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Snap-On Restoration Thread #145606941651

TorRed

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2022
Messages
2
Hi, long time listener first time caller. I recently picked up this Snap-On cart for $200 on fb marketplace:

PXL_20220819_235220993-min.jpg

I bought it with the intent of restoring it and using it as my primary tool chest. Normally, I would've just cleaned it, polished it, and called it a day. However, whoever used it last was a "professional" welder. The two brackets on the top and the bottom are courtesy of them. They did that so that they could slide a bar down the front to lock the drawers. When they welded the brackets on they made zero effort to clean them afterwards and now they're rusted all the way around.
If it weren't for that the box would actually be in great shape. It's been sitting for at least 15 years in a garage somewhere, so the drawers are full of gunk and mouse droppings. Also, the bottom drawer is missing, but I don't mind that much since it works as a shelf anyways.

Anyway, made my account here because of all the threads I've read through regarding this topic. Y'all seem knowledgeable so I have a few questions I need help with!

1. I can't verify the year/make of this thing. Can anyone help identify it? From my research it looks like a KRA-396:
1661900468555.png
That would put it somewhere between 1953-1967. I saw the chart with the year symbols too but I don't know where to look for it on the box, and didn't find it when I checked. The box looks like the one in the photo, but the two badges on the front don't match the time frame (I think) and the handle looks different to the one pictured. Both the badges are labeled as 'Kenosha, Wisconsin' which got me excited, but after some research I think these were put on later. Not sure what happened to the original chrome badge that I think is supposed to be on here.
Should mention that it also has the optional KRA-303 attachment for an electrical junction box inside:

PXL_20220819_235320569-min.jpg

2. What's everyone's opinion on the best way to restore this thing? Currently my plan is to disassemble everything, cut off the extra stuff that the previous owner had welded on, strip the paint & rust with a silicon carbide disc, and use rustoleum toolbox paint & primer to re-paint it. Then polish up the hardware and the badges.
Does anyone have a better way to go about it? Given it's age, should I be worried about lead paint while I'm stripping it? I'd love to do things the right way and powder coat it once it's stripped, but I just bought a house so I don't have the time nor money needed to make that happen. Probably a bad decision to take this project on simultaneously but eh 🤷‍♂️

PXL_20220819_235241148-min.jpg



PXL_20220819_235402262-min.jpg

As you can see in these two pictures, the paint overall isn't bad on the outside. The bottom portion where the missing drawer used to be, the front where the paint's rubbed off from the lock bar, the welded bits, and inside some of the drawers is where the rust is the worst. Otherwise I would just polish this thing and call it good, but if I gotta touch up the front of the drawers I figured I might as well do the whole thing while I'm at it.

3. What's the easiest way to get the drawers out? I read online that filing down a hacksaw blade and jamming it in behind the slide is the way to go. I contacted Snap-On's customer support and asked them these questions, by the way. They didn't answer any of them, but they did offer to sell me a 2-pack of the drawer removal tools I'd need at $26 each. So I think the hacksaw blade is the better option lol.

Sorry for the text wall, but I'd love to hear what you guys think! I'll post some follow up once I get the project underway and once it's finished.
 
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Shelbylex

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Jan 20, 2018
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MA
This is a great find, Tor Red. If I had to take a guess, this is an older 40s version of the box based on emblems and handles. During this period there were not stamps on the boxes to give exact age. Look through the catalogues on this site:
 

Mr_B

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Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
Old hacksaw blade or steel wrapping bands etc can but cut/ground make tools pull drawers, lot of threads on that with photos .
Could be nice getaway project from new house when want a moment do and think about something different .

