Tools of Japan

[jmf535]

I just got a set of the impact ball bits, and unfortunately the anvil is too short, so they don't work very well in anything other than a magnet-type bit holder. Even when using the included bit holder (clip retention), there is a lot of movement.

I was hoping to use them with a Wera Rapidaptor, but it's a no-go. They work well with my Felo holder, so I'll keep them.

 

[Reed Prince]

You can make a workable PB/Vessel hybrid with them.




edit: The 30mm is a good fit for Wera.

 

[Reed Prince]

For low torque applications, especially on vintage Japanese electronics, I really like using the shank from a ratcheting Vessel driver. 100mm is a good length, the "handle" is more than grippy enough, and the small diameter allows me to quickly spin fasteners free.

 

[darkzero]

Latest order from Amz Jpn, most of which to complete my stripped screw removal kit.


So my stripped screw removal kit consists of:
-Engineer KSE-04 case.
-Engineer Neji-saurus screw removal pliers.
-Engineer GT Drive screwdriver. Tang through for hammering.
-Engineer Bazooka bits for stripped screws. Covers #0-#2 cross & 2mm-5mm SHCSs.
-Engineer 100mm extension made to use w/ the GT driver & Bazooka bits (clip retention, no magnet, for hammering).
-Vessel 65mm length bits since the GT driver & extension have deep holes so they can't be used with short/standard length bits.
-Titan swivel head bit ratchet & pinning tweezers. These are the only things that aren't from Japanese tool companies, not that I care. I wanted a roto head bit ratchet & the pinning tweezers used by locksmiths are great for grabbing small screws securely.

This will be my go to kit for small stripped screws, will use other means for extraction if needed. The Engineer case is not a perfect solution but it'll work for me. The pliers are a bit of a tight fit & where I have the Bazooka tips those loops are made for screwdrivers so they're not tight at the bottom (I have an idea to remedy that if needed).

 

[darkzero]

My very first Ko-ken tool & it's a lot nicer than I expected! Collar spins very freely. The bar is oval shaped & has a center detent which I'm very happy about. It's also completely removable so the shank can also be used as a 3/8" drive extension. Some of you guys may already know this but I didn't just from looking at pics. Had this on my wish list for a while. Was much cheaper getting it from Japan than US dealers.



Wise hex key cheater bar. Their longer ones were actually cheaper but at 9"-10" that is too long for my preference. The long is also available on Amz US, this shorter one isn't. Also picked up the reducing sleeves. Sure you can just use a piece of pipe or the end of an adjustable wrench for a cheater as I have but I thought thise Wise cheater was kind cool the way it works. I have to try it out a bit to see if it's actually useful.

 

[macgee]

For low torque applications, especially on vintage Japanese electronics, I really like using the shank from a ratcheting Vessel driver. 100mm is a good length, the "handle" is more than grippy enough, and the small diameter allows me to quickly spin fasteners free.

I haven't been active on GJ for a very long time but have to chime to totally agree with Reed (by the way Reed, nice Sony TC-730, r2r in your pic). I've too been working lately as well with some nice Japanese audio gear (Accuphase, Leben, Kondo) and can't afford any damage or over torquing fasteners as that can get very costly. I can't say enough about how nice it is to use Vessel bits and handles. They're definitely my first choice and they're very good. After two solid years of use in different fields (machine shop, racing boats, high end audio), Vessel and PB Swiss are my top choice, with Vessel being reached for the most.

One hex bit that I can't recommend enough is Vessel's #2 reduced narrow long shank (Mdl: NTPH2150P10K). https://vesseltoolsusa.com/product/bit/bulk/detail/426063
I initially didn't give them much notice and then started using them and its now one of my very favorite bits to use and very versatile. Highly recommend!
Reed, I think you would really like using them, reaching into amps and into electronic component cabinets.

The long narrow shank reaches into many narrow deep spots and the tip grabs/bites really, really well. It looks like a #1 but but its a solid #2 tip and no marring occurs. It also works really with their ball grip with it's long hex section (feels solid) and vessels magnetic ring. Definitely fills a niche/gap in my sets and now used often. Highly recommend to others to try out; it's worth it.

#2 reduced shank with Vessel stubby ratchet


#2 Mdl 700 on top, reduced #2 long shank below it, I also like the small vessel 610 drivers (#1 -75mm shown)

Top three are #2 tips, fourth down is a #1 610 vessel.

