Moving and converting wood workshop into a garage

[rjkoop]

We just moved into a bungalow on an acre lot. The previous owner built a really nice 22'x26' (10' high ceilings) woodworking shop/shed at the back of the property heated and cooled using a heat pump. I'm not into woodworking... more into cars. So I'm looking at converting it into a garage and putting a lift in. So my thought is to build a concrete pad, move it over and remove the floor joists essentially lowering the shed on the concrete pad. How do-able is this?

You can see from the pictures that the floor level (because of the thickness of the floor joists) is like 12" from the current bottom of the shed. I'm just trying to understand how to remove the floor joists and lower the shed off the metal posts onto pipes/4x4 to allow me to move it over onto the concrete pad. Or maybe move it 1st and then remove the floor joists once on the concrete pad?

Or maybe it's not worth the effort and I should just sell the woodworking shop as is and use the proceeds to build a bigger garage.

Here's some pictures.



Probably convert this end into a garage door.


See how the bottom of the door is about 12" (the thickness of the floor joists) of the bottom of the shed.


I'd want to move it over into the grassy area here.


Underneath...







Richard

 

[Firebrick43]

How do you think your going to sell it? Are you selling the property? You normally cant just sell a non portable building. You give them aways as the moving cost will end up close to what the building is worth.

You are going to have a lot of issues converting that.

How weird. Is the tyvek on the bottom of the floor ply? Or did they insulate the floor joist, put ply and then tyvek on, then some furring strips on the very bottom?

 

[mepstein]

Seems like a good idea to me. Shop around for the right person to do the move. People move houses all the time. This should be easy with the proper planning.

 

[manwithtools]

How do you think your going to sell it? Are you selling the property? You normally cant just sell a non portable building. You give them aways as the moving cost will end up close to what the building is worth.

You are going to have a lot of issues converting that.

How weird. Is the tyvek on the bottom of the floor ply? Or did they insulate the floor joist, put ply and then tyvek on, then some furring strips on the very bottom?

Those are I-Joists, the Tyvek is installed between the webs (very neatly I might add).

 

[Firebrick43]

Those are I-Joists, the Tyvek is installed between the webs (very neatly I might add).

Wow, how did they get it drum tight like that.

 

[manwithtools]

My thoughts exactly, maybe installed from above before decking was fastened down. Major pain the **** to do no matter how it was done.

 

[manwithtools]

To the OP, I'd inquire with a building mover to see what it would cost to move it to a slab. As @Firebrick43 said, it's going to be a fair amount of work to convert that to a slab supported structure.

 

[Bucko]

What about just "adding on" to the existing structure but build the new area on a slab. It could be your area for the lift and if you keep the same roof line you will have nice tall ceilings for the lift.

 

[Wiz02]

Depending on your location, there may be property tax implications if you set the structure on a permanent foundation (slab). That may acount for the current construction. This may or may not be a consideration.

BTW, I am with you 100% on your intention to switch to an automotive shop!

 

[Wolley]

Once you get it on the new slab you could do one of the following: jack up the building on the inside. Cut holes in the floor to concrete and Jack up to the ceiling joists. Once supported you could take the bottom off the siding off and cut the entire floor system off below the bottom wall plate then remove and lower the building down, loosing the floor thickness height. Or cut the floor joist vetically flush with the inside of the wall and install blocking or a interior rim joist all the way around. Then lower the building and cut your door openings.

 

[CraigStu]

Ok now for another thought from out somewhere. Could you stand to leave it where it is? If so, build up the floor w/ a layer of 2x10s (?) or more plywood on top of the existing floor and more supports underneath. Do the garage door conversion as well as a ramp up to it. Yep additional supports will take some thinking and may be a bit of a pain but I think it will be a lot less than moving it and modifying it.

 

[rjkoop]

What about just "adding on" to the existing structure but build the new area on a slab. It could be your area for the lift and if you keep the same roof line you will have nice tall ceilings for the lift.

Not a bad idea.

 

[rjkoop]

Depending on your location, there may be property tax implications if you set the structure on a permanent foundation (slab). That may acount for the current construction. This may or may not be a consideration.

BTW, I am with you 100% on your intention to switch to an automotive shop!

Something to check out with the city before I start the work.

 

[rjkoop]

Once you get it on the new slab you could do one of the following: jack up the building on the inside. Cut holes in the floor to concrete and Jack up to the ceiling joists. Once supported you could take the bottom off the siding off and cut the entire floor system off below the bottom wall plate then remove and lower the building down, loosing the floor thickness height. Or cut the floor joist vetically flush with the inside of the wall and install blocking or a interior rim joist all the way around. Then lower the building and cut your door openings.

I like your 2nd idea best. Then you don't lose any height. I'm thinking...

