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Between 265 & 485 SQ/FT 14x20 Shop Build

Workspaces sized between 265 and 485 squarefeet.

BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Hi - after going through so many threads here to get ideas and with my wife’s urging to build a shop, here’s the start of my 14x20 shop. Goal is to get it watertight before we need to get going on the garden stuff…

This is my first ground up construction project, so go easy on me. I had wanted to get closer to the property line to go bigger, but the county requires 5’ setback, and our yard isn’t huge, hence the 14x20 footprint (ignore the 16x20 and the 2' setbacks on the second model below). I’ll have a patio door on the north side so I can be working in there and still be engaged with the kids playing in the yard, and an 8’ door on the west side. Still debating what kind of door to do. I really don’t want tracks that’ll take up headspace, and from what I can tell the roll up doors are garbage and are really pricey now. Might just go with a barn style door. I wouldn’t often use it anyways I think.

I’ve got 3” conduit up into the slab for future 100A sub panel. Something I still need to figure out is my main panel is in my basement - how the heck do I get individual conductors from the conduit through the rim joist to the main panel? I don’t know how I can protect them - I don’t think I can finagle a giant conduit from the rim joist to the panel if that makes sense.
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Broke ground back in October and got the foundation dug and forms and rebar ready before Dec. Pic below doesn’t show the chairs I put under the rebar before I poured.
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My youngest two thought the pumper was the coolest - with the greenhouse in the way I decided to get a pumper and it was totally worth it. This was their “small” one lol.
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A friend helped with the truck scheduling and finishing work and man was his help appreciated. He even had my 3 yo troweling edges.
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A new play surface
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Framing and cleaning helpers
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The west wall is up and I should have the north wall up later this week.

Finished the scissor trusses and my wife is very ready to have them out of the garage so she can park again! This was worth it to DIY also - quote for standard trusses was $1800. These were less than $500 to make even with the ten tubes of PL Premium. I was lucky and had picked up nearly all my lumber before the prices got so ridiculous.
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PileDriver

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2011
Messages
326
Location
Kitsap County, WA
Looks like a great start! Nice job making your own trusses.

What type of activities do you have planned for the shop? A 100amp service will support a lot of fun things.
 
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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Thanks! It'll mainly be used for woodworking and TIG welding projects. The main reason I'm going with 100A is I wanted to be able to use this energy monger in the shop as well as the garage. Also, my tablesaw, jointer, and planer draw pretty good current, and I want to eventually add dust collection, so I didn't want to worry about overloading anything.Dialarc HF-P Fnt.jpg.
 

jbrentd

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Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
1,039
Location
Northeast Oklahoma
Looks like it'll be a nice work shop. I'm in for progress updates.

Side note: How do you like that greenhouse? We have a similar one on the way that I hope to set up soon.
 
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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Thanks!

For the greenhouse, it's a Riverstone Monticello (8x12'). This is only the second year we've had it, but it was pretty well designed and decent material quality. The main thing I was concerned about was getting good polycarbonate, and it was name brand and should last a long time. The instructions could use some help in places and it took FOREVER to put together, but overall, it works great. We're in the teens at night and low 30s in the day right now and if the sun is out it'll get up to mid 80s right now. If I put in some black water tanks I could probably even out the temps more. In the summer I have to leave the door open even with the roof vents open all the way (which open/close automatically with wax cylinders - they're awesome) since it gets too hot. I put a shade in there which helps, but I need to also install a fan, thermostat, and intake vent and I think we'll get our temps pretty well controlled. Since it's made from extrusions, it lends itself well to modular shelving, etc. and that's on the list as well since right now we only have some simple plastic shelving for all her trays.
 

jbrentd

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 8, 2015
Messages
1,039
Location
Northeast Oklahoma
Thanks!

