Track Saw - yes/no? Brand?
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes. Amazingly useful tools.
I have the grizzly (rebranded, not sure what other names are still selling it) and a buddy has the wen.
I went cheap not being sure I would use it, but now it's a tool that would get replaced right away if it failed. Probably makita corded
I have the grizzly (rebranded, not sure what other names are still selling it) and a buddy has the wen.
I went cheap not being sure I would use it, but now it's a tool that would get replaced right away if it failed. Probably makita corded
dnschmidt
Well-known member
I have the Makita battery system (two 18v batteries in series) and it's really nice.
I think that how you use the tool determines corded or battery. I use mine indoors so I always have a vacuum connected up, and since I’m dragging a hose along all the time anyway a cord is no big deal. So I have no batteries to charge or wear out. If I used it a lot outdoors on a job site I’d think differently.
Most reviews I’ve seen put the festool at the top but you pay for it and YMMV. The Makita looks good but some reviews have noted issues with a warped base. I can’t comment on the Grizzly or Bosch.
I decided to splurge on this tool and I have the corded Festool. I am very happy with how it works for me. I use mine to break down 4x8 sheets of plywood. Initially I cut them a bit large and trimmed them on my unisaw. But the cuts are so clean and accurate now I use it for the final cuts.
Most reviews I’ve seen put the festool at the top but you pay for it and YMMV. The Makita looks good but some reviews have noted issues with a warped base. I can’t comment on the Grizzly or Bosch.
I decided to splurge on this tool and I have the corded Festool. I am very happy with how it works for me. I use mine to break down 4x8 sheets of plywood. Initially I cut them a bit large and trimmed them on my unisaw. But the cuts are so clean and accurate now I use it for the final cuts.
I have a Fe$$$$tool. Great for breaking down sheet goods and awesome dust collection. I picked Festool over others for the better dust collection.
I don't get the battery powered concept - I always have it attached to a vac so why no cord? Granted, I bought it before cordless track saws were available. I do have a Milwaukee M18 battery saw but only use it outside the shop for "rough" cuts.
I don't get the battery powered concept - I always have it attached to a vac so why no cord? Granted, I bought it before cordless track saws were available. I do have a Milwaukee M18 battery saw but only use it outside the shop for "rough" cuts.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Cordless vacs are now a thing too. Plus not everyone uses them with a vac I don't generally bother when I am outdoors
FTWingRiders
Well-known member
I have the Makita 18v track saw and vac.. together they make cutting up sheet goods an absolute treat. Yeah I’ve got a big table saw, but when I can cut them down as I take them out of the truck instead of carrying the full sheet inside it’s a no brainer. 
Track saw is a Good investment and very useful, definitely recommend getting one.
But can't recommend what I went with unless you are looking for low budget option. I have an Evolution brand that also does metal too, real steel... not just tin or aluminum. Which is one of the reasons I bought it aside from getting a good deal on it. Track that come with is several short pieces and not worth the metal it took to make them. I also went with a 2pc Wen CT9502 track that can do 8ft. Also this saw uses Odd 20mm arbor blades, not something any hardware store carries, Evolution branded blades are kinda pricey but not too bad, however there are a Few off-brand options on the cheap on Amazon. But wood only blades are hard to find in this arbor size. Blade guard on the Evolution is not fully enclosed and I do use dust collection, it still leaves a mess.
Anyway, I am at $200 invested into my setup.
Another cheap saw I was considering is the Wen @ $100 + track separate.
While I have used my saw pretty much, I am not a contractor or carpenter... I can't justify the cost of the high end track saw.
I also went with the Wen track clamp set, another $30 to my total
But can't recommend what I went with unless you are looking for low budget option. I have an Evolution brand that also does metal too, real steel... not just tin or aluminum. Which is one of the reasons I bought it aside from getting a good deal on it. Track that come with is several short pieces and not worth the metal it took to make them. I also went with a 2pc Wen CT9502 track that can do 8ft. Also this saw uses Odd 20mm arbor blades, not something any hardware store carries, Evolution branded blades are kinda pricey but not too bad, however there are a Few off-brand options on the cheap on Amazon. But wood only blades are hard to find in this arbor size. Blade guard on the Evolution is not fully enclosed and I do use dust collection, it still leaves a mess.
Anyway, I am at $200 invested into my setup.
Another cheap saw I was considering is the Wen @ $100 + track separate.
While I have used my saw pretty much, I am not a contractor or carpenter... I can't justify the cost of the high end track saw.
