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Craftsman Drill Press Information Belts, Bearings, Chucks, Keys, etc…1946-1984

11b30b4

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Welcome to the newly Updated (May 2023) Craftsman Drill Press “go to thread”.
If you have one of these types of drill presses, this thread is for you. Bookmark, subscribe, whatever; so that you can find it when you need it.
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This thread is primarily targeted at new owners of vintage Craftsman Drill Presses built from 1946-1984. Most of this information is generalized and where it is specific, a model number will be noted. If you need v-belts, ball bearings, Jaocob’s Chucks, or Chuck Keys, this thread has that information for you. Before you can get the stuff you need, you must know what model drill press you have.
Note: as we learn more about these drill presses, I will attempt to update this thread. Please post in the thread or message me if you see something that is incorrect or you have something to add to the information.
This thread will cover all American made Craftsman 15.5” drill presses from 1946-1984. During this period, we saw the 100 series, the 150 series, and the Emerson Generations 1-4.5. All of the 15.5” drill presses during this time frame were manufactured by King Seeley or Emerson. The 100 series, 150 series and the Emerson Gen 1 series are all considered the Classic Craftsman Drill Press with that art deco look.
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Although, many of these drill presses were advertised as 15” drill presses, all of them are 15.5” drill presses. During this same time frame there were also 12.5” and 13.5” and some other sizes. Many of these were called the 80 series and one year a 12.5” was also called a 100 series but this thread will stick with the 15.5” drill presses.

So how do you measure a drill press?
The size is determined by measuring the distance from the column to the center of the chuck. On all of these drill presses, the measurement is 7 ¾”. This means you can drill to the center of a 15 ½” circle.
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I own several of these machines from a wide spectrum of the time span; however, I am not an expert of these machines. I have a good amount of experience using and rebuilding these machines and I owe a special thanks to FrankLee, Hoorn, JoCoSawdust, and the many others that have helped me to acquire the knowledge I have of these machines.
I welcome any additional information to this thread, and I hope this thread helps the new owners of these amazing machines.

Which machine do you have?
You need to know a few things about your drill press. If you are confident, you know what series and year of production your drill press is and you are here to get information about bearings and other parts then skip to here:
If you are not sure what series or year of production of Drill Press you have then sit back and start your education here:

Getting to know your Drill Press
The quickest and most reliable method to determine the year of your drill press is to look at the motor data panel. This assumes that your motor is the original Craftsman motor partnered with your drill press at the time it was sold. There are some exceptions, and I will go over them as we progress.

Step 1 Motor Data
Although most of these drill presses were available without motors, most were sold with a motor, or the purchaser bought a motor at the same time and installed it on the drill press. For this reason, if you have a Craftsman motor on the drill press, somewhere on the motor data panel there should be a numerical date code sometimes listed as the MFG. No. It will likely look like “F4 50”. To the best of my knowledge this is a date code for June 4th, 1950.
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The date code should have a letter associated with a two-digit year that falls within the time frame of the drill press series. The letters equate to months and the letter “I” is omitted:
A=January
B=February
C=March
D=April
E=May
F=June
G=July
H=August
J=September
K=October
L=November
M=December
So, if you have a Craftsman King Seeley 100 series and the date code is F4 50, the “50” indicates 1950 and the 100 series was produced between 1946 and 1957. 1950 fits within this window and the “F4” indicates June 4th. This simple process lets you somewhat date your drill press, assuming that the motor was purchased with or at the same time as the drill press. If the motor is missing the data panel, then another possible source for a date is the capacitor. This is especially true if the motor is a Craftsman 115.6962. The 6962 is the most common motor for the 100 series and most of the 150 series. The 6962 is a capacitor start motor that uses a flat “sardine can” capacitor. Of all the 6962 motors I have worked on, I have only had to replace the capacitor on one motor. All the other 6962 motors I have worked on dating back to 1946 are still running like new with the original capacitor.

NOTE- these capacitors are no longer produced and replacing one today means you will need to alter the motor base with a spacer or some other method because today’s capacitors are round and thicker than the base of the motor. Regardless, the original capacitors will likely have a date stamped on them and most of the time you can still read the date on them.
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If you do not have an original craftsman motor or all attempts to date the motor have failed there are some design features within each drill press series that can help narrow down the year. The following is a roll up of each series and its subsets:

Step 2 Determine which series you drill press have.
  • Craftsman King Seeley 100 Series (1946-1957)
  • Craftsman King Seeley 150 Series (1958-1964)
  • Craftsman Emerson 150 Series (AKA Generation 1) (1964-1966)
  • Craftsman Emerson Gen 2 Series (1967-1969)
  • Craftsman Emerson Gen 3 Standard Series (1970-1972)
  • Craftsman Emerson Gen 3 Commercial Series (1971-1972)
  • Craftsman Emerson Gen 4 Standard Series (1973-1984)
  • Craftsman Emerson Gen 4 Commercial Series (1975-1983)
Classic Craftsman Drill Press Series by year (A Brief Overview)

Craftsman King Seeley 100 series (1946-1957)

The King Seeley era 100 series was manufactured from 1946 to 1957 and were sold in both a bench top and floor standing model with or without motors. The 100 series is most recognizable by the “engine turned” headband panel and separate Craftsman logo panel above the headband.
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Craftsman King Seeley 100 Series Subsets
1946 through early 1951

The Jacob’s Chuck # 6A-33 (AKA Jacob’s Model 34 Chuck) was included on all 100s

May 1951 through 1957
The Jacob’s “Safe-Lock” Chuck Model 633C (AKA 34B) (with the paneled sleeve) was included on all 100s. The plane sleeve 633C was introduced with the 150 in 1958.
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Mid 1951 through 1953
Sometime in mid-1951 the engine turned headband panel was omitted. All 1952 and most 1953 100s were shipped without headbands. In addition to the missing headband, some of these drill presses came with all the chrome parts (feed stop bracket, quill lock, feed return spring tension knob, pinion hub, and feed return rods) painted gray regardless of the color of the drill press. Also, some of these models came with bakelite black feed handle knobs instead of the red bakelite knobs.
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Additionally, there were two styles of engine turned headbands. One type is embossed and the other is engine turning that was less pronounced. It is unclear what years these two types collate with.
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Tilting Table
1946-1955

All 100’s came with a tilting table until sometime in 1955 when the tilting table was replaced with a static table.
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1956-1957
100 series sold in 1956 and 1957 came with static (non-tilting tables)
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Floor Standing Column Height
1946-1955

All 100 floor standing columns were 67” tall.

