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Fixing up an old Proto Rolling Chest

AndrewMarek

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Sep 20, 2022
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Bulverde, Texas
Hello all!

I’m a lurker that finally signed up for an account.

I inherited an old 1981 vintage 26” Proto box about 15 years ago from my father. He got it (if memory serves) for $35 in the mid 90s at a surplus sale at the chemical company he worked for. Somebody there had rattle canned it - painting over some stickers and while adding a few more. After my dad had a stroke it sat in his barn for at least 5 years before I got it when he passed and it was in my barn for the last 8 years or so after I moved. I finally got to a place where I wanted to start putting my tool sets in boxes and when I looked at this one again it looked pretty far gone/more trouble than the time I had so I bought a 44” US General. After I filled that one up my mind turned to this one again and decided to see if I could get it back in shape so I started lurking here a couple months ago.

I finally hauled it up the hill from the barn and started working on it last week. Things are going pretty well so far. I have removed all the drawers and hardware and am in the process of getting all the old paint and rust off of it. I only plan to rattle can it but hope to do a much better job the last guys did. 2 things I am running into that I was hoping for some help on are as follows:

A replacement lock. It never had a lock since we owned it (it was how my father purchased it). Looking at cross references etc and I don’t see anything listed for that vintage. The hole measures 3/4” X 5/8” and it is ~3/4” from the face of rolling chest to the stud. The stud looks to be 1/4" X 1/8”. The locks on Grainger and Zoro don’t give much in the way of size specs but it looks like a Westward 07-27B might work? But there are no size specs and no pictures of the back. Anyone have experience with these models and their locks?

Advice on cleaning/restoring the pulls and metallic badge. I don’t have a lot of experience outside of sanding and repainting stuff. The chrome and black paint are mostly intact but they are really dirty and some oxidation is present. What would be the safest way to clean these? Was going to start by degreasing but chrome is not something I deal with at all. I do have a vibratory tumbler and some “rust cutting resin” media that has worked ok cleaning up some old chrome plated tools but I would think it might take the paint off.

Thanks all for any and all help!
 

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Ohmthis

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Do you still have the old lock? A picture of how it grips the lid or other piece will help. I have an old box that my late stepdad had. It sat without use until I claimed it. I found a lock online that worked. Below is what mine looks like with a stand key. I always love seeing the tool box rebuilds!
 

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AndrewMarek

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Bulverde, Texas
Do you still have the old lock? A picture of how it grips the lid or other piece will help. I have an old box that my late stepdad had. It sat without use until I claimed it. I found a lock online that worked. Below is what mine looks like with a stand key. I always love seeing the tool box rebuilds!
Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately no. It never had a lock since we owned it. What it looks like is that the stud from the locking mechanism just fits in the back but I don’t see a place for the cam like on yours. Thinking of trying out these 2. The picture of the Kennedy lock seems like it might be a fit but a lot more expensive.
 

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Two Door

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Houston, TX - USA
Cam locks would be easy to find (McMaster Carr has a good selection), but yours isn't a cam.
I was going to suggest part number M11080a2 (seems to be universal, I see it on Waterloo/Sears) but it is no longer available.

But take a look at this thread - It seems to imply that locksmiths are familiar with these locks - Locksmiths solution

Also take a look at Craftsman/Waterloo part M12918A10SS, available through Bees Medical.
 
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AndrewMarek

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Sep 20, 2022
Messages
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Location
Bulverde, Texas
Cam locks would be easy to find (McMaster Carr has a good selection), but yours isn't a cam.
I was going to suggest part number M11080a2 (seems to be universal, I see it on Waterloo/Sears) but it is no longer available.

But take a look at this thread - It seems to imply that locksmiths are familiar with these locks - Locksmiths solution

Also take a look at Craftsman/Waterloo part M12918A10SS, available through Bees Medical.
YES. That one looks perfect. Too bad no longer offered ☹️. That Reddit thread has a lot of good suggestions I’ll follow up on. THANKS so much for posting.
 

Monza Harry

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Windsor ON
I've had a few boxes and there locks apart. A few have had a "u" shaped "cam" a square at the lock cylinder and an appropriate slot for the lock mechanism. Typically ~16 Guage(+?) material, something most on here could produce with minimal tooling, I expect your in that camp to. You could possibly have that adapter made for you if you can't find a source, and don't want to build something yourself. Please, Keep us posted. Harry
P.S. Edit Love those handle!
 
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Two Door

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812
Location
Houston, TX - USA
I've had a few boxes and there locks apart. A few have had a "u" shaped "cam" a square at the lock cylinder and an appropriate slot for the lock mechanism. Typically ~16 Guage(+?) material, something most on here could produce with minimal tooling, I expect your in that camp to. You could possibly have that adapter made for you if you can't find a source, and don't want to build something yourself. Please, Keep us posted. Harry
0:20-0:35 for example
 
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AndrewMarek

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Bulverde, Texas
Two Door & Monza Harry Thanks for this suggestion. I found a couple that had a big enough cam that I think could bend and just add the 1/8" by 1/4" hole and then it occurred to me that the Cam locks I had in my cart just looks like it moves 90 degrees and the locking mechanism on the chest looks like it needs to do 180 degrees. Will look around to see if I can find one that does 180.
 
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AndrewMarek

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Did a little more work last couple of days but life keeps interrupting. One thing I did realize and then got fixed is that the top must have been beat on a bit. The slides in the middle were about 5/16ths lower than the slides on the sides. The smaller drawers were actually rubbing on the full size drawer below but I didn't realize why. I found some old posts here to help. Basically pipe clamped the sides and then blocked the center and used my bottle jack to get it back in line. It is all square (well within about 1/32"). Also took a dead blow and a ball peen to get the (obvious once I really looked) dents out that were contributing. A lot of waviness that will be left but it will have to be good enough.
 

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AndrewMarek

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Well I’m mostly done. Still need 6 slide stops. I found some on eBay. Unfortunately I hit the buy button without checking out where they are coming from (China of course but they’ll be here next week). Not the perfection I see in all of y’all’s posts but I am no longer embarrassed to put it my garage. Thank you everyone for the help and advice!
 

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AndrewMarek

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Bulverde, Texas
Do you have a picture of it in your garage yet?
Not yet. Just sitting between some shelves and upright freezer. The hope is to build a metal building soon with 3 bays for cars and a 4th that will be enclosed as a shop for me. Yet another reason I find myself lurking around and doing research!
 
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