I also went with the Wen track clamp set, another $30 to my total
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alinc100
Well-known member
I've used the Festool corded and cordless, along with a corded Dewalt. The Festool wins hands down. I can see the benefits of cordless, but as others have said if you are using a vacuum it might not make a difference. The Festool is light years ahead of the Dewalt I used, but it could just have been poor maintenance/abuse. I will note I did not pay for either one,nor do I own either one,I do know Festool quality comes with a hefty pricetag.
Bessy
Well-known member
@glennm depending on how much you're planning to spend, and how often you plan to use it, I went cheap and bought the 6-1/2" Benchmark corded track saw from Home Hardware. I've been very impressed so far. It's a $250 kit but I got it on sale for $200 with four sections of 27" track, two (junk) clamps, track bag and saw bag.
Upgrade the track clamps (I grabbed some made by WEN off of Amazon) and you'll still have money for a few sheets of plywood to actually use it on.
Cheers,
Upgrade the track clamps (I grabbed some made by WEN off of Amazon) and you'll still have money for a few sheets of plywood to actually use it on.
Cheers,
rlitman
Well-known member
I bought the Kreg this year. The riving knife sets it apart from anything else in its price range.
Unfortunately, the pivot is a bit wobbly, allowing the blade to wander as much as 1/8". I came up with my own fix, but the idea that they'd ship it this loose does still bother me.
Unfortunately, the pivot is a bit wobbly, allowing the blade to wander as much as 1/8". I came up with my own fix, but the idea that they'd ship it this loose does still bother me.
slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Great tool... Makita here. Corded which is a bit of a pita.. cord hangs on end of track a lot.
I bought the Wen clamps too
, bout $30... added those to my postjar944
Well-known member
Yes.
Makita or festool or mafell, or bosch...
Makita or festool or mafell, or bosch...
Grant Gunderson
Well-known member
I have the Festool as I already had there dust collector and was pretty invested in the system. The track saw maybe one of the best tool they make. For me, it has all but replaced the need for my cabinet saw. Now, I only drag the cabinet saw out for thin cuts, as that is the one weakness of the track saws. The track saw is actually way more accurate than the cabinet saw is.
Whatever one you get, be sure to get multiple tracks. I started with two 1400 tracks and would combine them for longer rips, but that got real old real quick. So I now own 3 tracks. BTW, Fastcap makes some really convenient holders for the tracks, so I mounted them on my garage door to keep them out of the way when not in use.
The 1400 is good for cross cuts and the 3000 is ideal for ripping full sheets of ply. My third track is a 2424 and. I pretty much only use it for drilling with the LR32 system. Its really dumb that festool does not make a 3000 track with the LR32 holes.... guess they planed that so you spend more $$$. The 2424 is too short to rip a full length sheet of ply.
Regardless of what brand you get, invest in a good set of parallel guides, they are a must. I started with a festool set, but hated them. I ended up buying two sets of the TSO brand ones, so I can leave one setup for cross cuts and another for rips. They are really nice, more accurate than the Festool offering and easier to use as they work with the TSO square.
Whatever one you get, be sure to get multiple tracks. I started with two 1400 tracks and would combine them for longer rips, but that got real old real quick. So I now own 3 tracks. BTW, Fastcap makes some really convenient holders for the tracks, so I mounted them on my garage door to keep them out of the way when not in use.
The 1400 is good for cross cuts and the 3000 is ideal for ripping full sheets of ply. My third track is a 2424 and. I pretty much only use it for drilling with the LR32 system. Its really dumb that festool does not make a 3000 track with the LR32 holes.... guess they planed that so you spend more $$$. The 2424 is too short to rip a full length sheet of ply.
Regardless of what brand you get, invest in a good set of parallel guides, they are a must. I started with a festool set, but hated them. I ended up buying two sets of the TSO brand ones, so I can leave one setup for cross cuts and another for rips. They are really nice, more accurate than the Festool offering and easier to use as they work with the TSO square.
TurnipTruck
Well-known member
I just trimmed out a house including an entire library with a Dewalt corded track saw and the 54” and 100” tracks. I will still keep a little table saw, but I will never again try to shove a whole sheet through one. All of those shelf edges are as-cut with only minor sanding necessary.
