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I need an electrically operated air valve.

CraigStu

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I put my compressor on a twist the knob timer switch so I never have to worry about turning it off. But I do often forget to close the air valve and end up w/ 50# of pressure the next time I use it. My thought is find an electrically operated air valve. The compressor is plugged into a standard 20A-120V outlet which is controlled by the timer. So it would be easy to add in a normally closed valve plugged in to the other outlet. I am hoping there is a valve that I could surface mount on the wall w/ a 2ft pigtail power wire. Is there such a thing?
 
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rlitman

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Solenoid valve. Asco is one brand I have used in the past. Getting a big enough one (cheaply) may be an issue.
Solenoid valves have a large pressure drop across them (your tools will feel the power loss) and their snap action hammers downstream components. A full port ball valve is what you want. Then put an electronic ball valve lever actuator on it.
 

Citation

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Amazon has some 120v ball valves. Get one that auto closes when power is off. Then when your timer cuts power to the compressor the ball valve also loses power and closes.
 

dcg9381

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Solenoid valves have a large pressure drop across them (your tools will feel the power loss) and their snap action hammers downstream components. A full port ball valve is what you want. Then put an electronic ball valve lever actuator on it.
Can't you use an oversized solenoid?
 

Milton Shaw

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I got a motorized ball valve that operates on 120 volt. I then wired it into the lights, so now I turn the lights on and air comes on too. No leak down while off. Valve closes on power off. Most of the valves on Amazon are 9 -24 volt so watch and make sure the one you order is 120 so it doesn't require a transformer to operate unless you already have a 24 volt magnetic switch operating the compressor.
 

rlitman

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Amazon has some 120v ball valves. Get one that auto closes when power is off. Then when your timer cuts power to the compressor the ball valve also loses power and closes.
That's an option. For my purposes, I used a 24V ball valve for a few years before it jammed up on me. That was the cheapest way out of the gate, and to be fair I was using it on my compressor at 180 PSI, when the valve was only rated for 145 PSI (1.0 Mpa).

The problem with motorized ball valves is that most don't allow you to operate the valve manually, whereas the add-on devices can be bypassed, so when my valve died, I had no compressor until I replaced it. I don't know if external valve operators come in 120V, but that may not matter. If you setup a WiFi one with the app, they can work with their own timers.

Not a shopping recommendation, just where I'd start looking:

Can't you use an oversized solenoid?
It certainly should be sized correctly, but solenoid valves require pressure drop for the diaphragm to operate, so if you oversize it too much, it might not even work reliably. They're designed to have 2-5 PSI drop at 50% rated flow and may not operate at all below a 1 PSI drop, so you may be losing 15 PSI at your impact wrench to have a valve that can also run something that merely sips air (say an air brush).

The other issue with a solenoid valve is power use. They come in NO or NC, but if you're hypothetically operating the valve for 12 hours a day, both options will be powering the solenoid for 12 hours and that can add up to real electric costs. An NC valve opened when the lights are on should usually be cheaper, but ball valves only run the motor when they're moving, and draw nearly nothing otherwise.

This small 1/2" valve for example uses 20W (and a bigger valve would use more; my compressor has a 3/4" valve):
At 8 hours a day / 5 days a week, that's $9 a year in electricity for me, where a ball valve may only be a few cents.
 
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rayra

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weird. I just leave the drain valve cracked ever so slightly and it drains down - and blows the moisture out - in just an hour or so.
It doesn't bleed down fast enough to be an issue when I'm actively using air tools.
 
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CraigStu

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Lots of good info above so I thank you guys. I want a NC valve so it opens when I power the compressor w/ my timer switch. This is strictly a hobby so electricity use isn't a question. I often turn it on for 30-40 minutes and may not use it for 3-4 days so not a lot of consumption. But I will have to watch the operating amps. The compressor runs on 15A/120V but the instructions said it would be a good idea to have a 20A breaker so that is what I did. So I 'should' have a spare 5A to use.
 
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CraigStu

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I have this one on the way.
I will let you know how it works out.
 

PoorUB

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weird. I just leave the drain valve cracked ever so slightly and it drains down - and blows the moisture out - in just an hour or so.
It doesn't bleed down fast enough to be an issue when I'm actively using air tools.
I find it funny that most people are trying to seal up any leaks in their air systems, and you build one in!

I also have considered the motorized ball valve, but my quick disconnects are pretty good and my compressor might leak down enough to run in a couple week of not using it, which doesn't happen very often.
 

niget2002

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I have this one on the way.
I will let you know how it works out.
Nice. I've been thinking about putting something like that on the drain valve on the tank to keep the moisture out.

Their smaller brass valve looks like it might work well for me.
 
