The VISES of Garage Journal

[RivennHewn]

Already posted this in my thread, but thought I might get more response here.

It’s a clean old bullet, with no date on the slide.

The odd thing is, the full length pin in the tail as opposed to two shorter pins.

Any thoughts?

 

[Shiftless]

I believe these were anniversary models but I don’t have any factual evidence to back this up. This time period could fit into a 70th or 75th anniversary. Your badge is in beautiful condition btw.

Thanks Smitty.
Does anybody else have supporting information about this special edition Prentiss?

 

[Andy FitzGibbon]

While we’re on the topic of Prentiss labelling, does anybody have any knowledge about when and why the company did these special brass and black enamel or Japanning badges? Was it an anniversary model? Or ???

Here is the one that I have.

(It didn’t look nearly this clean when I bought it from a C/L ad… drove about 45 min each way to pick it up) I neglected to take a “before” picture.

Some Reeds have a round brass badge as well.

 

[Shiftless]

Some Reeds have a round brass badge as well.

I’ve never seen one of those. Anybody have pics?

 

[Andy FitzGibbon]

I’ve never seen one of those. Anybody have pics?

Recently sold on eBay.

 

[PghJKB]

Recently sold on eBay.

Andy
The vise did not sell, the listing closed on 12 Sep without any bids.

JKB

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks for posting that pic, Andy and PghJKB.
To my old eyes, that doesn’t exactly look like a brass badge. I think I see casting texture on that circle where the black paint has chipped off. The raised lettering might look a bit golden in color but that might just be lighting. The raised lettering seems to have been highlighted by sanding or filing the tops of the lettering.

edit:
I just found the completed sale on eBay. The seller stated that a magnet did not stick, which of course if true, supports the brass emblem statement. Very interesting.

further edit:
I finished my coffee and went downstairs to the vise room, grabbed a magnet and tested the brass emblem on the Prentiss pictured in my earlier posting. The magnet stuck. I believe that a thin brass sheet placed over a heavy chunk of cast iron like a vise will not significantly block magnetic attraction. Further testing of that hypothesis is warranted.

 

[ChefRex]

I believe that a thin brass sheet placed over a heavy chunk of cast iron like a vise will not significantly block magnetic attraction.

This!

 

[zendriver]

Pick this up in at an estate auction no way was I going to carry it to the car (I didn’t have the handcart) so I drove down to get it.

Very solid built vise

 

[Trapps]

PSA:

wilton vise - tools - by owner - sale

Wilton 4in. Bench Vise made in USA.(has brass jaw inserts)

detroit.craigslist.org

EDIT: No relation to seller.

 

[ChefRex]

Pick this up in at an estate auction no way was I going to carry it to the car (I didn’t have the handcart) so I drove down to get it.

Very solid built vise

That looks crisp! Deserves a "You ****!"

 

[RivennHewn]

Talking about brass tags, my Rock Island had a nice one from Birtman Electric Company.

That is, until Mr. Larssen had to scratch his F’n name on it!

Thanks, buddy!

Like somebody might steal it

 

[va.grouseman]

That should buff right out.

 

[Shiftless]

I can’t remember the name of the GJ member who makes reproduction Birtman Electric tags.

 

[Andy FitzGibbon]

Andy
The vise did not sell, the listing closed on 12 Sep without any bids.

JKB

Thanks, I mis-spoke. Should have said recently listed on eBay.

 

[Andy FitzGibbon]

Thanks for posting that pic, Andy and PghJKB.
To my old eyes, that doesn’t exactly look like a brass badge. I think I see casting texture on that circle where the black paint has chipped off. The raised lettering might look a bit golden in color but that might just be lighting. The raised lettering seems to have been highlighted by sanding or filing the tops of the lettering.

edit:
I just found the completed sale on eBay. The seller stated that a magnet did not stick, which of course if true, supports the brass emblem statement. Very interesting.

further edit:
I finished my coffee and went downstairs to the vise room, grabbed a magnet and tested the brass emblem on the Prentiss pictured in my earlier posting. The magnet stuck. I believe that a thin brass sheet placed over a heavy chunk of cast iron like a vise will not significantly block magnetic attraction. Further testing of that hypothesis is warranted.

Interesting question. I've seen a couple other Reeds with the round tag, and they "looked" brass to me... but I also wasn't inspecting them that close. Youre right that the brass would have to be pretty thick to keep a magnet from sticking, although if the seller was using a crappy refrigerator magnet it wouldn't take all that much.

