make my own tool, to do the lever-action style of removal, but this one just works SO freakin' good. install AND uninstall, hassle-free!

I just got done using it on my 4AGE last weekend, upgrading my valve springs for the new cams I'm putting in. No need to use a hammer like the pic on the box shows. The valve springs on DOHC engines are generally WAY softer than those on pushrod single-cam engines. I think the seat pressure on the Toyota engine I just did was ~30lbs. About 45 minutes, and I had all 16 valvesprings changed out.

--sarge

 

[Stephenw]

as for a tool, there's one you can get for about 40 bucks from snap-on, it's an AWESOME little tool....

I have this same tool and have used it successfully.

A warning with this tool...

There was a GM service bulletin about using this tool.

When the tool drives the valve spring retainer down, it is possible for the retainer to tilt or shift and hit end of the valve stem. This can cause a nick in the valve stem that can cause damage to the valve stem seal. This can cause the engine to burn oil.

A compression tester adapter makes a good air holding tool, but the schrader valve should be removed.

 

[kooldino]

This is awesome. So if I bought that tool, I wouldn't need to buy a separate spring compressor and valve lock tool?

Otherwise, I was thinking of going with this valve lock tool:

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/342.html

and this spring compressor:

http://www.tooltopia.com/schley-91400a.aspx

 

[Theloniousmonk]

This is awesome. So if I bought that tool, I wouldn't need to buy a separate spring compressor and valve lock tool?

Otherwise, I was thinking of going with this valve lock tool:

http://www.compcams.com/catalog/342.html

and this spring compressor:

http://www.tooltopia.com/schley-91400a.aspx

That style compressor has always worked well for me, but I built my own a while ago (copied design). I have also just used my thumbs to compress the spring and a telesoping magnet held in my teeth to grab the keepers.

 

[SgtRauksauff]

I have this same tool and have used it successfully.

A warning with this tool...

There was a GM service bulletin about using this tool.

When the tool drives the valve spring retainer down, it is possible for the retainer to tilt or shift and hit end of the valve stem. This can cause a nick in the valve stem that can cause damage to the valve stem seal. This can cause the engine to burn oil.

A compression tester adapter makes a good air holding tool, but the schrader valve should be removed.

Schraeder valve removal a definite must. Won't work otherwise. My fairly inexpensive compressioin tester actually had a regular Type M fitting on it, made it a breeze to use for keeping the valves up.

Nice note on the GM warning. I can see how that could happen if one isn't careful. That's another reason why I'll keep doing it by hand, rather than using a sharp impact of a hammer or such.

I'd also note to BE SURE your keepers are seated properly, you can hear them click when pushing the tool down. After a few, you get the feel of it, and know if it's perfectly in, or if one side might not be all the way. A valve keeper can fly pretty darned far, and you could damage an eye or just lose the keeper somewhere.

And, to the OP: yes, this tool will remove AND install the valve retainers/keepers, no need for a different hold down device. Also, depending on what engine you have, that "universal" compressor won't actually fit on all heads. The 4AGE specifically was too small. for the mounting feet, so the tool wouldve needed to be modified somehow. I started to make my own, then stopped when I found the Bluepoint.

--sarge

 

[scott37300]

There are more vids on youtube of this tool if you search around.

 

[kooldino]

Awesome. Sold.

 

[srmofo]

How can I hold the valves up with a wire?

For keeping the valves seated and not dropping, I like to put some soft nylon rope in the cylinder,

insert rope or wire, then turn cylinder toward TDC until theres enough pressure to hold the valve up

 

[Shadowdog500]

It's a Blue-Point GA317, Small Valve Keeper Remover and Installer.

--sarge

I just ordered the slightly larger 318 Blue point one yesterday from my Snap-On Man to put valve seals in my Willys Jeep. I should have it on Tuesday. It is less expensive from Lisle but no one seems to have one.

The videos were so impressive that I just had to have one.

Has anyone here had the nicking the valve stem issue? Sometimes I wonder if things like this are from techs using the tool improperly, or hurriedly.

Chris

 

[spv]

I purchased a Lisle version (of the blue point tool) a few days ago. Waiting on delivery.. That said I have the screw compressor type above and the g-clamp style. They are both useless for the engine (twin cam) that I am working on. The valves are way to stiff for the "g" and too tight to get the clamp tool on.

 

[Bran Diezel]

http://www.tooltopia.com/schley-91400a.aspx

blue point has the same one too for like $40 more

 

[kooldino]

I got my blue point tool. Can't wait to try it.

 

[Shadowdog500]

My Blue point tool came in on Tuesday night.

Unfortunately I could not use it on the Willys. The valve keepers are huge by todays standard. I did try it on an old small block chevy head and it worked great. Only problem was that the springs were so strong that I had to hit it pretty hard with a hammer. Modern heads seem to have much weaker springs and you wont need a hammer.


Chris

 

[kooldino]

Finally put this to the test.

I had to fiddle around for a few minutes before I realized the best way of removing the locks was to use the silver part of the tool only. I guess that's why it separates.

Once I figured that out, it was easy.

We'll see how it goes when it's time to reinstall.

 

[spv]

Finally put this to the test.

I had to fiddle around for a few minutes before I realized the best way of removing the locks was to use the silver part of the tool only. I guess that's why it separates.