1956-1957
All 100 floor standing columns were shortened to 62” tall.
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Lock Screw Handles
Early 100s came with Chrome 2-piece lock handles.
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Mid production 100s came with Atlas type ball end 1-piece lock handles.
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Late production 100s (Probably 1957) came with 150 type 1-piece lock handles.
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Lock Handle Nut & Sleeve
Early 100s came with Zamak cast lock sleeves and nuts and used a nut insert. It is unclear when the transition took place but later lock sleeves and lock nuts were made of hardened steel and the nut was threaded omitting the additional nut.
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Feed Stop Rods
Early 100s came with feed stop rods that were 5/8-18 thread pitch. Later models came with 5/8-12 ACME thread pitch.
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Feed Stop Bracket
Early 100s came with feed stop brackets that were not slotted all the way to the end of the stop rod hole. Later models came with a feed stop bracket that was slotted all the way.
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Paint Color
The 100 series drill press was produced in two different colors. Early models were a machine blue gray; however, sometime between 1956 and 1957 the color was changed to power bronze.
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Base Casting
Early 100 series base castings for both the benchtop and floor standing drill presses had recessed bolt holes for mounting. Sometime in 1957 the base for both the benchtop and the floor standing models was changed and the mounting holes were only slightly recessed.
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Third Quill Support
It is unknow what years correspond but there was a period where 100s came with a third quill support inside the head casting.
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Craftsman Logo Panels
The Craftsman Logo Panels that sit above the headband panel changed of the years and there are four distinct panels. These dates range beyond the production dates of the 100 series because they are used on other tools sold by Craftsman. There are some smaller variations, like the font size changed some during the versions but information is limited.
1945-1949
Pointy A in Craftsman, US Pat Office, Guaranteed Highest Quality
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1949-1951
The blocky/rectangular badge
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1951-1957
Flat top A in Craftsman, US Pat Office markings
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1957-1961
Flat top A in Craftsman, Reg. Trade Mark
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Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1946-1955

103.23130
103.23131
103.23140
103.23141

1956-1957
103.24811
103.24812
103.24821
103.14820
103.24810

NOTE- some late 1957 100s came with many 150 parts such as the increased size of threads for the hub and feed handle rods (from 3/8-16tp to 1/2-13tp) , tilting motor mounts, and 150 type lock handles.
That should help in narrowing down the year of your Craftsman King Seeley 100 Series.

Craftsman King Seeley 150 series (1958-1964)
The 150 series is very similar to the 100 series in appearance and features. The King Seeley era 150 series was manufactured from 1958 to 1964 and were sold in both a bench top and floor standing model with or without motors. The 150 series has several improvements that make it a different model, but the most recognizable feature is the one-piece headband panel with “150” printed on it. The 150 combined the Craftsman Logo into the headband panel and Craftsman dropped the engine turned panel for a colored graphics panel.
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Other obvious changes from the 100 series were a tilting motor mount and a quick adjusting feed stop.
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A quill stop retaining ring.
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The Jacob’s Safe Lock Chuck was changed from a paneled sleeve to a plain sleeve.
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In 1964 Emerson took over production so during 1964 there were 150s made by both King Seeley and Emerson. We will cover the Emerson 150 in the next section. Just keep in mind that if your drill press model number has a prefix of 103 it was produced by King Seeley and if the prefix is 113 it was produced by Emerson.
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Craftsman King Seeley 150 Series Subsets

Motor Types
1958-1959

Based on pictures in the tool catalogs, 150s sold from 1958 through 1959 were partnered with the Craftsman ½ HP 1750 RPM capacitor-start motor model 115.6962.
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1960-1964
Again, based on catalog pictures, it looks like several different motors were partnered with the 150s from 1960 until Emerson took over production in 1964.

Feed Return Spring Tension Knob
1958-1963

All 150s sold between 1958 and 1963 were produced with the same feed retention spring system that was used in the 100 series. All of these drill presses will have the chrome external spring tension knob on the left side of the head casting. These 150s will also have the tension knob lock screw, the pinion lock screw and fibre washer, the pinion will have a channel cut out for the dog point of the lock screw to ride in. The feed retention spring will be the same spring as the 100s, a dog leg one end and double loop other end 51 coil torsion spring.
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1964
In 1964 and probably associated with Emerson assuming production, the feed return spring system was changed. The new feed return spring system included a roll pin inside the head casting that anchored the left side of the spring.
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The tension was adjusted with the Hub, Pinion, & Spring Assembly. A thin fibre washer was added to the pinion and the chrome tension knob, tension knob lock screw, pinion lock screw and fibre washer were omitted. The feed retention spring was changed to a double loop “both ends” 51 coil torsion spring.
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Tilting Motor Mount Brackets
There were three types of tilting motor mount brackets, and it is unclear when each type was used.
The early type tilting motor mount bracket had a hole at the bottom that used a screw with nuts on both side of the bracket to fix the screw. There was a rubber bumper on the end of the screw where it rested on the backside of the head casting.
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The next type included a spot-welded threaded boss (sleeve) on the bottom that the screw was threaded into and a rubber bumper on the screw where is rested on the back side of the head casting.
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The later type had a clip at the bottom. The bottom support of the head casting was beefed up and a threaded hole on the back of the head casting has a threaded screw that protruded from the head and snapped into the clip on the motor mount bracket.
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Drill Press Paint Colors
Again it is unclear what years correspond with paint colors but the 150 was sold in both Power Bronze and a Dark Gray (almost charcoal) color.
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Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1958-1963