If they are brass, the Reed emblem could be cast as well.

 

[va.grouseman]

There's a piece of a Rock Island vise with a Birtman tag on eBay for not too much.---Covered in paint, so it would be like a lottery scratch-off.---You never know what's under there.---Just an Idea.

VINTAGE ROCK ISLAND VISE No. 571 BODY ONLY, ROCK ISLAND, ILLINOIS | eBay

This is the vise body only, no jaw or nut. The condition is very good but does have a little chip by where the jaw mounts, but I think it's under where the jaw would be.

www.ebay.com

 

[RTM]

"Any Car, Any Color, $29.95" Ring any bells for people. Everytime I see that price.

 

[ricleh]

"Any Car, Any Color, $29.95" Ring any bells for people. Everytime I see that price.

Earl Scheib

 

[Gary Indiana]

My recent Chicago CL acquisition: 4" Reed in a great shape. $40. I learned to be quick with this kind of rare bargains.

I cleaned it up a bit and painted 2 coats of flood penetrol to prevent rusting.

 

[Gary Indiana]

And this is another $40 vise from Chicago CL. Great shape with some original paint.

 

[Shiftless]

G.I.
That Ridge is nice. You got it for an excellent price.
But a Reed 204 for forty bucks???
YOU **** !

 

[Hiatt1991]

Talking about brass tags, my Rock Island had a nice one from Birtman Electric Company.

That is, until Mr. Larssen had to scratch his F’n name on it!

Thanks, buddy!

Like somebody might steal it

I have a Hay-Budden anvil from the late 1800s that some guy decided to etch his initials into. It weighs over 100lbs so I’m not sure who could potentially run off with it…

 

[va.grouseman]

Yep, Gary for $40.00, you stole that Simplex.---It's in really good condition.---VERY well done.

 

[Snip's]

I'm a little confused....
At some point in time, was the Charles portion of the name dropped from the Charles Parker vises?
And did the vises after the name drop just become Parker Vise Div.?

I'm thinking it's a Chas Parker 974 vise, but not sure...

I'll be looking over this vise tomorrow... Hoping for some clarification from the GJ brain pool...

 

[Outlawmws]

That's a "Union Parker" after the Union buyout.

Note the jaw interface is now far simpler to make and mate.

 

[Dave600]

I'm a little confused....
At some point in time, was the Charles portion of the name dropped from the Charles Parker vises?
And did the vises after the name drop just become Parker Vise Div.?

I'm thinking it's a Chas Parker 974 vise, but not sure...

I'll be looking over this vise tomorrow... Hoping for some clarification from the GJ brain pool...

From my notes. Charles Parker business started in 1832. In 1876 the business was incorporated under the name – Chas Parker Co, Meridan, CT. In 1948 Chas Parker bought Prentiss Vise Co. Union Mfg Co bought Chas Parker Co in 1957. So that is when Chas Parker Co changed to the Parker Vise Division of Union Mfg and production moved to New Britain, CT.

 

[Snip's]

That's a "Union Parker" after the Union buyout.

Note the jaw interface is now far simpler to make and mate.

Thanks for the clarification....

 

[Snip's]

From my notes. Charles Parker business started in 1832. In 1876 the business was incorporated under the name – Chas Parker Co, Meridan, CT. In 1948 Chas Parker bought Prentiss Vise Co. Union Mfg Co bought Chas Parker Co in 1957. So that is when Chas Parker Co changed to the Parker Vise Division of Union Mfg and production moved to New Britain, CT.

The history lesson is appreciated... Thanks!

 

[SkyPuncher]

The history lesson is appreciated... Thanks!

If you look at the spread sheet, you can see the differences between the 974, 974A and 974B. Yours would appear to be the 974B version.

Vises 2024

docs.google.com

 

[Snip's]

If you look at the spread sheet, you can see the differences between the 974, 974A and 974B. Yours would appear to be the 974B version.

Vises 2024

docs.google.com

Thanks..... Looks like the one...

 

[Hiatt1991]

Picked up a couple Wilton 101028 vises for $210 a piece. I may sell one and keep the other.

 

[Maxcustody]

This thread has many replies and a ton of information. Not sure where to begin?????

I received this vise from my FIL who built a welding table for me and attached this to the bench. He has used his vises outside over the years and I am sure this was one that sat outside as well. It seems to be in good condition and is painted with a rust inhibitor.