1. Build slab.
2. Move structure onto new slab - one of 2 ways...
   1. Use professional movers - might be super expensive.
   2. Figure out how to drag it over using timber and pipes with my Tacoma.
      1. It's only like 30' away and already off the ground.
3. Open up floor (remove everything except the floor joists themselves).
4. Raise using roof trusses/joists as you mentioned (roof structure seems incredibly strong).
5. Attach 2x4 (or 2x6?) rim joist all the way around bottom perimeter.
6. Lower building onto concrete slab.
7. Attach rim joist to concrete.
8. Cut out floor joists.
9. Extend/lower existing side door and large end door 12" (since floor height is now gone).

I'm thinking that cutting the floor joists out near the end would maintain the structural integrity best until the building is lowered. Does this make sense?

Other option is to attach rim joists on concrete on slab before moving the building over. Then just lower directly onto the rim joist and no jacking up after the move would be required. Might be simpler.

Richard

 

[matt_i]

I would figure out how to add on to that building to get the space you want for working on cars. I don't see converting that one being easy nor cheap.

 

[Zeke]

I know what I would do but it may not be right for you. I'd place the new slab with stem walls at what ever height suits you. I'd put 2 steel beams under the shed and move it. Now the non door stem wall will need 2 openings tor the steel to be removed. Think of them as foundation vents. The end with the new drive in door will have room to drop the steel. It will actually need 4 beams to move: 2 under and 2 under those crosswise, wider than the foundation and on dollies.

Frankly, IDT a house mover would charge that much. I bet 4 hours and he's gone. Cash talks. Once in place you can cut out the floor and do what is necessary to secure the existing framing to new sill plates.

I have laugh a little here because you're gonna end up with an 8' tall man door, not that is a bad thing. You will get plenty of overhead clearance at the new drive in door.

You may end up removing the lower 2' or so of the dry wall to make repairs.

 

[rayra]

lol got to be another troll topic from a new user. Come to a forum full of people who wish they had a dedicated shop space and talk about removing it.

 

[ZRX61]

Just jack the damn thing up where it is, pour footings under the walls, lay a couple of courses of blocks, drop the shed onto them. Cut the floor out with a chainsaw & pour a slab. Done.

 

[TractorJeff]

My 2 Cents!
Its on the TAX Map already!
Leave it where it is!
Follow ZRX61 advice!
If it moves and THEY know you moved it to a permanent floor, then it will get Re-TAXED!
OR You may not be Zoned for a 2nd Permanent Structure on your Property!

Next Reply will be Naughty that you can't do this without PERMITS!
I see lots of **** become Permanent and Lots of People get away with it.
You paid for it, so enjoy it as You want!

 

[Zeke]

Just jack the damn thing up where it is, pour footings under the walls, lay a couple of courses of blocks, drop the shed onto them. Cut the floor out with a chainsaw & pour a slab. Done.

He could do that too with the steel. No dollies required. I got the idea that the OP actually wanted to relocate the shed as long as he was going to have to get it up on supports. So I stated my opinion. OF course leaving it there is better labor wise.

 

[Firebrick43]

You guys are talking about moving this building and no one is saying anything the need to remove the rim joist!. Not only would a rim joist set on the sill not be stable once the joist are removed, but how would you bolt it to the sill? At minimum you would have to remove siding and osb/ply a few feet up the wall and replace it with a piece 1.5 inches longer to nail into the sill.

The floor need to be mostly removed before lifting, A large 2x10 or 2x12 attached to the walls running the length, jacked up at those points, and the rim joist and anything attached to it removed. At that point it could be moved. Its likely going to be more than a 4 hour job. Also that is how your doors are going to be at the right height.

 

[yeldogt]

I wonder why the original owner went to the trouble of doing a raised building like that ? Does the property get water ?

I'm not seeing a lot of savings w/ that type of construction vs doing a slab. Other than maybe he could do all the work himself.

 

[lostmind]

Add on a carport with slab. Work outside , work inside.
No need to move or modify

 

[brownbagg]

not big enough to work on cars. make it into tool room

 

[mepstein]

I would think about leaving the building as is and building the garage you want from the ground up. Use the wood shop for storage like lawn equipment and other stuff so it doesn’t take up room in the garage.

 

[Evan92]

not big enough to work on cars. make it into tool room

You keep saying this in every thread you comment in but it’s not true. 22x26 is plenty big to work on a car.

 

[rjkoop]

So decided to keep the existing shed and use it as a 'kick *ss' storage shed. And next year going to build the garage of my dreams. I'll probably try to remove the heat pump heating/cooling pipes and the maybe some of the way overkill electrical panel and 120/220 wiring/plugs (it was a wood workshop and there are plugs everywhere). That stuff's not cheap and I'd try to use it in my garage instead.

Just have to get approval for the budget from my 'financial advisor'.