103.24520
103.24521
103.24531
103.24530

1964-1966
103.24500
103.24501
103.24511
103.24510

Craftsman Emerson 150 series (AKA Emerson Generation 1) (1964-1966)
The Emerson Gen 1 is identical to the 1964 King Seeley 150. The new feed retention spring system was used on all Emerson 150s and they were sold in both a bench top and floor standing model with or without motors.
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NOTE- Similar to the King Seeley 150 series, there was some variations in the Emerson 150 series. All three types of tilting motor mounts and both the Atlas style ball end lock handles and the 150 style lock handles have been seen on Emerson 150s.

Model Number Panels
One of the advantaged to the Emerson era drill presses was that most if not all of them included a year of production on the model number panel.
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In this example you can see the “CODE” K65. This is likely indicating that this drill press was manufactured in October of 1965.

Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1964-1966

113.24501
113.24511

Craftsman Emerson Generation 2 (1967-1969)
The Emerson Gen 2 drill press was a completely redesigned headstock 15.5” drill press. Although the headstock and table look very different, many of the internal parts and functions are generally the same as the 150 series. The largest change in this drill press was the longer spindle and quill which resulted in a longer spindle travel from the 4" travel of the Gen 1 to a 6" spindle travel in this Gen 2. The most recognizable feature of the Emerson Gen 2 is the large open gap in the headstock.
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The floor base and column are the same as the Gen 1 but the headstock and table were new designs.
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The Gen 2 was available in both the bench top and floor standing models with or without motors.
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Panels
The front of the belt cover had a transparent spindle speed diagram.
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The front nose of the head casting had a color coded drill press function diagram.
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Variations
Over the three-year run of the Gen 2, there were some slight differences in the thickness of the tables. Also, there were variations in the guard plate.
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And the belt cover pivot shaft, but I am unable to identify what years these variations took place.

Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1967-1969

113.24540
113.24560
113.245601

Craftsman Emerson Generation 3 & 3.5 (1970-1972)
The Emerson Gen 3 was a complete redesign of the headstock and floor base. Additionally, Craftsman marketed a standard version and a beefed-up commercial version of the Emerson Gen 3 drill press. Internally, the largest change is the pulley system. The Gen 3 introduced the 6” 8-step pulley that would continue across later generations. The v-belt was changed from ½” to 3/16” wide belt to accommodate the new pulley size.
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The table and head casting lock handles were changed to a straight handle with vinyl covers. The vinyl lock handle covers were a red/orange color.
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The feed stop rod and feed stop collar were changed and the depth gauge scale was moved from the feed stop rod to the side of the head casting.
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All Gen 3 and Commercial Gen 3 came with a plastic belt cover. The model number was moved from the base casting to the back side of the head casting. Again, the model number plate included a date code. The Gen 3 was available in both the bench top and floor standing models with or without motors.
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The Gen 3 can be easily identified by the table which was a single plane milled surface similar to the Gen 2.
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Panels
The front of the belt cover had a spindle speed diagram.
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The side panels were also unique, the left side had a color coded drill press function diagram.
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And the right side was blank.
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Switch Design
1970-1971

With the newly designed head casting came a two-switch design. There was a black rocker type switch to operate the light and a red rocker type switch to operate the motor.
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1972 Generation 3.5
In 1972 the red rocker type switch that operated the motor was changed to a red safety lock out switch with a removable yellow key.
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Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1970-1972

113.24580
113.24581
113.24590
113.24591

Craftsman Emerson Commercial Generation 3 & 3.5 (1971-1972)
The Gen 3 Commercial model ran concurrently with the standard Gen 3 model.
The Gen 3 Commercial model has a split head. Literally, there is a gap on the front of the headstock nose from the bottom and running vertically up ¾ of the head. There are 3 set screws on the left side of the headstock to adjust take-up in the quill backlash.
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Additionally, the table was a larger table with T-nut slots and a coolant trough so looking for the split head and/or the T-slot table are the easiest way to identify a commercial model.
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There is also an eccentric bearing on the pinion to adjust the feed backlash. Many of the internal parts look similar to the standard Gen 3 but are thicker or beefier. The vinyl lock handle covers were a yellow color.
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The Gen 3 Commercial was available as a floor standing model only with or without motors.

