Steel top for workbench

[Maxcustody]

When we built my main workbench, we used a plain 10ga steel top, with a bent over front edge, and a bent up rear back edge. The front lip is 1", and the back edge is 4". We built it on a wood 4X4 and 2X6 heavy duty framework, carriage bolted together. The top is attached by pieces of angle iron welded to the bottom side of the top, and carriage bolted through the frame.

On the corner where the vise was going to be installed, we welded a section of 1/2" plate to the bottom side of the top, and cut the 2X6s for clearance. The vise bolts though the top and the reinforcement plate, and that works out well.

Nothing at all was done to the top surface; we just left the mill scale on it. I've had no issues with it rusting in normal use. When needed, I spray it with BraKleen and wipe it off. Over the years the mill scale has worn off in some areas, but most of it is still there.

The bench has served me well for 20+ years in my truck shop, and 11 more years in my retirement shop so far. Even though 10ga is kinda thin for a heavy duty bench top, if it has a good frame underneath it can work quite well. Many projects have been beaten back into shape on it, as well as many welding jobs done on it. It was not designed as a welding bench though. It was envisioned as a workbench you can weld on. It has a few lowish spots in the top after 32 years of hard use, but that is to be expected I guess.

These are pretty much the only photos I have of it, with Nothing on it. They are from back when I was setting up my retirement shop, and I had let it sit outside for a week or two. That is why the top has a rusty tinge to it. When it is kept in a shop, it never looks like that.

Thank you! This is great information and very similar to my setup. I will have it tomorrow or Friday. I will leave it bare steel! I am also adding my vise and will look at mounting it like you have

 

[CraigStu]

Any of you watch Ian build weird cars etc on the show Full Custom? He has at least one large steel top bench. Often he will tack weld pieces of something he is building right to the work bench top. Works out great for holding a portion of a build while he test fits the next piece. It also works out well as he steps back to look at the overall shape that will result when he welds in the next piece.

 

[Justind97]

If there’s still time, I added a 3” flat top on the backsplash to hold paint cans, brake clean and anything else that fits.

I don’t have any available pictures, but essentially an upside down L that goes towards the wall. Yes it pushes the bench out from the wall an extra few inches, but well worth it!

 

[Zeke]

Galvanized sheet metal works just as well and won't rust on the bottom.

 

[Maxcustody]

If there’s still time, I added a 3” flat top on the backsplash to hold paint cans, brake clean and anything else that fits.

I don’t have any available pictures, but essentially an upside down L that goes towards the wall. Yes it pushes the bench out from the wall an extra few inches, but well worth it!

Thanks, great idea. Sadly it is too late. Picking it up tomorrow hopefully

 

[yhprum]

On a different thread I was reading about using lanolin for rust prevention. We can get it in a spray can here. Spray and wipe and it’s good to go. There were some stories about sheep pens with shiny steel where they rub against the bare steel poles and everywhere else covered in heavy rust.

 

[Maxcustody]

On a different thread I was reading about using lanolin for rust prevention. We can get it in a spray can here. Spray and wipe and it’s good to go. There were some stories about sheep pens with shiny steel where they rub against the bare steel poles and everywhere else covered in heavy rust.

Thanks, good to know

 

[Lassen Forge]

If it were me my first choice would be to use Johnson''s Paste Wax on it to inhibit the rust... Used that for years on my "bare metal" machinery. If I felt the need to paint it, I;d go down to the hardware store, pick up some clear spray lacquer (check the woodworking or paint aisles for wood finishes) as it works almost as well, tho it is susceptible to scratching...

 

[Maxcustody]

If it were me my first choice would be to use Johnson''s Paste Wax on it to inhibit the rust... Used that for years on my "bare metal" machinery. If I felt the need to paint it, I;d go down to the hardware store, pick up some clear spray lacquer (check the woodworking or paint aisles for wood finishes) as it works almost as well, tho it is susceptible to scratching...

Thanks. Paste wax was mentioned as a good option for the metal. I am going to leave it bare metal.

 

[Busted_Knuckles]

On a different thread I was reading about using lanolin for rust prevention. We can get it in a spray can here. Spray and wipe and it’s good to go. There were some stories about sheep pens with shiny steel where they rub against the bare steel poles and everywhere else covered in heavy rust.