For the greenhouse, it's a Riverstone Monticello (8x12'). This is only the second year we've had it, but it was pretty well designed and decent material quality. The main thing I was concerned about was getting good polycarbonate, and it was name brand and should last a long time. The instructions could use some help in places and it took FOREVER to put together, but overall, it works great. We're in the teens at night and low 30s in the day right now and if the sun is out it'll get up to mid 80s right now. If I put in some black water tanks I could probably even out the temps more. In the summer I have to leave the door open even with the roof vents open all the way (which open/close automatically with wax cylinders - they're awesome) since it gets too hot. I put a shade in there which helps, but I need to also install a fan, thermostat, and intake vent and I think we'll get our temps pretty well controlled. Since it's made from extrusions, it lends itself well to modular shelving, etc. and that's on the list as well since right now we only have some simple plastic shelving for all her trays.
Thanks for the info! We have a lot to learn on all of that. My main concern right away is anchoring it down so it doesn't blow away when we get some storms.
 

captain14

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,048
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
Have you considered French Doors towards the yard so you can watch the kids? They will probably seal much better than barn doors.

Jason just installed them in his similiar sized build in the fall. He did find his in the clearance section at the big box store at a great price.

 
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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Have you considered French Doors towards the yard so you can watch the kids? They will probably seal much better than barn doors.

Jason just installed them in his similiar sized build in the fall. He did find his in the clearance section at the big box store at a great price.

Yes! That's the plan for the side with the two windows. I also liked what Jason was talking about doing with adding a small deck area for additional work area when weather's nice. For the gable wall with the 8' opening, I was planning on doing a roll up door but I think I've pivoted towards doing another set of double doors, with more of a barn-style look to them. I don't anticipate opening them often, and I'd like to have the advantage of better insulation compared to a roll up.
 
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BD55

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Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Luckily I paid attention to the weather the past couple days and was able to get the housewrap on and some plastic sheeting on the roof just in time for some much-needed snow.

ShopSnow.jpg
 
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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Thanks! We're at that stage where the kids are interested in everything we're doing and I'd like to be better about getting them involved in projects and see where their interests go.
 

captain14

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,048
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
My roof is 6/12 and I think that’s bad. I had foreland some shingle nail pops(twice) and reattached the ridge vent once. I figured out how to make it safer for me. I had to extend the ladder from my neighbors yard to do this side. The blocks and bricks hold the ladder from sliding on the concrete.
 

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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
That's a great idea - I may have to see if my neighbor would let me try that out from their yard to the other side of the roof.
 

captain14

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,048
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
I can’t wait to see what you do for the door!

How did you get up on the roof for the other side to complete the shingles?

Are you going to “learn” or practice on the backside first? I think the wall without any doors or windows will go up the fastest.
 
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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
I can’t wait to see what you do for the door!

How did you get up on the roof for the other side to complete the shingles?

Are you going to “learn” or practice on the backside first? I think the wall without any doors or windows will go up the fastest.
The doors will be about 36x80 each and have a 3/4 glass insert and solid panel on the bottom 1/4. I'm planning on doing drawbore mortises on the rails so it'll be rigid and stay together really well. I'll finish it with Epifanes marine varnish, so it should weather really well, especially since it'll be on the north side and really shouldn't have much UV exposure.

For the roof, I ended up just getting up there and staying cautious. I'm sure roofing guys would roll their eyes at how slow I worked. It was pretty killer on the calves, but if I stretched beforehand it wasn't too bad. Just had to do about 10 minutes at a time then come down for a rest.

If you're talking about the siding, I've gotten the south side done and the east side is almost done. I just have to figure out my flashing strategy for the north and west doors since my order of operations is not normal - I need to put siding up before getting the doors done - then I will get the siding up. It's just vinyl dutch lap siding, to match the house, so it's pretty straightforward.
 

captain14

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,048
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
The shops looking good! Have you decided on the type of doors yet?

Gutters and an overhang on the gable end door? If anything else, it will keep the weather off the door and extend its life. After I added a 6x6 “porch” over my garage service door, the longevity of the stain has been higher.

Likewise with my back door to the house. Each door faces north and get the wind driven rain.
 