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CraigStu

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I wanted the brass version but out of stock so had to go w/ SS. I wasn't clear on the difference between the 2 wire and the 3 wire so started a chat w/ them. The two wire is normally closed and opens when it gets power. It also charges a capacitor in the minute or so after it opens and then draws just milliamps to maintain the capacitor. When power is removed the capacitor has enough power to close it. The 3 wire needs power fed to it for both opening and closing. So, if power goes out, the 2 wire will close but the 3 wire will just stay open. I never knew anything about these but I am finding it fascinating.
 

fitter30

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Any good valves - ball, gate or globe will have in the casting w o g water ,oil, gas
Better valves have a 600 lb rating ( industrial)
 

rlitman

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I wanted the brass version but out of stock so had to go w/ SS. I wasn't clear on the difference between the 2 wire and the 3 wire so started a chat w/ them. The two wire is normally closed and opens when it gets power. It also charges a capacitor in the minute or so after it opens and then draws just milliamps to maintain the capacitor. When power is removed the capacitor has enough power to close it. The 3 wire needs power fed to it for both opening and closing. So, if power goes out, the 2 wire will close but the 3 wire will just stay open. I never knew anything about these but I am finding it fascinating.
The 2-wire in a 120V setup is exactly what you need. I just had no idea they existed until you posted the link. Best of luck with it.

Any good valves - ball, gate or globe will have in the casting w o g water ,oil, gas
Better valves have a 600 lb rating ( industrial)
When my first compressor ball valve died, I assumed it was because the actuator was struggling with the pressure when opening (there's no pressure difference across the ball when closing), since I was using it above its rating. I replaced it with a 1000 WOG valve, under the assumption that the 180 PSI across the ball wouldn't noticeable, and it does seem to open more smoothly.
 
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PoorUB

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I replaced it with a 1000 WOG valve, under the assumption that the 180 PSI across the ball wouldn't noticeable, and it does seem to open more smoothly.
That is one thing to consider. Valve ratings will often have a valve that is rated for, say 200 PSI, but the differential pressure might be much less.
 

fitter30

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I wanted the brass version but out of stock so had to go w/ SS. I wasn't clear on the difference between the 2 wire and the 3 wire so started a chat w/ them. The two wire is normally closed and opens when it gets power. It also charges a capacitor in the minute or so after it opens and then draws just milliamps to maintain the capacitor. When power is removed the capacitor has enough power to close it. The 3 wire needs power fed to it for both opening and closing. So, if power goes out, the 2 wire will close but the 3 wire will just stay open. I never knew anything about these but I am finding it fascinating.
Taco has a zone valve for hot water heat that uses a capacitor for closing. There's a utube video that shows the valve makes a lot of electronic noise and paired with a ecobee 3 thermostat makes go crazy chattering other relays.
 

larry4406

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I will need to do this also at some point.

Do they make an electric soft close valve that can also be manually closed should the actuator fail?
 

allinon72

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I have this one on the way.
I will let you know how it works out.

I just installed a 3 way ball valve from this company to switch from soft to RO water on my pressure washer system. It does what it needs to do at a fraction of the price of an Asco or similar. I think many are overthinking what you are trying to do, I would order one of these and be done with it. With air, pressure drop is going to be insignificant unless you are running DAs all the time, or similar CFM hungry tools.

The only thing you will have to come up with is the wall mount you desire.
 
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CraigStu

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I will need to do this also at some point.

Do they make an electric soft close valve that can also be manually closed should the actuator fail?
I can't find it now but while I was looking around the web I found some that were closable manually.
 

Citation

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I will need to do this also at some point.

Do they make an electric soft close valve that can also be manually closed should the actuator fail?
The listing I found said versions could be manually closed. If you already have a mammal ball valve you could add this inline. It might be redundant but it shouldn't hurt.
 

mogandave

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I would be nice if the solenoid units simply had a handle or an exposed shaft where with appropriate drive/socket the state could be manually changed.

They are available, but are typically significantly more expensive.

With a bypass, when the valve fails you continue to work until it gets changed-out/repaief
 
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CraigStu

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It is in and works great. When I got this compressor the install notes said it runs on 15A but it is a good idea to use a 20A circuit. So at first I ran it on the existing outlet. Then I added a 20A outlet where the timer is. Then I got the timer idea so installed it and moved the outlet down a bit.
Compressor power 2.jpg
The valve comes w/ a 2 wire pigtail of really small wire. So I had an old extension cord that had been damaged and cut off 2 feet w/ the male end to be my power cord. Now both the compressor and valve power is controlled by the timer. It works just like I had hoped it would. When the timer shuts off, the compressor stops (if it had been running) and a few seconds later I hear a small buzz sound as the valve moves to closed position. I have had a compressor in the garage or basement for 30+ years and always ended up running to shut it off when I forgot to turn it off. No more bonzai runs for me.
 

rodder98

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I have this one on the way.
I will let you know how it works out.
This one is great because it closely, not slams shut.
 

Sumboodie

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Why do you need to turn the compressor off? Mine stayed on for 12 years in my shed. Still would be on if I hadn't moved.
 

rayra

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I just barely crack my drain valve open and leave it that way. Auto draining. It's not significant in use, or even noticeably noisy. Takes a good while to drain down after shutoff. I only power the compressor when I'm actively using it.
No special valve or expense required.
 

PoorUB

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Why do you need to turn the compressor off? Mine stayed on for 12 years in my shed. Still would be on if I hadn't moved.
Well, mine blew the diaphragm in the pressure switch and ran long enough that the compressor was smoking hot. I had been gone for two days so not idea how long it was running. After that I rigged mine to turn on and off with the shop lights.

I have also walked into shops that had air lines rupture over night. If the compressor had not been turned off it would have been running constantly. I have also seen blown up filter housings.
 
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