Valve cover baffle questions

[Garagebound1]

I'm in process of adding a PCV valve to my Cobra valve covers, I had a friend mill slots off and install the grommet and valve. Now I'm trying to fabricate a baffle. There were already posts on underside so I've tapped them and fabbed a plate but I'm wondering what to use to retain the fasteners. I figured red Loctite but knowing that the heads get hot will that not hold? I've used heat to release fasteners so wasn't sure if that was the solution. I really don't want bolts falling into my new roller rockers.

 

[uscarry45]

Red loctite says it’s good to 260 degree Fahrenheit. Which is probably good enough. However you could try one of the following

double nut and loctite
drill hole for cotter pin behind nut
spot weld- this would be my choice
purposely use wrong thread pitch to permanently gall the threads
I am sure their are some high temp adhesives for like in an over that may work

 

[kerrynzl]

I'm in process of adding a PCV valve to my Cobra valve covers, I had a friend mill slots off and install the grommet and valve. Now I'm trying to fabricate a baffle. There were already posts on underside so I've tapped them and fabbed a plate but I'm wondering what to use to retain the fasteners. I figured red Loctite but knowing that the heads get hot will that not hold? I've used heat to release fasteners so wasn't sure if that was the solution. I really don't want bolts falling into my new roller rockers.

Use tiny Allen head cap screws and drill them for safety wire .
Otherwise Just use a baffled grommet. [below]

Amazon.com: VALVE COVER, GROMMET, PCV WITH BAFFLE : Automotive

Buy VALVE COVER, GROMMET, PCV WITH BAFFLE: PCV Valve & Breather Grommets - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Desertskyy]

Red loctite says it’s good to 260 degree Fahrenheit. Which is probably good enough. However you could try one of the following

double nut and loctite
drill hole for cotter pin behind nut
spot weld- this would be my choice
purposely use wrong thread pitch to permanently gall the threads
I am sure their are some high temp adhesives for like in an over that may work

Red 263 is good to 360 degrees I don't think 263 is real popular though

Application Temperature

-65.0 - 360.0 °F (-55.0 - 180.0 °C )

Hope this helps and good luck

 

[Kenstone1]

I have deformed stud/bolt threads where the nut will end up.
For 1/4x20 or smaller I just pinch the threads with dykes or wire cutters to deform 2 threads on opposite sides.

Bigger stuff I use a chisel, with the bolt on something hard, I put the chisel point between 2 threads and wack it with a hammer, deforming the threads.
You will feel resistance (nut will turn harder) when tightening the nut over those deformities.

That, or if the nut goes on past the end of the bolt, tighten it, then hit those exposed threads, right at the nut, with an automatic center punch or center punch in a few spots.
That nut may get loose but won't get past those *****-punched deformed threads.
jmo,
.

 

[Monza Harry]

Silicone (higher temp stuff here I would think) has been used as a thread locker, but this application is screaming safety wire. Should be easy to find details on youtube, twist Pliers used to be really hard to find, [Speedway Motors and the like] however Princess Auto and Horror Fraught have even carried them, now with Amazon should be a piece of cake! Harry

Google Search

P.S. Stage 8 is also an option, but I have personally had a failure [single cylinder near 8000 RPM, with crank issue]

 

[kd3pc]

A word of caution, the factory baffles are built and placed in a way that oil returning to the pan drips down on top of critical components in the valve train. Moving or removing them may not be the thing to do.

 

[txvwnut]

I use green loctite when I assemble solid rocker shafts for veedub engines.

 

[Jehannum]

It's going into an aluminum valve cover, so I'd probably just make a locking plate that goes between the stud, the nut and the baffle, that you can then bend the locking tab up against a flat of the bolt head after you put the 5 lb ft of torque on the fastener.

Less fuss than safety wire, more positive than loctite.

 

[Monza Harry]

It's going into an aluminum valve cover, so I'd probably just make a locking plate that goes between the stud, the nut and the baffle, that you can then bend the locking tab up against a flat of the bolt head after you put the 5 lb ft of torque on the fastener.

Less fuss than safety wire, more positive than loctite.

That is basically a shop built version of the "Stage8" fasteners that I added in my P.S. Usually a reliable fix. Harry

Stage 8

The World's Best Locking Fastener

www.stage8.com

 

[ntsqd]

Locking tabs radically pre-date Stage 8's arrival, they just changed things around a bit and started selling it as a new idea. Their implementation is new, the general idea dates back to the early days of the Industrial Revolution.

Install the studs, drill each pedestal thru it and the stud, install lock wire or a cotter pin. That'll hold the studs. The select from above your favorite method to retain the nuts.

OR! make the baffle(s) from aluminum, drill the holes for fasteners in the baffles, and then weld thru the hole to the cover.

 

[rooster59]

Need a new tool- spot welder

 

[ntsqd]

Need a new tool- spot welder

Winner! Never pass by a reason to buy a new tool.