Switch Design
1971

The Gen 3 Commercial was equipped with a single (horizontally mounted) red rocker type switch to operate the motor. The Gen 3 Commercial drill press did not include a light.
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1972 Generation 3.5
Similar to the standard Gen 3, in 1972 the red rocker type switch that operated the motor was changed to a red safety lock out switch with a removable yellow key, again the Gen 3.5 did not include a light.
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Panels
The front of the belt cover had a Commercial panel
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The left side panel
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The right side panel
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Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1971 Commercial Gen 3

113.24630
113.24631

1972 Commercial Gen 3.5
113.24611
113.24612
 
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11b30b4

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Craftsman Emerson Generation 4 (1973-1984)
The Emerson Gen 4 drill press was a refinement of the Gen 3 model, they are very similar in appearance. The Gen 4 was a long running drill press design (11 years) and second only to the 100 (12 years) drill press.
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The easiest way to identify a Gen 4 from a Gen 3 the is the table. A Gen 3 table had a single milled surface across the entire top of the table including the area around the column very similar to the Gen 2. The Gen 4 table has a raised (approximately 3/16”) milled table surface and the boss (ring) around the column bore; however, the area between the table surface and column was recessed and painted.
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The vinyl lock handle covers were a red/orange color. All Gen 4 standard models have side panels that display tap sizes and spindle speeds although the color of the printing varied over the years of production.
All Gen 4 models have a dual switch (red light & red safety lock motor) design similar the Gen 3.5. The Gen 4 was available as a floor standing model only with or without motors.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/media/img_7666-jpg.115671/full[/IMG]

Panels
The front of the belt cover panel went through several variations
1973-1976 Craftsman Black Letters
1977 Craftsman White Letters
1978-1984
The side panels
Left Side
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/media/img_7669-jpg.115674/full
Right Side
[IMG width="720px" height="648px"]https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/media/img_7668-jpg.115673/full

Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1973-1977

113.21370
113.21371

1978-1980
113.21376

1980-1984
113.213780

Craftsman Emerson Commercial Generation 4 & 4.5 (1975-1983)
The Gen 4 Commercial model ran concurrently with the standard Gen 4 model.
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The Gen 4 Commercial model was almost identical to the Gen 3.5 commercial. It had a split head and 3 set screws on the left side of the headstock to adjust take-up in the quill backlash. The table was the same T-nut slot and a coolant trough table as the Gen 3 Commercial. The Gen 4 Commercial also had the eccentric bearing on the pinion to adjust the feed backlash. The vinyl lock handle covers were a yellow color. The Gen 4 Commercial was available as a floor standing model only with or without motors.

Switch Design
1975-1977

The Gen 4 Commercial was equipped with a single (horizontally mounted) red safety lock out switch with a removable yellow key and did not include a light just like the Commercial Gen 3.5.
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1978-1983 Generation 4.5
Similar to the standard Gen 4, in 1978 the single horizontal red safety lock out switch was changed to a vertical dual switch system. A red rocker type switch for the now included light and a red safety lock out switch for the motor.
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Panels
The front of the belt cover panel 1975-1977
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Front belt cover panel 1978-1983
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The side panels went through some color changes but had the same data.
Left Side
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Right Side
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Model numbers by year based on Tool Catalogs/ Owners Manuals
1975-1977

113.24611
113.24612

1978-1983
113.24522
113.24520

Hopefully now you now know what model drill press you have.

Next, if you do not already have one, this is the link to the Craftsman publications page on Vintage machinery. You should be able to find an Owner’s Manual for your drill press there.


Here are the sources for the replaceable parts:

All the parts below are broken down into four categories:

  • For use on all Craftsman 15.5” Drill Presses (King Seeley 100 & 150, Emerson Gen 1-5, Emerson Gen 3-4 Commercial).
  • For use on specific Craftsman 15.5” Drill Presses (King Seeley 100 & 150, Emerson Gen 1 & 2).
  • For use on specific Craftsman 15.5” Drill Presses (Emerson Gen 3-5).
  • For use on specific Craftsman 15.5” Drill Presses (Emerson Gen 3 & 4 Commercial).
Feed Return Spring

NOTE
- The OEM feed return spring is no longer manufactured.

There are three spring sizes and types for the drill presses covered in this thread.

For all the King Seeley 100 and 150 models with the external tension knobs, the spring is a single loop (one end) and dog leg (other end) coil torsion spring about 4” long and about 5/8” in diameter. The wire is approximately 12 gauge (about 0.0770”) thick. There are approximately 51 coils in a right-hand wind on the spring.

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Note: Not covered in this thread is the 80 drill press. The 80 series used a similar spring that was 5” long and had 64 coils.

For the late King Seeley 150 and all Emerson Gen 1-5 standard 15.5” drill presses, the spring is a double loop (both ends) coil torsion spring about 4” long and about 5/8” in diameter. The wire is approximately 12 gauge (about 0.0770”) thick. There are approximately 51 coils in a right-hand wind on the spring. So, the spring is the same spring as the 100 and 150 series except it has loops on both ends. This is because is it captured internally by hooking on a roll pin.
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Note- it is possible to modify one of these double loop springs to work on an early 100 or 150 by cutting one of the loos and bending a dog leg on one end.

The third type of spring is the spring used on the Gen 3 and 4 Commercial drill presses. Seen in the picture below, the Commercial drill press feed return spring is on the right. The spring is a single loop on both ends, coil torsion spring about 6 1/4” long and about 5/8” in diameter. The wire is approximately 12 gauge (about 0.0770”) thick. There are approximately 67 coils in a right-hand wind on the spring.

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I had a local spring manufacturer produce new springs for the 100, 150 standard Emerson Gen 1-4 drill presses. I am selling them on ebay.
I am now selling the Commercial model springs on ebay as well.


V-belt

For the 100, 150, Emerson Gen 1 and 2, the V-belt is a ½” x 45” V-belt. I prefer a cogged V-belt because it will move around the pulleys better and its quitter. I normally use the Drualast Cogged V-belt from AutoZone. Duralast V-belt series 17xxx is what I use. The 17450 is the ½” x 45” cogged V-belt but you can use any of the ½” V-belts between 43”-45”. Here is a link to the 17450. At my AutoZone its $8.99.


For the Emerson Gen 3-5 standard and commercial drill presses, the V-belt is a 3/16” x 45” V-belt. You can find lots of them on Amazon, eBay, etc.. just google 45” x 3/16” V-belt. Here is just one such belt on Amazon.


Jacob’s chuck

The OEM chuck look like this.