I plan on using it inside my shop on my workbench I am going to build. So my question is, leave it as is and use it or do a restoration job? What do I need to check parts wise? Are replacement parts available? I am unsure how old it is. I appreciate any help or information from all the knowledgeable folks here……

Thanks Scott

 

[Hiatt1991]

This thread has many replies and a ton of information. Not sure where to begin?????

I received this vise from my FIL who built a welding table for me and attached this to the bench. He has used his vises outside over the years and I am sure this was one that sat outside as well. It seems to be in good condition and is painted with a rust inhibitor.

I plan on using it inside my shop on my workbench I am going to build. So my question is, leave it as is and use it or do a restoration job? What do I need to check parts wise? Are replacement parts available? I am unsure how old it is. I appreciate any help or information from all the knowledgeable folks here……

Thanks Scott

Nice vise! I think it would be a great candidate for a restoration. Being the metal is in good shape, it should look really nice with a fresh coat of paint after a good wire wheeling.

As far as the date is concerned, you should be able to remove the dynamic jaw and there should be a date code on the bottom of the keyway. For example, I attached a picture of the date code on my Wilton vise. “671” which means it was made in the 6th month (June) of 1971.

I believe on the earlier vises from the 1940s, the date listed on the bottom was the date the warranty expired which would mean whatever date is stamped into the bottom would mean it was made exactly 5 years prior.

 

[Maxcustody]

Nice vise! I think it would be a great candidate for a restoration. Being the metal is in good shape, it should look really nice with a fresh coat of paint after a good wire wheeling.

As far as the date is concerned, you should be able to remove the dynamic jaw and there should be a date code on the bottom of the keyway. For example, I attached a picture of the date code on my Wilton vise. “671” which means it was made in the 6th month (June) of 1971.

I believe on the earlier vises from the 1940s, the date listed on the bottom was the date the warranty expired which would mean whatever date is stamped into the bottom would mean it was made exactly 5 years prior.

Thank you. I will look there for a date. Is a wire wheel the best way to remove all the old paint?

 

[Hiatt1991]

Thank you. I will look there for a date. Is a wire wheel the best way to remove all the old paint?

Depends on the person. I usually use a wire wheel for my vise respirations; however, some people use only degreaser, paint stripper and/or evaporust. Some folks are very **** about keeping the original casting finish during their restorations. The vise pictured is a Wilton C1 I restored several years ago. I just used a wire wheel, alcohol to prep the bare metal surface and then 2 coats of a good primer before I laid down 3-4 coats of paint.

 

[wmb67]

Thank you. I will look there for a date. Is a wire wheel the best way to remove all the old paint?

I’d immerse it in Simple Green/all-purpose cleaner for a few days to soften up the paint. Then either immerse it in Evapo rust or an electrolysis bath to remove the rust. Then a quick wire wheel before your paint of choice. Many folks prefer the look of bare metal with a coating of boiled linseed oil(myself included), but that’s up to you. Post up some pics when you’re finished.

 

[rckymtnab]

Acquired today, Craftsman 5166. Missing jaws but no cracks or repairs. Will be interesting to see how it cleans up! It is big!!

 

[Maxcustody]

I’d immerse it in Simple Green/all-purpose cleaner for a few days to soften up the paint. Then either immerse it in Evapo rust or an electrolysis bath to remove the rust. Then a quick wire wheel before your paint of choice. Many folks prefer the look of bare metal with a coating of boiled linseed oil(myself included), but that’s up to you. Post up some pics when you’re finished.

Thank you! I am thinking I like the look of the bare metal. I will pick up some stuff to start removing the old paint

 

[PierceA]

Maxcustody: I'll add to wmb67's suggestion. Use a solution of Simple Green, but if you have a hot plate, or a gas BBQ, put the pot with the vise in it on a heater, and bring the Simple Green solution to a simmer. I will boil over pretty easily, so just bring it up til it steams or has a few small bubbles. Then shut off the heat and let it sit for a few hours. Most if not all the paint will just fall off the vise..
I often let the slowly cooling solution sit overnight.

I don't like a power'd wire wheel because if it is used too agressively, it can remove details and lettering, and cover faint stamped in numbers. [Like on Reed Vises: they have a production date faintly stamped on the dynamic and static portions].
I do use a small pick and hand wire brush for deep corners and around the edges of raised lettering, where repaints always tend to accumulate into a thick layer of paint.

PierceA