I would be inclined not repaint it at this stage, perhaps clean it up good, do handles and emblems nice , chop the lock bar loops and put some red primer on bare areas .
you could cut rubber mat for inside bottom and trim the front leading edge covering the weld, you could also ply wood the top and trim that edge or use a suitable vintage badge/sticker hide the welding sins .
It be a good practical box/work surface with bit of patina and could revisit it down the road for powder coating .
Spraying that good with cans eats fair bit of money for poor durability finish and you might not like end result for cost in effort as well as $
For 200 bucks it nice vintage usable roll around box/worktop .
Spend the extra time/money on a fitting refinish later in life when you know it true love and not going back on marketplace after seeing something young & tarty :)
Just some ideas for thought, only you know exact state looking at it for real and what time money and result you looking for at this time .
Look forward to seeing some updates when you got a plan & some action . have fun ...
 

Mr_B

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Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,378
Location
Reading
I think it's an early version of KR-396 (https://collectingsnapon.com/kr-series/ - has an example, but it's later version) On the bottom you are probably missing a cover rather than the drawer. Try to make close up pictures
yes, I would think this had a drop in cover that slid into slide rails at top of opening and had 2 slots at bottom for location tabs and a locking bar went from under top middle drawer down to the bottom cover ..
For sure someone have the details/images on this ...
 

FJ 432

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Joined
Aug 2, 2010
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3,736
Location
Littleton Colorado
You found a pretty rare box that will take a lot of work. This is one that I restored and I can only say it's ALOT of work!

 
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BarrelRoll

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Joined
Jan 10, 2006
Messages
415
Location
Alaska
Nice find. The "hack lock" is still very common on industrial boxes to keep people out. The last mine I was at the mine owned all our tools and every mobile mechanic box had a similar contraption welded on.
 
OP
T

TorRed

New member
Joined
Aug 24, 2022
Messages
2
I think it's an early version of KR-396 (https://collectingsnapon.com/kr-series/ - has an example, but it's later version) On the bottom you are probably missing a cover rather than the drawer. Try to make close up pictures

I'll take some closer pictures and inspect the metal once I have all of the dirt cleaned out of it. I need to take the drawers out first in order to get it done properly. After sitting for all that time the drawers have somehow become filled with leaves, rat turds, and what I assume to be nesting material from said rats. I'm considering using a powerwasher...

Old hacksaw blade or steel wrapping bands etc can but cut/ground make tools pull drawers, lot of threads on that with photos .
Could be nice getaway project from new house when want a moment do and think about something different .

I would be inclined not repaint it at this stage, perhaps clean it up good, do handles and emblems nice , chop the lock bar loops and put some red primer on bare areas .
you could cut rubber mat for inside bottom and trim the front leading edge covering the weld, you could also ply wood the top and trim that edge or use a suitable vintage badge/sticker hide the welding sins .
It be a good practical box/work surface with bit of patina and could revisit it down the road for powder coating .
Spraying that good with cans eats fair bit of money for poor durability finish and you might not like end result for cost in effort as well as $
For 200 bucks it nice vintage usable roll around box/worktop .
Spend the extra time/money on a fitting refinish later in life when you know it true love and not going back on marketplace after seeing something young & tarty :)
Just some ideas for thought, only you know exact state looking at it for real and what time money and result you looking for at this time .
Look forward to seeing some updates when you got a plan & some action . have fun ...

You're right, that is good advice! Mainly I went with this because I wanted something that I knew would be flexible and would last a long time. Harbor freight is quickly becoming my favorite store since moving, but even comparable HF boxes are twice as expensive, and surely won't last as long as this one has. Getting it powder coated would probably be around $500+ which I can't justify ATM, but I know that once I start using it I won't wanna unpack it lol. Not to mention that I plan on re-doing the wiring for the outlets, and cutting & refinishing a 1.5" butcher block to use as a tabletop. So the plan is to get the paint done first, that other stuff can wait for now.

Finally, this is how I made my 1973 396U a unique box paying homage to my love of Toyota FJ40's.IMG_0065.JPGIMG_0070 (2).JPGIMG_0074 (2).JPGIMG_0078 (2).JPG

Sweet! Love the 'glove' box lol.