Once I figured that out, it was easy.

We'll see how it goes when it's time to reinstall.

I had exactly the same experience with the Lisle variety (almost identical tool). It made light work of removing the valve collets. I also have not tried the re-install. This tool works so much better than a traditional valve spring compressor. I have the G shaped and a Clamp type (that hooks onto the spring itself). They were both pretty hard going and not really all that useful for my twincam head. The "tap and catch" style works so well. The magnet grabs the collets as the spring compresses. Works with a light tap at most.

 

[JayL]

more pics please.....

 

[williaty]

This interests me, but I have to wonder how universally applicable it is. For $50, it oughta work on everything!

I bought one of these for the Subaru SOHC heads (which are roller-rocker) and it works great:

However, it won't work at all for the SUBARU DOHC heads since they use a bucket design and the top of the valve (and therefore the retainer) is buried way the hell down in the head. I can't find any "clamp style" valve spring compressor that can reach down into the Subaru DOHC heads. You can see the holes the valve stems hide down in on the DOHC heads:

 

[ohmfab]

I used the same spring compressor as in williaty's post for a DOHC Volvo 2.9 I6.

I used a 2" long section of PVC pipe which had a diameter to fit over the retainer. I cut a "window" cut in the side of the pipe to be able to remove the retainers with a small magenetized screwdriver.

It was a bit cumbersome for a 24 valve motor but I tell you what, by the time i removed valve 14 or so I was a pro

This method would work on any deep bucket style cylinder head like the modern Subies or Volvos.

Omer

 

[vssjim]

SP tools does sell a tool for OHC style engines that will do a large variety of engines
#91400 on car or off car large or small diameter springs.

http://www.sptool.com/index.php?pag...roduct_id=182&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=11

 

[airbuff101]

I used the same spring compressor as in williaty's post for a DOHC Volvo 2.9 I6.

I used a 2" long section of PVC pipe which had a diameter to fit over the retainer. I cut a "window" cut in the side of the pipe to be able to remove the retainers with a small magenetized screwdriver.

It was a bit cumbersome for a 24 valve motor but I tell you what, by the time i removed valve 14 or so I was a pro

This method would work on any deep bucket style cylinder head like the modern Subies or Volvos.

Omer

Here's an adapter to allow C-type Spring compressors to access deep spring wells. Similar to your trick.
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/kl9307.html
They sell 2 sizes but pricey unless you do a lot of heads.
They just clip into the forks and stay there.

10 years ago KD sold #3388 and 3389 Valve spring compressor adapters in 27mm and 32mm that were much less expensive and look identical, white plastic. I guess they've discontinued them.
They are worth searching for though.
Rob

 

[Stephenw]

I also have a "C" clamp compressor. I have two sizes of adapters for recessed valve springs. Mine is Blue-Point brand.

 

[kooldino]

How choosey are the sizes of the adapters? The engine I have here has ~23.7mm retainers.

 

[airbuff101]

Yup,
Those are the little buggers.
Rob

 

[Stephenw]

I just went and measured my adapters. One is 27mm and the other is 32mm. I've just always used the size that will fit in the lifter bore. I also like the "brew your own" from PVC pipe idea mentioned by ohmfab.

 

[kooldino]

So as long as it fits in the bore, I should be fine. I think the buckets are at least 26mm.

 

[homesale]

Has any one used the Blue-Point GA317 on Honda / Acura DOHC 16 valve?

I plan to install higher performance cams and stiffer Acura Integra Type R valve springs and retainers.

Do you need to use a hammer if installing valve springs and retainers?

 

[boogerboy72]

if the keepers are more than one groove, the bluepoint one can be a real PITA to get them back in.

 

[kooldino]

Tips for reinstall using the blue point tool:

1-Put the retainer on the spring.
2-Put the keepers inside the center of the retainer
3-Use the silver AND black part of the tool combined for this. Place the black pin in the center of the keepers and press down.
4-While pressing down, strike the back of the tool with a hammer or a small sledge.
5-Voila! Inspect that the keepers are fully seated. If not, repeat step 4.

 

[Buzzard217]

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?vName=Tools&keyword=valve+keeper&viewItems=24

what the difference between the first 2 in this Sears search?

 

[MechanicNamedJohn]

A drill press and O2 socket will do the job also.

 

[stopdroplol]

I used the same spring compressor as in williaty's post for a DOHC Volvo 2.9 I6.

I used a 2" long section of PVC pipe which had a diameter to fit over the retainer. I cut a "window" cut in the side of the pipe to be able to remove the retainers with a small magenetized screwdriver.

It was a bit cumbersome for a 24 valve motor but I tell you what, by the time i removed valve 14 or so I was a pro

This method would work on any deep bucket style cylinder head like the modern Subies or Volvos.

Omer

This method works for me. Only instead of PVC pipe I use a proper sized socket with an extendable magnet wand down the center. And I never use hammers, to scary. Instead I take a pair of lock pliers and loop them around the magnet wand and on top of the socket. With that I have enough leverage to force it.

I don't own any type of special tool for the job so I don't really know how it compares. But it's never failed me and I don't see a need to spend extra cash.

The compressed air trick sounds interesting though. I've used nylon rope to jam the cylinder up before. If you use air how much pressure should you put in there? I guess it would depend on the size, but what's a general amount?