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All Craftsman 15.5” (King Seeley and Emerson) drill presses have a #33 Jacob’s taper on the spindle as well as a threaded thrust collar. So, all of them are compatible with the Jacob’s 34-33C Chuck.

The original chuck was a “made in the USA” Jacob’s brand #33 taper chuck. The chuck is a plain bearing heavy duty keyed ½” chuck with a safety collar, Jacob’s part number 14451. The chuck is a 34 series chuck, Jacobs model number 34-33C. This is the same chuck that has been on all Craftsman 15.5” drill presses since the 1940s until 1986. The safety collar was not introduced until 1952 (although there is evidence of its use in 1951) so all previous chucks had a thread protector on the thrust collar. This thread protector looks just like the safety collar but is not connected to the chuck. It is also possible to see chucks and thread protectors where the sleeve is machined with panels and not smooth. Here is a picture of one of these paneled sleeves.

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Replacement chucks can be ordered from Jacob’s or several other suppliers such as this link from Zoro (note often the picture shown is the paneled sleeve chuck without the safety collar, but it is the exact same chuck as the original and it comes with a key). Also, be advised that Jacob’s no longer makes chucks in the USA and any new Jacob’s brand chuck will be made in Asia. I have several of these Asian made replacement chucks and they are very high quality.

For some reason the link to the chuck does not work when I paste it here but go to Zoro.com and search for Jacobs 14451.

Jacob’s Chuck Key

The chuck key for the Jacobs model number 34-33C chuck is an 11 tooth 5/16” pilot key. Jacob’s sales the key as part number JCM2948 and model number S-K3C and is should look like this.

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These keys will have a turned down (smaller) tip on the end of the key. This tip was designed to remove and install the threaded safety collar; however, it does not work well, and I have had the tip break off on several keys. I prefer a spanner wrench to install and remove the chuck (see below for spanner information). Also, the OEM key is likely not a self-ejecting key and was probably model number K3. The S in the model number means it is a spring loaded self-ejecting pilot and the C means it has the turned down tip for the safety collar.

You can order replacement keys from Jacobs and other suppliers such as this one from Grainger.


Bearings, Spindle Pulley Assembly (x2)

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For all of these drill presses 100, 150, Emerson Gen 1-5 including the commercial models, the two spindle pulley assembly bearings are the largest. They are both 6205 bearings. They measure 25mm bore x 52mm OD x 15mm tall.

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The OEM bearings are double shielded (often expressed with ZZ or 2Z in the part number), but you can use shielded (ZZ) or sealed (often expressed with 2RS or RR in the part number). I normally order my bearings from Accurate bearings, but a simple search will produce lots of options from various sellers. I prefer Japanese or American bearings over Chinese bearings. This is a link to a Nachi double shielded 6205ZZ bearing on Amazon. Remember you need two of them.


Bearings, Quill (x2)

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On all of these drill presses except the commercial models, the two quill bearings are 6202 5/8” bore. A standard 6202 bearing has a 15mm bore so you need a special bore bearing. The 6202 5/8” bore measures 5/8” bore x 35mm OD x 11mm tall. (Note- some of the part diagrams only identify one bearing but there are two). Both of the OEM bearings are double shielded, but you can use shielded or sealed bearings. As I said, I order my bearings from Accurate bearing, but you can get them anywhere as long as they are the correct measurements. This is a link to a NSK 6202 5/8” bore double sealed ball bearing from Amazon. Remember, you need two of them.


For the Emerson Gen 3 & 4 Commercial models, the quill bearings are different.

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The top quill bearing is a 6203ZZ bearing measuring 40mm x 12mm with a 17mm bore. The OEM bearing is double shielded, but a replacement can be shielded or sealed. Here is a link to a Nachi 6203ZZ bearing on Amazon:


The bottom quill bearing on the commercial models is a double row ball bearing. To remove it from the spindle you will need to drift the roll pin retaining the thrust collar and remove the thrust collar. (Note- thrust collars are unique on all craftsman drill presses and must be reattached exactly as they were removed in order for the proper gap of the Jacob’s Chuck safety collar to align). The original bearing is a 5503 double row ball bearing, double shielded measuring 40mm x 17.5mm with a 17mm bore. The bearing standards changed and the new bearing number is 5203 ZZ with the same measurements of 40mm x 17.5mm with a 17mm bore. Here is a link from eBay for a Nachi equivalent 5203ZZ bearing.


V-Belts
For all 15.5” 100 and 150 series and the Emerson Gen 1 and Gen 2, you need a ½” x 45” V-belt
I prefer a cogged V-belt and recommend the Duralast 17455 cogged V-belt from autozone.


For all 15.5 Emerson Gen 3 and Gen 4, including the commercial models, you need a 3/16” x 45” V-belt.


Spindle Washer (Rubber) & Quill Bumper (Rubber)

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On all of these 15.5” drill presses (except the commercial models) there are two rubber washer/ O-Rings. Often these are in bad shape given the age of these drill presses. Garage Journal member FrankLee no longer sales these; however I am now selling them on the classifieds page.

The information for you to order your own O-rings from McMaster-Carr is below.

