Looking for feedback on an arbor press stand design

[LeeG]

I have recently acquired a Greenerd #3 1/2. This is the 5 ton ratcheting arbor press shown in this post:

Show your new tool arrivals

I need to make a stand for it. This will sit outside under some sort of cover. Perhaps on the ground, and perhaps on a small wood planked deck that I may build to hold this and my 25 ton press. Here is the plans I have drawn up so far. I basically took the dimensions from the Dake stand for their 5 ton press. This is my design so far.



The frame of the stand is 2"x2"x1/4" steel angle. The base will be 2"x1"x3/16" C channel. The top frame will be welded as a unit. The base will also be welded. The legs between will be held with two 3/8" bolts each at top and one 3/8 bolt on the bottom.

The shelves are not structural and will only be there for storing press related stuff. The box on the front will be for catching any reamers or whatever that get pressed through so they don't hit the ground/floor. The press itself weighs about 480lbs and will be bolted to the top of the frame with the ram clearing the front.

I'd appreciate any feedback.

Lee

 

[brownbagg]

set it on the floor and use it on the floor

 

[ericlar80]

I would just weld the whole thing, personally. You are going to be putting a lot of weight up there and you don’t want it to rack.

The feet stick pretty far out the front and will be a tripping hazard. Any chance you can bolt it to the floor instead?

 

[LeeG]

Floor/Ground isn’t an option. I’ll be using it for broaching probably more than bearings.

I would just weld the whole thing, personally. You are going to be putting a lot of weight up there and you don’t want it to rack.

The feet stick pretty far out the front and will be a tripping hazard. Any chance you can bolt it to the floor instead?

Welding would be easier and faster. I am on the fence about that. I am not sure how much I need the legs to stick out in front. I’d like them shorter. It will be right next to my 25 ton press which sticks out about the same distance, however.

Lee

 

[whateg01]

My greenerd isn't a ratcheting model and it's not bolted to the floor. I have to push against it while pulling the lever to keep it from tipping forward.

 

[rsanter]

First off you need the front to be open like the slot that is in the front of the press.

Second, you need a padded catch shelf in the front so things that you can’t hold have a area to drop and not get damaged

Third, it’s best to have it bolted or anchored to the floor. If you cannot do that you can also make the stand where you can fill the tubes with sand&oil for ballast weight

 

[Plastikosmd]

I went through my pics. U can see my factory stand in background for my 3 1/2

Very stable (and an awesome press)

 

[nadogail]

Build it stiff and strong, or don't waste your time and material.

 

[Monza Harry]

Build it stiff and strong, or don't waste your time and material.

And heavy! You would be surprised at how much weight you can pull around with a lever like that press has. Using tube for construction would let you fill with steel or lead shot for greater ballast. Harry

 

[HenryAZ]

I screwed my stand to the wall studs.

 

[My Old Tools]

set it on the floor and use it on the floor

really bad idea. You can't press anything longer than a couple of inches if you do that. You couldn't press bearings on or off of a motor or shaft.

 

[My Old Tools]

I have recently acquired a Greenerd #3 1/2. This is the 5 ton ratcheting arbor press shown in this post:

Show your new tool arrivals

I need to make a stand for it. This will sit outside under some sort of cover. Perhaps on the ground, and perhaps on a small wood planked deck that I may build to hold this and my 25 ton press. Here is the plans I have drawn up so far. I basically took the dimensions from the Dake stand for their 5 ton press. This is my design so far.



The frame of the stand is 2"x2"x1/4" steel angle. The base will be 2"x1"x3/16" C channel. The top frame will be welded as a unit. The base will also be welded. The legs between will be held with two 3/8" bolts each at top and one 3/8 bolt on the bottom.

The shelves are not structural and will only be there for storing press related stuff. The box on the front will be for catching any reamers or whatever that get pressed through so they don't hit the ground/floor. The press itself weighs about 480lbs and will be bolted to the top of the frame with the ram clearing the front.

I'd appreciate any feedback.

Lee

The box in front will be in the way of any longer item you need to press. A box on the floor with a pad in it is all you need. Bolt it down if possible. I have a Greenerd 3 1/2 with a factory welded stand similar to your design. It will tip.

 

[Plastikosmd]

Tip side-side or front-back?

I have routinely hung on mine (200+lbs) over the 20+ yrs of ownership. It isn’t tippy or bolted. Longer shafts are supported separately if needed (ie taking the bend out of a driveshaft)

I have a larger Famco of similar sturdiness and stability

( the famco, I feel for- the PO would hang from it as someone used a sledge on top of the arbor during heavy broaching work. The top is well mushroomed from the abuse)

 

[gorilla]

I had a guy in the shop pressing bearings into aluminum housings one day. He decided that it was a nice day so he was going to do this job outside he unbolted the arbor press from the floor and took it outside. . Shortly afterward we heard the screams as he lay under the press. The stand did not have supports to the front to keep the work area clear it depended on floor anchors to keep it from tipping. All I'm saying is that it can happen.

 

[Plastikosmd]

^ no doubt it can

 

[matt_i]

I would use 2 x 2 x 11ga ERW box tube over angle iron, weld all joints to get the moment bearing capability. Both of those contribute to rigidity.

Next I would put the two (?) bolts into something solid like a piece of heavy flat bar spanning across the top, lets just say 3/8" x 4".

And lastly I would commit to bolting the back floor tube, even if using something like Hilti EZ-anchors (or bolt a piece of your 2 x 2 x 1/4" angle iron to the floor with wedges or epoxied studs, then hex bolt the tube frame to the angle iron. Then you can get rid of the trippy pegs in the front. Would also be nice to have some feet of some sort just to get your main frame up off the floor, even if its just 1/8".

 

[ez-duzit]

...The frame of the stand is 2"x2"x1/4" steel angle...

Angle is just about the worst possible choice of structural shape. Use square tube.

 

[My Old Tools]

Tip side-side or front-back?

I have routinely hung on mine (200+lbs) over the 20+ yrs of ownership. It isn’t tippy or bolted. Longer shafts are supported separately if needed (ie taking the bend out of a driveshaft)

I have a larger Famco of similar sturdiness and stability

( the famco, I feel for- the PO would hang from it as someone used a sledge on top of the arbor during heavy broaching work. The top is well mushroomed from the abuse)

front when you really lean on it