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Just bought a camelback drill press!

poppinjohnnies

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Dec 10, 2014
Messages
342
Location
Kansas
I just bought a 20” Barnes camelback drill project on an online auction. I’ve always wanted one of these, but the prices were beyond affordable. This baby needs a load of TLC, but I’m pretty excited to get her going. Picking it up this afternoon. Any tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated!
 

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jabberwoki

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puyallup wa usa
Yeah boy let the fun begin.
When your all done and you fire it up for the first time , prepare properly ie , comfortable chair tasty snacks and beverage of choice you will watch it work for days..
 

crguy

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SW Washington
Yeah boy let the fun begin.
When your all done and you fire it up for the first time , prepare properly ie , comfortable chair tasty snacks and beverage of choice you will watch it work for days..
There's no automatic downfeed or back gear on that one, so it'll have to be "hands on" to run it.
 

RivennHewn

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Time, money, and commitment can accomplish wonders.

Looks like a great project!

Take the “If it ain’t right, it ain’t done” approach 👍
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I have four camelback drill presses. My largest camelback is a 23-inch WF and John Barnes. The next size down is a 20-inch HOEFER. One of the smaller camelback drills is a Cannedy Auto 8-inch. I do not know the brand of the smallest unit. I bought the smallest drill press from an engraver.
These are an easy restore. Rather than messing around with a wire-wheel, I took the main parts to a local media blaster. The blaster used a combination of ground walnut shells and glass beads. MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT THE BABBIT BEARINGS FROM THE BLASTED ABRASIVE.
I made a similar motor house to what you have. The handle for my WF and J Barnes was missing so I made one. I also made a bevel gear guard.
I had to make a few missing bolts. The thread count on the half inch bolts are 12tpi, not 13 tpi like 2022. I had to mill the flats for the square drive ends and single point the threads for 12tpi.
I made a replacement drive shaft for one of the drives on the AF&JB. The shaft was a nonstandard size. One inch shaft had to be turned down to match original bevel gears.
A local retired electrician rewired wire the Barnes. I do not like what he did, so I will change out his work.
 

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isb cornbinder

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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
Here is a good addition for a drill press.
I buy these CRT arms on Craigslist. I get the arms for $20. I do not pay more.
The motor house was made from repurposed microwave cabinet panels.
I like the old style flat-belt drives. I have two CLIPPER belt lacing machines.
 

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crguy

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Jan 24, 2016
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Location
SW Washington
Here is a good addition for a drill press.
I buy these CRT arms on Craigslist. I get the arms for $20. I do not pay more.
The motor house was made from repurposed microwave cabinet panels.
I like the old style flat-belt drives. I have two CLIPPER belt lacing machines.
Why do you need a computer on that drill press?
 
OP
P

poppinjohnnies

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Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
342
Location
Kansas
There's no automatic downfeed or back gear on that one, so it'll have to be "hands on" to run it.
It’ll be good company for this brute
There's no automatic downfeed or back gear on that one, so it'll have to be "hands on" to run it.
It’ll be good company for this brute.
 

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poppinjohnnies

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Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
342
Location
Kansas
I have four camelback drill presses. My largest camelback is a 23-inch WF and John Barnes. The next size down is a 20-inch HOEFER. One of the smaller camelback drills is a Cannedy Auto 8-inch. I do not know the brand of the smallest unit. I bought the smallest drill press from an engraver.
These are an easy restore. Rather than messing around with a wire-wheel, I took the main parts to a local media blaster. The blaster used a combination of ground walnut shells and glass beads. MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT THE BABBIT BEARINGS FROM THE BLASTED ABRASIVE.
I made a similar motor house to what you have. The handle for my WF and J Barnes was missing so I made one. I also made a bevel gear guard.
I had to make a few missing bolts. The thread count on the half inch bolts are 12tpi, not 13 tpi like 2022. I had to mill the flats for the square drive ends and single point the threads for 12tpi.
I made a replacement drive shaft for one of the drives on the AF&JB. The shaft was a nonstandard size. One inch shaft had to be turned down to match original bevel gears.
A local retired electrician rewired wire the Barnes. I do not like what he did, so I will change out his work.
Beautiful!
 

isb cornbinder

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Joined
Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
Why do you need a computer on that drill press?
I had that laptop in the shop. Putting it on the tray was the safest place. I think the computer tray/arm you might be referring to is clamped to a hydraulic lift table. I will have a look, now. It is clamped to the table. I have 4 or so of those CRT arms left. I am always watching CL for more.
 