1 Quill Gasket
Square Profile Oil Resistant Buna-N O-Ring 1 5/8" x 2" x 3/16"
McMaster-Carr part # 4061T292

1 Spindle Rubber Washer
Oil-Resistant Buna-N O-Ring 1" x 5/8" x 3/16"
McMaster-Carr part # 9452K385

Note- if you are rebuilding a motor for your drill press, there is a lot of information about the various Craftsman motors here on GJ. I have a thread specifically about Craftsman vintage motors here:


Additionally, here is a link to the craftsman page on Vintage Machinery. Along the top of this page there is a tab for publication reprints, and you can most likely find the Owner’s Manual for your motor:


Lastly, Vintage Machinery has a replacement bearing lists that also may be of use:


Quill Feed Replacement Rods

For all Craftsman 15.5” drill presses, there are two sized quill feed rods depending on what modle drill press you have. Often, I see members who purchased a used drill press with missing rods and/or knobs. Luckily, a Garage Journal member Oldironowner makes reproduction rods and I have purchased a set from him in the past. These are top quality at a great price. Here is a link to his sale thread:


Quill Feed knobs

On all of the King Seeley 100 and 150 series and the Emerson Gen1 (150) series drill presses the knobs are a reddish plastic similar to Bakelite. I have not found a direct replacement; however, this link may help you in finding a suitable replacement in black:


Replacement decals and data plates

On all the models of drill presses and motors, if you are unable to clean up your badges and want to replacement them. Garage Journal member MattBlast can reproduce almost anything. I have used him for model number data plates, motor data plates and I am very pleased with the results. Here is his link:


100 Series Engine Turned Panel

For all 100 series drill presses with the engine turned insert panel on the headstock. If your panel is missing or too damaged and you want to place it. You can purchase some engine turned vinyl and apply it to the original or cut out a replacement out of aluminum and apply the vinyl to it. The vinyl is available in small circles and large circles. I am not sure which is a closer match to the original panel but you can do a search for Engine Turned Vinyl and compare it to you original panel. Here is a link to some small engine turned vinyl.


Other things you may need:

Spanner Wrench


The best tool I have found to install and remove the safety collar on the Jacobs Chuck is this GEARWRENCH 3/4" to 2" Adjustable Pin Black Oxide Spanner Wrench 3/16" Pin - 81861, made by Gearwrench Apex Tools, It looks like this.

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These are available from several suppliers such as this link from ZORO.


Drive Screws

These things are known as Drive Screws, Panel Screws, and Screw Nails. I use drive screws to reattach data plates to all my drill presses. They come in variety of sizes and the holes in the data plates and in the cast-iron will determine your needs. These things are cheap, so I tend to order several sizes but the size I use most is #4 ¼” long. A pack of 100 from McMaster-Carr is $4.00.

Column Pipe

I use a 6’ tall piece of 4” PVC sewer pipe with a cemented cap on one end to soak the column inside. Both the pipe and cap can be purchased at any big box hardware store.

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Consumables I use:

Simple Green


After disassembly, I place all metal parts that do not have graphics in a bath of Simple Green for 24 hours to degrease and remove paint. HD has a good deal on 2.5 Gal for $20.00. Note, I only soak aluminum parts for 2 hours then rinse off.

Citric Acid

I mix 1 shot glass per gallon of cold water for my Citric Acid solution to remove rust. I place all metal parts that do not have graphics into a citric acid bath (outdoors) for 24 hours. I buy 10 lbs bags of Milliard brand citric acid from Amazon for $40.00. Note, I do not soak aluminum parts in citric acid.

Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish

I use Mother’s Mag & Aluminum Polish to polish all bare metal surfaces (other then the table) to a high shine Chrome like finish. You can find it at any of the Auto parts stores for about $10.00

Meguiar’s Liquid Cleaner Wax

I use Meguiar’s Liquid Cleaner Wax to clean and polish all plastic parts (knobs, belt cover, etc.) as well as all data plates.

PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst

I use PB Blaster to loosen rusted and stuck parts during disassembly. You can get a 18 oz can from Lowes for $ 7.00.

Mystik No.2 JT-6 High Temp Grease with Moly EP #2

I use this grease to grease and pack my Jacobs Chucks. You can get a 14 oz tube from Grainger for $7.00

Super Lube Synthetic Grease NLGI 2

I use Super Lube Grease to grease and lube all moving parts in my drill presses. You can get a 14 oz tub from Amazon for $11.00.

Protexall Super Slick Stuff Lubricant

I use Protexall to lubricate all my bolts, nuts, washer and bare metal that does not get grease on all my drill presses. You can get a 11 oz can from Amazon for $ 8.00

SC Johnson Paste Wax

I use Johnson Paste Wax to wax and protect polished drill press columns and tables. You can get a 1lbs tub from Home Depot for $7.00.

Prime and paint

For all of my drill presses I prime the bare metal with a metal etching or self-etching primer and then paint. I prefer a hammered finish paint on my drill presses; however, in the interest of helping you all out here is some paint reference information.

For the 100 and 150 series, I am aware to two OEM color options.

Battleship grey, the closest color to the OEM that is available in a spray paint is Ace Hardware’s machinery grey spray paint.

Here is a pic by Garage Journal member Hoorn showing some motor parts painted with the Ace Hardware Machinery Grey.

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Power Bronze, the closest color to the OEM that is available in a spray paint is Rust-Oleum champagne mist metallic spray paint.

Here is a pic by Garage Journal member Hoorn showing a 100 series floor base repainted with the champagne mist. The part sitting on top of the base is from a 1957 12” disc sander in the original power bronze.

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For Emerson Gen 2-5 machines, the closets off the shelf match I found was is Krylon Tough Coat Rust Preventative Spray Paint in Gloss Blue/ Gray for Metal, Steel, 12 oz A01625007. I was getting these cans from Grainger, but the supply chain issues and Covid have made this next to impossible to get. This spray paint is very abrasive and chemical resistant making it a perfect choice for a drill press and the color is next to dead on. When it was available, I paid about $9.00 a can from Grainger. In this pic you can see a side by side OEM Craftsman paint (yellow circle) and the Krylon Tough Coat (red circle). The Krylon is more glossy but very close.

