Using Harbor freight electric hoist to move steam radiators

[branimal]

I've got to restore 7 cast iron steam radiators. I've done 4 already - I remove the old paint and crud using a lye bath and then paint the radiators.

For the bigger radiators I have to ask for a friend's help 3x for each radiator. One to get the radiator into the bath, 2nd time to flip it, and a third time to get the radiator out of the bath.

I'd like to use the HF electric hoist to make this a one man operation. I can attach metal square tube onto ceiling joists and then use the brackets on the top of the HF hoist to move the radiators from the lye bath to another bath to wash off the muck. Like an assembly line.

This seems good in theory - but is it going to work?

HF electric hoist

 

[mike93lx]

Without any details on the structure, how could anyone know it it would work?

Is this a one and done project? I'd consider a gantry to avoid putting excessive stress on a part of a building that wasn't made for it

 

[zendriver]

how much do you think the radiators weigh?

if they're what I remember should work.

 

[branimal]

Without any details on the structure, how could anyone know it it would work?

Is this a one and done project? I'd consider a gantry to avoid putting excessive stress on a part of a building that wasn't made for it

Rough sawn Joists are 2 3/4" W x 8" H x 20' L. Spacing is roughly 16", but varies +/- 3".

Plan is to screw 2x blocks on 2 joists about 8' apart. And screw the metal square tube to the blocks. This will give me some spacing off the joist to fit the hoist's brackets.

I've got a few radiators to do in the next couple of months. And then the remaining radiators about 8 months from now.

how much do you think the radiators weigh?

if they're what I remember should work.

They vary. I'd guess anywhere from 125 - 225lbs for the really big ones.

I'd guess the rad below is about 165lbs. Also attached a pic of the joists.

 

[driftpin]

I have a Harbor Freight hoist I adapted to a jib crane to lift heavy items in the shop and to place things into a garage loft. It works great and I do not stand anywhere the load could fall onto me.

You can see the 4" X 8" X 1/2" steel box beam the jib crane is through-bolted to, on the floor of the loft. The box beam runs from CBS wall-to-wall where it's welded to flitch plates set in 8" X 24" concrete columns which run from the top of wall concrete tie beams to the poured concrete footers.

By 'heavy items,' I mean something a few hundred pounds at most.



Your weight isn't too-much but I'd use steel plate brackets through-bolted to the ceiling joists, and the square tubing through-bolted or welded to the steel plate brackets. Put your joist holes in the middle of the joists, not close to the edges.

 

[billconner]

Is that a floor, attic, or roof above? I'm guessing roof because of size and span, in which case maybe if designed for snow and working in summer, you're fine. If attic, I'd "unload" an the area over you beam - several feet each side.

200 or so pounds is not a lot, so should be possible with a little thought.

 

[seber]

I see no problem with what you are doing except the screws. You need to put bolts through the joists not screws into them.

 

[no704]

I’d look at unistrut trolleys. Might be better to use u bolts to attach to the wood

 

[GeoBruin]

I’d look at unistrut trolleys. Might be better to use u bolts to attach to the wood

Yep. Screw lengths of unistrut along the joists in the area you want to work in, then get some strut trolleys to run in them and carry a length of unistrut in the transverse direction. If you have trolleys every 16ish inches, the longest unsupported span is only 16 inches and for the weights you're talking about, 12 gauge unistrut is plenty strong. You then have a couple more trolleys supporting the hoist itself.
Otherwise, use your square tube (and support it at both ends.

I built myself a bridge crane with some wide flange I beam and I use a HF hoist. It has been great. If you're in SoCal, I've got a 440 lb (single line) / 880 lb (double line) HF hoist I will sell you cheap. I just upgraded!

 

[rayra]

You could make a sturdy gantry crane frame for that with 4"x8" beams.

 

[nadogail]

I agree with those who feel you have not provided enough information. A Gantry will be supported by the floor it stands on and can be fitted with casters to make it maneuverable.

 

[zendriver]

Plan is to screw 2x blocks on 2 joists about 8' apart

Not an engineer but I believe attaching to more joists than two = equals more load bearing.

 

[dogdog]

If you are not moving it down flights of stairs. 2 HF moving Dollie’s will work fine. Heck I have moved mine 6x about 3/4 of your size also about 150lb , taller down one flight with out an issue… use moving dolly. Or if you have a friend that have an engine hoist. That also works better than dolly. Use the $10 heavy duty straps from homedepot to help you warps it around for better grip.

I wouldn’t want to damage those joist with lag bolts.

 

[branimal]

I picked up the HF electric hoist with a 25% off coupon.

I stopped by lowes and got a 10' long unistrut.

I see lowes sells unistrut trolleys online. Heres a pic and link.

Unistrut trolleys at lowes

I think I can use 4 pieces of metal angle to "sandwich" the trolleys. Drilling holes into the angle to line up the hoists threads and the trolley's attachment point. 2 bolts per trolley.

Screw the trolley into the each joist. I've got some extra 5/16" x 5 1/8" GRK structural screws laying around. They are rated for 1314lbf.

Is that a floor, attic, or roof above?

above those ceiling joists is a finished floor.

 

[billconner]

Well, leave hoist unloaded when you're having a big party upstairs and probably fine.

 

[dogdog]

I stopped by lowes and got a 10' long unistrut.



Screw the trolley into the each joist. I've got some extra 5/16" x 5 1/8" GRK structural screws laying around. They are rated for 1314lbf.



above those ceiling joists is a finished floor.

Well, if you are going that route, just make sure you figure out a way to attach those screws from the side of the joist, not attaching it from under. When you attached it from the side, it dependents on the shear strength more, if you attach from under, it will dependent on the tension strength of the screw head plus the wood, plus the screw that hold into the wood. I am not sure what those GRK structural screw rating are for. probably not for tension loads. (hope I explain this correctly)