We have a product here called " Fluid Film " that at least at my local area is very popular, its basically lanolin in a spray can. Not sure what else is in it. I have some in the shop, dont use it much, likely for no other reason WD40 is a fraction of the cost, even though I get the Fluid Film heavily discounted ( $50 for a 5 gallon pail/$10 for a gallon can ).

Occasionally I will put it on a bare or black oxide tool, that I dont plan to touch for a year or more, as WD40, seems to last that long, in high humidity on heavy/dense tools.

 

[Maxcustody]

We have a product here called " Fluid Film " that at least at my local area is very popular, its basically lanolin in a spray can. Not sure what else is in it. I have some in the shop, dont use it much, likely for no other reason WD40 is a fraction of the cost, even though I get the Fluid Film heavily discounted ( $50 for a 5 gallon pail/$10 for a gallon can ).

Occasionally I will put it on a bare or black oxide tool, that I dont plan to touch for a year or more, as WD40, seems to last that long, in high humidity on heavy/dense tools.

I am aware of fluid film, although I have not used it. From what I have seen looks like it would be messy. Not sure I would want it on a workbench top I want to use............................

 

[mogandave]

Galvanized sheet metal works just as well and won't rust on the bottom.

Tough to get GA over 10ga though.

 

[mogandave]

I am aware of fluid film, although I have not used it. From what I have seen looks like it would be messy. Not sure I would want it on a workbench top I want to use............................

As long as you don't scrape or grind the mill-scale off it should not rust, but the scale will drop off of the brakes and welds

Once finished I would just give it a wipe with little oil and be done with it. You might want to primer the bottom.

 

[Maxcustody]

As long as you don't scrape or grind the mill-scale off it should not rust, but the scale will drop off of the brakes and welds

Once finished I would just give it a wipe with little oil and be done with it. You might want to primer the bottom.

Thanks!

 

[mogandave]

Thanks!

Hey, where are you in WV? We used to have a plant in Fairmont, great people and beautiful country.

 

[Maxcustody]

Hey, where are you in WV? We used to have a plant in Fairmont, great people and beautiful country.

Eastern Pan Handle................it is beautiful.

 

[jpaw]

ATF works well and is full of detergents to clean it.
As a transmission builder I have found on new bench tops that after about a year of use they don't rust. That is unless you leave something water based sitting on it for a long time.
I can brake clean them and they are fine as long as there is no standing moisture.

 

[Maxcustody]

ATF works well and is full of detergents to clean it.
As a transmission builder I have found on new bench tops that after about a year of use they don't rust. That is unless you leave something water based sitting on it for a long time.
I can brake clean them and they are fine as long as there is no standing moisture.

Thank you I was thinking of using acetone as the first step cleaning the metal after I get it, thoughts?

 

[mogandave]

Unless you're going to paint it, it may not need cleaning, wait and see. I don't think acetone is great for grease and oil though.

 

[dchawk81]

I originally made it with welding in mind but my work bench is unpainted steel. In no way would it be considered fancy but it works for me. I put casters on the bottom so I could move it around with the welder.

 

[Maxcustody]

Unless you're going to paint it, it may not need cleaning, wait and see. I don't think acetone is great for grease and oil though.

I was just thinking about initial wipe down after it is coming from the metal fabricator.

 

[Maxcustody]

I originally made it with welding in mind but my work bench is unpainted steel. In no way would it be considered fancy but it works for me. I put casters on the bottom so I could move it around with the welder.

Looks Great

 

[jpaw]

Thank you I was thinking of using acetone as the first step cleaning the metal after I get it, thoughts?

That will work well but I wouldn't clean it until I use it unless it is nasty.

 

[dchawk81]

Looks Great

Thanks. It's nowhere near big enough anymore but it matches my garage that way.

 

[cstmg8]

You need to make friends with a local elevator guy!
Still in progress.

 

[Maxcustody]

You need to make friends with a local elevator guy!
Still in progress.

Awesome In my small town the only elevator is at the courthouse

 

[dchawk81]

Awesome In my small town the only elevator is at the courthouse

Start robbing banks?

 

[Maxcustody]

That will work well but I wouldn't clean it until I use it unless it is nasty.

Thanks.

 

[Maxcustody]

Start robbing banks?

After 27 years in law enforcement I have dealt with many bank robbers and much prefer this side of the fence

 

[4 FN 27]

Built these 2, Bench and Table 25 years ago.