I used these-
IMG_8509r.JPG
They are the metal bars from hanging file folders with 1 end cut off.
That's a good trick. I'll take one to the band saw at work and give this a try, thanks!
 

WagonHo!

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
1,015
Location
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Hi, long time listener first time caller. I recently picked up this Snap-On cart for $200 on fb marketplace:

PXL_20220819_235220993-min.jpg

I bought it with the intent of restoring it and using it as my primary tool chest. Normally, I would've just cleaned it, polished it, and called it a day. However, whoever used it last was a "professional" welder. The two brackets on the top and the bottom are courtesy of them. They did that so that they could slide a bar down the front to lock the drawers. When they welded the brackets on they made zero effort to clean them afterwards and now they're rusted all the way around.
If it weren't for that the box would actually be in great shape. It's been sitting for at least 15 years in a garage somewhere, so the drawers are full of gunk and mouse droppings. Also, the bottom drawer is missing, but I don't mind that much since it works as a shelf anyways.

Anyway, made my account here because of all the threads I've read through regarding this topic. Y'all seem knowledgeable so I have a few questions I need help with!

1. I can't verify the year/make of this thing. Can anyone help identify it? From my research it looks like a KRA-396:
1661900468555.png
That would put it somewhere between 1953-1967. I saw the chart with the year symbols too but I don't know where to look for it on the box, and didn't find it when I checked. The box looks like the one in the photo, but the two badges on the front don't match the time frame (I think) and the handle looks different to the one pictured. Both the badges are labeled as 'Kenosha, Wisconsin' which got me excited, but after some research I think these were put on later. Not sure what happened to the original chrome badge that I think is supposed to be on here.
Should mention that it also has the optional KRA-303 attachment for an electrical junction box inside:

PXL_20220819_235320569-min.jpg

2. What's everyone's opinion on the best way to restore this thing? Currently my plan is to disassemble everything, cut off the extra stuff that the previous owner had welded on, strip the paint & rust with a silicon carbide disc, and use rustoleum toolbox paint & primer to re-paint it. Then polish up the hardware and the badges.
Does anyone have a better way to go about it? Given it's age, should I be worried about lead paint while I'm stripping it? I'd love to do things the right way and powder coat it once it's stripped, but I just bought a house so I don't have the time nor money needed to make that happen. Probably a bad decision to take this project on simultaneously but eh 🤷‍♂️

PXL_20220819_235241148-min.jpg



PXL_20220819_235402262-min.jpg

As you can see in these two pictures, the paint overall isn't bad on the outside. The bottom portion where the missing drawer used to be, the front where the paint's rubbed off from the lock bar, the welded bits, and inside some of the drawers is where the rust is the worst. Otherwise I would just polish this thing and call it good, but if I gotta touch up the front of the drawers I figured I might as well do the whole thing while I'm at it.

3. What's the easiest way to get the drawers out? I read online that filing down a hacksaw blade and jamming it in behind the slide is the way to go. I contacted Snap-On's customer support and asked them these questions, by the way. They didn't answer any of them, but they did offer to sell me a 2-pack of the drawer removal tools I'd need at $26 each. So I think the hacksaw blade is the better option lol.

Sorry for the text wall, but I'd love to hear what you guys think! I'll post some follow up once I get the project underway and once it's finished.
what a beauty!
 

seber

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Messages
4,204
Location
Deep East Tx.
Hacksaw blades don't need any modification to work. Roughing the existing paint will turn it into a perfect primer. No need to remove it.
 

RTM

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Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,225
Location
SF Bay Area
That's a good trick. I'll take one to the band saw at work and give this a try, thanks!
Stick one end in the vise, bend it over 2-3 times, snap it off, hit the ends with a hammer to flatten it a hair, good to go.

If you cut it, file the ends just a hair to break the square edge to make it slide easier.
 
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