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However, for Emerson Gen 2-5 machines I now use the same etching primer, but I use a mixed PPG paint and apply it with an air compressor HVLP gun.

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PPG has automotive paint supply stores in most cities, and I got my spray gun from Harbor freight. The paint is the PPG Commercial Performance ALK-200 and the pre formulated color is (3134-Case-Gray-920255). I chose a stain finish for the paint and there is no mixing of a hardener required. This paint is very close to the OEM color. I purchased a gallon for about $75.00 but if you are doing only one drill press then a quart will be more than enough. I used less than 1” of the gallon on a Gen 4 Commercial Drill Press. In this pic you can see the PPG paint freshly painted and an OEM Craftsman Drill Press light bracket side by side.

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Here are a few specs for the PPG paint.

One part paint (no mixing)

Can be shot HVLP

Acrylic Modified Alkyd Enamel Interior/ Exterior

Fast Drying (Air-2-3 Hours) 7 days full cure

Moderate chemical resistance

Pencil hardness D3363

Comes in 5 different finishes

Cost effective

Accessories

For the King Seeley 100 and 150 series and the Emerson 150 Gen 1 machines one problem I have discovered is the limited speeds available with the 4-step pulley. This was an issue back in the 1950s as well and Craftsman had a solution. Actually, two mechanical solutions were sold as accessories.

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The Craftsman Vari-Slo Speed Control allowed the user to adjust the speed of the drill press on the fly. These are hard to find and often sell for $300.00. The Vari-Slo gave the user speed ranges from 300-3750 RPMs.

The Craftsman Multi-Speed Attachment (MSA) was an elegant solution of introducing a third pulley into the belt system of the drill press. Actual Craftsman MSAs are also hard to find and also run for about $300.00. The MSA gave the user speed ranges from 200-15,000 RPMs. Garage Journal member JZiggy makes an outstanding reproduction that he sales here on the forum. I own 3 of his “Slow Speed Pulleys and I love the design. Here is a link to his thread:


these are but a few of the accessories available, there are a lot more accessories and attachments for these amazing machines.

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Well, I hope someone finds this helpful.

Thanks for the interest.
 
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Maui

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Thank you for posting this extremely useful description of the parts, assembly, and history of the various classic Craftsman drill presses. I personally have been wondering what color of paint to use on mine. Now I know! :)

Maui
 

67carl

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Very well done! For me the best part is listing part numbers and sources, which many threads/posts don't include.
 

Hoorn

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To offer a "don't try this at home" moment, note on 11b's head stock, the later models that allowed for screws to secure the tilting motor mount (to minimize bounce during operation) had a raised boss cast onto the head.

IMG_6473~2.jpg

The first 150 I purchased had a tapped hole in roughly the same area and I "assumed" it was put there by King-Seeley. No! The PO I purchased it from drilled and tapped that hole:

78928.jpeg

FrankLee spotted this and brought it to my attention, and I packed the hole with JB Weld. It was right where the two halves of the cast head are joined and this made it susceptible to failure.
 

JEFinCLE

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Is the light on this press a factory option or a P.O. hack? I haven't seen it in any of the VM catalogs, but it looks like a pretty clean install. Better if there was a shade on it...

_nc_ohc=RMWDunrlLV8AX9k7WDO&_nc_ht=scontent-lga3-2.jpg
 
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11b30b4

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That light is not OEM. As far as I know, Craftsman offered two styles of "work lights" during the time frame of the 100/ 150 series and neither was specifically designed to be mounted to tools. I believe bother were designed to be mounted on work benches.

You can see both versions on this tool catalog page.

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I added a light to my 12” band saw seen here and IMO it looks more OEM than the pic you posted.

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More on the band saw build with links for the light parts here:

Lastly, I do add internal lights to all my drill presses. I make a bracket and install it in a similar method to the Gen 3 and Gen 4 Emerson Drill Presses.

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The internal drill press light information is in this thread.


Also I believe FrankLee, Hoorn, and JoCoSawdust have had some creative light designs for the drill presses.
 

JEFinCLE

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Yeah, I've been eyeing all the internal light posts. I'm planning on doing that for the .0303 I'm working on. The 100 I asked about is for sale and is only a couple miles from me. I don't think I want to deal with the extra hole in the head, though. Luckily, I live in a "target rich environment". I'm waiting for just the right Power Bronze 100 to show up.
 

Tarnished

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11lb: Fantastic post! I don't collect Craftsman, but to find a post this thorough is amazing. Thanks for taking the time as I know many folks would love this information all in one place. :beer:
 

19Vert64

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Ohio
“Luckily, Garage Journal member FrankLee sales replacement alternatives on eBay. His eBay seller name is gadgetarian and he sells this set for $2.80. Here is a link.”

link to eBay is dead, does he not sell these anymore?
Thanks
 
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11b30b4

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Update,

Hey guys, I will reach out to FrankLee and get the specifics for the O-rings.

On another note, I know that most people who repaint power bronze machines use Rust-Oleum Champagne Mist Metallic Spray Paint (261415). This color has been hard for me to locate so I decided to go with the Rust-Oleum Hammered Gold (7210) and have loved the look.

However, this past week I found Rust-Oleum Metallic Champagne Bronze (313142) locally and decided to test it on some PVC. In this pic the gold is on the left and the Champagne Bronze is on the right.

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I believe that is a fairly close match. I can not say if its closer than the Champaign mist since I do not have any to compare it with.

If you decided you are interested in this color, here is what to look for.

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nutjob

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Check Lowes. I was able to get 3 can of the Rust-Oleum Champagne Mist Metallic Spray Paint 261415 a couple of weeks ago and the web site does show stock at some stores.

Anyone find RUST-OLEUM 312818 Deep Slate? This is a close match for Craftsman toolbox drawers.