The Table in the foreground is 5/8 HRP&O Blanchard Ground and the Bench in the back is 1/4 HRP&O.

The Table gets hit with W40 before and after use. Just spray it on and wipe it off.

The Bench gets wiped down completely about every 3 months with WD40 and then a light coating of any kind of oil laying around. It sees more use daily.

 

[Maxcustody]

Built these 2, Bench and Table 25 years ago.

The Table in the foreground is 5/8 HRP&O Blanchard Ground and the Bench in the back is 1/4 HRP&O.

The Table gets hit with W40 before and after use. Just spray it on and wipe it off.

The Bench gets wiped down completely about every 3 months with WD40 and then a light coating of any kind of oil laying around. It sees more use daily.

WOW those are great!

 

[dchawk81]

I guess mine is technically a table. Not sure why I always call it a bench.

 

[Maxcustody]

I guess mine is technically a table. Not sure why I always call it a bench.

I have a smaller welding table that sits outside my shop. My FIL built it for me.

 

[pnut]

I just got back from local metal guy and he suggested I go with a piece of steel for my workbench top and it is also considerably cheaper than aluminum. I am having him do a 28"x96". He is going to do a bend 2" for the face of the workbench as well as a 2" bend up the back so nothing rolls off. It will be 1/8" steel. At first I thought about painting it with an etched primer like rustoleum, however the more I thought about it maybe no paint................

Therefore that is the question. Will I have any issues leaving it bare metal? This will always be in the shop and not outside. I thought it may be cool to have a natural patina over the years. Any problems doing this?

Thanks

In my old garage I had a well made home made workbench with a 3/16 steel top. It was bare steel. I attached it using countersunk screws to have a flush surface finish. 2.5 feet x about 8 feet

It was insanely heavy, but made a good work surface. I used it for mechanic type work in my garage for years.

I wouldn't do it now, simply because I am putting in floating cabinets and don't want the weight, and also I like the formica countertop (black) which is relatively cheap and durable enough.

The steel also always was cold, and hard to keep clean. Seems even after cleaning it with windex, it would still make my hands or anything which touched it, dirty.

 

[andyvh1959]

I have a 10ga bare steel worktop covering my lumber top workbench built from Menard's workbench frames. It's been bare since I got it from a customer's fab shop back in 2005. Can't say I've noticed any rust, but I have rubbed it down a few times with 3M scuff pads and WD40.

 

[brownbagg]

Ever think about a used stainless commercial food prep top? 24 or 30" deep with a backsplash. I kick myself for not buying an 8' one at the ReStore a few years back. Probably not as durable as steel but better than aluminum. I have a smaller 4' roll around in the garage and it has held up pretty well.

that what we have at the employment, we beat the chit out of them daily and they are twenty years old in great shape

 

[brownbagg]

my shop, home shop. I got 3/4 plate on my workbench, its 3ft by 6 ft

 

[calandrod]

I believe that @ZRX61 one time mentioned that Gibbs oil is the best bare metal protector. I plan on trying it myself but haven’t ordered the cans yet.

 

[isb cornbinder]

I just got back from local metal guy and he suggested I go with a piece of steel for my workbench top and it is also considerably cheaper than aluminum. I am having him do a 28"x96". He is going to do a bend 2" for the face of the workbench as well as a 2" bend up the back so nothing rolls off. It will be 1/8" steel. At first I thought about painting it with an etched primer like rustoleum, however the more I thought about it maybe no paint................

Therefore that is the question. Will I have any issues leaving it bare metal? This will always be in the shop and not outside. I thought it may be cool to have a natural patina over the years. Any problems doing this?

Thanks

I made a hydraulic lift/workbench out of diamond plate. I have a piece of .125" cold-rolled steel to place on the lift table. You can see the cold-rolled piece in the first picture. The second picture is of the lift table without the cover.
I have been using the piece of .125" for 20 years and it has not rusted yet.

 

[cannuck]

My short side work benches are 2x6 overlaid with 1/8 sheet. Layout 4x8 and welding 3x6 are all bare steel. No rust for the first 35 years but then I had a vapour barrier failure and roof leak. THAT rusted the one area under the drips, but just a quick scuff with scotchbrite and all is good. No special treatment to prevent corossion, but they are all probably a bit oily.