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poppinjohnnies

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Joined
Dec 10, 2014
Messages
342
Location
Kansas
I have four camelback drill presses. My largest camelback is a 23-inch WF and John Barnes. The next size down is a 20-inch HOEFER. One of the smaller camelback drills is a Cannedy Auto 8-inch. I do not know the brand of the smallest unit. I bought the smallest drill press from an engraver.
These are an easy restore. Rather than messing around with a wire-wheel, I took the main parts to a local media blaster. The blaster used a combination of ground walnut shells and glass beads. MAKE SURE YOU PROTECT THE BABBIT BEARINGS FROM THE BLASTED ABRASIVE.
I made a similar motor house to what you have. The handle for my WF and J Barnes was missing so I made one. I also made a bevel gear guard.
I had to make a few missing bolts. The thread count on the half inch bolts are 12tpi, not 13 tpi like 2022. I had to mill the flats for the square drive ends and single point the threads for 12tpi.
I made a replacement drive shaft for one of the drives on the AF&JB. The shaft was a nonstandard size. One inch shaft had to be turned down to match original bevel gears.
A local retired electrician rewired wire the Barnes. I do not like what he did, so I will change out his work.
Wow! great work! I'm hoping to get my Barnes looking nice like yours someday. I was able to get nearly everything freed up last night with a little Kroil. Well, everything except the motor. What motor are you powering your Barnes with? The one currently on mine is an Ajax 1.5hp thermally protected continuous duty motor - 1745 rpm. The wiring is a little over the top and a little shoddy at the same time, with a magnetic contactor and a 3 fuse disconnect box. I have a 1hp 120V motor I was planning to use just to fire this thing up, but I'd like to get this stuck motor going again if I can.
 
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poppinjohnnies

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342
Location
Kansas
Does anyone know what year my drill could have been made? It has a serial number stamped in it that reads 24509
 

isb cornbinder

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Nov 3, 2010
Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
Does anyone know what year my drill could have been made? It has a serial number stamped in it that reads 24509
I will have to guess, but I am fairly sure your BARNES was made in the 1880s but not later than 1900.
I did search the date for my Barnes 23", and I came up with 1883. My research was easy, the date is cast into the frame. I was able to weigh my Barnes and it pulled my crane scale to 522kg (1150#)
There was a time, long ago, when IHC insisted their major dealers had a BARNES drill press in their shop. I found this information in my research into WF & J Barnes and IHC.
Frederick W Crismon compiled a fantastic book called INTERNATIONAL TRUCKS. I have IHC trucks.
The history of Ford suggests Old Henry was a big fan of the Barnes company. Ford dealers were encouraged to buy this drill press.
 

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isb cornbinder

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Joined
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Messages
7,073
Location
Pacific South West, BC, Canada
Wow! great work! I'm hoping to get my Barnes looking nice like yours someday. I was able to get nearly everything freed up last night with a little Kroil. Well, everything except the motor. What motor are you powering your Barnes with? The one currently on mine is an Ajax 1.5hp thermally protected continuous duty motor - 1745 rpm. The wiring is a little over the top and a little shoddy at the same time, with a magnetic contactor and a 3 fuse disconnect box. I have a 1hp 120V motor I was planning to use just to fire this thing up, but I'd like to get this stuck motor going again if I can.
I had a very old and large GE 5hp motor, I wanted to use. I took it all apart and carefully cleaned all of the components. The armature had a quick soap and hot water wash in my ultrasonic unit. I spun the armature in my lathe to try and get all of the water out then laid the armature in the hot summer sun for a day. My son and I assembled the GE motor, installed it on the Barnes then powered it up. There was a loud bang and very bright flash followed by bits of molten copper dancing on the floor.
I went to https://www.armatureelectric.com/ and bought a new 5hp motor. The motor was made in North America. I would have preferred to use a BALDOR, but it was more than twice the money. Craigslist was not any help that week. The following week, CL had what I wanted. That is life.
When you by a motor get the 1725 rpm as you maximum speed. Even with that rpm, you will have to do something to reduce the rpm of the flat belt drive.
A good source for flat-belts and lacing is http://www.hitnmiss.com/
On the off-chance you might like to try hand lacing the belt/belts there are a few good videos on You Tube. This video may not be the best video.
I may have mentioned that I have two CLIPPER lacing machines. I will likely sell one of them.
 

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poppinjohnnies

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342
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Kansas
I built a roll around stand for the old camelback drill that I’m resurrecting. Repurposed square tubing and casters.
 

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