Wiring Air Compressor

[HaroRider]

Hey all, I was wondering of anyone was familiar with wiring this air compressor. I took pictures of the wiring, its a Saylor Beall single phase 5 HP 220V compressor.

It has two black, a green, a red and a white coming from the motor side.
Going to the pressure switch is a white and black.

I really have no idea how this should be wired, and everything was disconnected before I purchased it.


Any and all info would be greatly helpful.

Thanks, Thomas

 

[Balvar24]

Wiring diagram on the motor? Pressure switch should pull in the starter. One hot and neutral most likely required for that.

 

[The Cobbler]

no neutral needed unless there's 120 volt switching, the motor won't use a neutral .

 

[The Cobbler]

moved to electrical section as more appropriate

 

[HaroRider]

Thanks Cobbler. I'll try to get a pic of the wiring diagram on the motor. (Not sure if there is one) Its a Dayton 6K854BA.

 

[The Cobbler]

not sure why you have so many wires comming out of the motor. I wonder if they had a capacitor in the contactor box instead of in the motor? with the tabs on those wires it has me wondering ...

 

[whateg01]

no neutral needed unless there's 120 volt switching, the motor won't use a neutral .

Looks like that part number uses a 120v coil. I'd probably swap it with one that uses a 220 coil

 

[The Cobbler]

but it looks like only 2 hots ( blacks) entering the box. or is that going to the motor?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

no neutral needed unless there's 120 volt switching, the motor won't use a neutral .

the coil on that contactor is rated for 120v not 240v

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Looks like that part number uses a 120v coil. I'd probably swap it with one that uses a 220 coil

DP/definite purpose, contactors sometimes dont have field swappable components...

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Hey all, I was wondering of anyone was familiar with wiring this air compressor. I took pictures of the wiring, its a Saylor Beall single phase 5 HP 220V compressor.

It has two black, a green, a red and a white coming from the motor side.
Going to the pressure switch is a white and black.

I really have no idea how this should be wired, and everything was disconnected before I purchased it.


Any and all info would be greatly helpful.

Thanks, Thomas

Can you open the motor junction box and take a picture?

theres too many wires coming from the motor

you also need to check the overload heater to make sure its sized correctly

 

[PCustoms]

Looks to me like the larger cable is not going to the motor.....

 

[pattenp]

Something seems off. I see small flex that goes to pressure switch then another small flex going behind box which looks like it's heading to the motor. So exacty where does the large flex (off picture) come from? I know the OP said coming from motor side but wanted to make sure.

 

[HaroRider]

Hmmm, I hope I didn't make a mistake. Let me check today to be 100% sure all those wires come from the actual motor. Thanks for the help thus far.

 

[Norcal]

DP/definite purpose, contactors sometimes dont have field swappable components...

DP contactors are a throwaway item, no replacement parts, limited accessories, some say the "DP" stands for don't purchase, they are used where cheap is the way, & just has to last past the warranty expiration.

 

[whateg01]

DP/definite purpose, contactors sometimes dont have field swappable components...

I meant swap the contactor

 

[HaroRider]

Ok guys, Im sorry that goes to the whip (Power side in) Not the motor

 

[HaroRider]

Pictures

 

[HaroRider]

Schematics

 

[wyliesdiesels]

wow so they ran 3 blacks, 1 red, 1 neutral in the power whip? way overkill for a single phase motor.

 

[HaroRider]

Yes, I know this compressor was in series with another compresor at one point. Im so lost on how to connect it. Or even if the existing connections are correct.

 

[whateg01]

Yes, I know this compressor was in series with another compresor at one point. Im so lost on how to connect it. Or even if the existing connections are correct.

How it was collected before is irrelevant aside from finding the correct wires to connect now. I would just rip out all the existing wires and wire it correctly.

 

[HaroRider]

Gotcha, so I technically only need a red, a black, and a green? The rest can be pulled through and removed?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Gotcha, so I technically only need a red, a black, and a green? The rest can be pulled through and removed?