Kevin
 

nutjob

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I just ordered some of the 6202-5/8-2RS and motor size 87502 IK bearings from Accurite and they only have China bearings for these sizes.
The 6202-5/8 are $4.45 Might as well get from Amazon...
Other bearings I ordered are made in India.
Last order from McMaster were Made in Korea

Good luck finding a supplier with REAL made in USA bearings.


Kevin
 
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11b30b4

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Nutjob, yep, bearings, specifically American made bearings are harder to locate. If I can not find American, I prefer Japanese then Korean. China is last on my list.

So, for the O-rings.
The rubber washer that sits under the spindle collar on the spindle.
1" OD x 5/8" ID x 3/16" thick. It is recommended you get Buna-N Rubber.
A box of 50 from Mcmaster is $7.61 Part # 9452K385

The Quill Gasket
1 7/8" OD x 1 5/8" ID x 1/8" thick. Again it is recommended you get Buna-N Rubber.
A box of 100 from Mcmaster is $15.16 Part # 9452K61
 
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11b30b4

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All, I have made better (user friendly) Craftsman Drill Press 1933-1984 spreadsheet. It is a sharable google doc. Use this link:


Should anyone find any issues with the information, please let me know so I can make corrections.
 
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11b30b4

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All, I have started a YouTube Channel that will highlight the Craftsman Drill Press, anyone interested click HERE
 
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Hoorn

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All, I have started a YouTube Channel that will highlight the Craftsman Drill Press, anyone interested click HERE
Hey "Tom Cruise", subscriber #3, that's me. Nice intro video 11b, looking forward to follow ups. Appreciate the time and effort you put into, and are going to put into, helpful YouTube videos. I learned how to lay wood shake roofing and how to flash dormer windows for my shed from men like you, who took the time to film the process and put it out there on YouTube.
 
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11b30b4

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Hoorn thanks brother. I had no idea how much was involved to make something like my 13 minute video. About 4 hours of shooting video but a lot of that was learning the camera and 2 days of voice over and learning the editor software. Needless to say, I will not be cranking these things out weekly but I hope to get the good stuff out soon.
 
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11b30b4

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Well Smokes you are the second person looking for the O-rings. I have no idea how Frank was able to ship them for so cheap. I sent a set to a member and it cost me just over $9.00.

I will post a thread in the classifieds section.
 

Smokeshow69

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Well Smokes you are the second person looking for the O-rings. I have no idea how Frank was able to ship them for so cheap. I sent a set to a member and it cost me just over $9.00.

I will post a thread in the classifieds section.
Email sent. I bought 3 sets of o-rings from Franklee. I would be willing to buy some from you :)
 
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EROZFISH

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Hey guys, a few questions as I’m in the process of redoing my 150. On the left side of the headstock (viewed from the front), there are 2 holes-1/4” & 1/2”. 11b, I see you have the one hole on one of yours with a toggle switch, which I assume is for power to the motor? I’m just wondering if these are original, or someone drilled them. I would like to use the one for the power on toggle switch, and if I can find the right switch, one to power both the motor and possibly a light that I would like to fabricate.
Last question: the motor was running just fine, but I disassembled it to paint it and as I was disconnecting the wiring I noticed that it was wired up for 230 even though it was just plugged into a 110 outlet. Like I said, without checking the RPMs it was running just fine but I am going to wire it back to the way it is supposed to be on the nameplate. Anyone have any idea why it would’ve been wired the other way?

Thank you all for the the help and extreme knowledge you have given me along this process!747A8FE0-0C96-4C56-BB1E-4A8B2B103A08.jpeg04C0F143-FBB3-41CE-B2EC-91DC2A1AD8C7.jpeg
 

Hoorn

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@EROZFISH at no time during the Craftsman 100 150 drill press run did Sears offer a head with factory drilled holes for a switch, nor was a switch accessory offered for that style of mounting. I would estimate that at least 1/3 of the 100 / 150s that I have grabbed have had some sort of receptacle box mounted to the side or a toggle switch mounted on the inside. Guys just wanted the convenience of turning the machine on and off from the front instead of reaching for the switch on the motor in the back.

My guess is it was wired for high voltage because a previous owner was running it off a high voltage receptacle.
 

Zeus36

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Ventura, California
Hey guys, a few questions as I’m in the process of redoing my 150. On the left side of the headstock (viewed from the front), there are 2 holes-1/4” & 1/2”. 11b, I see you have the one hole on one of yours with a toggle switch, which I assume is for power to the motor? I’m just wondering if these are original, or someone drilled them. I would like to use the one for the power on toggle switch, and if I can find the right switch, one to power both the motor and possibly a light that I would like to fabricate.
Last question: the motor was running just fine, but I disassembled it to paint it and as I was disconnecting the wiring I noticed that it was wired up for 230 even though it was just plugged into a 110 outlet. Like I said, without checking the RPMs it was running just fine but I am going to wire it back to the way it is supposed to be on the nameplate. Anyone have any idea why it would’ve been wired the other way?

Thank you all for the the help and extreme knowledge you have given me along this process!

I would not bother with finding a switch and wiring it in or drilling holes. I put in a foot switch and use a magnetic mounted LED task lamp. A foot switch is convenient, safer, relocatable, and you don't have to tie up one hand reaching for the switch.
 

EROZFISH

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Hoorn, I'm not sure on the wiring of the motor. When I picked up the DP from the previous owner, I plugged it up to a 110 outlet to make sure it ran. Prior to disconnecting the wires from the motor, I had plugged it up to a regular outlet, and it ran fine. I just noticed as I was disconnecting them, that it was wired for high voltage. I'm curious how that would affect the RPMs, because it still runs on 110, even wired for high voltage.
 
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