 

[corn chip]

how do pb or vessel compare to wera mini screwdrivers ? i ordered some wera many months ago but may have to consider a alternative since the turmoil in that region may make it impossible to ever get my order

 

[macgee]

corn chip, I think a lot of it depends on how many tip styles needed and the size of items you're working on. Wera & Wiha have a ton of tip choices; more than Vessel and pb swiss. I'm really happy with Vessel but their choice in rotating cap drivers is limited, I also have the small pb swiss driver sets (their equivalent to wera) and Vessel's small watchmaker drivers and 610 style. I have a full set of Wera's but they do not get used, gathering dust and have been gifting them out to neighbors, they're not bad. If your looking for a good alternative, check out Felo 250, 252 drivers (inexpensive, made in Germany), I really like those more than Wera and I keep using them a lot (slot's & #00,0,1). Vessel has good smaller low torque rotating cap watchmaking style drivers but I use the formers much more. PB Swiss are excellent, no issues but for some reason I don't reach for them as much, the handle and blade length is not always my favorite; they're coated tips are excellent; on par with Vessel's industrial line.
But we're digressing as this thread is for tools of Japan

Here's another pic of the long 150mm Vessel #2 reduced tip narrow shank on a cordless. I use this a lot and works really well.

 

[Dave455]

how do pb or vessel compare to wera mini screwdrivers ? i ordered some wera many months ago but may have to consider a alternative since the turmoil in that region may make it impossible to ever get my order

I own the PB, and have used the Wera.

PB are better quality, overall, but…

Most of my PB have the hard acetate handles, which isn’t an option on the Wera. If you’re going for the soft ones anyway, that’s not a consideration.

PB offer quite a range, so compare like with like. There is quite a difference in the size, depending on what you choose. This isn’t always apparent looking in a catalogue.


The tips are superbly accurate on the PB. I don’t believe there’s anything better out there. But Wera do some things better than others, and they do these precision screwdrivers very well.


Both makers offer an extensive range - slotted, Phillips, hex, Torx and nut driver. Both offer an extensive range of sizes. Wera alone offer Pozidriv. Both have colour coding (soft handles only on PB)

I love Swiss tools, but sometimes the small stuff is very geared towards watchmaking / micro electronics, and there are better options for general engineering. This may be one occasion, but it depends what you do.

Wera offer a very nice (but not cheap) range of interchangeable bit micro screwdrivers. I’ve seen and used these also. Very nice, and I think have the edge on the PB equivalent. Certainly for my use.

I suppose the Garage Journal answer is to get both, but it might be worth trying one or two of each.

Incidentally, there is no interruption in supply of Wera here in the U.K, and I don’t believe the Ukrainian problems have affected the Czech Republic at all. I wonder if the difficulties are elsewhere…!

 

[m6z]

Want!

 

[Dave455]

Want!

Very nice!

That looks like the (new style) aluminium boxes they supply with their tool kits.


I had no idea they were available in red.

The old style were only ever available in silver.


Historically, the only red option was the similar style plastic box, which obviously isn’t as good.


I think these are a very practical size and style of box, but the selection of tools supplied is biased towards Japanese sizes. Fine if that’s what you need. Not so good otherwise. Well priced though. You can pick these sets up, including tools, for just over €500.

 

[Daytonaer]

Is anyone familiar with a Japanese manufactured valve lash tool for Honda cars?

I am looking for something like the blue point YA8895, the powerbuilt 648827 or the schley SL88950 but made in Japan?



I have done the adjustments with a box wrench and screwdriver but wanted to try this setup, I would assume something like these exist in the JDM world but I can't find any.

Thanks!

 

[Stormin1]

Picked up this set of Koken 1/2” Impact sockets and extension. The impact Uni joint is delayed by 2 weeks.

How do you like these so far? I was looking at the semi-deep version of this set.

 

[Vicks]

How do you like these so far? I was looking at the semi-deep version of this set.