That depends on how you end up wiring your control circuit. The contactor you have uses a 120 V coil so you will either need to replace that with a 240 V controlled contactor or you’ll need a neutral ran into the contactor box from your power whip

But other than that you only need 2 ungrounded conductors and ground

 

[whateg01]

I would add a switch somewhere, probably on the coil line so I could manually shut it off when I didn't want to run.

 

[HaroRider]

I would add a switch somewhere, probably on the coil line so I could manually shut it off when I didn't want to run.itsny you mention this. I really want a light switch near the rest of my light switches.

I would add a switch somewhere, probably on the coil line so I could manually shut it off when I didn't want to run.

Its funny that you mention this. I really want to have a light switch to turn off the compressor. The reason for this would be because I know I will forget to turn the compressor off. However if the switch is near the light switch I won't forget to turn it off.

 

[whateg01]

I started to put together a magnetic switch for my compressor that has a timer built in. That way, I hit the button and it's active for, say, an hour, then after that it won't kick on until I press the button again. I would add an override so if I was going to be painting all day, I wouldn't have to keep resetting it.

 

[HaroRider]

That seems like a bit much for my needs. Heck I cant even wire this thing normally lol

 

[alfredeneuman]

I would add a switch somewhere, probably on the coil line so I could manually shut it off when I didn't want to run.

Unless you have leaks in your air system there is no need for a switch.

 

[whateg01]

Unless you have leaks in your air system there is no need for a switch.

You never have leaks until you do. And then you have a leak.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would prefer a switch regardless.

 

[whateg01]

Unless you have leaks in your air system there is no need for a switch.

By that logic, OP doesn't need breakers either. None of us do, because unless we have an electrical fault nothing ever draws more current than it's rated for, right?

 

[HaroRider]

I definitely want the switch. I dont want the unit to turn on overnight. Perhaps from a cold outside temperature pressure drop or small air leak.

Bump, for help with wiring.

 

[whateg01]

are you going to reuse the existing contactor? If not, I believe it will make wiring easier. I'm not sure what wire colors are going where. I tried to follow them in the pics, but it was confusing, so I would suggest starting fresh there. There are parts of the starter that I can't see, so it's hard to tell how it is wired or should be wired, relative to the diagram.

 

[HaroRider]

I plan on using the existing contactor. Isnt this contactor needed for this size of a motor?

- I have a white and black going to the pressure switch. These connect to the whip with all the wires (Power Side)

- I have two blacks going to the motor itself. These connect to the contactor itself (Previously connected) I attached a pic of where these go to this post.

- I then have, three blacks, two whites a red and a green at the whip. (These are where the pressurecswitch is going)

I hope that makes sense.

Thanks for the help!

 

[wyliesdiesels]

you can use that contactor but the problem is you will need to pull a neutral from your electrical panel because the coil is 120v not 240v. or you would need a control transformer...

having a 120v rated coil just complicates things...

 

[Sumboodie]

You never have leaks until you do. And then you have a leak.

My compressor wasn't turned off aside from a few times I was out of town for a few weeks and happened to thing of it. 12 years without any problem.

 

[whateg01]

My compressor wasn't turned off aside from a few times I was out of town for a few weeks and happened to thing of it. 12 years without any problem.

Ok. I didn't have a wreck for 10 years. And then somebody pulled out in front of me.

 

[HaroRider]

you can use that contactor but the problem is you will need to pull a neutral from your electrical panel because the coil is 120v not 240v. or you would need a control transformer...

having a 120v rated coil just complicates things...

Pulling a neutral to the unit will not be an issue. Its just a matter of wiring it.

 

[Sumboodie]

Ok. I didn't have a wreck for 10 years. And then somebody pulled out in front of me.

So you shouldn't drive because the very slim chance it might happen? Same thought with the compressor.