Pizza Question--
What do you do for dough when you are on the road? The recipes I've tried have all needed lots of time to rise and then be periodically kneaded. They don't seem well suited for your tours. I ask because I've been looking for a simplified way to get decent dough going.
While I’m not Gregor I do make a lot of pizza and have been working to refine my dough. Building the dough isn’t too labor intensive. You can shorten the initial fermentation and proof and then shape into balls. Once they are balled up you can throw them in the refrigerator for tw/o tomorrow three days to continue fermenting. Just give them one or two hours out of refrigeration before you go to shape them.
Depending on what foundation I am working from, I can have a lead time on dough from same day to four or five days in advance. It just depends on what I am starting with and what style crust I want.
On the moto trips, as Ben mentions, I would make the pizza in the hotel kitchen the day before so I had 24 hours which I sort of consider the minimum for the dough to develop. When we go camping I make the dough the night before and then place the dough (formed into balls) in the proofing containers I use then put those into a cooler with ice.
The thing to remember is that the dough will proof based on two things: how much yeast you use (if you're using yeast) and what the temperature is. You can control proofing based on those two things. If you want to travel and have a few days before you will be able to make the pizza's you can use less yeast which will slow the proof. Same with keeping it cool - that slows the proof too.
So if you want to extend the time use less yeast/starter and keep the dough refrigerator cold - 38-45F and you can stretch this out for days. It has the added benefit that the flavors will become more complex and interesting and textures will develop as well. Doughs that develop for 2-4 days tend to be more delicate, have a more crunchy crust and a better flavor.
If you want to learn more and take the dive down the pizza or bread rabbit hole I can't recommend the books by Ken Forkish enough:
Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast or
The Elements of Pizza. Both of these are fantastic books that teach you the basics and allow you to learn as you go and do a great job demystifying the baking process.
Since we're talking about baking this might be a good time to introduce a new tool!
This is the Famag IM-8S commercial spiral mixer. I've been doing a lot of experimenting on the mixer front in the last 6 months but this mixer was something I'd been considering for well over two years and thinking about for probably 5 years when I read that Ken Forkish considered it the best mixer you can buy.
It's price - $1800 - was the reason that I took so long to make the decision. I can spend $100 on kitchen stuff 18 times but $1800 on one specialty tool took a
long time to get to. I spent over a year looking for used ones, looking for sales and looking at options. The lead time on these was about 4 months too.
I ended up deciding to sell the Ankarsrum as it really just didn't do bread dough like I wanted - which is like a boss. I also broke down and bought a refurb commercial KitchenAid. Anyway, way back when I had a lot of money saved up, before I was going to buy the house and after I made pizza dough (by hand) for 25 people when I taught my first ADV class, I finally pulled the trigger.
The shot above is to give you an idea of the scale of the thing. It's 90lbs and absolutely dwarfs my espresso machine and dominated the coffee counter where I thought it might live. It's not something you pick up an move and I wasn't about to lift it in and out of a closet each time I wanted to mix dough. Also, it trips the GFCI breakers in the kitchen. It's a bit of a beast and that's how it ended up on it's own kitchen cart which has worked out perfectly.
But we'll first talk about why do you need a 90lbs spiral mixer.
You don't.
You absolutely don't knead (!) this mixer. Unless you're a commercial bakery making dough every day you
do not need this. Also, you don't
need a Bridgeport. Or 11 motorcycles. But you guys don't come here for common sense advice.
But if you make a lot of dough and in larger batches this takes a lot of the work out of the process and it does a pretty amazing job at developing gluten. It's called a spiral mixer because it has two actions; the bowl spins on the base and the dough hook also spins and you can see above that there's a "breaker bar" in the middle that serves as a way to force the dough to come around to the hook. Nothing comes close to what this thing does.
When I made pizza for 25 people it was a chore to mix that much dough. This thing doesn't break a sweat. It's overkill for what I do - just like the Bridgeport. And just like the Bridgeport I get so much satisfaction every time I see it and use it that it makes me really happy. Some day my children will resent that they inherit it and have no space for it but it will absolutely outlast me and probably them.
Because I've been very enamored by my new mixer I've been diving a bit deeper into baking this summer than usual. I wanted invite friends over for pizza and just keep exploring the baking thing. When J moved out I was able to take this pantry that was filled with crackers and ramen and turn it into my baking pantry. I invested in 22L. commercial Cambro bins (these things are the bomb) and bought about 100lbs of specialty flours from
Central Milling - bread flour, three types of pizza flour, all purpose flour and of course I've been exploring different tomatoes.
You can make great dough without a mixer - arguably it's not needed at all. It just takes more time and effort and dough really needs time. As the gluten develops it will reach a point where it needs to rest before it can be stretched or kneaded again. In fact, with great power comes great responsibility and two days ago I discovered that the Famag can actually mix dough to death and break all those great gluten connections. Yesterday I made the worst pizza ever and it was because I wanted to see what would happen if I mixed on high for a long time and the result was dough beaten to death - flat, no stretch and tasted like cardboard.
As Nadia is fond of saying when that happens, "Sometimes the pizza master has a pizza disaster!"
But with all these flours and the mixer I've been trying things I don't normally bake like these Bon Mi rolls for sandwiches. The kids have discovered the joys of making your own sandwiches and we've been going on picnics to get out of the house and having fresh rolls has been a fun part of this.
The commercial mixer means I am making much larger batches of dough and then letting them sit in the refrigerator for days, sometimes up to a week. If I use very little yeast or starter I can slow the proofing process down and gain a lot of flexibility. It allows me to keep dough around and then bake it when we want bread or pizza. There's been a lot of pizza for breakfast this summer.
The other thing we tried was croissants. Judiaann had been suggesting that I try them for a while as she had the confidence that my baking skills were up to the task. I wasn't so sure. But Lucas loves chocolate croissants and so we decided to follow the
NYTimes recipe of Claire Saffitz and it was actually not that hard and they turned out great.
Certainly better than any bakery we've found.
So, while I'm up to my eyeballs in Oprah product and retouching and shooting I'm still taking time to do some baking and that is a similar way for me to relax and continue to learn while I wait for the chance to get back into the shop.
Gregor