So i have used the Impact sockets on 2 jobs so far - changing the shock absorbers and for removing the brake calipers on my 4x4 - both with a cordless Impact. I like the fact that there is a set of two markings on the sockets - one is stamped and the other printed. The stamped markings are not easily visible due to the black coating but the silver print markings are. I have found the fit of these sockets to be quite precise on the fasteners (although i've only used sizes 17, 19 and 21 so far) without much slop at all. I once used a 17mm to loosen the front shock mounting nut but the socket was rubbing on the tie-rod. This caused some friction marks on the socket surface but the phosphate coating held up well. I will try to grab a picture of the marks later when i get home.
Edit: here is a picture showing the markings - stamped and printed on the socket, as well as the marks on the coating from friction.


The set i have is the deep version and they may not be suitable for working on fasteners with limited access but i don't mind it due to below reasons:
- these sockets will only be used with an impact gun (cordless or otherwise) which by itself would be 20cm long, the semi-deep or normal depth sockets wouldn't have much of an advantage in cramped spaces.
- I would be using these impact sockets only on my 4x4 where accessibility is generally not an issue.
- In applications where space is limited i will revert to my regular sockets (non-impact rated) with good old leverage which i have found works better than an impact tool in some cases for eg., removing the rear wheel brake rotor on my Y61 Patrol, i used a Metabo LTX 400 BL cordless impact with the Ko-ken impact socket and Uni-joint due to limited access but the Metabo couldn't break it free (blame the workshop who tightened it using a big-*** air impact) and i then used a regular socket with a spinner handle and extension /cheater bar with which i got enough leverage to break the bolt free.

 

[midorix]

Is anyone familiar with a Japanese manufactured valve lash tool for Honda cars?

I am looking for something like the blue point YA8895, the powerbuilt 648827 or the schley SL88950 but made in Japan?



I have done the adjustments with a box wrench and screwdriver but wanted to try this setup, I would assume something like these exist in the JDM world but I can't find any.

Thanks!

Any reason to try to get made in Japan for this tool? I used Powerbuilt 648827 to adjust valve for my 04 Acura MDX and worked great.

 

[Daytonaer]

No need, I just appreciate the value/quality balance of Japanese tool making (like many in this thread) I have been doing fine with a wrench and driver, I was just curious if anything else is out there.
Thanks

 

[superautobacs]

Is anyone familiar with a Japanese manufactured valve lash tool for Honda cars?

I am looking for something like the blue point YA8895, the powerbuilt 648827 or the schley SL88950 but made in Japan?



I have done the adjustments with a box wrench and screwdriver but wanted to try this setup, I would assume something like these exist in the JDM world but I can't find any.

Thanks!

Official OEM tool seems to be:
07maa-pr70120
07maa-pr70110

you supply the appropriate offset wrench:

 

[boom10ful]

Is anyone familiar with a Japanese manufactured valve lash tool for Honda cars?

I am looking for something like the blue point YA8895, the powerbuilt 648827 or the schley SL88950 but made in Japan?



I have done the adjustments with a box wrench and screwdriver but wanted to try this setup, I would assume something like these exist in the JDM world but I can't find any.

Thanks!

The best tool that I've used for valve adjustments is this Proto through hole ratchet and a t handle hex. I've found the style posted above to be too flimsy on Cummins engines and almost busted my knuckles when the handle separated from the socket part.

Proto 3/8" Drive 45 Geared Teeth Pear Head Style Hand Ratchet, 8-1/2" L, Full Polish Finish J5249XLHS | Zoro

Order Proto 3/8" Drive 45 Geared Teeth Pear Head Style Hand Ratchet, 8-1/2" L, Full Polish Finish, J5249XLHS at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

 

[Mr. Tool]

The best tool that I've used for valve adjustments is this Proto through hole ratchet and a t handle hex. I've found the style posted above to be too flimsy on Cummins engines and almost busted my knuckles when the handle separated from the socket part.

Proto 3/8" Drive 45 Geared Teeth Pear Head Style Hand Ratchet, 8-1/2" L, Full Polish Finish J5249XLHS | Zoro

Order Proto 3/8" Drive 45 Geared Teeth Pear Head Style Hand Ratchet, 8-1/2" L, Full Polish Finish, J5249XLHS at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.

www.zoro.com

I've got that Proto ratchet, excellent.

 

[m6z]

Man, this place is expensive.. Almost ordered that KTC box, but the 15# listed weight seemed excessive.