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BD55

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Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Thanks! I think gutters will be definitely in the future. I already hate the splashback from drips, and though I'll be putting rock around the perimeter which should help, gutters would look nice and direct the water better and it would be nice to not have a shower when entering the shop when it's raining.
 

BSAschields

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Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Messages
450
Location
East Coast
Nice looking project.... Its quite fun (and cheaper) doing it yourself. And it teaches your kids to be self sufficient too... I did some small woodworking projects with my son when he was small. Now he is remodeling his own house ... My own confidence comes from a few years of high school shop class. There is nothing that seems too big for me to try to fix or build (so far)
 
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BD55

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Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Got most of the panel wired today - need to fix a couple things for correct bonding, but it went pretty well. Figuring this out as I go along, and thankful for great information online.
 
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BD55

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Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Made some progress on one of the french doors. Still need to cut the mortises for the right stile (learning as I go - should have cut the mortise before the tenons, but you can see on the top rail I haven't cut the tenon yet, so yes I'm learning from my mistakes, :LOL:).

I picked up the glass inserts and they're going to fit perfectly. I'll make a lattice from leftover wood to frame in the inserts and break up the empty space of the glass, which should look nicer than the plastic frames they come with.

I've also got all the hardware in, including SS ball bearing hinges. They should help with how heavy these doors will be - I'm guessing easily 100lbs each :oops:. Mahogany's pretty light from what I've normally encountered, but the stock I picked up was very dense. I'm not complaining on that though - the wood is beautiful and has some really nice grain; I've always loved mahogany, and with finish the grain should really pop and look amazing.

Door progress.jpg
 
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BD55

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Picked up this super cool rolling tool caddy off marketplace for $30 from a liquidator. Home built and well thought out, the builder obviously took great care in design, materials, and execution and did it with skill. Pegboard on both sides, and the small horizontal drawer opens from both sides. The hope is this will help me keep stuff nearby and handy during projects without cluttering the bench (which I currently always do and knock stuff off onto the floor).

It was worth $30 to me without the tools, but it included the pictured tools plus those on the other side and what you can't see in the larger side drawer (torque wrench, Hako soldering iron, transfer punch set, and laser level).

Most of the tools are not worth keeping and will go into my kids' toolboxes, but there are some nice Craftsman crow's feet and punches I'll hang onto.

Rolling Tool Cart.jpg
 

captain14

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Joined
Dec 19, 2012
Messages
7,048
Location
Near College Park Maryland 20740
Nice find. You need to post it in the wood cabinet thread along with the backstory.

 
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BD55

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Joined
Aug 15, 2011
Messages
218
Location
Northern Utah
Made some progress on the doors. Got the latticework done on the first door and got all the joinery done on the second door. Here's the dry fit to ensure square before drilling the drawbores.
doors.jpg
Here's the fitup to mark the tenon drawbores, which I've offset ~1/16". The tenons are so huge that the drawbores probably won't do anything, but they will look cool with the dowels (made some 7/16" dowels from scrap white oak so it should have a nice contrast). There will be some foam stripping around the panel to prevent rattles due to seasonal changes, and I'm hoping with glue up, good finish, and some clear silicone afterwards to keep water out of the joint.
door 2.jpg
Really simple mortise jig. Actually worked pretty great. Could easily make some micro adjustments to get the bit to the line. Harbor freight mortising bits - I used the 1/2" bit and it performed adequately. Can't complain - $14 for 3 bits! Plunged well and cleared chips ok. Just had to square the corners with a chisel and finish the mortise (routed from both sides and still had about 2" to chisel. Having the routed sides of the mortise to reference the chisel really helped but still lots of chiseling... I don't know why I made these tenons so huge :rolleyes:).
router 2.jpgrouter.jpg
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,573
Location
Richmond, VA
Looks great. I have a 16x16 going up (hopefully) this fall/winter for a pool shed/garden storage and (hopefully) a 12x20 for a workshop in a couple years. Gotta stay under the permit size limit!

How did you solve for your wiring question?
 
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