*I can’t load the panoramic shot of the completed library*
*I can’t load the panoramic shot of the completed library*
signcrafter
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I waited forever to pick up a track saw, I kept saying the next time I need to break down some sheets I would get one but when the time came I put it off because I could do the job with my home made guide and save the 700 or so bucks for the initial investment. Finally I had a stack of plywood I needed to break down for a project and pulled the trigger. Have been kicking myself ever since for not pulling the trigger earlier. I bought the corded makita and at first I just added another 55" track to it but it was a pain to have to use a straight edge everytime I wanted to line up the track and also had to take them apart and put together all the time. Finally got the long track and love it. I cut one of my 55" tracks down to a 35" and 20" just to have since I didn't need two of the 55" tracks anymore. Smaller tracks come in handy for smaller cuts. I bought mine before they had cordless options for track saws. About half the time I have it hooked to vacuum so a cord isn't a huge pain but it's still another thing to get caught on the track or wood. I just got an email from Milwaukee this week that they are coming out with a cordless track saw. IF it will work on my makita rails I will pick one up because I'm heavily invested in M18 batteries. If it won't fit the makita rails I probably won't get one because I don't want to spend a fortune on rails again just to be cordless. But to answer your question, if you are thinking about getting one, then get one.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Don't forget the Dewalt. It has a dual sided track which is nice if you want to have two different blades for hardwoods/vs ply.
Also the dewalt saw is a parallelogram instead of just pivoting like the others which is very nice.
The Dewalt saw can also operate on the makita/festool/mafel tracks if you so desire.
The bad part is that the aftermarket pieces like the TSO don't work with the dewalt.
Probably the best dust collection as well, if set right it gets 99.9 percent of the dust.
Also the dewalt saw is a parallelogram instead of just pivoting like the others which is very nice.
The Dewalt saw can also operate on the makita/festool/mafel tracks if you so desire.
The bad part is that the aftermarket pieces like the TSO don't work with the dewalt.
Probably the best dust collection as well, if set right it gets 99.9 percent of the dust.
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kbeefy
Well-known member
I went cheap with the Wen. Got it and a pair of powertec tracks and quick clamps.
Works awesome, wish I would have gotten it long ago. Recently used it to rip a bunch of laminate flooring to width, worked perfect.
Could definitely use better chip collection, makes a mess.
Works awesome, wish I would have gotten it long ago. Recently used it to rip a bunch of laminate flooring to width, worked perfect.
Could definitely use better chip collection, makes a mess.
Bessy
Well-known member
Not to sidetrack the thread, but @Firebrick43 can you elaborate on the parallelogram comment? What do you mean by this?
TIA
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Instead of just a pivot point in the back like all the other saws, it has 4 links with bearings in each end. It actually only has 3 pieces as 2 of the links are cast together in one piece. The saw handle/blade always stays level and moves in an arc never changing angle of attack. I don't care for the pivoting motion of the others and how your wrist moves. Its very similar to a 4 link suspension. Well except the double cast together only allows movement in the arc and no pivoting axially in the motor shaft axis.
Sort of a crappy pic but there is one of Number 77( the double link) and two of 70. The blade guard, like the other saws, does not move.
propmaker
Well-known member
I originally had a Corded Festool TS55, I ended up cooking the motor cutting 1 1/2" MDF. I blame it on "dirty" power. I work in the studios and everything is run through spider boxes etc. Festool repaired it for free, and I sold it and bought the TSC 55. The Cordless has more power than the corded since it is an updated motor. I have been using the cordless for 4-5 years now and love it. The Makita is a decent saw, I'm not a big fan of the Dewalt. Milwaukee will be releasing a cordless track saw in the next couple of months if your on that battery platform.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I have quite a few friends with or should I say had TS55's Most have all burned them up and have makitas now as they are the same track
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Another "I waited and waited and waited" guy who finally bought and cannot believe I ever waited. I use it all the time for all kinds of things in addition to breaking down sheets. I've cut 7' long shims, ripped window casings, and cut some very narrow trim pieces.
I went Bosch cordless.
I went Bosch cordless.
Also worthwhile are the quick clamps for the track. I have the DeWalt ones and they work on my Festool tracks.
As much as veneered, or even melamine, ply costs these days, I'd hate to ruin a cut from the track walking during the cut.
The Festool angle gauge thing was a waste of $, IMO. I don't think I've used it but once.
I also keep a spare plastic fence sacrificial sticky strip (what do you call that?). If it gets damaged, its hard to measure for the cut.
And add me to the "I waited too long" list.
As much as veneered, or even melamine, ply costs these days, I'd hate to ruin a cut from the track walking during the cut.
The Festool angle gauge thing was a waste of $, IMO. I don't think I've used it but once.