 

[boom10ful]

I just received my Nepros adjustable wrench today and am slightly disappointed. I've had good luck with their tools but the jaw has more play perpendicular to the screw. The Chinese adjustable that I own are better in that regard.

Very comfortable and shiny though!

 

[General Geoff]

My first KTC ratchet, and boy did I pick a good one.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

Why is the end of the shaft split?

 

[midorix]

Why is the end of the shaft split?

My guess is to allow adjustment to the rotational stiffness of the head. You can adjust via hex screw. Mine came little stiff from factory, hence adjusted to my liking. This KTC swivel has been great.

 

[superautobacs]

Why is the end of the shaft split?

Most swivel-head ratchets are like that. Without it, it's probably difficult to place the head into the yoke. One exception is Wera's version, which is fastened and positioned with flanged bushings.

 

[CheekyMonkey]

An dumb question, perhaps, but how prevalent are fakes of Japanese tools?

I know for things like NGK and ND spark plugs, those not coming from authorized distributors are highly likely to be counterfeit, but I'm not familiar enough with the tool trade to know about their probability.

This question is prompted by an odd situation -- I ordered a pair of cheap Plato 170 cutters as beaters/loaners, fully expecting them to be knockoffs, but was shipped a pair of 3peaks SP-23 instead.

Given my expectations, and the low price paid, there would be no disappointment whatsoever if they are fake, but I am still curious what the chances are, however remote, that they may be genuine.

It's also a relevant question because I do plan to order some Tsunoda cutters, probably from Amazon, and don't know if that's risky.

 

[Zjenji]

Greetings everyone. I recently purchased a Nepros nbr390, and while attempting to take the ratchet apart I nearly stripped the buttery soft Phillips screws. Does anyone know the size of these screws so that I can find a Torx replacement for them?

 

[Vicks]

Bought a Ko-ken 1/2” flexible ratchet - the 4774N. I do have the Zeal 3/8” ratchet which is my preferred choice but for use with 1/2” sockets (22mm and above) I wanted a proper 1/2” and this time went with a flexible head version just so I can see if it offered any advantages over the regular ones.






I’m a fan of the knurled handles. Except for the zeal 3/8” ratchet all other spinner handles and ratchets I have from Ko-ken are knurled.

 

[mdrawde]

Greetings everyone. I recently purchased a Nepros nbr390, and while attempting to take the ratchet apart I nearly stripped the buttery soft Phillips screws. Does anyone know the size of these screws so that I can find a Torx replacement for them?

I used M2x5mm insert holder countersink screws, heaps on ebay.
Sorry, I misread. I have the 1/4, not the 3/8.

 

[Vicks]

Greetings everyone. I recently purchased a Nepros nbr390, and while attempting to take the ratchet apart I nearly stripped the buttery soft Phillips screws. Does anyone know the size of these screws so that I can find a Torx replacement for them?

I'm guessing you (nearly) stripped the screw head and not the thread ? If so, i have found it useful to give the screw driver handle a slight tap or three before attempting to loosen the screw - it loosens the thread lock compound some manufacturers use on these screws. Not necessary to use an impact driver or such on it but a similar action of lesser force will suffice.

 

[71firebird400]

Grabbed a pair of Ko-ken Z-eal rachets from DRPD during their Memorial Day sale. DRPD is excellent, I cannot recommend them enough. Extremely fast shipping and well packaged.



The ratchets themselves will be functional. I wanted some shorter flex-head ratchets with a smaller footprint than the admittedly chunky Dual-80. However, I can't say I'm overly enthused about these ratchets. The mechanism itself feels a bit cheap with a fair amount of backlash. The selector switch is reversed from the majority of my ratchets, and the detent on the flex head itself results in a bit of a grinding sensation as it moves.

Overall I'm pleased for what they are; relatively small and inexpensive ratchets with low backdrag. There is not much else to be celebrated though.

 

[macgee]

It's also a relevant question because I do plan to order some Tsunoda cutters, probably from Amazon, and don't know if that's risky.

I would think you're safe ordering through Amazon prime (in stock locally) and if the seller really is Tsunoda tools itself.

I'm also curious about the Hozan N-4 nipper cutters (like the ones above that m6z bought) and if it's advertised 58HRC steel holds up well and how they might compare to Knipex's 62 HRC nippers with same cut angle or Tsunoda's? They're not cheap but a good long lasting pair is worth it.
I love EREM's but the prices ($$$) of them now a days make it really hard to love as much.