I also keep a spare plastic fence sacrificial sticky strip (what do you call that?). If it gets damaged, its hard to measure for the cut.
And add me to the "I waited too long" list.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My grizzly has a riving knife as well, but unfortunately it is discontinued
signcrafter
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I guess it all depends on what you are cutting. My table saw has a riving knife and it's a good feature. Me personally, I don't see a need for one on a track saw. I'm cutting almost all sheet goods, plywood, osb, faced ply, MDO, etc. These woods are very stable and with the track guiding the saw it's very hard to get the blade in a bind. Also if a blade were to bind and the saw come out of the wood the saw blade goes into it's shell automatically. So personally I don't see the need for a riving knife on a track saw. Now if I was cutting some unstable woods like slabs and other stuff that has a tendency to release tension as you cut it then a riving knife might be more important. But for breaking down stable sheet goods I would not put that feature at the top of my list. But everyone's situation is different.
Wow, lots of great advice here. I see that the Festool is highly rated and the corded model is on clearance right now. I also noticed that the Festool long track is very expensive. Makita, not so much. I like the sound of the Milwaukee, I do have a bit of an investment in their tools. Is there any info on it yet?
Well put. My TS55 has a riving blade, but I don’t see that as an advantage on sheet goods, which is all I use it for. My unisaw is still queen of the shop.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I also use mine mostly for sheet goods and stuff like cutting doors, so it's often not mounted on my saw. But I have used it to make rip cuts in dimensional lumber where precision was important and I can't take the work to my table saw.
The riving knife screwed me a couple times when I have tried to plunge into sheet goods
Nice to have, not critical, IMO
signcrafter
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Which saw do you have? The riving knife on the Festool is spring loaded (except on very old models) and retracts (gets pushed up) into the housing if there is no kerf for it to slip into, such as the start of a plunge cut.
Riving knife is good to have on the track saw when ripping solid wood.
Seth
Festool Owners Group Moderator
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Chumly
Well-known member
If Festool is an option, I don't see why not to go with them.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Is there a tracksaw without a riving knife? All the major ones do.
I use mine a lot to "cut out" boards out of rough hardwood lumber. I get logs milled with a woodmizer and air dry. Since they are just stabbed they are usually 24 plus inches across and have checks usually down the center. Most of the time defects, checks, and grain direction means that several boards can be marked out. Many times these are not straight with the board, may be 15 degrees or so off for max yield. . I lay my 55" track and cut to my chalk lines. That edge is now pretty much jointed. May have to take one pass just to square it up to the face after jointing/planing it but much easier than any other method.
I have had some wide wild cherry that would of had terrible waste if it wasn't for the track saw.
I use mine a lot to "cut out" boards out of rough hardwood lumber. I get logs milled with a woodmizer and air dry. Since they are just stabbed they are usually 24 plus inches across and have checks usually down the center. Most of the time defects, checks, and grain direction means that several boards can be marked out. Many times these are not straight with the board, may be 15 degrees or so off for max yield. . I lay my 55" track and cut to my chalk lines. That edge is now pretty much jointed. May have to take one pass just to square it up to the face after jointing/planing it but much easier than any other method.
I have had some wide wild cherry that would of had terrible waste if it wasn't for the track saw.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Grizzly. My whole setup cost as much as the 1900mm Festool track, so I'm OK with the trade off
This will be the main use for me. We have a bandsaw mill and plenty of live edge lumber. I’m getting tired of trying to cut straight edges on the table saw
rlitman
Well-known member
This Amazon reviewer summed it before I bought mine, so I knew what to look for:
If the link doesn't work, it's the 1 star review titled "How do you adapt to inaccurate cuts!?" with the video.
This is actually a problem common to most track saws to a degree, because of how they pivot. What I did was take off the blade and then the guard, and on the motor end housing casting, there are some spider ribs that face out. Onto one of these, I slid on a plastic wall anchor (the split type you poke into drywall to hold a screw). It's center cut held onto the rib, and the head section was exactly the right length to press against the metal opposite it (and slides well on that with a little grease), so that the blade stays forced into the most clockwise angle seen in that video. No more wobble. I wish I had a picture, but I can't find it now.
The Kreg riving knife is retractable too.
Most do not. Makita, Bosch, even some Mafell don't. Neither do the minor players like Wen or Grizzly.
Festool, some DeWalt, a few Mafell models and the Kreg do, but the DeWalt is fixed with the blade depth so it runs into the issue of being useless on plunge cuts. Festool and Kreg's pivot independently in tandem with the blade, so they can move out of the way on their own.