The Tsunoda KBN-125 looks interesting and gets good reviews. $20 on Amazon prime sold by Tsunoda. Though there's no spring.
I read in a review that states: "hardness - 42 to 50HRC for the body and 56-62HRC for the induction-hardened edge"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3QL9JF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

And these ones as well with spring; good price delivered:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RDDLX6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Zjenji]

I'm guessing you (nearly) stripped the screw head and not the thread ? If so, i have found it useful to give the screw driver handle a slight tap or three before attempting to loosen the screw - it loosens the thread lock compound some manufacturers use on these screws. Not necessary to use an impact driver or such on it but a similar action of lesser force will suffice.

Thank you for replying, I appreciate it!

Yes, nearly stripped. They use blue Loctite on both screws. I learned my lesson after the first one practically melted like butter, and yes, I was using a JIS screwdriver. The screws are just really soft. For the second screw, I tapped the screw to ”loosen” it and it came out fine. Now I’d like to be able to replace the screws with some Torx equivalents and not pay $40 for a Nepros repair kit just for one semi-stripped screw.

So, anyone have an idea what size screws they are? Thank you in advance.

 

[ptabatcher]

The Tsunoda KBN-125 looks interesting and gets good reviews. $20 on Amazon prime sold by Tsunoda. Though there's no spring.
I read in a review that states: "hardness - 42 to 50HRC for the body and 56-62HRC for the induction-hardened edge"

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3QL9JF/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I bought that exact pair from amazon. Have only used a few times but, very happy with them so far. I like the integrated “teeth” to tighten the zip tie before trimming.

 

[jmf535]

I have a pair of the KBN-125's and I like them as well. I actually prefer them over the Knipex that I have.
The rounded jaws make it much easier to line them up in order to get a flush cut, and gipper comes in handy when you really need to snug it down.

The only downside, in my opinion, is the handle material. I find it cheap feeling and prefer the yellow material that is on other Tsunoda pliers. And spring would be a nice touch.

 

[jmf535]

Thank you for replying, I appreciate it!

Yes, nearly stripped. They use blue Loctite on both screws. I learned my lesson after the first one practically melted like butter, and yes, I was using a JIS screwdriver. The screws are just really soft. For the second screw, I tapped the screw to ”loosen” it and it came out fine. Now I’d like to be able to replace the screws with some Torx equivalents and not pay $40 for a Nepros repair kit just for one semi-stripped screw.

So, anyone have an idea what size screws they are? Thank you in advance.

I just measured mine, and it's a M2.5 x 7mm. Which isn't exactly the most common size in the world.
I'd just order some 6 and 8mm ones and see if either work. Worst case scenario, you'll have to file down the 8mm

 

[macgee]

I bought that exact pair from amazon. Have only used a few times but, very happy with them so far. I like the integrated “teeth” to tighten the zip tie before trimming.

I have a pair of the KBN-125's and I like them as well. I actually prefer them over the Knipex that I have.
The rounded jaws make it much easier to line them up in order to get a flush cut, and gipper comes in handy when you really need to snug it down.

The only downside, in my opinion, is the handle material. I find it cheap feeling and prefer the yellow material that is on other Tsunoda pliers. And spring would be a nice touch.

Thanks,

Thats good info. I really love my vintage Italian carbide EREM's but need to save them and find new ones for the everyday stuff. I have a pair of Knipex and not at all liking the feel, thick grips and shape of them.

I'm realizing I really like having a spring but these are cheap enough to try out and I'll also get the other cutter with yellow grips and spring.

Looks like the Hozan's are cheap in Japan but pricey here in the US and probably around the same quality as the Tsunoda's?

 

[General Geoff]

Followup: The new KTC roto ratchet is awesome. The time saved by pivoting the handle parallel to the square drive and utilizing it as a ratcheting screwdriver is something I never thought about till I started using it!

 

[darkzero]

Is that motorcyle literally just laying on the grass?

 

[General Geoff]

Is that motorcyle literally just laying on the grass?

Yes, it provided better access to the foot peg and related brackets that needed removal/replacement after a crash. No harm done, the bike was laid down gently onto the soft grass and picked back up with no additional damage following repairs.